I have a 2011 F150 FX4 Ecoboost w/ 37K. I recently had to have the master cylinder replaced along w/ all my brake pads because it was not disengaging the calipers properly, so all of my pads were prematurely worn and cracked. I was wondering, it seems like this shouldn't happen on a truck this "young".
View 1 RepliesJust wanted to report another F150 with the blown master cylinder problem and had a few questions regarding the issue. Its a 2014 Screw EcoBoost with about 12500 miles located in Michigan.
I was driving last Friday (6/19) when the low brake fluid dash lamp illuminated. I made it to my final destination, when I began to back into a parking spot the brake pedal dropped to a position about an inch off the floor. Parked the truck and popped the hood to find almost all of the fluid gone. Only having fluid in the rear axle reservoir of the brake circuit. Pulled the vacuum sensor and the booster is filled with fluid..
Called Ford, had it towed to the dealer and its been sitting there ever since.... They have no loaners and have not even looked at it yet. I'm going to assume no parts are in stock just like all of the other threads I have read on here about this issue.
A few questions I have for those of you who have had this problem or have knowledge about it.
1. How long did it take for your truck to be repaired?
2. When the master cylinder seal leaks all of the fluid into the booster and the booster is pulling engine vacuum; does this mean that brake fluid is then pulled into the crankcase of the engine?
Really looking to get my truck back soon cause I love driving it! But the '74 F250 will have to do for now ....
I was wondering if there was how to on doing the MC replacement? The brake pedal goes to the floor almost every time you press on the brake?
View 1 RepliesI'm in the process of replacing the clutch master cylinder in my 99 F250 7.3L. I've got the kit that includes all the components already pressurized in a complete assy. Anyway, I know that in order to remove the clutch pedal component, (the part that stick's thru the firewall) your supposed to be able to rotate it about 45deg and it should pull free from the piston attached to the clutch pedal. But, what happens when it will not come free? I've already got a new replacement kit and I can see where that stainless rod inserts into the plastic component, but I can't seem to get the one on my truck to release?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 F-150 Super Crew and have had to replace the back up camera due to a malfunction. Once the dealer replaced it under warranty I was no longer able to get all the options that the previous camera had. Since then the 2nd camera went bad and I just had it replaced again. This new camera still is missing 2 of the options the original camera had. The dealer now tells me that they must have been deleted off the software on the replacement cameras. They were unable to verify that through Ford though.
View 6 RepliesI replaced the master cylinder 2 months ago and now every now and then the rear lock up for a second. its only happened a couple of times. Pulled the wheels and everything is in place with nominal wear with clean drums and rotors. Am at a loss as to why this is happening.
View 1 RepliesThe heater control knob cracked on my 2011 Ford F150. Where I can get a replacement and how to take that off?
View 2 RepliesA few years ago I (for him) replaced all 4 calipers, rotors, pads, etc....things were good. Just recently he replaced his Brake Booster and Master Cylinder (not sure what led to this), but long story short everything is back together and he doesn't have brakes.
My GUESS is that the system needs a good flush, new fluid, etc....
My problem is I'm unsure how to bleed the ABS system. A few google searched indicate I need a scan tool, but is there another way? Can I jump something.
So my question, how do I completely bleed the brake system on this truck?
92 Regal Custom, 3.8L .... I need to replace master cylinder on mother in laws car. How do I determine if it has the Durastop brake system or not?? Any factory code in glove box or trunk, if so what is the code to look for?
View 2 RepliesI've been chasing this misfire for about two months now. I have changed all eight plugs, changed the coil and even change head gaskets. After all of that I'm still getting a misfire on cyl3 code. I've inspected the resistance from the fuel injectors, they are all about 12ohms. What else do I need to check before I sell this thing off?
Background: It has just under 130k miles and I have had zero problems until it got cold this season. Once the mornings hit about 20F degrees I had a check engine light come on. Maybe a little bit of a shake at first but after it warms up it drives excellent. It has never sounded like there is a misfire, it has always ran smooth.
Ok so I have the 2009 f150 4.6l 2wd. Have random misfire codes. Horrid idle. I replaced all of the spark plugs, coil packs, and even the injectors on 1/3/4. Still codes nothing is better. I'm thinking maybe an intake manifold leak,? I see no real signs but I do hear that little pop pop pop. Now I have a gasket kit for it but I see you can order complete manifold kits with thermostat and gaskets on amazon for like 60 bucks more. The issue is I see none that fit my truck. Is it the same as the mustang? Hate to blow more cash as its adding up.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2006 f150 with the 5.4 with 150k miles and I thought it was originally an exhaust leak so had that checked then thought maybe the cats went back and had that checked and after that read up on all the IWE threads and decided to replace them. Replaced them and the actuator and the problem seems worse. Now the noise is constant will accelerating. It use to be intermittent but now it's all the time unless in 4wd or coasting. What the problem could be? I know the truck is 10 years old but in great condition, everyone is surprised it's as old as it is.
View 2 RepliesHad a slight boo boo today with my truck backing out of a garage - snagged the right side (passenger side) mirror on the g-door rail and snapped the ball and socket of the mirror.
Tried to search the net for a replacement mirror and not having much luck. In locating one. I found one site but they do not carry the painted version of the mirror just the mat-plastic finish.
2009 - F150 - Lariat - Stone Green color....
I have a check engine light on which diagnosed by Autozone relates to O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Sensor 1.
I realize sensor 1 is upstream before cat converter. However, I've received varying opinions as to which side is Bank 2, driver or passenger.
2010 F150 4.6 V8, produced in 5/10
I have a 2012 F150 5.0L that I bought used in 2014. Apparently the original owner had replaced the exhaust with a dual exhaust (converter to muffler to two pipes out of muffler), but didn't spend a lot of money on it (?) and it rusted out. My dealer--we have a pretty decent dealership here, and they've done my service for years--sent me to a local exhaust/muffler guy, who recommended that I go back to a single exhaust, and happened to have an OEM setup that had come off of someone else's new truck. He put it on my truck, and so far all seems fine. (small town; bad service places tend not to survive, and both the dealer and the muffler shop are institutions)
I'm an older, single woman who has horses, so my truck is primarily for hauling one or two horses and hauling hay and feed and such. I want my truck to last--my previous one was a beloved 97 F250 7.3L diesel that I had for 17 years, but, while the engine will run forever, the peripherals were starting to worry me and it needed to find a home with someone for whom getting stuck on the side of the road was an adventure, not an major inconvenience. Anyhow--so, I'm a gentle drive, my truck gets serviced regularly, and reliability is my primary concern.
The new system is quiet. Really quiet. Coming off a diesel, I actually liked the bit of growl I got from the old system, and being able to hear my engine, but I didn't have the heart to say that to the nice gentleman at the muffler shop, and it's not a big deal. My concern is that I have no way of knowing what vehicle the thing came off of, and the guy said it didn't matter that much; it did fit on my truck, and he said it came off of a brand new F150, but it had a suspicious "CHEV" chalked on it ... (FYI, there is an additional resonator after the muffler--it was a bit of a tight squeeze between the spare tire, but it did fit)
So my question--should I be worried? How quiet should my truck be?? It is my understanding that the OEM exhaust on the 5.0L has a bit of growl to it, so I kind of doubt this rig came off of a 5.0. How generic are exhaust systems? What effects might it have on my engine? I trust my service guys, so I trust their recommendation of this muffler shop, but I'd like to hear other opinions, beyond "it will be okay ..." Are there any "buts" in this situation?
My 2010 F150 randomly feels like I'm driving over the rumble strips as well as a small jerk like there is a cylinder misfire. If keep it at constant speed it still happens, but under cruise control it stops. Even when load increases like going up a hill.
View 14 RepliesMy 2010 5.4 F-150 Lariat 2WD truck has 130,000 Miles on it and the gas mileage took a dive from 16.5 to 15.2. I'm over due to change the spark plugs. Are there any secrets or tricks I should know about before I get started changing them.
View 3 RepliesRecently, my CEL came on. I had the guys at Autozone read the code and they said it was the knock sensor on bank 2. I disconnected the battery to clear it but after 100 miles or so it came back on. Idling, my engine runs as quietly as it ever has (can't tell it's running if the windows are up) so I'm hoping that the sensor has gone bad. I can't hear any knock at any speed but the re-appearance of the light has noticeably affected the engine performance. Any link that even shows where the sensor is located? If I can find it, I can replace it.
View 1 RepliesI replaced my MC cap and gasket less than a year ago with a Dorman replacement and I'm leaking again, already. I don't want this to be an annual thing! Any good quality replacement? Is there any tip or trick to get the gasket to seal better?
View 9 RepliesOk so besides intercooler condensation causing misfires this is the #1 reason for misfires on this engine. Any misfires on this engine has great potential to damage the catalyst and should not be taken lightly. As many know by now boosted engines are hard on the plugs be it iridium platinum whatever and you may find the need for new plugs by 50k miles. More so now as many are coming in with carbon tracking as this one had. In this video I walk you through the procedure to change out plugs on these engines with the revised plugs, gap specs and TSB that have all come out recently.
Ford F150 3.5L V6 Ecoboost Misfires: Spark Plug Replacement - YouTube...
I have a 2013 F150 6.2L and it wont start. It was running great and when I drove it around the corner it just shut down no clunk no warning just bam shut off. I had a engine code P0355 ( which indicated cylinder 5 coil malfunction). changed the coil and it will not fire the engine code has gone away but it will still not fire. I changed the oil just to be safe and no metal shavings in it.... Turns over just fine but will not fire. I added more fuel just to be safe ( thinking maybe I had bad fuel but that didn't work either.
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