Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2012 - Electronic Locking Axle Same On As 2wd / 4wd?
Mar 11, 2012
While I was test driving 2012's I noticed that the e-lock for the axle was on the same as the 2wd/4wd. I asked the sales-kid if it was in 4wd or 2wd when the rear axle was locked and he couldn't tell me. I figure its in 4wd, but its on the 2wd side of the
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I have just started to have this problem or what I think is a problem. When the electronic rear axle is locked and in icy conditions I am getting clunking sounds out of the rear end sometimes. Its hard to explain but it sounds like it is slipping in and out of engagement. Sometimes it works fine or what I think is fine and locks both wheels together and I get no sound at all. I switched off the traction control thinking that the sounds I was hearing were a result if it kicking in but this didn't change the sounds the rear diff is making.
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I have a 2012 f150 supercrew with the eco boost. While driving down the highway my rear tire passed me. After crashing I looked at the rear end and the wheel and hub had broken off of axle. Scared the crap out of me. Would this be a warranty issue?
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Just a quick question about the locking differential. I'm just wondering can you activate the locking diff while turning or on the gas pedal? Because today when I was climbing up an icy hill, I thought I'd turn on the locking diff,I was still on the gas when I pulled the switch. For a second I saw a warning on my dashboard, but quickly went away before I had a chance to read it. Just wondering in what conditions you can lock the diff. I also hear that you couldn't activate it while turning at a certain degree?
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my high beam switch works if I hold the switch in the forward position, but it won't stay on when I let go. Is there a fix without having to replace the switch?
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My front axle is making a groaning like humming noise when the truck is cold and first starting to drive it. It does it when speeds are at 30 mph and under and goes away when putting it in 4WD. It sounds like the hubs but I'm not sure. The dealer hasn't been able to duplicate it because they haven't kept it overnight. I'm just wondering if this happen to the truck, was it fixed and what was the issue. Like I said, I think it may be a vacuum issue to the hubs, but not sure.
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Wife's 2010 F150 4x4 85000 KMs makes grinding / ratcheting noise in LH front axle when in 2 wheel drive. Mostly when turning left some times when traveling straight never when turning right. Never makes the noise when in four wheel drive. I am suspecting the auto hub is the issue but wonder if others have had this trouble ?
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I just purchased a used 2010 fx2 screw with 5.4 and 6-speed auto. How can I find out what rear gear ratio the truck has? do I have to contact a dealer to find this out or are their any web based sites that can decode the vin? Is the gear ratio marked on the truck anywhere?
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Curious, how does the 4x4 engage in the new F-150's? When I put the truck in 4WD I can here the click sound coming from the front axle, where as it comes from the t-case on my Ranger. Just wondering how it's set-up.
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I was uber excited to buy my first brand new truck in 09..... Amount numerous issues, defective rear window (fought with ford for 3 years never replaced under warranty), sync issues draining my battery, multiple O2 sensors replaced, multiple lights replaced and a blown drive shaft all under warranty. Now my warranty literally just ended, years not miles, just rolled 36k yesterday, ran out 3 years in November 12, now I'm having break issues.
A few weeks ago while driving, I released the gas and truck seem to slow faster than normal. Seemed kind of unusual but also began to noticed a drag on my mpg, about 2-4 mpg difference, depending on highway or in town. Now 3 weeks later, I feel grinding under breaking. Now it's beginning to make sense. I figure probably a stuck caliper. While driving with head out the window , freezing in IL, by the way, seems to be the drivers front. Checked rotors, outsides only as there are the guards preventing me from checking the back side. No visual or touch grooves ground into the rotors from the pads being worn out. Best bet is its the back side of the caliper that is locked.
Question 1, does this make sense, only one side of the caliper locking up? I had a caliper lock on my old GTP but the whole thing locked up.
Question 2, do I just suck it up and replace the breaks my self, gf's dad is a manager at O'rylies so I can get anything I want at cost, or do I go back to the dealer and bitch about mechanical problems being constant with my new now only weeks out of warranty truck? I read some horror stories about clogged lines and numerous other issues causing calipers to lock. I don't feel like replacing my whole break system, lines, calipers and all just to make sure the problem is fixed. At 3 years this seems ludicrous.
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I only have one thing I want to change on our new GTI (which happens to be the ONLY thing I miss from our A3).
When we locked the A3, it gave a nice, short, clean, electronic "beep." However, locking the GTi generates a mildly annoying, and just-a-bit-too-loud "honk."
Is there any way to make the GTI "beep?" Is it as simple as coding, or does it require an add on part to actually make that noise?
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2012 5.0 getting about 13 mpg other saying they get 17 mpg.....
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Putting in a locking axle to replace there non locking axle? Have a 2015 f350. And found a electric locking for a great price. Can this swap be done?
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I have a 2001 f150 4x4 with the 4.6 Triton motor, the front axle is not pulling in when I switch the selector on the dash, I know the transfer case is switching so that part is ok. I know there are 2 solenoids on the fire wall, my question is which one is which ? every store I call says one has the nub at 9 o' clock and one at 6 o' clock which one of these does the front axle, don't want to order the wrong one ? I checked the vacuum and the blue line going to the axle always has vacuum and as I read the diagram the blue line is 2 wd and the red line is 4 wd so is the 2wd solenoid stuck and preventing the 4wd one from pulling in or is the 4wd one bad ?
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Having trouble with the radio in their truck? When I started my truck today my radio would not turn on, no AM/FM, CD player, Suris or Aux input. It does not matter what buttons you press. The sync will not work and none of the controls for sync.
The display said Ford Tough then the temperature was displayed, but the clock was flashing on and off. There was no pattern to the clock flashing on and off it could flash once or twice then nothing for minute or two then flashes once to 4 times then nothing. I tried a hard reset by disconnecting the battery for over 15 minutes but it made no difference.
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I have a 2012 f150 stx 5.0 and I drive mostly city with a few highway miles. Why get this bad of gas mileage?
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I've done 3 oil changes since picking up my 2012 Lariat 5.0 a little over a year ago. And I've always questioned the accuracy of the oil dipstick - seemed to always read 'low'.
I just changed oil tonight (Motorcraft 5w-20 semi-synthetic), and I measured the oil that I drained out - just about right at 8 qts. I put in 7 qts and 24 oz (about 1.6 - 2 oz over the 7.7 qts that it calls for) and the oil barely reaches the low level on the dipstick.
I guess between what I drained out and my current oil level reading, my dipstick is not accurate.
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I have noticed that on my 2012 5.0 Screw that the A/C isn't very cold. It is no where near as cold as my last truck, or any of a number of late model cars I have driven. If it's over 85 and I have it set to auto (70 degrees) it will never get there and just run full tilt the whole day. Even if you select Max A/C and blow it on you you will never have to turn the fan down from being cold as in other cars.
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I am looking at installing a CB in my 2012 F150. This thread isn't electronics based, there is already a sub forum for that. This thread is about radio placement. I have a 2012 f150 XLT that I special ordered... meaning I got the front buckets with the center console. I have an old SBE Sidebander IV that was my grandfather's that I am going to swing by the CB shop this week to get checked out. If everything is a go, I will go with that. So, this is a big radio fromm the 70's, not the little tiny things that are sold today.
So, whats a good location? Vertical on the front of the console maybe?
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We just sold our 04 Supercrew that was rusting out from underneath itself. I was unsure of what to get next until I drove this 2012 F140 XLT supercrew with the ecoboost. It is in fantastic shape and drive great. It does have 90k on its odometer and I wasn't sure if that should be of any real concern.
It was a one owner trade in and you would never tell the mileage by looking at it. I averaged 5k miles per year for the 5 years I owned my 04 so I don't drive real far. I also tow a 20' ultra lite camper which may get upgraded to a 24' ultra lite in a few years.
I just didn't know if I should be concerned about the high mileage with my driving habits and not driving very much. Do these motors have any maintenance issues? Everything I've read seems to be good....
This story really piqued my interest : [URL] ......
2012 F150 XLT Ecoboost with 90k.....
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How do I remove the Air Bag from my 2012 F150. I want to install a Cruise Control Switch.
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