I have a 2011 xlt crew cab with the 5.0 v8.I have noticed a knocking sound at idle, it happens when the engine is cold or at operating temp. It doesn't do it all the time but more often than not.
View 14 RepliesWhen ever I first turn the key on to power everything up I hear a loud knocking noise which sounds like it is coming from the heater but goes away after 5 sec or less. Truck in question is 2010 f150 screw xlt with a 4.6
View 4 RepliesMy truck is a 2012 145'' scab Ecoboost. It doesn't have a level or any other suspension mods. I noticed a knocking sound while parallel parking this morning. It occurs while steering quickly turning the wheel 1/4-1/2 a rotation in forward and reverse . It is easily felt through the wheel and it makes a quiet sound. I have a crummy video I will attach below. You can hear the sound when the camera is in the cab. It seems like either balljoints or tie rod ends maybe?. I have an oil change in 1000 miles at my dealer so the timing is pretty good to bring it in.
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I have a 2011 XLT 5.0 V8 with 133,260 miles. I have extended warranty for the next 12,000 miles...which is great because I drive about 400 miles a month... Anyhow it runs great but for one small issue (hopefully) that has been intermittent.
She likes to idle slightly rough in drive at a stop or very low speed, and in reverse at slow speed. If I don't maintain the RPM it will stall and the low oil pressure light will come on, which I imagine comes on because of the sudden stall.
I first noticed this while backing into my garage in the driveway, It would fluctuate in RPMs and if I didn't maintain the gas it would shut off. I took it to the dealer and all they were able to tell me was the Tranny fluid was low and it would cause it to shut off at incline because a sensor isn't detecting fluid in the tranny. I thought this was weird but being as I have never owned an F150, I didn't know better.
It was fine for a little over a month and it started doing it again at stop lights and backing into my driveway. It has become frequent but there is no issue driving at speed and on the freeway. There is no stuttering or shaking and if it weren't for the fluctuating RPM at a stop and the stalling, it would be hard to tell if there was an issue.
All I can note is that there is a clicking sound under the hood, if I remember correctly the last time this happened I was at a 1/4 tank of fuel like I am now, I also feel like it may be a throttle body issue, or some sort of air sensor, I plan on taking it to the dealer but I figure I would get a more informed answer on the forums.
I also hear this is a common issue with the 5.0s... I purchased the truck in December and since then I have only put 250 miles on it.
I have recently purchased a 2011 F150 Ext cab with 3.5L ecoboost with 69k miles. I have no experience with these engines prior to now. I've always wanted a full size truck and after driving my 98 S10 for 17 years, I decided it was time for a new truck. I hope I made the right choice in going for the 3.5 instead of 5.0.
On to my question. I've noticed that the truck hesitates from a dead stop or anytime the RPM's are under 1k. It feels like its missing or running lean/rich during the spin up of RPM's. When I drive it hard, it does seem to subside for a little, and I've heard people say that they run better when run hard. I can attest to that, but is this hesitation normal for an almost 70k mile engine? I am getting 15ish MPG on almost all city driving since I have bought it, but I do expect that to change (job hunting and current commute is less than 2 miles each way).
The only time I get to open it up is when I go run errands out of the immediate local area or visiting friends and family. On one of those trips, before I noticed the hesitation, I attempted to accelerate from 60 to pass on the expressway and it bucked and resisted like a horse. It finally took off up to 80 and completed that journey with no issue but the check engine light came on for a bit. The check engine light went off when I shut it down and hasn't come back on since.
New ride: 2011 3.5L Ecoboost....
I posted about this back when I bought it back in Feb. and I thought the problem worked itself out but its back. When the temperature drops below 55 degrees or so, coming from the passenger side of the engine there is a chugging or knocking sound, more so when RPMs are high.
I had no issues with it all summer, but now that the temperature is dropping I noticed its back. Is this something I should worry about? What could be causing this? I had the same engine in my 07 and it never did this.
In the 2004-2008 forum there's a lot of topics concerning the camshaft phaser knocking/ticking issue but I don't see much in this forum. Was that issue taken care of by 2009 or do some still have the problem?
View 1 RepliesAbout 3 months ago, I bought a 2012 F-150 XLT 5.0 4x4. I bought it from a private party, a.k.a. without a warranty. It's a Ford, right? What could possibly go wrong??
Shortly after I bought it, I started noticing that it was knocking and tapping when it got up to operating temperature. Also, the idle isn't very smooth.
I have read through several threads here regarding Coyote engines with similar symptoms, and I have come to the realization that my wallet may be about to go on a diet.
Here is a video I made today, moving my phone to various places in the engine compartment, behind the drivers front wheel, and under the truck.
2012 Ford F-150 5.0 Coyote Noises 80k Miles - YouTube....
I realize that it could run a long time like this, but I sometimes take long trips and I really don't want to end up with engine trouble in the middle of nowhere.
Considering I don't have a warranty, and assuming the problem is out-of-round cylinders and/or worn valve train parts, what is my best course of action?
2012 F150 6.2L V8... I am at a loss and I know that loud knocking is not a good sign. Two days ago my truck's low oil pressure light started coming on and off, so I pulled over and immediately turned my truck off. I called a friend at a Ford dealership and he asked a mechanic what I should do. He said it could be something as simple as low oil, bad oil sending unit or maybe something serious. So, he said check my oil level if low top it off and see if that fixes the problem. It was low and I topped it off, but the light kept doing the same thing.
Here's my dilemma; my truck wasn't making ANY noises (knocking, whining, etc...), 2 days later which was yesterday I was en route to get new oil/oil filter changed and 24 miles later I'm in a turning Lane and it dies! Will not start, but it tried, so I did not try anymore. I was able to get it into a parking lot and left it for about 4 hours and went to check on it and it started right up and that is when the knocking noise started. I turned it off and checked the oil and the level reads full...
Just had my 2010 F150 in for a loud knocking noise when the truck has warmed up in drive and rpm up to about 800. I can't hear the noise when I disconnect the passenger side vtc selonoid. The Tech who worked on it has recommended replacing the motor. His troubleshooting on the ticket says he removed the coil from the number 4 cylinder and the noise he hears goes away. I just can't see that the motor is bad.
View 8 RepliesI have a 97 7.3 ... I've had it about 2 months now and now it wont start! It will start and idle for 2 seconds then start knocking and die! I had a buzz test ran on it and all is good. I also checked my Icp and checked my uvch harness with my multimeter. Before this it would run ok but seemed like it had a miss and a lack of power. On start up if i didn't have it plugged in it would smoke white smoke horribly. I am thinking maybe my IDM. I need my truck for work .... I had it hooked up to a scanner and it said faulty IDM.
View 1 RepliesSo earlier this week i took my truck in for a check engine light and a issue when i would pull up to a Red Light my truck started knocking like a Diesel motor. I quickly put the truck into neutral and the issue went away.
Is there an issue with the 5.4L motors mine only had 69000km and was properly maintained with an oil change every 8000km? 2009 F150 5.4L new motor after 69000Km
Just became the proud owner of a used 2011 F-250 Supercab, 6.2L. Overall the truck is great but it does have a-few things that need fixing, the most annoying of which is a knocking sound from the rear passenger side cab corner. Sounds like the exhaust vibrating and smacking up against the floorboard but that's not it. Everything seems tight, even the front suspension.
The only thing I can see that may be the cause is the rear passenger cab mount seems worn. I can rotate the bottom rubber portion without too much effort and when I feel for the top rubber portion all I feel is the metal cup on the top, like the rubber has collapsed and the metal cup is sitting directly on the frame mount.
So... how many cab mounts there are for the Supercab? I think there are two on each side and two in the front. All of the information & videos I've seen describe the locations for the crew cab. Also, is it possible to replace the cab mounts and not have to mess with the ones in the front? I hear those are the real buggers.
I've got a 2011 Sonata GLS with 83k on it.
Last night I was driving and started to hear a repetitive knocking sound. Stopped to determine if it was only when moving but it continued in park.
Checked the oil and apparently there was very little of it.
Don't know how I screwed that up but the mechanic heard the engine for 1 second and said I need a full engine replacement.
So, yeah I am ticked off and need to take care of it.
The VIN qualifies for a replacement under the recall but I don't know how the dealership will feel about the present engine condition.
If that's not an option, where do I even begin to look for a replacement?
So was sitting at an idle in park and truck starts knocking, horrific sound. So shut checked oil, good, went to work came out 8 hours later, started up still knocked. Pulled into drive hit the pedal, knock went away, stopped at red light, knock came back...... Truck has been parked for 3 days, still knocks at an idle but soon as tap the pedal and give fuel it goes away... Tried unplugging injectors one at a time to eliminate, still had knock.
2003 auto, 4wd, studded,deleted, coolant filter, sct with innovative tunes 108,000 miles.
So I drove my R kinda hard today (nothing more than i have in the past ) but i am now getting a knocking sound. It is faint when I am at idle and get a bit louder around 2-3k, then the exhaust over takes it. i checked and have oil.. but it is making the knock as if it were low.
View 8 RepliesLast Saturday I had the oil changed at the dealer on my 2011 Santa Fe Limited V6 3.5. As I left the lot, I noticed knocking and reduced power. I went back in and they took it out for a drive and it was gone. The engine had been turned off and back on when before they went out. I went out with them again and it was gone.
Today I drove about 10 minutes, stopped and turned it off for about 10 minutes, and when I started it again and drove off, the knocking was back. It lasted about 5 minutes in stop and go driving. I might have been imagining it, but it didn't seem to completely recover until I turned off the engine and started it again (about 10 minutes in).
What can I do to narrow it down? I don't know what it is, but when I try to think what the symptoms are like, it's as though a cylinder is not firing. So far it has only happened twice and the first time right after an oil change. It has 50,000 miles on it if that's relevant.
I have an '09 LS 460 AWD and there is a very unlike Lexus knocking sound at idle to maybe up to 20mph. best way I can describe is to imagine a diesel engine at idle, and dilute it substantially. subtle but clearly there. i read here in CL that could be due to valves or such, but dealer insists it is because of the intentionally designed "oversized fuel pump and fuel injector" and completely normal.
View 7 Repliesl have a 98 s10 with the "x" code 4.3l. While driving the cel started flashing and it lost all power. after got home i scanned the codes and revealed a MAF sensor error. replaced the maf sensor, which did not work. Then replaced the cap, rotor, and wires as they were burned through. This made the truck run fine when given gas, but makes a knocking sound at idle and stalls.
View 14 Replies1999.5 gls vr6 ... 113k on the clock
Timing chain hasn't been changed yet .. Has new spark plugs & wires ..
Water pump was replaced & pulleys look fine ..
No CEL .. Yes there's oil in it.
I get a knocking sound at idle and it has absolutely no rhyme or rhythm which makes me think it's not a valve or rod(wouldn't that make a constant noise?). The sound comes from the passenger side floor board. Only happens at idle, and if you rev the engine, it will go away. Even if you don't rev the engine some times it goes away then comes back. Sometimes I hear it when i pull up to a red light real loud & most of the time the engine purrs like a kitten. I even sat in the car and told my dad when it was making the knocking/ticking noise and he went all over the top and bottom end with a mechanical stethoscope & heard absolutely nothing. Am I missing something obvious?
Vehicle: 2013 Hyundai GLS @ 36k miles.
When my vehicle is stopped or in motion at low speed, if I turn the steering wheel, I hear a knocking out at the sound towards the front of the vehicle. How concern should I be?