My last problem was a leaky rear window. In my 11 F150 XLT, whenever I turn the Recirculate on with the main vents, my main vents seem to stop blowing. 2-4 work, but no 1.
View 2 RepliesOK.. 2005 F150 Lariat. Air conditioner worked on the way to work, went to drive home, air not blowing out the 4 main dash vents. Blows cold out the feet, and redirect SEEMS to be working, just not blowing at all out the main vents in the dash?
Even if you adjust the temp to where it should be blowing warm/hot air, it will not blow out the main vents.
My first issue popped up during this week. Only 20k on the clock (I don't put nearly the miles on this one like the 6.0) and I have a/c vents on the driver side spitting out hot air, while the vents on the passenger side spitting out cold (which is the way it should be as I have it set on 60).
Of course, out of all the issues that could have crept up, that one is relatively mild. Other then that, still enjoying the 150 immensely. Just wish it was a diesel, can't have it all, although certainly can wish/try.
I have a 2010 F150 and now only cold air comes out of the vents. I have not changed the thermostat since the truck is not running hot. I have read that the blend door may be stuck. Where the blend door is on the 2010.
View 1 RepliesJumped in the truck this evening to go to the store and when I stared it up the left turn signal was blinking. Lifted the arm as usual to cancel and it does not cancel. Cannot get the left signal off unless I hold the turn signal up for the right signal. The right signal does not activate, but the left does go out as long as I hold the arm up. Let go and the left starts blinking again. Tried driving around to see if it would cancel and no luck. The bulbs are all good. I checked the relays in the fuse panel and they are good. Dang thing just won't shut off. It is a 2011 F150 SCREW Platinum w/5.0.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 F150 with 39,000 miles. This morning the truck started fine. I ran in to get something came back out and the truck had died. I tried to restart it and nothing. When you turn the key forward the starter spins and wont stop until u turn the key off. The truck never tried to fire. The motor tuned over and over but nothing. is there a starter relay? A solenoid?
View 2 RepliesI have had my ecoboost for a couple months now. Overall I am very happy with it but I have noticed a shudder recently when accelerating and when coming to a complete stop at times. I only feel it when accelerating from a stop or when stopping completely. Kind of feels like something slips. I think I recall reading about this before on the 2011 and 2012s somewhere. What is causing this and is there a fix or is it just the way these trucks are?? I can deal with it but it is kind of annoying when driving in traffic.
View 1 Replies2010 F-150 owner. Why my left trailer-stop/turn will not work on any of my trailers. This issues has happen to me in the past due to a wire grounding out in one of my trailers, I have fixed the issue in the past by changing the 20amp trailer/tow fuse, this time the fuse looks fine and I am still not having any luck finding the issue. I have went through my manual to see if it could be a different fuse and they all seem to check out ok, I have also messed around with the relays and they seem to be fine too?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 XLT 5.0 V8 with 133,260 miles. I have extended warranty for the next 12,000 miles...which is great because I drive about 400 miles a month... Anyhow it runs great but for one small issue (hopefully) that has been intermittent.
She likes to idle slightly rough in drive at a stop or very low speed, and in reverse at slow speed. If I don't maintain the RPM it will stall and the low oil pressure light will come on, which I imagine comes on because of the sudden stall.
I first noticed this while backing into my garage in the driveway, It would fluctuate in RPMs and if I didn't maintain the gas it would shut off. I took it to the dealer and all they were able to tell me was the Tranny fluid was low and it would cause it to shut off at incline because a sensor isn't detecting fluid in the tranny. I thought this was weird but being as I have never owned an F150, I didn't know better.
It was fine for a little over a month and it started doing it again at stop lights and backing into my driveway. It has become frequent but there is no issue driving at speed and on the freeway. There is no stuttering or shaking and if it weren't for the fluctuating RPM at a stop and the stalling, it would be hard to tell if there was an issue.
All I can note is that there is a clicking sound under the hood, if I remember correctly the last time this happened I was at a 1/4 tank of fuel like I am now, I also feel like it may be a throttle body issue, or some sort of air sensor, I plan on taking it to the dealer but I figure I would get a more informed answer on the forums.
I also hear this is a common issue with the 5.0s... I purchased the truck in December and since then I have only put 250 miles on it.
I'm trying to fix a transmission problem with my work truck. It's a company owned, 2011 f150 super cab, 2wd, 5.0 and 6 speed auto. It currently has 225K miles. The problem is very random occurring 2-3 times per week, usually happens on start up, and goes away after a hand full of engine restarts. It has happened twice on the freeway, the transmission releases and a complete loss of power and coasts to a stop. At the same time, the speedometer goes to zero regardless of vehicle speed. Normally, when it happens, the speedometer does not read, all the mpg, miles to E, and related meters show bars "-----". The vehicle starts and takes off ok, but when it tries to shift, it just releases and the truck coasts to a stop. It will repeat this for a while.
After several restarts, the truck goes back to normal. This has happened a couple dozen times now. The wrench and check engine light came on during the very first instance, but the auto shop said there were no trouble codes stored. They kept it for a week, and said it never reoccurred. I have a lousy video that shows, when this happens, the trans starts in 2nd, jumps to 5th, then 2nd, then 5th. I am past due for a new work truck and this one is on its way out, but has to last another couple of months! This truck has otherwise been very problem free and well maintained. I'm actually thinking of trying to pick it up cheap, if the repair is not too bad.
I have a 2011 f150 xlt it didn't come with the mirrors that have turn indicators on them they have the dummy covers. Putting the indicators in there....
View 3 RepliesWhat is happening is that air will stop blowing through the vents randomly. We will be trucking a long with either a/c or heater on and all of the suddon it will stop blowing. I know the blower is on because I can toggle between vent and defrost. It will blow out of the defrost but will not through the vents. It can be anywhere from 1 to 10 minutes and all the sudden it will start blowing through the vents once again. It just doesn't blow through the vents. This is a 1992 E-350 with a 460 in it.
View 3 RepliesI have absolutely loved my 2011 F-150 8 cyl since I bought it in 2013. I'm just now having my first issue...
For the past two weeks or so, I've had an issue with intermittently hard starting. It cranks like normal but doesn't turn over instantly. The longest its gone before starting has been about six seconds. Although originally happening only 10% of the time, its happening about 40% of the time over the past couple days. I had my mechanic take a look and the battery and starter all checked out fine.
Biggest problem was that it never did it for them making it hard for them to trouble-shoot. Thus far its always started, just takes an indescript amount of time in which to do it. The time of day doesn't seem to matter although afternoons in which I'm heading to lunch after being in the office for 3-4 hours seems the most common time.
My heater vents have been acting up. I have read that there may be a vacuum leak that causes the blend doors to default to defrost...
Where the vacuum line fails? I have ESOF 4x4 and that is still working. I think there may be a correlation between engine vacuum and my vents: at cruising or idle the vents work ok (not perfect) and under acceleration (less vacuum) the dash vents stop blowing.
I thought that the blend doors had their own vacuum pump, so I do not know why things change at different amount of throttle?
I have a Honda civic 2011. Sometimes my middle two ac vents is not blowing out any air at all ( but the sides somehow works very little ). The reason why I said sometimes is because it stopped working for a day then it would work again the following day. I don't know what's wrong with it. I called for an estimate and the guy tells me if he has to open up the dashboard to open up the vents it would cost in upwards of 800.
View 8 RepliesI took my Enclave in to get the rack and pinion steering change out for a new one, which was about two weeks ago. I've had the car back for about a week, and the day before yesterday, the air stopped blowing out of my top vents, and only comes out of the bottom. Do you think this problem is related to the recent repair, or do you think it's completely unrelated. What the problem could be?
View 3 RepliesDoes it mean it's broken? I turned on the AC a couple times today and it was working fine. Just a few mins ago when I turn on the knob to to 1, there's no wind blowing out of the vents.
Just a few info in case you need to know: Weather temperature was hot today: 103 degrees. When the AC was working, I had the knob at level 2 the most. The car temperature was normal.
I always turn off the AC before I shut off the car.
I drive a 99 Passat 1.8T ....
The other day in 90 degree weather I found that the left side vents where blowing warm air the right side is blowing cold air ,I checked the settings and vent controls to rule out driver error. Living in South Florida A/C is not an option its a necessity. Especially driver side air.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 f-150. Started having issues with the blend door actuator located behind the radio so replaced that a couple months ago and fixed issue. Now the a/c will only blow through the defrost and floor vents. I replaced the lower blend door actuator thinking that might be the culprit, but did not fix the problem. What the solution might be.
View 3 RepliesI have 06 ford explorer in which the air comes out the main vents really weak! I've replaced the Blend Door Actuator thinking that would fix the problem but it didn't . The blower motor works the air gets cold and hot and the defroster and floor vents is where the air comes out strong.
View 3 RepliesI have an 09 camry with 35K miles on it. I have had this problem checked and am assured that this is the way the air condition is supposed to function but I have a nagging feeling that it is NOT supposed to function this way...but who knows. The last dealer I had check it says they went all the way up to Toyota Corporate to Verify my A/C's functionality.
Issue: When driving the car (I live in Florida) if the Temperature is on ANYTHING but MAX A/C and I have the Air condition Strength set to OFF.... the Recirculate (keeping only inside air) button automatically turns itself off.... lending itself to outside air coming through the vents even if the Strength is set to the Off mode.
This is particularly annoying when it happens and you are satisified with the internal temp of the car without adjustments. Now, you all will notice I said any temperature besides MAXAC. Now keeping the temperature to MaxAC does KEEP the recirculate button ON most of the times (when the A/C strength setting is on off as well)... HOWEVER, in FLorida at winter time this WORKAROUND does not seem to work anymore...because the temperature is lower outside in the 30's to 50's.
So I would imagine that outside of Florida in a Camry this would be partifularly annoying when not wanting to bring any outside air into the car when driving.