Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2012 - A/C Blower Stops If Turned Up Too Quickly
Oct 14, 2015
I did not want to high jack the threat about the blower motor stuck on high, but on rare occasions my blower will quit all together if it is turned up too quickly. I can still hear the compressor clicking on and off, but no air moving. after waiting a few minutes it will work fine if you adjust the blower control slowly.
My truck is a 2012 lariat supercrew with navi and dual climate controls. oh and i believe i have about 300 miles left on warranty, but it is not doing it on a regular basis, i doubt the local ford dealership will repair it.
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So I have a 2012 xlt 5.0l single cab. Standard heat/ac with the non-navigation sync system. The blower and heat dosent work. The radio doesn't work on fm or Bluetooth. For the most part the screek doesn't say anything but if I hit the power button on the stereo the time pops up for a second. The key fob also doesn't work. When I click on the font the center console will light up but nothing will happen. The key doesn't work in the door but I'm not sure if it ever did. Intermittently it all comes back on and works just fine but cuts out again. A few times hitting the dash has made it all come back on. When it all isn't working and I press the eject button on the stereo the deck tries to spit something out and it says eject on the screen so I know the screen and the cd part of the stereo are getting power all the time. The Bluetooth doesn't work and the USB port doesn't work or charge my phone. The lights on the center console are all working but it doesn't dim when I dim the dash. I am baffled on what it could be and the harness is impossible to follow.
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If I just touch the starter and quickly release the switch, the engine continues to turn over until it starts. Does 2010 F-150 with a 5.4 do this?
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Started up today and no response from the A/C fan on any speed- dual climate control. Checked all fuses good. Electronic control panel shows normal with all the fan speeds, but no blower motor action.
Is it the motor or a resistor/controller? Thought with a bad resistor you would get the fan on at least in one speed.
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Started up today and no response from the A/C fan on any speed- dual climate control. Checked all fuses good. Electronic control panel shows normal with all the fan speeds, but no blower motor action. Is it the motor or a resistor/controller? Thought with a bad resistor you would get the fan on at least in one speed.
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My blower on my 2010 Lariat truck isn't working and I can't seem to figure the issue. No heat or AC. It seems that some air is coming through, and the fan indicator shows it on high, but nothing.
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My fan is NOISY!!! Its noisy in AC mode, defrost mode, heat mode, vent mode.... It really sounds like a leaf got sucked in. I don't wanna mess with the dealer since I don't think its a warranty thing. So, is it as simple as dropping the glove box and three screws for the blower as I have read?
2012 Eco.....
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Have a 2009 platinum, 5.4, supercrew with dualzone heating and air. The blower motor resistor block is overheating and melting the connector block. fooled with it way too much, and then put a new resistor and pigtail in it. The new resistor would kick out in about 30 seconds, so used the old resistor on the new pigtail, got hot, melted the new pigtail. What is causing the resistor block to get so hot, and what do I do about it?
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2011 FX2, 81,000 miles, with dual control A/C. The blower motor works fine on speeds 1-5. Put it on speed 6 or 7 and the motor trips after about 5 seconds. Turn it back below 6 or 7 and it starts working fine. I have replaced the resistor and the blower with the same results.
I have read through a good deal of the posts and most seem to deal with the resistor and the lower speeds not working. It's like its tripping a breaker or overload.
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What is the testing procedures for the blower motor controller on my 2009 150 Lariat. In the old days it was called the resistor but now it is computer controlled for the dual climate control. My fan is stuck on high, the fan switch does work(the bars on the display change when I push the fan speed button). The climate control works also, just blasts you with air and the temp is changing a lot due to the fact of the fan on High. I am 99% sure it is the blower motor controller, but I would like to test the controller.
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My blower fan will not run on setting 1. on 2 3 and 4 it will work but not on the lowest setting. I replaced the relay and it still doesn't work. I have a 2010 f150 with the 2v 4.6 .....
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My 2010 F-150 5.4 L has developed a misfire. I don't have the codes right now but can get them. Replaced all plugs and 3 of the 8 cops. Misfires right after startup but as it warms up tends to smooth out. When it is acting up it almost stalls out at stops. Where to next?
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Was 7 degrees F out this morning. Went to turn on the defrost and heard this: (may need to turn up audio a bit)
2013 F150 HVAC blower noise in cold temps - YouTube
There was some snow/ice buildup under the "grate" that sits above that I imagine is the air intake for the blower. Hoping that it was just Ice buildup that will thaw out.
I ended up having to turn it on because the condensation on the windshield was becoming a safety issue when I drove into work. Motor made quite a high pitched wine. Better that than slid into a car.
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In the last few weeks I have noticed that when I have the control set to floor only (manual system, not dual) I still have more air going to windshield than the floor. I can switch to Windshield/Floor, Center Vent and all seems ok. Just when in floor only it seems to keep going to Windshield. Asked the service rep at last oil change and he said it's normal for some air to always go to the windshield/defrost. I'm going back to dealer and check a new F150 XLT to verify I have a problem.
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I replaced the blower motor resistor on a 2010 F150 with dual climate control where the blower was stuck on high.
After replacing the resistor, now the lower speeds work fine, but when placed on high speed, the fan completely shuts down. Replace with the old resistor, and it only runs on high.
How to proceed, or what else might be the problem?
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After turning the truck off and restarting, the towhaul button needs to be pressed to turn it on, I always forget this and pull into traffic, my question is can towhaul mode be turned on and off "on the fly" or do I need to be at a complete stop? I looked through the manual, It doesn't say that I have to be stopped. I never had an auto trans. with this option before.
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I get a feeling it's some type of door that either wants to open or shut but it takes a few times to do it. It doesn't always do it too.
2011 XLT 28k on it.
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I have a 11 f150 with a 5.0 can I Disable the traction control? All I can do now is turn it off on the dash and it kicks back in at 20mphish and it absolutely sucks in snow! Other than pulling a fuse do I have any other options?
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I have a 2014.5 Camry. About once every month or two, when I cut the car off, the radio lights flicker for a few seconds then stops. The lights seem to flicker long enough for all of the electronics and modules to power down. I have taken it to the dealer, but since the problem cannot be duplicated, nothing has been done. Just trying to figure out what may be the cause before the car goes out of warranty.
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Question: blend doors clicking even when the key is removed from the ignition? Mine clicks for quite awhile after I turn off the truck (probably 10 mins or so, I haven't stuck around to see when it finally stops) Asking out of curiosity....and this thread may put some people at rest down the line.
I do love this truck and I don't mind working on it at all. The Blend doors allow me to paint the dash trim with Bright Aluminum Plastidip.
Leaky T coolant connector which I don't mind.....wanted to switch out to a 170 degree thermostat (SSI Tuned and South Texas Heat) and do a coolant flush anyways. Might as well hammer it all out. No biggs.
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This morning (roughly freezing temperature - nothing out of the ordinary after the brutal winter we just had) got onto the highway to head to work and set the cruise control (as normal) at approx 110km/h (65mph) and after several seconds heard a distinct, quite unpleasant grinding noise. It was loud enough to be heard over the heater and radio. Turned the heater and radio off to listen closer and didn't like the sound of it - sounded like metal on metal.
There was no different feel in the floor, pedals or steering wheel. As soon as I turned cruise control off, the noise disappeared! Turned cruise control back on, and the noise returned approx 5 seconds later. If I continued driving along normally and sustained a certain speed, the noise would appear after 5 seconds again and only go away once I lifted off the gas or coasted down a hill... Very bizarre. Once I got to work and poked my head underneath didn't immediately notice anything out of the ordinary - no funny smells or anything...
Background info: 2011 FX4 ecoboost, crew cab. Stock, no modifications. Approx 134,000km (~80,000 miles)...
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