Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2012 - Rear Bumper Is Rusting
Apr 17, 2014
My rear bumper is rusting pretty bad. I have polished several times, and it comes back worse every time. Its less than 2 years old and I have mud flaps. I brought it to the dealer today, and the writer was trying to pass it off as normal.
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We just sold our 04 Supercrew that was rusting out from underneath itself. I was unsure of what to get next until I drove this 2012 F140 XLT supercrew with the ecoboost. It is in fantastic shape and drive great. It does have 90k on its odometer and I wasn't sure if that should be of any real concern.
It was a one owner trade in and you would never tell the mileage by looking at it. I averaged 5k miles per year for the 5 years I owned my 04 so I don't drive real far. I also tow a 20' ultra lite camper which may get upgraded to a 24' ultra lite in a few years.
I just didn't know if I should be concerned about the high mileage with my driving habits and not driving very much. Do these motors have any maintenance issues? Everything I've read seems to be good....
This story really piqued my interest : [URL] ......
2012 F150 XLT Ecoboost with 90k.....
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My wife backed the truck into a pole and bent the driver's side bumper and one of the ears on the trailer hitch (the part that bolts to the frame). I bought all the parts that need to be replaced (the left bumper end, the hitch itself, and the plastic bumper cover), gut am hesitant to try to change it all myself. How hard is it to change out all these parts? Is there a write-up any where out there for this?
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I recently purchased a Rear Bumper Protector for 2010-2014 Toyota Prius for my 2014 PIP. I thought I had it in the correct position when I removed the adhesive strips to install it but realized the next day that the curvature is not lined up properly causing a gap in between the bumper and the protector. My stomach sank when I realized this error.
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My 2010 F150 super crew cab is rusting from the inside out on both cab corners. I purchased my truck about 3 years ago with 75,000 miles on it. After about 3 months I noticed the 3rd brake light was leaking. I went to the dealer but they wouldn't warranty it due to the mileage. They did acknowledge that there was a problem with the 3rd brake lamp leaking and was willing to sell me new parts. So I repaired that ASAP. I don't how long is was leaking prior to that. Fast forward a couple years later the corners are starting to bubble. I am assuming this what caused the cab corners to rust.
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I was checking the oil in my truck yesterday. I noticed the passenger side exhaust manifold was flaking rust. I mean flaking bad, big chunks coming off. Even the heat shield was rusted bad enough that it is barely holding on. Looks like in a couple years will need replaced. I have never seen this on my other Fords.
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While looking in the engine compartment, I noticed that the steering linkage behind the engine where it comes out of the firewall and connects to the steering box is rusting... Bad. The car is only a year old, but the linkage looks like it's 10 years old. Should I be concerned?
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My Ultra white IS350 is 15 months old, and when I took out the screws to my license plate today, I noticed a little bit of rust on the mounts (where the screws would go into).
I believe this is a pretty common issue for all cars - essentially, the mount was sprayed with body paint, but the paint would be stripped when you put a screw in. It's just a matter of time before that happens.
I am just concerned it would rust through my trunk if I continue to leave it.
FYI: I already use stainless steel screws
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I have a 2012 f150 supercrew ecoboost with 6,000 miles on it. I just took it into the dealer for a clinking noise from the rear end. It happens when shifting between D and R and during dowshifting at low speeds. They said that ford is aware of this noise but does not have a fix yet.
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Picked up my new ride yesterday, 2012 F-150 STX tuxedo black, supercab
4x4, 3.55 e-locker, 5.0l. It is one nice ride but it already has a blown speaker rear drivers side which is frustrating, I see this is a common issue with these trucks. Just hope it is not a recurring thing. But still a great truck.
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So here it is, who out there with a 2012 SCREW can tell me how their rear parking brake cable is routed around the axle? The reason I ask is mine is routed under the axle and that just seems like a really screwy design. I would think any time the rear suspension was unloaded it could have the potential to engage the parking brake by the axle pushing down on the cable. My father has a 2014 and his isn't routed that way. I've also looked at a lot of pictures on the internet and haven't found any photos that show the cable routed under either. Is something off on mine, or is mine routed correctly and I just have not found any pictures that show it routed the same as mine?
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I have just started to have this problem or what I think is a problem. When the electronic rear axle is locked and in icy conditions I am getting clunking sounds out of the rear end sometimes. Its hard to explain but it sounds like it is slipping in and out of engagement. Sometimes it works fine or what I think is fine and locks both wheels together and I get no sound at all. I switched off the traction control thinking that the sounds I was hearing were a result if it kicking in but this didn't change the sounds the rear diff is making.
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I bought a 2011 F-150 a year ago. Today was I driving my truck like usual and for some odd reason, it revved up to 3500 and then my truck shooked like I hit a big pump. I'm debating whether I have a faulty transmission or something. I barely touched the foot pedal. I wasn't evening barely putting any pressure on the accelerator and for some odd reason, it revved up that high and something shook my truck. I know a little bit about vehicles, my transmissions are not my thing. I'm gonna' take it in Monday morning to work.
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My rig is a 2013 5.0 extended cab. Seems to me that there is some "wasted space" at the front end between the bumper/grille and the radiator. I'm thinking that some sheet metal/expanded metal work or maybe some fiberglass formed to fit that the space could make a neat storage area for stuff like jumper cables, an emergency road side kit and other stuff.
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Looking for info on removing the rear bumper cover of a 2012 Passat?
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How to remove the chrome trim around the fog lights and the chrome bars beside them I have a 2014 SE
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I have a 2012 Camry and was wondering how to remove the rear bumper cover? Someone backed into me so I have a shallow dent I want to pop out of the plastic.
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Do you need to take off the bumper?
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I need to remove the bumper to replace the reflectors for some lead breaking lights, so I'll also need to find the rear break lights cables to jump this leds.
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I have a 2013 Accent GLS and I have to replace the rear bumper cover. Any detailed instructions on how to do this?
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I have a '12 Elantra Limited and I'm planning to smoke the rear bumper reflectors. How to remove them?
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