Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2011 - Need Hot Wire When Ignition On Only
Jun 27, 2015
On wife's 2011 ESCAPE, we want to install another "cigarette lighter" type female power port that is live only when the key is on. (to power up the GPS without having to unplug/replug it every time.)
Any best place to tap into an easily accessible wire that is hot only while vehicle is running---maybe off the power window circuit, and what color wire am I looking for & where without too much disassembly?
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I have done some searches and think I've found the relevant threads, but I want to get confirmation from people who have actually done it.
From what I've gathered, I should be able to leverage the incoming ignition power that goes to the rear view mirror, which is supposedly the blue wire. From there I can cut the power cable in my dashcam and splice it into the blue wire connection to power the dash cam?
I've heard some people also wire it through the headliner/A-piller and to the relays, but I'd rather take the shortest route.
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I purchased a trailer recently and decided to change the wiring from 4 wire to a 7 wire. I matched up one for one and blew a fuse on the truck. Looking at my manual there are a number of fuses related to the towing or trailer hitch wiring.
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Installing a remote start and everything says to use gray/yellow, however that wire only gives a pulse when the lock buttons on the doors are used, not on the fob. I need the wire that gives a negative pulse when the lock button on the fob is pressed.
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When I pull the tail light out of my 12 F150 there is a blue/wht wire and a black wire going to the back up light. I assume the blue wire is the positive and black is the ground. Is that correct? I also posted this in the wiring section.
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Pulled up to customers home and took key out and engine kept running. Disconnected battery and engine and aux power were off. Connected battery and power came on as if the key was in. I tried putting key in ignition and turned with no change in power or engine trying to turn. Disc battery, put key in, connected battery then truck started. Last stop took key out and disc battery engine stayed on. Several prayers and repeated steps above made home.
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My wife and mom went to the dealership today to get remote start installed on their F-150's (bad decision not to do it from the factory). Both trucks had it installed, and it starts the truck fine, but the problem is as soon as they put the key in the ignition to turn it to "Run", the truck shuts off and they have to restart it. The tech says thats "Normal", and it's because of the "My Key" feature.
Neither of the trucks have had any of the keys set up to be "My Keys", all are exactly how they are from the factory. Something doesn't seem right....
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Noticed on my wife's 2013 F150 that when you put the key in the ignition without turning it on that the dash lights will flicker on/off and the easy out power seat will move back and forth if you wiggle the key. My SD did the same thing while under warranty and the dealer replaced the ignition switch. How hard of a repair is this to do? It doesn't do this with the key in the acc or run position.
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I just went to try and go pick up some dinner for my wife and I, hopped in the truck, key in the ignition, turn the key, let the computer go through the welcome screen, saw a very brief unknown image then main screen image. Turn over the truck and it just cranks. While cranking, it gives me a tpms failure, a service advance trac an engine overheat(even though it was roughly 24hrs since it last ran), and the wrench, of which those are what I remember but not necessarily in that order. I tried to plug in my dash boss to pull the codes, but no dice. I guess I an just curious what I might be looking at.
Background on the truck: 2012 screw with eco boost, 42,000mi, ford esp, and 99% trouble free.
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I've got a bit of a weird problem with my 2012 F150 XLT Supercab w/ 5.0 and 4x4. My airbag light flashes on once ignition is in the "ON" position then turns off and back on making it code 1-1 I believe but, I cannot for the life of me, find anything about this. Also, for some reason it only happens when it's above 66 degrees outside, the temperature barely gets above that until this time of year and as soon as I take it anywhere they pull it into their shop, which is cooler than outside, and the code disappears. I would like to see if I can solve this first without doing taking it to a dealer and have a huge bill. I checked all of the cables under the seats, the fuses, the battery and the airbag module under the center console and I cannot find anything that seems loose.
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My 77 F150 Ranger with a 400 in it didn't wanna start up at all. It wouldn't even crank or click like if the battery was dead. Then I tried again this morning and it cranked once then melted a red wired with I think a black or gray tracer, on the ignition. (I put a new solenoid on a couple months back and the positive also melted a bit by the solenoid but didn't pay any attention to it.) I'm just wondering what could be wrong with it to make it do that and how to fix it. Also when I went to put gas in it (it's on a slight hill making it lean to the driver side) it was empty but no fuel would go down the filler neck, then it started to gurgle and spit it out some. I was told it was vapor lock but I thought vapor lock happens when it's hot.
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My 2011 3.7 CC seems like it is missing at speed.
If I am around 75 or so in 6th is vibrates, but downshifting to 5th or 4th seem to take it away.
I am going in tomorrow and have the tires rotated and balance, but I think it is somewhere else. It has a little over 42,000 miles
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2011 Lariat. My key fob is starting to come apart, and dropping it didn't work any.
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i have a 2011 f150 xlt with the 5.0, my 4x4 does not lock in very well, i practically have to come to a stop and wait for it to engage fully or it starts banging and slipping like its trying to engage and not quite making it. are they still suppose to be on the fly? is there any kind of maintenance that i can do to them to have them work better? are they still locking hubs or did they change something?
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How do you remove the pcv valve on 2011 5.0l. I don't want to break it .
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I bought a 2011 F-150 a year ago. Today was I driving my truck like usual and for some odd reason, it revved up to 3500 and then my truck shooked like I hit a big pump. I'm debating whether I have a faulty transmission or something. I barely touched the foot pedal. I wasn't evening barely putting any pressure on the accelerator and for some odd reason, it revved up that high and something shook my truck. I know a little bit about vehicles, my transmissions are not my thing. I'm gonna' take it in Monday morning to work.
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We purchased a brand new 16' tandem trailer last night. Plugged it in to my husbands 2011 F150 and hooked it up, lights went on, directionals, hazards, and break lights will not go on UNLESS the trailer light itself is taken off the trailer. We are thinking a grounding issue.
We pulled our 2011 F150 up to another trailer, same issue, only the running lights works.
Two days ago a old single axle trailer worked fine, break lights, directionals, everything.
When the owner put electrical tape around the bolts that connected the lights to the trailer the directionals worked, then they tightened up the nuts it touched the metal part of the trailer, it (meaning directionals, hazards, break lights) stopped working, (but the running lights stayed on). Are we tripping or what the heck is going on here?
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Will be towing about 5k to Fla. in march from Chicago area. have 2011 F150 SCrew 3.73. max tow package , ecoboost. Wondering to use tow/haul all the time or just using it in the hilly parts of Tenn. Have heard that running in overdrive will mess up the tranny.
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The fuse was not blown. The bus connection for that fuse was burned from a high capacitance caused when there is a loose connection.......period.
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2011 f150 - Wiper is in off position, but continues to operate intermittently.
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I have a new issue now with my 2011 F150 FX4. The sync stopped working the day before. I got nothing when I pushed the Media button. No phone, directions, menu. Then it started working for a while yesterday then stopped, Later on it started working now it nothing.
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