Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2011 - Should Use Silicone Wax On Vehicles With Clear Coat?
May 31, 2011
I have a ingot silver 2011 F150.....I've seen some posts that say not to use silicone wax on vehicles with clearcoat (I assume this is the candy red and premium white?). Any opinions on what is compatible with my silver?
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A little over a year I had my rear outer wheels replaced due to corrosion under the clear coat around the valve stems, 15K miles
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - Service experience with a new to me dealer
Next week another pair are being installed for the same issue, 31K miles.
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On my 2001 Passat the clear coat is peeling in the thin gutter area between the roof and area above the doors. Its only on the passenger side.
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Seems like the clear coat on both of my headlights is starting to get milky. Whatever is going on, it is happening from the outside. I buffed on them with scratch remover and put a coat of wax on them, (looks a little better now) but there is something going on.
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I'm planning on doing a paint correction on my car and was wondering if I need to be concerned on how much clear coat will come off during the process? I'm going to be washing and claying it beforehand and using a dual action polisher for removing the existing swirls and micro scratches. It's a black car if that makes any difference. The reason I ask is that I'm not a detailer but have heard that some of the modern autos don't have that much clear coat on top of the paint or that some areas (like the edges) don't have clear coat compared to other areas. I also bought the car used (its about 3-4 years old) so I don't know its washing history.
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I know it's a typical new car issue but every time I look at my car I see a new chip. None of them are major, usually just some missing clear coat but yesterday I found one that looked like it had been masked with fingernail polish. How do I remove this without damaging the paint underneath? Also, how do I level the repair after the clear coat?
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I got our car back from the dealer for catalytic C. Replacement and the pressure tire light was on. Check tire pressure in the morning and went up to 40psi to see if they reset. No luck.
Lower back to normal after three weeks all tires including spare are at 33psi. Also, the clear coat on my wheels is peeling off.2006 2.0T 85K Miles.
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I Have blisters in the clear coat of the steering wheel. Two have opened and the clear coat has started peeling off.
07 LS460
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The paint is starting to get cracks on the hood and fenders of my 2008 Honda civic its dark blue with 43,700 miles the dealer said the warranty for paint is 36 months or 36,000 miles. They said its the clear coat and the black and dark blue paint has been doing this.He is checking with Honda to see if they will paint the hood and fenders for me.I feel that in time the rest of the car will get these cracks to and they should repaint the entire car, since they admitted that it is a problem with the clear coat.The car is always garaged and waxed often.What do you think
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I bought my 2004 toyota tundra limited addition brand new it has 310000 miles. It runs like brand new. The only things to complain about is the paint and piston slap. My paint faded and clear coat started peeling 6 years ago. I notice piston slap 6 to 7 years ago. Runs like brand new. Open the hood no leaks not dirty very clean. I've maintained this vehical from day one it serves me well hoping it will out live me. I don't see to many 04/05 on the streets.
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On the hood, just beyond the 3M plastic covering is a small, silver-dollar sized area where the clear coat on the paint has begun to deteriorate and peel back leaving the paint exposed.
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So I noticed a couple of weird patches on my mothers 2006 Silver Camry. After about a couple of month(s) it looks like clearcoat failure. My mom is the first owner and bought it brand new. The car has 90k miles.
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My MY2012 Passat 2.5 SE currently at 37k miles all of a sudden is showing clear coat peeling near the trunk/rear panel area. Car is a CPO and clean carfax (no accidents) and currently still under warranty. Planning on taking it back to the dealership and hopefully start a case for warranty work under VWoA.
I've never encountered clearcoat failure this early on, case in point my B5 (MY1999) still has excellent clear coat uniformity despite the paint/body being 17+ years old.
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The windshield wipers on my 2010 F-150 do not wipe a clear path. I have tried several different brands of blades without any good results. It is like the blades have to have more tension against the glass. Is there a way to increase this tension?
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My 2011 3.7 CC seems like it is missing at speed.
If I am around 75 or so in 6th is vibrates, but downshifting to 5th or 4th seem to take it away.
I am going in tomorrow and have the tires rotated and balance, but I think it is somewhere else. It has a little over 42,000 miles
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2011 Lariat. My key fob is starting to come apart, and dropping it didn't work any.
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i have a 2011 f150 xlt with the 5.0, my 4x4 does not lock in very well, i practically have to come to a stop and wait for it to engage fully or it starts banging and slipping like its trying to engage and not quite making it. are they still suppose to be on the fly? is there any kind of maintenance that i can do to them to have them work better? are they still locking hubs or did they change something?
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How do you remove the pcv valve on 2011 5.0l. I don't want to break it .
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I bought a 2011 F-150 a year ago. Today was I driving my truck like usual and for some odd reason, it revved up to 3500 and then my truck shooked like I hit a big pump. I'm debating whether I have a faulty transmission or something. I barely touched the foot pedal. I wasn't evening barely putting any pressure on the accelerator and for some odd reason, it revved up that high and something shook my truck. I know a little bit about vehicles, my transmissions are not my thing. I'm gonna' take it in Monday morning to work.
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We purchased a brand new 16' tandem trailer last night. Plugged it in to my husbands 2011 F150 and hooked it up, lights went on, directionals, hazards, and break lights will not go on UNLESS the trailer light itself is taken off the trailer. We are thinking a grounding issue.
We pulled our 2011 F150 up to another trailer, same issue, only the running lights works.
Two days ago a old single axle trailer worked fine, break lights, directionals, everything.
When the owner put electrical tape around the bolts that connected the lights to the trailer the directionals worked, then they tightened up the nuts it touched the metal part of the trailer, it (meaning directionals, hazards, break lights) stopped working, (but the running lights stayed on). Are we tripping or what the heck is going on here?
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Will be towing about 5k to Fla. in march from Chicago area. have 2011 F150 SCrew 3.73. max tow package , ecoboost. Wondering to use tow/haul all the time or just using it in the hilly parts of Tenn. Have heard that running in overdrive will mess up the tranny.
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