Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2012 EB Won't Start When Cold - Starter Not Cranking
Feb 2, 2013
Just got my new work truck a '12 EB. This morning it was about 9 degrees and I jumped in and turned the key. The dash screen went out and the radio display went out then cycled back on but the starter didn't crank. I tried 2 more times with the same result. Then I just let the key in the on position for about 10 seconds and then I turned the key and it started right up. I stopped at several places and every time I went to start it it cranked and fired up the first try. Now tonight the truck has been sitting for 7 hours and it is 12 degrees, it took several tries before it cranked.
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I have a 2012 F-150 Platinum 6.2L. Every morning after a cold start, I get this humming sound until the engine heats up. It does seem to get a little quieter when I'm moving but not much. This only happens after the first start of the day and has only started doing this since it's been cold (20-30 F).
YouTube ......
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I have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.
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I have noticed that on my 2012 5.0 Screw that the A/C isn't very cold. It is no where near as cold as my last truck, or any of a number of late model cars I have driven. If it's over 85 and I have it set to auto (70 degrees) it will never get there and just run full tilt the whole day. Even if you select Max A/C and blow it on you you will never have to turn the fan down from being cold as in other cars.
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I have a 2012 F150 5.0 I just bought a couple weeks ago. I have a metallic ticking sound when cold, you can hear it when it idles down, but once driven and hot it is more faint but still there. Its not the injectors, Ive checked that.
Ive seen it posted in various forums but no cause mentioned. Ive had it in to the dealership and they are waiting for Ford to get back to them on what to do but I fear they will say its normal. My friends 2013 doesn't do it at all.
Listen to whole video, wait until the camera was placed on tire and its idled down to hear it. Its louder in real life but not extreme loud.
[URL] ....
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I have a 2012 truck that the AC wasn't blowing cold air this summer so I took it in and they said nothing was wrong... Took back in and they replaced vent control... worked a little bit. Fall came and my windows fog up and really never clears up so I take it in and they said it is blowing hot air but I told them that isn't the problem but the moister in the cab is the problem. I feel I'm getting the run around.
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Last night my battery died. We tried charging the battery today and it was didn't work, so I grabbed the battery out of my IS300 and put it in the F. The car still won't start, I don't even hear the starter cranking. Not sure what's going on.
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I have a 2012 EcoBoost with 10k miles on it. Got in a rear end / side collision and now the truck won't start. I have tried everything I can think of. The fuel pump sounds like it comes on and the dash display comes on just fine but it won't crank. Won't make any sound at all.
The battery is fully charged and all fuses have been double checked. I am willing to try just about anything right now.
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I have a 2012 5.0 with about 1500 miles on it. I have noticed occasionally on start up that it feels like it is trying to stall? I give it a little gas and it goes away.
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Experiencing blue smoke shooting out the tail pipe of your newer F150. Mine has been puffing blue since 12,000kms, still doing it at 55,000kms. Been to 2 Ford dealers (6+X) and they can never seem to repeat it. However it has been getting worse. Shop foreman guessed and said its valve seals.
I took a video, which I will post here, contacted Ford customer relations, and they tell me until it smokes at the dealer they cant go ahead with any repairs.I told Ford my truck will sit on the dealer lot until it smokes again and I am not driving it anymore. Photo is worth a thousand words, video is worth none. This is driving me up the wall!!.
2010 F150 5.4L Engine blue smoke - YouTube
Note the blue puff in the video is my truck, taken last Friday, and this is a small amount. Normally it fills my driveway and garage.
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It seems that my 09 F150 has developed a troubling noise... I'm looking for any cam phaser. I'm at 116,712mi. 5.4L motor of course.
On cold start, I hear about 2 seconds of "clatter" - sounds like something is "loose" on top of the motor. At hot idle, I hear the classic "diesel" idle, indicative of the cam phaser issue. In gear, the rattle intensifies and is very noticeable around 1000RPM.
Other than the noises, the truck runs great - like new.
Here's a video: [URL] ....
Under hood, under hood close up, driver's wheel well, interior, then interior in gear. You'll need to crank the volume to hear the last two.
Best I can tell, this is not an exhaust manifold issue. So, what say you? Cam phasers?
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I've only had my F150 for about 3 weeks and I think I've discovered a design flaw-
If you park on a 20% or steeper incline and the tank is less than about 1/8th full - the truck won't start. It has the 36 gallon tank - and the fuel pickup is located in the center.
The service rep told me that they have the same problem with the showroom trucks when they park them on a grass hill in front of the dealership. They have to roll them down onto the street to start them if the gas tank is too low...
Boy, I tell ya, there's no disclaimer sticker telling me to not let the gas get too low if you live in an area with lots of hills. I don't think I would have bought it if I had know this. The service guy described another owner of an F250 having the same problem...
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We have a 2012 Ford Flex with remote start. Remote start doesn't seem to work when car is on an incline. Backed car into driveway and started but won't when pulled in. Is this common Remote start is separate key fob.Remote start is factory.
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I've got a 2013 ecoboost with 31,000 mile on it. Generally it's been good but at 30,000 mile it started sounding like a diesel on cold starts. Usually after sitting overnight the first start rattles like a 6.0 liter diesel for about 3-8 seconds then it's quiet. It won't do it again all day usually. The dealer says there's no codes so everything it all good. It never did this until I hit 30,000 miles.
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A couple questions I have about my truck. I'm still new to the F150.
First, my truck has an Ecoboost and I have a slight stumble/hesitation when you start the truck cold. It clears up within 10 seconds and doesn't seem to affect drivability whatsoever.
Second, it seems that only my driver side mirror has the "dimming feature" to it. Is this normal?
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2012 F-150 5.0 Rough Idle Upon Start up - YouTube
Whenever I first start my 2012 F-150 with the 5.0, it idles rough and if I step on the gas it acts like either an injector is cutting in and out or it's missing. It doesn't really seem like a miss though, more like an injector/fuel issue. What it could be. If I let it sit and idle it won't go away unless I step on the gas and get it > 2500rpm or so.
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5.0 coyote exhaust leak .. Since the cold weather has arrived i have noticed a new noise. During cold start engine warm up I hear a nice little tick-tick-tick which sounds to me like an exhaust leak. Is this a common problem? I have just over 58,000 miles would this be covered under powertrain or do they have some nice exclusions for exhaust?
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For the past year I have had intermittent start issues with my LS that occur about 15 percent of the time. Ambient or engine temperature do not make a difference. Sometimes the starter engages but then disengages right away. I then need to depress the start button an additional time or two before it actually starts. At other times the starter engages and continues cranking while the engine sounds like it is trying to start (like it is just barely keeping ahead of the starter speed). That carries on for several seconds and then it starts. Nothing shows on diagnostics and the dealer says I am going to have to wait until there is a complete "no start" before they can trouble shoot. There was a similar issue with earlier 460 models but the Lexus service tech said that problem does not apply to the 2011's. It seems there is a lack of fuel delivery but from what point? And why only intermittent and momentary?
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I drive an Infiniti i30. When I bought it, the guy who sold it to me told me that the car runs great but that I would have to turn the key kind of hard to get the car started. Over time, this problem has progressively gotten worse. There have been times where I'd be stuck in a parking lot for over an hour trying to get the car to start. When I turn the key, I can hear the starter clicking, and all of the dash lots and radio will come on but the car doesn't sound like its cranking or even trying to start. The weirdest thing is that the first time I drive my car in the morning it starts up just fine. It's once I turn the car off after driving somewhere and try to start it again that I have problems. I'll have to turn the key 100 times or more sometimes to get it to start if its not the first time of the day. What this could be?
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So I drove my F150 to work as always, with no problems. I went to leave and it fired right up, but it wouldn't shift out of park. The emergency brake light was on even though the brake was not applied, the traction control light was on even though I wasn't moving, and the tire pressure warning light was on even though all tires are new and inflated properly. I removed the cables from the battery and brushed the contacts even though there was no grime on them, and when I went to start it, it just kept cranking without turning over. So I turned it to off and gave it one more shot and it fired right up, and drove like it was perfectly fine. Why this happened? I got 75k miles on it and have never had a problem...
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2014 fx4 full load, purchased new in sept 2014, having with the range/distance with the remote starter? Most times I have to be within 20/30 yards to activate it and if im inside my home or any building its useless and rarely activates it regardless of the distance. My point is a remote start is made to start your vehicle from a reasonable distance without having to step outside to activate it.
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