Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2011 - Intermittent Hard Start - Cranks Like Normal But Doesn't Turn Over Instantly
Apr 12, 2017
I have absolutely loved my 2011 F-150 8 cyl since I bought it in 2013. I'm just now having my first issue...
For the past two weeks or so, I've had an issue with intermittently hard starting. It cranks like normal but doesn't turn over instantly. The longest its gone before starting has been about six seconds. Although originally happening only 10% of the time, its happening about 40% of the time over the past couple days. I had my mechanic take a look and the battery and starter all checked out fine.
Biggest problem was that it never did it for them making it hard for them to trouble-shoot. Thus far its always started, just takes an indescript amount of time in which to do it. The time of day doesn't seem to matter although afternoons in which I'm heading to lunch after being in the office for 3-4 hours seems the most common time.
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The fuse was not blown. The bus connection for that fuse was burned from a high capacitance caused when there is a loose connection.......period.
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2011 f150 5.0... When I turn the key it cranks for about 10 secs I don't hear the fuel pump come on what should I check first before replacing the pump....
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My Dad's 2011 Raptor has been having starting issues for about a month now. He turns the key, it turns over, but doesn't actually start; the same thing happens if he tries to start using remote start. It will start once in awhile on a 2nd or 3rd try, after throwing the shifter back and forth from Drive through Reverse several times and trying again, but not most of the time.
It doesn't happen all the time, but every once in awhile, and always at random times.
The first time was accelerating at an intersection a month ago. A second or so after hitting the gas, the engine died in the middle of the intersection. He took the key out, threw the shifter back and forth, tried again, and it started right up without issues.
Later that night, he tried starting it after sitting for over an hour (and had started it several times before without problems), and it failed to start, even after 7 or 8 tries. He had it towed to the dealer the next morning. He even tried starting it that morning in the dealer parking lot, without success. Several technicians apparently started it several times later that day without any issues! They didn't fix or replace anything, because they didn't find any problems. When he got it back, it worked perfectly.
A couple weeks later, it had the same problem at the gas station, after getting a full tank. My Mom told him that her truck (a nearly identical '11 Raptor) had the exact same issues several times in the past, and her trick was to let all the lights in the truck turn off, then try starting. He did that, and it worked!
Tonight, the same issue emerged. He did everything that had 'worked' in the past, and it still failed to start after about 10 tries. It's headed to the dealer on Monday, but what it might be?!? I also want to add that when it starts, it starts flawlessly, without hesitation; as if there wasn't a problem.
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I have a 2009 Corolla 1.8L. It turns over but won't start. I don't hear the fuel pump when I turn the key on or when I try to start it. There are 3 EFI fuses, and all of them are good. There doesn't seem to be an EFI relay (correct me if I'm wrong). I've replaced the fuel pump and it still won't start.
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I just went to try and go pick up some dinner for my wife and I, hopped in the truck, key in the ignition, turn the key, let the computer go through the welcome screen, saw a very brief unknown image then main screen image. Turn over the truck and it just cranks. While cranking, it gives me a tpms failure, a service advance trac an engine overheat(even though it was roughly 24hrs since it last ran), and the wrench, of which those are what I remember but not necessarily in that order. I tried to plug in my dash boss to pull the codes, but no dice. I guess I an just curious what I might be looking at.
Background on the truck: 2012 screw with eco boost, 42,000mi, ford esp, and 99% trouble free.
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Lately my backup camera doesn't turn off when I shift from Reverse to Drive, I have to put the truck in Park and then go to Drive to make it turn off. Is this a software update problem?
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Jumped in the truck this evening to go to the store and when I stared it up the left turn signal was blinking. Lifted the arm as usual to cancel and it does not cancel. Cannot get the left signal off unless I hold the turn signal up for the right signal. The right signal does not activate, but the left does go out as long as I hold the arm up. Let go and the left starts blinking again. Tried driving around to see if it would cancel and no luck. The bulbs are all good. I checked the relays in the fuse panel and they are good. Dang thing just won't shut off. It is a 2011 F150 SCREW Platinum w/5.0.
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Any solutions for the tranny/rear end hard shift from 1st to 2nd at low speeds on a 2011 f150xlt / off RD package with the 3.73 rear end/ elec lock. Had FORD do an update earlier and seems to be worse !!!!!. I will get a bang out of rear end when going over a speed bump and tranny shifts to 2nd. I am bringing back for warranty service and would like a some information to be educated before going.
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2009 f150 5.4l. 36 gal. After fueling it takes 4 or 5 cranks to start engine. Doesn't matter if its partial or complete fill up. after start has a little black smoke and and rough idle for a few seconds. Then runs fine with plenty of power.
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I went to start the car today and it will turn over but doesn't start. I tried to see if it had any codes but not codes present. What should I try? It has 82k and I am original owner. What does the 100k warranty cover?
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I have a 2000 V10 X and am having some starting issues.
Drove her to the store and she was fine. Went to drive home and she started to start, but instantly died. Then after that she wouldn't start at all...does not turn over. Had her towed home (which was fun...front wheels of flatbed came off the ground a little while loading her lol) and I have replaced the starter and the battery...still the same thing.
Thinking maybe the starter solenoid on the fender. Looks like a previous owner has installed something and ran power lines to the starter solenoid. Not quite sure what it is.
Here are some pictures:
Solenoid:
Extra box:
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I'm getting a scraping sound on hard left turns. I've only noticed it on a steep hill where I work going under five mph and making a sharp left turn. I got out today and it doesn't look like the tire is hitting anything. The shield in front of the tire is slightly looser than the right side, but can't see it making the noise unless something is hitting it. I've read some previous posts that indicated traction control possibly coming on. I have about 4,000 miles, 20 inch tires, and everything stock.
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If I'm stopped and turn the wheel for a hard left turn I hear a clunking noise and the check engine light comes on, will be taking in to the dealer on Mon.
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I have a 2009 screw with ~60k miles. It is used for DD and tows our small camper or my flat deck w/jeep.
The other day I noticed an issue when turning right. The wheel gets hard to turn and does not want to return to center. There is also a low speed clunk you can feel in the steering wheel/column itself.
The truck is at the dealer now and they said the rack needs to be replaced and there is something in the column they need to replace too. I have the extended warranty, so this is all but covered 100%. I just have a deductible to pay.
I have not hit anything with the truck, so I am not sure what caused these issues.
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I have a 2011 f150 xlt it didn't come with the mirrors that have turn indicators on them they have the dummy covers. Putting the indicators in there....
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My last problem was a leaky rear window. In my 11 F150 XLT, whenever I turn the Recirculate on with the main vents, my main vents seem to stop blowing. 2-4 work, but no 1.
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Ok, heres my issue. '11 crew cab f150, 4x4 5.0L. 108K miles Yesterday got in my truck to leave and it would crank, idle very rough with RPMs fluctuating then die. Did this several times til it stayed cranked long enough for me to press the accelerator to keep it cranked. Headed out down the road and it drove fine. Then upon accelerating I'd hear a noise like rocks in a tin can. Every time I accelerated it would do this. Drove to a mechanic. He drove it, heard it and told me to bring it back today because he was covered up. The rattle sound is similar to valves ticking, but worse.
I got up under it and looked for loose skid plates and loose exhaust components and could find nothing. Took it for another drive,engaged the 4x4 to 4H, drove it for a minute, went back to 2H and the sound was all but gone. Went ahead and filled up with premium gas. (had an 89 ranger that would only run on premium so thought i'd try it) Drove home. the noise was gone. Got up this morning. The truck hesitated to start. took three tries, then fired up normally. then drove it....no problems. no noise, everything normal. Don't wanna take it to the mechanic, if there is no apparent problem now. What's going on with my truck?
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It's a balmy -11 c here, my remote start wouldn't work... I go outside and try to manually start the truck and it turns over for 5 or 6 seconds with ZERO catch.... Fuel tank is at 1/4.... Added some fuel just in case... Nothing.... 6700km and it's dead in the driveway.
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I have a 2011 Ford FX4. Lately when I start up the truck I get a grinding type noise that seems to be coming from the 4X4 RCS module in the engine compartment. It stops after about 20 seconds or when I put the truck in gear and start driving. It happens every time I start the truck now.
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Bought the 2011 F150 Lariat used, no window sticker shows online, got a build printout from the Ford parts man. According to the build, it says "with remote srart".
Got one key and separate fob with the truck....just a black key, not the remote key. Had a second black key made at dealers expense and kept one remote from the trade in. All works well but.....Would like to have the remote start functional.
Dealer says buy the key, $140, plus cut and program. Lock shop says $190 for it all.
My question is if I buy the key and have it cut, can I program it properly in the truck....including remote start.....since I have two regular coded keys?
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