Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2012 - Knocking / Tapping When Got Up To Operating Temp
Sep 9, 2015
About 3 months ago, I bought a 2012 F-150 XLT 5.0 4x4. I bought it from a private party, a.k.a. without a warranty. It's a Ford, right? What could possibly go wrong??
Shortly after I bought it, I started noticing that it was knocking and tapping when it got up to operating temperature. Also, the idle isn't very smooth.
I have read through several threads here regarding Coyote engines with similar symptoms, and I have come to the realization that my wallet may be about to go on a diet.
Here is a video I made today, moving my phone to various places in the engine compartment, behind the drivers front wheel, and under the truck.
2012 Ford F-150 5.0 Coyote Noises 80k Miles - YouTube....
I realize that it could run a long time like this, but I sometimes take long trips and I really don't want to end up with engine trouble in the middle of nowhere.
Considering I don't have a warranty, and assuming the problem is out-of-round cylinders and/or worn valve train parts, what is my best course of action?
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I posted about this back when I bought it back in Feb. and I thought the problem worked itself out but its back. When the temperature drops below 55 degrees or so, coming from the passenger side of the engine there is a chugging or knocking sound, more so when RPMs are high.
I had no issues with it all summer, but now that the temperature is dropping I noticed its back. Is this something I should worry about? What could be causing this? I had the same engine in my 07 and it never did this.
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My truck is a 2012 145'' scab Ecoboost. It doesn't have a level or any other suspension mods. I noticed a knocking sound while parallel parking this morning. It occurs while steering quickly turning the wheel 1/4-1/2 a rotation in forward and reverse . It is easily felt through the wheel and it makes a quiet sound. I have a crummy video I will attach below. You can hear the sound when the camera is in the cab. It seems like either balljoints or tie rod ends maybe?. I have an oil change in 1000 miles at my dealer so the timing is pretty good to bring it in.
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I own a 2012 GTI. For about the last week the cat needs to be driven for about 8 miles before reaching operating temperature (190). If I make a stop before the gauge has reached 190, the car will cool of very quickly. I realize it is very cold outside but this car and previous GTIs have not had this problem. The heater will not produce heat for the first 4 miles or so which is also not normal. The car has 17,000 miles and is parked in a heated garage every night, fwiw.
Maybe the water pump or something else in the HVAC system?
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I bought a 2009 F-150 King Ranch a few months back. It has 125k miles on it and the only aftermarket thing on it is some larger tires. I love the truck but twice now (at two totally different driving instances) I have started hearing this bad sounding tap in the engine. The majority of the time it has ONLY been when I am in drive or reverse. I can especially hear it if I am going through a drive through. Anyways as I was backing into a parking space today it started making an even louder tapping sound. I recorded it and have provided the link to youtube..
It continued to make this terrible sound until I revved it slightly and then it went back to normal idle. This all started as I was in reverse backing up but this is the first time it has continued even into neutral. Really hoping for not terrible news on this. Ive read about the cam phaser issue and nothing has been done to those yet. It is the 5.4L and a 4x4. How to fix this and not have a clunker for a truck...
Here is the link to the youtube video of the truck running... it was too large to be uploaded on here : [URL] .....
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As I was driving home from vacation the other day while towing my boat I started noticing a tapping sound coming from the passenger side. Sounds like an exhaust leak or a lifter. Can't tell. Sounds louder under acceleration. It's a 2009 5.4 with 70k. Just had ford do oil change last week. Oil level is good.
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I have a 2004 Grand Prix and it is displaying the symptoms of overheating but the temp gauge is not going above normal operating temp. I replaced the thermostat twice, and after driving for about 10-20 mins coolant comes out of the overflow. I'm at a loss, I'm thinking temp sensor(?) But I don't want to keep throwing unnecessary money into it. The fans work fine, the heater blows as it should.
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Have a 2011 F150 with the 5.0. 91K miles. On startup-cold or warm-there is a ticking/tapping noise coming from the engine for about 3-5 seconds then it goes away. Happens on every single start. Sound like it's coming from driver side on top of engine, but hard to pin point.
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So i just had my torque converter recall done yesterday but before that happened i told the dealer that iv been experiencing a chirping like noise when in gear and when tapping on the gas. It's very quick and goes away once i ease off the pedal. Anyways they told me it could be the transmission. Mind you i had my car for a year. I bought the car brand spankin new and currently have 19,000 miles. All they said was oh hey come back if you still have that noise which i do. So im thinking they didn't even look into it because its pretty obvious the noise it makes. Im wondering what this could be?
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I have a 2003 Corolla with 178K miles and a 2007 Camry V6 XLE with 30k miles. Both make a tapping sound when the engine is not at normal operating temperature (when the engine is still cold during the morning). I've changed the oil regularly on the Corolla with 5W-30 oil every 5k miles. I'll be making my first oil change on the Camry in about a 1 week.
The tapping noise goes away once the engine gets warm. Is the tapping noise normal? I don't hear this noise from our Honda Odyssey, which uses 5W-20). Can using a different weight oil work?
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I have this info on my new F150 with the Eco. 80 deg. day pulling my dual axle 5000 lb boat 70 MPH. Temp was 199. Is this about right.
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Having issue with the outside temperature display being way off. It doesn't do it all the time, but does seem to happen if I've been plowing or something. I think I've had it happen in the summertime also, but can't remember the circumstances. Basically it must be happening because I'm not moving much air. Where the sensor is located, and could there be something that may be blocking the air flow? I know this is a piddlely little problem, but if it's easily remedied, I'd would really like an accurate reading.
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When ever I first turn the key on to power everything up I hear a loud knocking noise which sounds like it is coming from the heater but goes away after 5 sec or less. Truck in question is 2010 f150 screw xlt with a 4.6
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I have a 2011 xlt crew cab with the 5.0 v8.I have noticed a knocking sound at idle, it happens when the engine is cold or at operating temp. It doesn't do it all the time but more often than not.
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Just noticed today that my trans temp always starts out from cold even after having driven it and it takes a little while to rise up to the temp I checked the other trans gauge same thing do I have a problem or does it really cool down that fast the truck sat for maybe 10 minutes.....
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In the 2004-2008 forum there's a lot of topics concerning the camshaft phaser knocking/ticking issue but I don't see much in this forum. Was that issue taken care of by 2009 or do some still have the problem?
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My girlfriend has a 97 Ford ranger that can't make it out of the driveway when it warms up to operating temp. This is what was replaced thus far. Cat, timing belt, plugs and wires, air and fuel filters. It has about 37 psi at the rail, the codes shown were second 02 sensor, and fuel to lean on bank one? I looked thru a few postings but I'm actually at work and can't really spend too much time looking thru much more. The timing was checked about three different times just thinking that was the problem after the new belt was installed. It does idle perfect at all temperatures it just won't go when it warms up. Unplugged the TPS, no change, was thinking electronic ignition module but not sure if it has one or where it is if it does.
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I'm a converted Chevy man and I don't think my 2011 F150 FX4 is cold enough. I am getting 46 degrees at highway speeds and outside vtemp is 77. My Chevy always get 38-40 in the same situations. What is eveybody getting? Is this normal?
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2012 F150 6.2L V8... I am at a loss and I know that loud knocking is not a good sign. Two days ago my truck's low oil pressure light started coming on and off, so I pulled over and immediately turned my truck off. I called a friend at a Ford dealership and he asked a mechanic what I should do. He said it could be something as simple as low oil, bad oil sending unit or maybe something serious. So, he said check my oil level if low top it off and see if that fixes the problem. It was low and I topped it off, but the light kept doing the same thing.
Here's my dilemma; my truck wasn't making ANY noises (knocking, whining, etc...), 2 days later which was yesterday I was en route to get new oil/oil filter changed and 24 miles later I'm in a turning Lane and it dies! Will not start, but it tried, so I did not try anymore. I was able to get it into a parking lot and left it for about 4 hours and went to check on it and it started right up and that is when the knocking noise started. I turned it off and checked the oil and the level reads full...
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Just had my 2010 F150 in for a loud knocking noise when the truck has warmed up in drive and rpm up to about 800. I can't hear the noise when I disconnect the passenger side vtc selonoid. The Tech who worked on it has recommended replacing the motor. His troubleshooting on the ticket says he removed the coil from the number 4 cylinder and the noise he hears goes away. I just can't see that the motor is bad.
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95 ford f250 with 5.8l. I have currently replaced the battery, alternator, distributor, cap, rotor, icm, coil, plugs, wires, act sensor, ect sensor, fuel pump, fuel press regulator. I got it to start today by messing with timing at distributor it ran to operating temp and died. Would crank but not start.. So I replaced the act tensor today.. Now it still won't start... koeo test gives code 327... I am stumped and about to tow it away...
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