Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2012 - Rear Parking Brake Cable Routing
Mar 1, 2017
So here it is, who out there with a 2012 SCREW can tell me how their rear parking brake cable is routed around the axle? The reason I ask is mine is routed under the axle and that just seems like a really screwy design. I would think any time the rear suspension was unloaded it could have the potential to engage the parking brake by the axle pushing down on the cable. My father has a 2014 and his isn't routed that way. I've also looked at a lot of pictures on the internet and haven't found any photos that show the cable routed under either. Is something off on mine, or is mine routed correctly and I just have not found any pictures that show it routed the same as mine?
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I'm re-doing the parking brake as part of a rear brake job on my 2009 F250. I need to disconnect the intermediate brake cable at the equalizer, but am having trouble. I've got slack in the cable, but can't push hard enough to get the swaged cable end to move within the connector that's between the equalizer cable and the intermediate cable.
Is there a special tool or some trick to this? If push comes to shove, I can cut the connector (assuming I can get a replacement), but would rather not.
Also, any particular trick to disconnecting the cable to the parking brake lever at the wheel? With that huge spring between the cable bracket and the end of the lever, I haven't been able to move the cable end enough to disconnect it from the lever. Since I don't have the intermediate cable disconnected, could that have something to do with it?
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I noticed the rear parking cable's one end hanging. Not sure how to connect it. Appears a part is missing.
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My truck is a 2012 145'' scab Ecoboost. It doesn't have a level or any other suspension mods. I noticed a knocking sound while parallel parking this morning. It occurs while steering quickly turning the wheel 1/4-1/2 a rotation in forward and reverse . It is easily felt through the wheel and it makes a quiet sound. I have a crummy video I will attach below. You can hear the sound when the camera is in the cab. It seems like either balljoints or tie rod ends maybe?. I have an oil change in 1000 miles at my dealer so the timing is pretty good to bring it in.
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When I set the parking brake last night, there was a loud pop and the pedal suddenly went soft to the floor and would not spring back when I pulled the release. The pedal doesn't spring back up when I pull the release lever, but I was able to pull it back up by hand to get the dash light to go out. That works, but without the tension from the brake cable the pedal works back down and the dash light comes on.
When I got out of the driver's seat, there was a cable laying on the ground right under the front door. The cable snapped right in front of a metal cable joiner. What is involved in fixing this?
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I bought 2000 Ranger with rear half of the frame cut and welded.
The mechanics who did this did terrible job of putting things where they belong. I rerouted wiring harness and rebuilt EVAP lines, but cannot figure out what is the correct route for parking brake cable.
Currently some part of the parking brake cable is sitting on the leaf spring. It may also be missing some mounting brackets or clips. Looking for a picture or diagram showing parking brake cable routing?
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I'm having a hard time trying to figure out to detach the cable from the pedal assembly. The place where the cable attaches is so hidden by various plates, pawls and springs that there is no access. Also the whole assembly is put together with rivets so there's no easy way of taking it apart. Is there some trick to getting the cable out?
Also, I need to find out exactly where the cable goes through the floor pan. I'm in the process of fixing the rust on this. My 2000 XLT 4x4 and the floor pan and rockers were so rusted that there was no evidence of where the cable went through the floor pan! I assume it's supposed to go through the channel right next to the inner rocker but where exactly? A simple measurement from the back edge of the A-pillar is all I need.
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How to replace the parking brake cable from the pedal down to the connector on the frame? We got a 2000 F350 in the shop with a bad cable, and i never did one. And I don't really want to mess this thing up trying to figure out how to change it.
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What is the procedure to remove the parking brake cable from the axle? It looks like the cable has a locking device like the fuel lines but heavier. How do you get that thing out of there without destroying it?
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I'm working on an '05 F350 King Ranch dually, and I'm pretty sure the pb cable is stretched. I recently replaced the shoes in the pb assembly and adjusted the tension while I was in there, but it still barely holds. My next culprit sounds like a stretched cable, and I have a complete set for a new one, but I'm having a hell of a time getting the old one out. The link that holds the front and intermediate cables together won't pry open with any tool I have, and I've broken two drill bits trying to drill out the nub holding the front cable in.
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My left parking brake cable seems to stick. The parking brake shoes and springs appear to be fine. I have ordered a new left parking brake cable and need to know how to remove the old cable and feed the new cable to the hand brake lever. Looking for the brake cable removal procedure and diagrams?
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I have a 2012 f150 supercrew ecoboost with 6,000 miles on it. I just took it into the dealer for a clinking noise from the rear end. It happens when shifting between D and R and during dowshifting at low speeds. They said that ford is aware of this noise but does not have a fix yet.
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My rear bumper is rusting pretty bad. I have polished several times, and it comes back worse every time. Its less than 2 years old and I have mud flaps. I brought it to the dealer today, and the writer was trying to pass it off as normal.
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Picked up my new ride yesterday, 2012 F-150 STX tuxedo black, supercab
4x4, 3.55 e-locker, 5.0l. It is one nice ride but it already has a blown speaker rear drivers side which is frustrating, I see this is a common issue with these trucks. Just hope it is not a recurring thing. But still a great truck.
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I have just started to have this problem or what I think is a problem. When the electronic rear axle is locked and in icy conditions I am getting clunking sounds out of the rear end sometimes. Its hard to explain but it sounds like it is slipping in and out of engagement. Sometimes it works fine or what I think is fine and locks both wheels together and I get no sound at all. I switched off the traction control thinking that the sounds I was hearing were a result if it kicking in but this didn't change the sounds the rear diff is making.
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The problem is I haven't seen one for a recent (2011+) SD. I don't see anything that resembles a rear drum. They look like 2 huge regular disc brakes.
I live on a hill. My old man taught me to put the trans in neutral, autos and manuals, put the ebrake on and make sure it holds the vehicle, then put the trans into park or 1st gear. This way the weight of the vehicle doesn't rest on the transmission.
How do I adjust the Ebrake? It's ALMOST holding the truck, just needs a minor tweak. I don't see the dust cover the write ups described at all. The one that reveals the Star Wheel. Are they different on these years then prior SD's?
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On my 1996 explorer it has 2 brake lines that come out of the master cyl, then they go into the anti lock, then 3 lines come out of the anti lock. We replaced some bad brake and now have those 3 that come out of the anti lock mixed up. Which one of those 3 goes to the back?
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I have a 2011 FX4 F-150. My truck is parked in a garage at night, but obviously sits outside during the day while I'm at work. Almost every single day when it gets cold outside (probably 30 degrees or less), I climb into my truck late in the afternoon and the front brakes shutter like there's ice formation on the rotors. You can actually feel (in the pedal) and hear the rotation of that presumptive "ice" turn on the rotor and touch the pads. It usually "burns" off in just a few hundred feet, and the rest of the drive home is perfect.
BUT, sometimes that shutter is so bad that it sets off all the "check brakes", etc. type warnings on the dash. And I usually have to shut the truck off and back on to get those warnings to stop. Again, it's definitely related to the cold and there's something on the rotors or pads up front causing it. It apparently melts off almost immediately, but not before I have to use the brakes a couple of times just to get out of the parking lot, and it NEVER happens in warmer weather. The pads and rotors up front are new with lots of wear life left on them, and they are OEM Motorcraft pads.
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Looking for the easiest route to get my video cable from a rear (aftermarket) flip down monitor back up to the head unit. The monitor flips down pretty much in line with the back rest of the 2nd row (for reference purposes). I am thinking to the side down the pillar and under the carpet might be the easiest.
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I have a 2004 Elantra GLS. My left rear brake was hanging (wheel was very hot to the touch after driving, while other wheels were not), so I had a friend check the brake pads. We decided to replace the pads and rotors. While doing so, the parking brake seemed stuck in the on position, so I opted to have him disconnect it completely until I could afford to replace it. I had used it for the first time about 2 weeks before I noticed the hot brake problem, so we figured that must have been why the brake was hanging.
My friend replaced the rotors and pads, put some penetrant/lubricant on the piston of the caliper and reassembled the brakes. He did use the special tool to spin the caliper in when putting the pads on, however he didn't know that was necessary and tried to force them in with a C-clamp first.
Now, I seem to have two problems:
1. The left rear brake still hangs sometimes. I will drive the car and when I park it I can feel the heat coming off of the left rear wheel. It is extremely hot, so I know the brake is hanging (even with the parking brake disconnected). What is the problem here? Is the caliper bad? Would replacing the caliper solve the problem? Does the parking brake have to be connected to stop the caliper from hanging up?
2. My second problem is the pulsating of the brakes. I am afraid the rotor is warped because of the heat, or maybe he didn't clean everything well enough before he put the new rotor on. How can I figure out what the problem is? Is there a way to check a rotor to see if it is warped? Could there be another reason I feel the pulsating brakes? By the way, the brake fluid is full.
If the caliper needs to be replaced and I can leave the parking brake disconnected, are there any special instructions my friend should know about before working on this? He does work on a lot of cars and rebuilds cars to sell, so he is pretty knowledgeable. I think the only thing he didn't know about was rotating the piston. I would like to provide him with detailed instructions if necessary.
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2011 F-150, 5.0L, SuperCab. I usually only report odd things about my vehicles only after my wife says something. Didn't think about it really until she complained, keep in mind she drives a Subaru with a "CVT" transmission that doesn't shift.
What I noticed is that when driving at low speeds, say parking lot speeds my F-150 seems to slams into 2nd gear. when it does this it feels like you slightly got shoved in the back. Is this normal, I know it's a truck and there is a lot of rotating mass and torque going on here. My previous truck a 2008 Chevrolet 2500 HD, 6.0L felt similar at low, parking lot speeds, it also had a 6-speed trans like this Ford. Just wondering if this is normal for this beast.
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