Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2012 - Brakes Sticking After Coming To A Full Stop
Aug 13, 2016
From everything I have read I can't seem to figure out exactly what the fix is for what feels like brakes sticking after coming to a full stop, then accelerating? I will describe as a clunking and kicking feel, as if power to the rear end is being delayed then kicking in.
From all the posts and replies it seems like a differential issue. Exactly what the issue is and the correct fix? 2012 purchased used with less than 5K miles in 2013, problem has slowly been getting worse over time.
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2004 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4WD.... Rear brakes make strange winding sound when coming to a full stop, noise only apparent under 5MPH. They have been completely done over. Rear end issue? Changes gears fine, brakes work ok.
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Just got a 2013 IS-F. Loving this car, but discovered an annoying issue. Grinding noise coming from front brakes when slowly coming to a stop below 5 mph. Is this normal?
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2012 f150 5.0 liter....Every morning when I leave for work I back out of my drive way and when I push in the breaks they are super squeaky. When I got my tires rotated the dealer said breaks were fine. I noticed my neighbors f150 Eco boost does the same things but not as loud. When the breaks are warm it doesn't do it. Can this be prevented it wakes up my parents in the morning.
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I have a 2012 Ford F 150 crew cab 4x 4 and have a problem it squeals in reverse. Brakes too and it's only in reverse and it's only for a short period of time as soon as I come to a complete stop.....
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I have a 2012 F-150 4x4 super crew all factory with 54,000 mi. I've noticed a new noise/hum at slower speeds, more frequent now. The noise doesn't sound like its from the front or back specifically. I pulled the front wheels this evening and the front rotors seem pretty tight, how easily should they turn with vehicle off for about 30 min? I started it and pushed and released the brake and quickly tried to turn them, very tight, after a minute or two they relaxed a little, another 5 min they seemed tighter? I sharpie mark on both inside and outside of the rotor and turned it past the pads and they are both squeezing equally ruling out binding of the slider bolts.
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I have had my ecoboost for a couple months now. Overall I am very happy with it but I have noticed a shudder recently when accelerating and when coming to a complete stop at times. I only feel it when accelerating from a stop or when stopping completely. Kind of feels like something slips. I think I recall reading about this before on the 2011 and 2012s somewhere. What is causing this and is there a fix or is it just the way these trucks are?? I can deal with it but it is kind of annoying when driving in traffic.
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A week ago, I bought my wife a 2010 Platnium White Lariat. (I will post pics later, when it's clean). We noticed that the smell of fuel, was bad after driving it, and coming to a stop, say at a stop sign.
We returned it to our dealer, yesterday, and this what they found. Just though I'd pass it on to you, for problem shooting, and infor to ask a dealership.
This is the quote on the paper we have. "Customer states when filling up or at idle the can smell fuel in the passenger compartment. Smells like coming from the engine area. Leaking at fuel rail. Tightened valve and road test no leaks now".
We were told that it was a "schrader valve". There was NO CHARGE for this repair. So far it seems to be o.k.
The advise we were given was as follows:
1) NO HEET is needed in the fuel tank
2) No Sea Foam, or injector cleaner of any kind
REASON: Was told it would mess up gaskets, and seals etc. I'm not a mechanic, just passing the word that I was told.
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I have a 2012 Ford Supercrew, 6.5 FT bed, Ecoboost that I got in April. About two weeks after I got it, someone ran a two way stop right out in front of me and I hit them on my drivers side front. Damage pretty minimal considering their car was totaled. I had my truck back from the body shop about two weeks later. Everything was great.
About 3 weeks after I had gotten my truck back, I began to notice a strange noise that sounded almost like someone was opening a door really slow. (more of a rapid popping sound than a high pitched squeak) It only happened on acceleration and the sound was coming from the passenger side right up next to the firewall. I figured it was something that wasnt tightened correctly from the body work. I took it to Ford for warranty work and told them this story...they werent concerned about the wreck. They suspected suspension...I agreed this was probable.
They checked and tore down the whole front suspension on the passenger side. They ended up replacing that whole side with brand new parts, new shock, upper lower control arms, new coil, gaskets, etc. Problem was still not fixed.
I took it back to the body shop where it was worked on and had the foreman ride with me so he could listen to noise. He said that he believed it was the suspension as well. He said that most of the bushings that sit on top of the coil come from the factory sort of dry...he suggested breaking it down and putting teflon grease between the bushing and the top of the coil tower that mounts to the frame. He said he has had luck with that.
Long story short, the driver side began doing the same thing. I took it back to Ford and they agreed to try what the body shop foreman had told me. Still no luck!
My front suspension has been replaced and broken completely down three times, tightened back up to factory specs, and re-aligned...and still no fix!
It sounds like a truck with 250,000 miles when I first accelerate, and I can still here it a cruising speeds when I hit bumps (air has to be off to hear it well)...
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I have a 12 F150 with the 5.0L. it has 27000 miles on the clock. Noticed twice a small puff of white smoke coming out of the exhaust and decided to check the oil level and it was a quart low. The last oil change was done at 23000 miles and used Full Synthetic Pennzoil and a K&N filter. Called the local dealership I purchased at and they told me NOT to use full synthetic and should only be using Motorcraft semi synthetic with a Motorcraft filter. I know the dealerships will only endorse and advice Motorcraft products but what does everyone else use and think. In the meantime I added a quart of oil and all is fine.
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My service advancetrac light comes on about once a month, seems random but when it does the turn signals will not work, you have to hold indicator in place for signals to work-not to safe. My local dealer has not been able to fix issue...
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At about 25,000 miles I had one of my rear brake pads sticking so had to change the rear brakes. The non-stuck pads on the other side looked decent still, so I'm assuming I'd have gotten quite a few more miles out of them if the one hadn't been sticking. Changed the front pads at about the same time, although they were in pretty good shape still (but it was taken apart already, so did them while it was apart and the chance was there). At about 50,000 miles later the rear pads are again unevenly (and I feel perhaps prematurely?) worn, and the fronts look fine. Is it something with the screw-type e-brake mechanism on the rear disc brake that lends itself to sticking? Or am I just especially unfortunate?
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For the past 2 months or so, my brakes sound like a horn when I get close to a full stop. The pads are about 7 months old. Brake fluid is good. Oil isn't fresh but I changed it about 9 months ago. 1997 Chevy Silverado C1500 2WD 5.7L.
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I recently purchased a '13 FX4, i love the truck, the Ecoboost power is incrediable. Recently while passing someone it made a horrible grinding sound, the dealer advised that it was known turbo issue that should have been corrected before we took delivery of the truck. When we took it in the dealer called and said they have Ford corporate involed because when the truck reaches WFO the four wheel drive tries to engage. Said it might be soem sort of vacuum issue.
Specs : 2013 Ecoboost Screw FX4 short bed. No mods, 6500 miles.
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2012 F-150 ecoboost oil level rising up to 1 qt over full. Took it to the dealer, They are installing a block heater and a new vent line. Cannot see what a block heater is going to do for me in a warm climate. I will let them do there thing and see what happens. 24,000 mils on the truck and warranty runs out in Dec 2015.
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I've read about transmission shift problems between certain gears with these cars but don't know if my symptom applies. 2004, AWD with 35k miles, however mostly short stop and go driving.
When applying the brakes to come to a complete stop, there's kind of a abrupt downshift that I can even feel in the brake pedal. The car even has a last second little shake and a bit of a clunk..
Difficult to describe, so here's a short YouTube video as well. (you may have to turn up the vol to hear it)
Definitely not the transmission. Pulling the ABS/VSC/TC fuse , the car brakes normally. Skid control affects turning in curves and TC affects acceleration. So, it's ABS related..
Lexus 2004 RX330 transmission downshift when stopping - YouTube .....
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Just bought a used 2012 IS-F 1-owner with 37k miles. Clean Carfax and AutoCheck - very, very clean car.
Test drove it with my wife, fell instantly in love, and signed the paperwork. As part of the dealer delivery, they gave a full tank of gas and washed/waxed the car.
While enjoying the 8 mile drive home in 5:00 traffic, regular speeds of 40-50 mph without any start/stop on the freeway and surface roads, I noticed that the range (distance to empty) on the full tank was only 169 miles!
I realize this is a hi performance V8 - but c'mon! Is there something wrong with the car?
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Sporadically over the last few fill ups, my gas gauge has taken to remaining at full for nearly 50 miles despite me doing my regular in town driving with hills. Up until this, Emma would drop off 'F' after between 30 and 35 miles like clockwork but this latest round of stubborn behavior makes me wonder if the float is sticking at the top. It happened again tonight and despite me doing only 25.1 MPG, it still stayed at full until 47 miles after I reset the trip meter.
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Having issues with the trailer plug on my f150 seems like bad connection because when pulling a flatdeck last week ,only the driver side tail light would work every now and then ,( might've been the trailer too though) so i put on a new plug but still no luck tested it with one of them plug testers with LED lights,but doesn't seem like there's power at all. Even though when testing it with a volt meter i got anywhere between 20 and 28 volts just can't figure out what's wrong with this plug..
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We purchased a brand new 16' tandem trailer last night. Plugged it in to my husbands 2011 F150 and hooked it up, lights went on, directionals, hazards, and break lights will not go on UNLESS the trailer light itself is taken off the trailer. We are thinking a grounding issue.
We pulled our 2011 F150 up to another trailer, same issue, only the running lights works.
Two days ago a old single axle trailer worked fine, break lights, directionals, everything.
When the owner put electrical tape around the bolts that connected the lights to the trailer the directionals worked, then they tightened up the nuts it touched the metal part of the trailer, it (meaning directionals, hazards, break lights) stopped working, (but the running lights stayed on). Are we tripping or what the heck is going on here?
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I have a 2012 FX4, 5.0. The dealer tuned the front rotors and replaced the pads at 19k because of a bad vibration when brakes were applied. Now at 45k, the same thing is starting to happen again. I am pretty sure it is not my driving because my 2001 F150 4x4 had 162,000 miles on it and never had a rotor off of it or turned and was on the 3rd set of pads when I traded it on the 2012.
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