This is Just an FYI. I replaced the plugs in my 2011 F-150 3.5 Ecoboostwith 50,000 miles. I had a miss under heavy acceleration. Turns out the plugs had a gap over .090" and the side electrode was burned. Replaced them and all is well.
View 8 RepliesMy 2010 5.4 F-150 Lariat 2WD truck has 130,000 Miles on it and the gas mileage took a dive from 16.5 to 15.2. I'm over due to change the spark plugs. Are there any secrets or tricks I should know about before I get started changing them.
View 3 RepliesOk so besides intercooler condensation causing misfires this is the #1 reason for misfires on this engine. Any misfires on this engine has great potential to damage the catalyst and should not be taken lightly. As many know by now boosted engines are hard on the plugs be it iridium platinum whatever and you may find the need for new plugs by 50k miles. More so now as many are coming in with carbon tracking as this one had. In this video I walk you through the procedure to change out plugs on these engines with the revised plugs, gap specs and TSB that have all come out recently.
Ford F150 3.5L V6 Ecoboost Misfires: Spark Plug Replacement - YouTube...
I have a 2011 Escape Limited 3.0l V6 AWD. Did a spark plug change at 115k miles for the first time per dealership recommendation. Got new plugs from dealership.
Was pretty cut and dry to replace. Did not check gap on plugs as was told they are not adjustable per dealership. Put pea sized amount of dialectric grease in the COPs and then fitted the plugs into several times with a little spin to coat evenly. Installed plugs to 11 ft.lbs. and reassembled all components without issue. Installed them one at a time so as to not mix up the coils.
I did break the 90-degree nylon quick disconnect for the fuel line that connects to the fuel supply manifold and had to purchase a new hose assembly. Reinstalled without issue.
Went to start up and engine cranks (hiccup sound) but does not turn over. The sound is weak and not a throaty crank like an engine should give. Check engine light flashes on dash and issues a frequent tone also.
Wondering what the issue is? Are they the wrong plugs? Improperly gapped? Possible the fuel line did not pressurize and there is no fuel getting to the plugs for ignition? Kind of stumped as it was a pretty cut-and-dry replacement (if such a thing is possible).
I am thinking of replacing the rear 6 lug axles with 7 lug axles on the rear and new 7 lug hubs along with 7 lug rotors and wheels...
View 14 RepliesGot a 2013 F-150 with a start problem after warm. If I let it sit with battery disconnected it will start up. When it will not start it acts like a no spark issue.
View 1 Repliesis there a diffrent spark plug socket too take out the plugs on the 5.4 3v motor cause i tried a socket i thought would work but i wouldn't go in the spark plug hole like what gives
View 4 RepliesI just inherited a 2012 F150 Fx4 Super Crew. Nice looking truck, but the wheels are stock 17" steel. Need upgrading to nicer looking wheels/wheel covers w/o breaking the bank?
View 14 Replies2014 lariat crew w/10k miles...let son drive it on date & somehow came back with snapped off turn signal/multi-switch...had local mechanic replace-now button on end doesn't activate wipers or washer spray (actual wiper switch works, as does dimmer function & signals). Mechanic rechecked & says all ok but switch may need to be programmed by dealer...really?? Seems like it would b plug-n-play. Why just the washer function wouldn't work?
View 1 RepliesI was doing a tune up of my 09 camry with an 2.4L engine due to a rough idle problem i have been having , and I noticed a lot of orange colored dust in one of the 4 spark plug tubes, I mean a lot of it while the other 3 were dust free. I tried my best to clean it out and inspected the spark plugs all seems to be fine. What could be the cause of the dust?
View 9 RepliesDo the 2010 5.4 motors still have any issues like the cam phasers or the spark plugs breaking upon removal? I'm looking at a 2010 F150 4x4 but I didn't want the headaches that might go with it since it has 80k miles....
View 14 RepliesI just bought an electric tongue jack for my utility trailer. Rather than mount a battery on the trailer, I bought a jack that has a 7 way plug, so you just plug into the truck in order to power up the jack. However! My '13 Platinum F150 appears to have a very smart 7 way plug. If I plug in the trailer, everything works fine on the trailer.
If I unplug the trailer and use my tester to check the power inside the 7 way plug on the truck, there is nothing. So when I plug in the jack, which only has 2 tabs on it's 7 way male - positions 4 and 1 (positive and negative since they are red and black) it does not turn on. I wired direct to my battery from the jack 7 way plug and jack works fine.
So I'm guessing that the 7 way plug is not powered up until it senses a trailer is plugged in somehow? Is there a way to override this? Also the 4 flat on the truck was dead when I put the tester to it as well. Maybe same thing? If not, I'll have to hard wire the jack into the trailer wiring harness as a work around I suppose.
My truck has a similar rough idle and I decided to investigate. What my plug gap was supposed to be as I didn't have access to my owners manual at the time. The specs I was given (.041-.047) is what I followed and recapped my plugs .045. The idle improved a great deal.
Now I was wondering and finally got around to checking my owners manual after I read somewhere that the gap for the 5.0 changed between 12 and 13 model years. What I found in my owners manual is that the gap I'm supposed to have is from .049-.053. My plugs were out anyway at .057. I will leave them be at .045 but am wondering why the change from .041-.047 on the 2011 model years to .049-.053 on the 2012+ model years? I assume the engine hasn't changed, so am curious of the thought process.
I have added the upfitter switches to my FX4 but used all of the switches for accessories. Need to start using the round buttons but don't know the plug number/pigtail for round buttons.
What the plug number/pigtail is for the "off road/hill decent" round buttons on the raptor upfitter console? I don't want to spend money for the harness when I only need one connector. The tiny pins on the switch are too small.
On 2010 150 had running lights for approx 1 year on both 4 wire and 7 wire then none. Nothing changed, Checked fuses, all ok. Checked on back side of plug, nothing. Everything else works.
View 14 RepliesMy 2011 3.7 CC seems like it is missing at speed.
If I am around 75 or so in 6th is vibrates, but downshifting to 5th or 4th seem to take it away.
I am going in tomorrow and have the tires rotated and balance, but I think it is somewhere else. It has a little over 42,000 miles
2011 Lariat. My key fob is starting to come apart, and dropping it didn't work any.
View 7 Repliesi have a 2011 f150 xlt with the 5.0, my 4x4 does not lock in very well, i practically have to come to a stop and wait for it to engage fully or it starts banging and slipping like its trying to engage and not quite making it. are they still suppose to be on the fly? is there any kind of maintenance that i can do to them to have them work better? are they still locking hubs or did they change something?
View 4 RepliesHow do you remove the pcv valve on 2011 5.0l. I don't want to break it .
View 1 RepliesI bought a 2011 F-150 a year ago. Today was I driving my truck like usual and for some odd reason, it revved up to 3500 and then my truck shooked like I hit a big pump. I'm debating whether I have a faulty transmission or something. I barely touched the foot pedal. I wasn't evening barely putting any pressure on the accelerator and for some odd reason, it revved up that high and something shook my truck. I know a little bit about vehicles, my transmissions are not my thing. I'm gonna' take it in Monday morning to work.
View 1 RepliesWe purchased a brand new 16' tandem trailer last night. Plugged it in to my husbands 2011 F150 and hooked it up, lights went on, directionals, hazards, and break lights will not go on UNLESS the trailer light itself is taken off the trailer. We are thinking a grounding issue.
We pulled our 2011 F150 up to another trailer, same issue, only the running lights works.
Two days ago a old single axle trailer worked fine, break lights, directionals, everything.
When the owner put electrical tape around the bolts that connected the lights to the trailer the directionals worked, then they tightened up the nuts it touched the metal part of the trailer, it (meaning directionals, hazards, break lights) stopped working, (but the running lights stayed on). Are we tripping or what the heck is going on here?