Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2012 - Rough Idle Upon Start Up - Injector Is Cutting In And Out Or Missing
May 7, 2012
2012 F-150 5.0 Rough Idle Upon Start up - YouTube
Whenever I first start my 2012 F-150 with the 5.0, it idles rough and if I step on the gas it acts like either an injector is cutting in and out or it's missing. It doesn't really seem like a miss though, more like an injector/fuel issue. What it could be. If I let it sit and idle it won't go away unless I step on the gas and get it > 2500rpm or so.
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The truck always ran perfect till two days ago. went to start it in the middle of the day , it would barely start, when it did it was missing bad. then seemed to clear up a little after about 30 seconds but still missing. they thought they got some bad fuel. so they dropped the tank cleaned it all out and got new fuel, no change.
Him and a so called mechanic "kid from fire stone" played around switching coil packs around from the injectors with no change. He tells me that the two front cylinders , one on each side are not firing. that those two spark plugs are coming out fuel soaked after running the truck. He thinks it dropped a lifter or push rod popped out of place.
I took my A/E over and came up with codes p0106 - map sensor, and p0135 - 02 sensor. i cleared them and started the truck, shut it back off ran codes again. He also said they pulled the 02 sensor and it still ran the same.
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I have a ecoboost with 80k on it. All of a sudden it started cutting out real bad while accelerating. If I punch the throttle it feels like the motor is trying to die. Could this be my fuel pump going out?
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2011 XLT 5.0 Coyote. Truck has a performance problem - it's missing almost unnoticeable at idle, but it's obvious (if you care to notice) when you hold the throttle barely open. Idle seems smooth, but if I hold it at about 1500 rpms, it most clearly and definitely is missing.
However, since there are "no codes" and since mode shows "no misfires". This really manifests itself when I'm towing a 6k pound trailer and the truck can't pull it up a 2% grade unless I drop it into 3rd gear. Of course, if I drive it like a race car it's a beast. But I can't leave rubber at every red light, especially when towing.
Fuel trims look fine (ST bounces between -4 to +4, LT sits right at +0.5). Cleaned the TB. Cleaned the MAF. Brand new Motorcraft plugs gapped at .045. CHT sensors read 205 on one bank and 198 on the other. Coolant sensor seems find. Haven't done a voltage test, but TPS data in the OBD seems smooth.
How to test the coil packs (neither does Ford). They want me to replace all 8, but I'm not doing that unless I can see real evidence a coil pack is bad.
I'm no novice however I'm losing my mind that "everything is normal" yet the truck so clearly has a problem. This has been going on for months and I'm at my wits end.
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My 2011 F150 5.0 was bought used a year ago, and ran like new. A few months ago, several things started acting up.
* clicking at idle. Just a tick-tick-tick-tick kinda like a diesel. I swear it just started, but the dealer tells me it's "normal".
* Oil - I'm "losing" about a half quart a month. No leaks. 1500 miles after a change, it's dingy. (not dirty just brown) Dealer tells me it's "normal" that these trucks consume a little oil and that it will get dirty.
All that I could ignore but this is what bothers me:
The truck seems to struggle, mildly, to maintain speed on hills. It'll drop to 1k rpms before downshifting. Just a pig. Of course if I stomp it to the floor I get a good response, but it is just sluggish and wimpy when driving "normally". Also, when maintaining speed, there's a barely noticeable missing/slipping happening. When I pull a couple thousand pounds it really struggles.
This is happening. Three dealers tell me there's nothing wrong with the truck. After pressing the first dealer they admitted they never drove the truck. The second dealer called me to pick it up because nothing was wrong and also admitted to not having driven it. After I demanded they drive it, they called back still saying nothing is wrong. "The computer would show it if there was a problem." The third dealer has it now, drove it this morning, guess what? "There's nothing wrong, maybe you can come and show us."
I cannot believe the industry has lost the ability to diagnose vehicles beyond what a computer tells them. Do techs not check compression or ignition or fuel pressure any more? Seems to me a valve issue for example could be the cause of all my symptoms, or fuel delivery, or weak spark, none of which would show up on the freaking computer.
Coyote 5.0 engine and the 6R80 trans.
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I have a 2012 4x4 EB CC. In 6th gear, on the highway between 1200-1700 RPM's, during a slow acceleration, it feels like it is missing or shuddering. It is most pronounced going up a hill, and/or towing something. As soon as you get above about 1700, it goes away. Rig needs to be fully warmed up (not just the engine, but tranny/drivetrain). Needless to say, this is generally from about 52-65 mph, which is most highway (not freeway) driving I do. At times it's so bad my wife says it's time to get a Chebby.
Had it in about a year ago, couldn't duplicate it. Took it in this last week. Did the TSB on the plugs, and was told that would fix it. It didn't. Took it back in; they couldn't duplicate the issue. Rotated the tires hoping that might do something. Took the head service guy for a ride, and made it happen; it was very obvious then. It seems like the tachometer should bounce or shudder a bit when it's doing it, but nothing. It's going back in on Monday to see what they can do.
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I have recently purchased a 2011 F150 Ext cab with 3.5L ecoboost with 69k miles. I have no experience with these engines prior to now. I've always wanted a full size truck and after driving my 98 S10 for 17 years, I decided it was time for a new truck. I hope I made the right choice in going for the 3.5 instead of 5.0.
On to my question. I've noticed that the truck hesitates from a dead stop or anytime the RPM's are under 1k. It feels like its missing or running lean/rich during the spin up of RPM's. When I drive it hard, it does seem to subside for a little, and I've heard people say that they run better when run hard. I can attest to that, but is this hesitation normal for an almost 70k mile engine? I am getting 15ish MPG on almost all city driving since I have bought it, but I do expect that to change (job hunting and current commute is less than 2 miles each way).
The only time I get to open it up is when I go run errands out of the immediate local area or visiting friends and family. On one of those trips, before I noticed the hesitation, I attempted to accelerate from 60 to pass on the expressway and it bucked and resisted like a horse. It finally took off up to 80 and completed that journey with no issue but the check engine light came on for a bit. The check engine light went off when I shut it down and hasn't come back on since.
New ride: 2011 3.5L Ecoboost....
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1991 Buick Regal, 3800 V6
Having a rough idle on a cold start. After some research and closer inspection of the vehicle, I'm quite certain I have at least one leaking injector that is flooding a cylinder and causing the car to misfire on a cold start. I'm also not at the gas mileage I should be at.
So I'm wondering, is fuel injector replacement as straightforward of a job as it looks? Any major issues I could run into in doing a replacement?
I'm planning on replacing all six injectors (I can get them for $50 each buying online with a discount code), but given that the vehicle is so old am I better off just replacing the faulty ones? I'm assuming pulling the spark plugs and seeing which cylinder is wet will tell me which I need to replace.
And one more question: Is there a way to depressurize the fuel system when I park the car for the night, thus preventing fuel (or most of it) from leaking into the engine until I get this fixed? I've read that just unscrewing the gas cap can depressurize the system.
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2010 F150 4.6L 2V, 50k miles. Have recently developed an issue with an extremely rough idle with the AC on and trans in Drive. If in park, the idle is high enough that it is much less noticeable. I have cleaned my throttle body, and MAF sensor ? After this , I disconnected battery for about 30mins and let the computer reset. After a long drive today, it is still happening. This engine has the servo controlled throttle body, and therefore no IAC valve that I can identify. I would assume that the idle increase necessary for the AC to be on would come from the servo controlled throttle body itself with no need for an external IAC. The idle in Drive with the AC on will drop to 500 RPM or less and it is very rough. Is there a procedure for a recalibration of the servo throttle body that I could try ?
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I've had this 2012 for several months now but have never really romped on the throttle until yesterday's road trip (not a lead foot driver).
I was driving on the highway at about 55 when I needed to pass so I floored the throttle and - the truck bucked like a wild horse and the power dropped to a low acceleration. Once I backed off the throttle to about half-way the engine took off like "normal".
These symptoms were repeatable throughout my entire 500 mile trip. Is this a known issue with the EB?
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I have a 2013 with the 3.7 in it with 24,000 miles on it. I bought the truck used with 8,000 on it was a pre-Owned certified and it already had a k&n air intake which I know it's not needed and I would much rather have the factory intake instead.. 7 months ago I took it to the dealer because I noticed at stop lights it idled rough sometimes almost feeling like it was going to stall out so I took it in and they said that the motor was getting to much air and causing it to run like it was and they said the cooler weather was making it worse and said it should get better when it warms up and they said it wouldn't hurt anything... Well I live in Florida and it's been in the 90s and it still idles like crap you can feel the vibration through the truck...
And it's so aggravating and annoying and I wish I had a stock intake that I could install on the truck to see if it fixes the problem but I don't and I've researched the problem and have seen people with the same issues without the k&n air intake and I've also been told that the stock air intake gives the motor just as much air as the k&n so with that being said did the dealer take the easy way out and blame the intake or should they be responsible for installing the factory intake back on since they made it a certified pre-owned with the k&n on the truck? It's been frustrating because I don't know a whole lot about gas motors.. And I'd like to get the problem fixed while I still have warranty ..
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My truck has a similar rough idle and I decided to investigate. What my plug gap was supposed to be as I didn't have access to my owners manual at the time. The specs I was given (.041-.047) is what I followed and recapped my plugs .045. The idle improved a great deal.
Now I was wondering and finally got around to checking my owners manual after I read somewhere that the gap for the 5.0 changed between 12 and 13 model years. What I found in my owners manual is that the gap I'm supposed to have is from .049-.053. My plugs were out anyway at .057. I will leave them be at .045 but am wondering why the change from .041-.047 on the 2011 model years to .049-.053 on the 2012+ model years? I assume the engine hasn't changed, so am curious of the thought process.
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2013 3.5 Ecoboost. Starting the truck first thing in the morning, it idles very rough for about 30 seconds and then smoothes out. If I drop it into gear it stays rough as I back out of the driveway. Once underway it runs fine and otherwise runs/idles very smooth for the rest of the day. Doesn't appear to have any other symptoms of spark plugs/boots misfire so I'm thinking it might be something else?
On my old 02 F150 with the 5.4 this usually happened when the Idle air control (IAC) would get plugged up with carbon. I'd clean it and the idle would smooth out. This truck doesn't appear to have one.
Spark plugs are on my list for the near future. 47k on the truck so they are almost geting due. Trying to get my superduty sold before I spend a lot of time on this truck.
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Ok so I have the 2009 f150 4.6l 2wd. Have random misfire codes. Horrid idle. I replaced all of the spark plugs, coil packs, and even the injectors on 1/3/4. Still codes nothing is better. I'm thinking maybe an intake manifold leak,? I see no real signs but I do hear that little pop pop pop. Now I have a gasket kit for it but I see you can order complete manifold kits with thermostat and gaskets on amazon for like 60 bucks more. The issue is I see none that fit my truck. Is it the same as the mustang? Hate to blow more cash as its adding up.
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I have a 2011 XLT 5.0 V8 with 133,260 miles. I have extended warranty for the next 12,000 miles...which is great because I drive about 400 miles a month... Anyhow it runs great but for one small issue (hopefully) that has been intermittent.
She likes to idle slightly rough in drive at a stop or very low speed, and in reverse at slow speed. If I don't maintain the RPM it will stall and the low oil pressure light will come on, which I imagine comes on because of the sudden stall.
I first noticed this while backing into my garage in the driveway, It would fluctuate in RPMs and if I didn't maintain the gas it would shut off. I took it to the dealer and all they were able to tell me was the Tranny fluid was low and it would cause it to shut off at incline because a sensor isn't detecting fluid in the tranny. I thought this was weird but being as I have never owned an F150, I didn't know better.
It was fine for a little over a month and it started doing it again at stop lights and backing into my driveway. It has become frequent but there is no issue driving at speed and on the freeway. There is no stuttering or shaking and if it weren't for the fluctuating RPM at a stop and the stalling, it would be hard to tell if there was an issue.
All I can note is that there is a clicking sound under the hood, if I remember correctly the last time this happened I was at a 1/4 tank of fuel like I am now, I also feel like it may be a throttle body issue, or some sort of air sensor, I plan on taking it to the dealer but I figure I would get a more informed answer on the forums.
I also hear this is a common issue with the 5.0s... I purchased the truck in December and since then I have only put 250 miles on it.
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2010 F150 ... So I have the tick noise at rpm's 800-1000 at drive through, stops, etc. So I did research on it a few months ago and saw that it might be VCT's but should be able to drive. so I drove it waiting to save money and have it go to a shop. well this past weekend while coming home from work my oil light came on the pressure dropped to zero, I was on the highway so I drove about another mile to get off highway and once I got off my truck died. I had it towed to my house and I thought I blew my motor. So I started doing research here and found that the VCT's AND cam Phaser could be bad. so I replaced my VCT on driver side put it all back together it started and loud knock was gone. then after 5 mins it was back very loud knock!
So I shut it down and took apart the passenger side once I got the valve cover off I found the problem.... The bolt that holds the cam phaser in place snapped off and was riding along the camshaft. So I took that out and extracted remaining part of bolt. inspected my camshaft and it was really messed up. so I bought new Phaser and Camshaft. the camshaft just came in today and I am trying to put it back in. but the hole for the pin in the phaser doesn't line up and I cant spin the shaft to make it line up. should I spin the cam phaser? I marked the chain and the phaser is where it should be on chain, but with that bolt snapping off could that have thrown the timing off so my mark is no good? when I lay the camshaft in place it sits perfect and if I just move the phase over 2-3 links it will all fit together. Should I do that?
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So whats everyones favorite? Reason? Its been a while since I had to buy any for a gas engine.
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my excursion just started hard and had rough idle one morning then code P0270 - injector, FICM or wires between are the logical choices I think.
started with wires - all connections good at FICM and injectors (applied dielectric silicone) - checked all 4 wires from injector connector pins for resistance with omh meter from X-1 connector. no change
so next is FICM. couple years back sent to ed for repair. if I remember right it was power supply side only so the "brain" side might have gone? good news is could I get a loaner FICM off fellow 6.0 and installed (can't confirm condition of loaner - trucks been parked a while) same code same cylinder - no change.
I read somewhere possibly swapping two injectors (say 2 and 4?) and see if the code follows the injector or stays with the cylinder, further test for a bad FICM
Is that necessary? I would hate buy and replace the #4 injector just to put it back together to find no change then forking over 6 7 hundred more on a new FICM.
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I've only had my '13 STX with the 5.0 for a little over a month now, but it seems like the past few days, something's caught my attention. As soon as I start my truck when cold, the idling engine seems to have more vibration than normal, which is to say I can notice a distinct vibration in the cab. It only does this for about 10-15 seconds, and then the vibration goes away when it idles down. The truck still runs and drives fine, and I only notice this when I start the truck without it already being warmed up. I don't recall noticing this the first few weeks I owned the truck, but I also wonder if I'm over-analyzing matters as well.
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2010 F150 XLT ... Front driver side door speaker goes from working fine, to crackling, to cutting out. It`s been doing this since the day I bought it. I've had a local audio company tell me they have seen a few new Ford with that problem.
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I bought this truck a few months ago. After trying everything under the sun to try and rectify a poor running problem, it was realized that injectors needed replacing. Ended up putting in 160cc/30% unlimited diesel performance injectors. The truck has a rough idle and surging problem. After trying to install the chip from gearhead, the truck didn't run any different, ultimately (according to the shop doing the install) smoking the ECU. New stock ECU, same problem. Goes good under throttle, just idle is bad. I get weird looks at the gas station. People think it has a big cam.
7.3 Rough Idle - YouTube...
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