Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2011 - Wrench Signal Showing On Instrument Cluster / Speedometer Will Go To 0
Jan 8, 2016
Town and all shops nearby have a week wait to get the truck in there. This happened once or twice a year ago but I'd pull over, shut it off and when I restarted it everything was fine. I'll be driving and all of a sudden the information display on the cluster will show a wrench signaling something's wrong(see image), then the speedometer will go to 0 and all information in center display will show flat lines. This started up yesterday but is now doing it after about 10min of driving every time I being driving. What's worse is the truck will randomly start shifting or shift extremely hard even when driving at a consistent speed. This was taken while truck was going about 45, but shows 0...
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2011 F150 xlt . had a red triangle appear over the A/B trip mileage etc. yesterday.
Go to any other menu settings, and it disappears.
I have done a reset 3 or 4 times, and nothing changes. I checked the owners manual, but didn't find anything.
Did a search on here, but found nothing.
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I have a 2011 F150 supercrew 4x4 5.0, it has almost 8k miles. I have looked around online to see if this is a common issue but haven't found anything really. The airbag warning light in the instrument cluster will come on and stay on randomly. Some days it only lights up when I start the truck, other days it will turn on and stay on until I restart the truck. I think I have a glitch or a malfunction in a switch somewhere with the Airbag system. I will be calling the dealership about it after we finish the Easter Weekend.
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I'm having issues when shifting into reverse and I it goes into limp mode when the wrench light shows up. This will not happen when shifting into Drive. When in limp mode I get engine code P0720. This calls for a bad Output Speed Sensor and my research says the sensor is on the back of the transmission but I cannot find any sensors on the transmission. there are several connectors clipped to it but I don't see any bolted in sensors. Also I cannot find a replacement sensor anywhere so I'm wondering if this is a generic code.
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Have a '13 F150 Platinum. Recently three things "broke" at the same time and I suspect a fuse but cannot locate the right one. At first I thought it was just the GD Opener, but when trying to reprogram it, I realized the red lights were not lighting up and the Drivers side Vanity Mirror light was not working.
About the same time, I noticed that the Instrument Cluster Memory function quit working and weirdly, every time the truck is switched off and then back on, it always comes back to the trailer tow screen for my Snowmobile trailer.
I thought i had it solved when I found that the trailer back-up lamp relay power fuse ( #43 in fusebox under hood) was blown. I replaced with a good 15 amp fuse and the problems are still there. I have searched high and low and cannot find a fuse for the Car2u GD Opener or the Driver Vanity Mirror Light (neither Vanity light for that matter. I tested all under hood fuses, but the kick panel fuses are impossible to check one-by-one.
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I have a 1997 Ford Expedition, 5.4. My research indicates that fuses 2. 19. 29 are associated with the instrument cluster (IC), could you identify their specific function in relation to the IC? My IC gauge lights are not showing and my alternator is not consistently charging. The blinkers, battery, oil, brake, and ABS indicator lights are showing in start. Regarding the alternator, my research indicates that a failing alt light on the IC may cause the no charging condition? As a note, I have a brand new battery, brand new alternator, brand new 3 pin wiring harness. Also, when the alternator is not charging and I connect the a jumper from the exciter wire directly to the pos battery terminal, the charging starts.
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I own a 2012 Toyota Camry LE (TCLE), and recently I've noticed that the "instrument cluster" shows "MAINT REQD" warning light on for more than a few seconds when I start the car. All other warning lights do turn off while the "MAINT REQD" is still ON for a few seconds more than I usually remember. This car has about 25K miles, and I bought it with 19K miles. Should I take it to a dealer for a check up? By the way, I was waiting until the end of February to take the car for a oil change, but I am now concerned with this stupid WARNING light
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I am having a slight issue with my cluster. When I turn the key on or start the car, the speedo needle goes crazy for about a minute then stops above 0mph (points at 5mph when im not moving). While that's happening, the other needles don't work until the speedo normalizes. It also does this when i turn the car off. What this could be? I heard about the VSS can cause speedo issues but what about the rest? I also heard the mk4's can have cluster failures. it's a 99' mk4 vr6 jetta 5spd.
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While traveling speedometer and fuel level indicated blanked out. No other problems--I could see our speed by using GPS.
Toyota service said a circuit board was burned out. I searched and found numerous such problems with 04 up to 09 and eventually (in 2012) Toyota initiated an extended warranty to cover replacement of the board.
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My 09 F150 Platinum 4x2 used to get 15 mpg city regularly. One day while driving the wrench light popped up and i was in limp mode. I parked the truck and went to my scheduled squadron PT like a good troop is supposed to do. Anyway, finished and the truck has been fine, Ford dealer finds no issues at all with it. My gripe is now i get 12 MPG since the issue and I told them my MPG has gotten worse since it happened. What it could be?
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Jumped in the truck this evening to go to the store and when I stared it up the left turn signal was blinking. Lifted the arm as usual to cancel and it does not cancel. Cannot get the left signal off unless I hold the turn signal up for the right signal. The right signal does not activate, but the left does go out as long as I hold the arm up. Let go and the left starts blinking again. Tried driving around to see if it would cancel and no luck. The bulbs are all good. I checked the relays in the fuse panel and they are good. Dang thing just won't shut off. It is a 2011 F150 SCREW Platinum w/5.0.
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The last few days I've started getting the Wrench Light on my dash panel upon starting the truck and trying to put it into gear. I first noticed this on a cold morning and got the wrench but the truck went into Reverse and once I got going I was only in 3rd gear. I started and stopped the engine a few times and finally got it going. Since then it seems to do it all the time whether hot or cold. Tonight I noticed that if i start the engine and just go directly into Drive. I don't have the issue but if I ever go into Reverse it goes into limp mode and i get the big yellow wrench again. I only have engine Code P0720 which seems to refer to a speed sensor. I can't seem to find the sensor listed on the typical auto part websites.
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Ok .. Airbag warning light is on..... And won't go off i have taken battery off try reset that way nothing. Also steering wheel lights are off...
Only thing working on instruments on steering wheel is the left side is the radio and phone and volume and mode right side of steering wheel not working but nothing is illuminated!!!!???? On wheel
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Instrument cluster (speedometer, Tachometer, Break & ABS light) is not working while driving.
My video for my 2009 camry 2.4 LE is here: [URL] .....
Toyota service center asked $6000 to replace wire harness and PROBABLY electronic control unit.
I found some posts, but the answers are not that clear to fix it. [URL] ....
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I have a 2012 F350 XLT that came out of Canada. So of course the speedometer is in KM. (Large numbers are km and smaller numbers are mph). I am trying to find out if I can simply change out my cluster with a mph cluster???
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My truck ('10 4x4 w/5.4l, 65k miles) gave a P2096 this past weekend. Cleared it and drove around for a while. Today it threw the same code. No other codes present, just P2096.
I did look under the truck and it seems pretty easy to get to the two sensors. Is it worth swapping them to see if the code changes to the other side?
Truck idles and accelerates just fine. Fuel mileage seems to be down a bit, but the air filter is very dirty and I will be replacing that this week.
I have seen you can check the sensor by heating it and measuring the voltage. Seems easy enough to do, but do you create other problems from that?
I did notice that the connector to the mass air flow sensor is cracked, probably from checking the air filter. I would think if that was the issue it would be showing some MAF code.
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Couple of weeks ago, the display in the instrument panel displayed a large orange wrench. No accompanying text or chimes, just the damn wrench. Checked for codes, nothing out of the ordinary (I occasionally get communication codes, but they usually show up when I do not wait to start). Long story short, the damn thing showed up one more time the same day, then never again.
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I have a 2012 ecoboost, recently I went to the trip gauge mode and the display screen for trip A had a yellow rectangle imposed over the time,mpg ect.and would not function correctly. When I switch to trip B info, all info operated correctly and no yellow rectangle in trip B mode. Trip A mode continues be inoperable and still has the yellow rectangle even after the engine was shut off several times during the day.
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I recently went up in size on my tires after installing a Leveling kit. Today for the first time since I had to take a long trip and was checking my speed against what the GPS was stating.. there is about a 8mph difference.
So if the truck says 65, the GPS was saying 73/74, and the faster I went the bigger the difference got.. so if the truck said 70, I was going closer to 79/80
I know that there needs to be some adjustments made so it read correctly again, just wondering if there is also some adjustments that can be made to get the RPM's down at cruising speeds also..
In the past when I would do around 70 or 75, the RPM's would be around 1500 to 1700, now im staying steady at 2000.
What am I looking at to get back to somewhat normal again?
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i have a 2010 f-150. during the day normal sunshine the gauge area is to dark to see any unless you put your head down close to the steering wheel.at night when the lights are on it is just great. At dusk the lights on the dash come on by them self. is there something i can do to have them on all the time i have good eyes & do not wear glasses.
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Any work around/fix for the gauge brightness dropping so dramatically with the headlights on? I have it maxed out on the rocker switch (brightest) but would like to be closer or equal to daytime brightness.
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