Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2012 - Clunking Sounds When Electronic Rear Axle Is Locked
Oct 30, 2012
I have just started to have this problem or what I think is a problem. When the electronic rear axle is locked and in icy conditions I am getting clunking sounds out of the rear end sometimes. Its hard to explain but it sounds like it is slipping in and out of engagement. Sometimes it works fine or what I think is fine and locks both wheels together and I get no sound at all. I switched off the traction control thinking that the sounds I was hearing were a result if it kicking in but this didn't change the sounds the rear diff is making.
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While I was test driving 2012's I noticed that the e-lock for the axle was on the same as the 2wd/4wd. I asked the sales-kid if it was in 4wd or 2wd when the rear axle was locked and he couldn't tell me. I figure its in 4wd, but its on the 2wd side of the
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I have a 2012 f150 supercrew with the eco boost. While driving down the highway my rear tire passed me. After crashing I looked at the rear end and the wheel and hub had broken off of axle. Scared the crap out of me. Would this be a warranty issue?
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I just purchased a used 2010 fx2 screw with 5.4 and 6-speed auto. How can I find out what rear gear ratio the truck has? do I have to contact a dealer to find this out or are their any web based sites that can decode the vin? Is the gear ratio marked on the truck anywhere?
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2009 XLT.. rear drivers side door is locked and closed. Master lock button, remote button and keypad all function and make the manual lock rod go up and down as it should. Both the interior and exterior door handles move freely, as if the door were properly locked, but regardless of the lock position neither will open the door.
I dismantled the door from the inside as best I could and can see all cables and rods are intact down to the actuator mechanism. Pretty sure something inside the actuator is messed up, but how do I get the door open to get at the screws needed to remove the actuator?? If I need to pry the actuator apart, what am I looking for (or more acurately, feeling around for) to release the door latch??
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2010 f150 4x4... Whether I'm in 4wd or 2wd when I turn at low speed something in the rear has slow clunking but clears out after a few feet of going straight. This occurs with or without a trailer behind me. Just bought this truck a week ago m noticed it about the third time I drive it.
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Well, get the engine running sound, then the drivetrain takes a crap on me. . . On my way home, about 60mph. Hear a noise from front drivers side. Gets to the point where I think I am losing a tire. Got out and checked the lugs, all clear. Got back in and the truck wouldn't move. Shifted thru all the gears, nothing.
Revved up to 1500rpm and it just sits there and shakes, like it wants to go but can't. No grinding or anything. Got a tow truck and as we were loading it, noticed that the front axle was rolling fine, but the rear was dragging. Tried it in N and D and it still wasn't rolling. Also observed drips on the flatbed and the drain plug on the transfer case was wet.
Praying that it is transmission, cuz I can just have them come get it and have it repaired under warranty. Heck its only got about 3500 miles on it. If its the hat to check? Ill be spending the rest of my evening on YT/Google. . . (Figured this was the right area to post this, cuz its a 99 7.3, I didn't see a dedicated drivetrain area so. . . )
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Was having some clunking sounds coming from the rear end on the old F150. Bro in law said it was lack of gear lube and the rear diff grinding from the start. Wasn't the issue. U - joints are shot and causing the issue. My question is I marked the drive shashshaft and flange with a sharpie but it rubbed off on the flange from free spinning the rear end seeing if the issue was there. From the drive shashshaft to the rear diff flange does the flange need to be marked or no? I did scribe with a nail the transfer case and marked the drive shaft with sharpie. So is the flange being marked important or just the bracket with the u-joint? Would've used soap stone but don't have any on hand.
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I have a 2012 f150 supercrew ecoboost with 6,000 miles on it. I just took it into the dealer for a clinking noise from the rear end. It happens when shifting between D and R and during dowshifting at low speeds. They said that ford is aware of this noise but does not have a fix yet.
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My rear bumper is rusting pretty bad. I have polished several times, and it comes back worse every time. Its less than 2 years old and I have mud flaps. I brought it to the dealer today, and the writer was trying to pass it off as normal.
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Picked up my new ride yesterday, 2012 F-150 STX tuxedo black, supercab
4x4, 3.55 e-locker, 5.0l. It is one nice ride but it already has a blown speaker rear drivers side which is frustrating, I see this is a common issue with these trucks. Just hope it is not a recurring thing. But still a great truck.
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So here it is, who out there with a 2012 SCREW can tell me how their rear parking brake cable is routed around the axle? The reason I ask is mine is routed under the axle and that just seems like a really screwy design. I would think any time the rear suspension was unloaded it could have the potential to engage the parking brake by the axle pushing down on the cable. My father has a 2014 and his isn't routed that way. I've also looked at a lot of pictures on the internet and haven't found any photos that show the cable routed under either. Is something off on mine, or is mine routed correctly and I just have not found any pictures that show it routed the same as mine?
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My wife claims that it sounds like something rolling around in the trunk. I emptied the trunk and checked the spare tire and jack, it was all good.
I drove the car last night in the rain, I think that I heard something once, not the end of the world noise that she describes. Tonight I plan to crawl under and look at the sway bar bushings etc. She claims that it does it mostly when she hits a "big bump". The real cause/solution is probably not to hit big bumps!
I think the sway bar bushings usually make a popping noise, maybe its the sway bar link.
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2010 F150, 165,XXX miles. On a bridge, at highway speed, the transmission locked up and locked the rear wheels. Everyone is OK, but scared the daylights out of my employee and a customer. Bad situation.
After putting it in park, and restarting, it seemed OK. We towed it to the dealership who replaced what I believe was a control chip on the transmission. Dealer said it is a known problem, and they aren't sure if the new controller would fix it?? They would not guarantee if the new controller would prevent the issue (per Ford).
I run a fleet with 7 F150's in it, and this employee is concerned about driving it. I have 3 2010's in the fleet. I am trying to figure out if this is limited to 2010, an incompetent dealer, or?
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My front axle is making a groaning like humming noise when the truck is cold and first starting to drive it. It does it when speeds are at 30 mph and under and goes away when putting it in 4WD. It sounds like the hubs but I'm not sure. The dealer hasn't been able to duplicate it because they haven't kept it overnight. I'm just wondering if this happen to the truck, was it fixed and what was the issue. Like I said, I think it may be a vacuum issue to the hubs, but not sure.
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Wife's 2010 F150 4x4 85000 KMs makes grinding / ratcheting noise in LH front axle when in 2 wheel drive. Mostly when turning left some times when traveling straight never when turning right. Never makes the noise when in four wheel drive. I am suspecting the auto hub is the issue but wonder if others have had this trouble ?
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Curious, how does the 4x4 engage in the new F-150's? When I put the truck in 4WD I can here the click sound coming from the front axle, where as it comes from the t-case on my Ranger. Just wondering how it's set-up.
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Overall I love my 2013 F150 and it's been great. I noticed my truck's transmission has been slightly clunking at 10 to 30mph. Meaning, driving in rush hour traffic... slow down, speed up, slow down speed up, etc. I have NOT experienced the hesitation, shudder or shaking. Anyway I took it into the dealership for service.
The dealer applied a transmission Technical service bulletin. So I'm reading the dealer's service dept. paperwork and it says 'Applied TSB to the PCM/TCM.' So I ask the 'kid' behind the service counter specifically what that means and he tells me that they applied a software update to the 'power train control module and transmission control module'. These modules are learning modules and I should drive the truck another 500 to 750 miles before I return for transmission service?
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Ok, heres my issue. '11 crew cab f150, 4x4 5.0L. 108K miles Yesterday got in my truck to leave and it would crank, idle very rough with RPMs fluctuating then die. Did this several times til it stayed cranked long enough for me to press the accelerator to keep it cranked. Headed out down the road and it drove fine. Then upon accelerating I'd hear a noise like rocks in a tin can. Every time I accelerated it would do this. Drove to a mechanic. He drove it, heard it and told me to bring it back today because he was covered up. The rattle sound is similar to valves ticking, but worse.
I got up under it and looked for loose skid plates and loose exhaust components and could find nothing. Took it for another drive,engaged the 4x4 to 4H, drove it for a minute, went back to 2H and the sound was all but gone. Went ahead and filled up with premium gas. (had an 89 ranger that would only run on premium so thought i'd try it) Drove home. the noise was gone. Got up this morning. The truck hesitated to start. took three tries, then fired up normally. then drove it....no problems. no noise, everything normal. Don't wanna take it to the mechanic, if there is no apparent problem now. What's going on with my truck?
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I've been wondering why my 5.4L sounds so grumpy at take off and then so quiet at speed.
I'm assuming this ain't factory? Looks like a flowmaster but can't find any markings on it.
I want to get dual exhaust (yes I like the look) but can't figure if I want Magnaflow or Flowmaster.
What I'm looking for is performance (is there even such a thing--rhetorical) and pure-wood-developing raw rumbling noise! Not the kind of noise but the kind that if you want to pop the throttle a bit you let the awesome guy next to you know that this truck ain't no slum.
I'm trying to figure out tips and placement-- I'm thinking straight back is the best bet?
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I have a 2007 Tacoma 4x4 and until recently everything was fine. I even got almost 75000 miles out of the stock tires. About a month after the new tires the battery died so I replaced it. Since then the front seems to have a slight vibration and a slight noise. Kinda sounds like when you hear a 4x4 with big mudder tires on pavement. Both the vibration and sound are so slight that others cannot hear or feel it, I just notice having driven it for over 5 years, mostly highway.
When rotating my tires I noticed the front "axles" (don't know the proper name) turn with the tires. With the wheel off I tried holding the "axle" while turning the disk brake but it was as if the hub was locked in. A neighbor who seemed to think he'd heard of it before asked if I'd changed out the batter or had to disconnect it which of course I had. He said that maybe the electronic hubs were not unlocking. The tires still spin freely as the transfer case is not engaged but both of the axles coming from it spin with the tires.
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