Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2011 - Hooked Battery After Magnaflow Exhaust Now Battery Light On?
May 7, 2011
Unhooked battery on 2011 truck. I unhooked mine today then installed my magnaflow exhaust. then i hooked the battery back up. And now my battery light comes on when i turn the key ahead. my sync doesn't work, i push the button and it won't say listening. and when i turn the key off the stereo won't stay on, it says it's shutting the system down to save the battery. i am going to take it in on monday to see if they can fix it. i just hope it isn't my fault. Any certain way of disconnecting it.
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External LED hooked to GPR
I have gone through around 7 alternators in the past 18 months. I currently have a new NAPA alt and new interstate batteries. Today I noticed that my battery light is on again. I also noticed that my yellow squiggly Glow Plug inrush dash light was on at the same time. However, I do not believe that my GPR was active BECAUSE... I have an external red LED that lights up any time my GPR is active. When my GP dash light came on my external light was off. I had just driven 26 miles and my truck is warm and the outside temp is around 70 Fahrenheit.
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Some background, my truck has been sitting in the garage for a good month and I haven't started it. Been putting in 6 days a week for over 2 months at work, 60+ hour weeks. Today, I start the truck, it immediately dies. Successive attempts same result, blue smoke out the exhaust. I kept it running by revving it up but then it dies again. It's the original battery, 5+ years old now. MM shows 12v at rest, drops while cranking. I put the charger on the battery for a bit while I came inside to ask this, it's on trickle 2A and its at a 7 on the dial, and it goes to zero when fully charged.
I've been thinking I'll need to replace the battery before winter, but I'm hoping it's just that since its discharged that's why it won't stay running? Any thoughts? I have had zero issues with this truck but having a company truck over a year now, it sees very limited action. 2010 5.4 with just a tick over 40K, oil is good, air filter is clean and free of obstructions. We do live in the woods and have critters that hang out in the garage, like squirrels and chipmunks but I'm not seeing any evidence of chewed wires that I can see. It's in the garage and using a droplight I don't see anything obvious. Maybe it's as simple as I have to take the work truck and get a new battery I hope...
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I bought a 2013 f150 last Saturday. It had battery corrosion on the positive side of the battery and on the battery cable end. The dealer agreed to replace the battery and the cable end which they did. Every thing was fine until today when the battery light came on. It stayed on for a few min and then went off. I had the battery and alternator checked at the local parts store. They checked out good. Why a light if everything checks out good?
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So, I get back from vacay and find my baby has a new issue.... the "battery" light came on just after I started it up after my 10 days away.
I can drive it seemingly ok, it did do some cool flashing and lost display and radio on one trip but now it seems not as bad.
I did a volt meter chack on the batt terminals and have 12.3 or 12.4 with key off and 14.9 with engine running. I turned on the headlights and rear defroster and get 14.6V on the terminals. 21.6A running to the main fuse block right by the rad,
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I did my biggest screw up today I went to hook up a new battery and didn't notice the terminals were opposite of the old one. I hooked up one and as soon as I touched the other terminal it sparked and the horn honked. I straightened it out but now the car won't start. I checked all the fuses and found one blown. Changed it still no good. What should I check now To all who come to this thread needing the fuse how to, it is on page 2. It is also on a gen 6 Camry 2009 le.
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I was checking the oil in my truck yesterday. I noticed the passenger side exhaust manifold was flaking rust. I mean flaking bad, big chunks coming off. Even the heat shield was rusted bad enough that it is barely holding on. Looks like in a couple years will need replaced. I have never seen this on my other Fords.
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I have a 2010 F150 Lariat Super Cab 5.4 L. I have been to the dealer. Is their any battery condition, low battery or alternator warning on my truck?
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Low Battery message in the display when the truck is turned off? Truck is an FX4 Supercrew 5.0 with 4000 miles. No issues with starting or charging, wonder if battery has a bad cell?
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I have a problem with battery drain with my 2013 F150 with ecoboost engine. If the truck is not used for two or three days it turns over very slowly or not at all. Charged the battery then drove it. I have checked the drain with all off and it seems to be 210 milliamps, then after about 10 or so minutes the drain drops to about 20mA. What the drain should be when vehicle is off for several minutes?
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2014 4x4 5.0 ... Drove my new truck (less than 1900 miles) to work in the rain. Alternator failed and battery warning on dash. Took truck to dealer, they confirmed and said not covered by warranty. Talked to ford, they back up dealers decision. They want a whole bunch of money to replace alternator and clean under the hood. What good is a 4x4 if it fails driving to work on an open highway?
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My new to my 2013 f150 needs the terminal replaced due to corrosion. Need the p/n for just the terminal not the whole cable.
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So I am receiving this notification when I turn my switch on to just have my radio on. I don't have a reason to believe that the battery is bad as I just bought the truck from a dealer last Thursday. Searches come up it is a known glitch in the safety feature that cannot be disabled and is happening with good batteries.
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Just returned from an 8500 mile travel trailer trip with my 2012 F150 with EcoBoost. Couldn't be happier with how the truck performed. Did discover, however, that my 7-pin connector does NOT charge trailer battery while driving. Wasn't a problem this trip, but could be an issue when dry camping (no electrical hookup). Is it a big deal to get my connector to charge trailer battery while driving?
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I have a 2010 F150. When parked for a period of time, it kills the battery. It flashes the lights on and off as though the remote were locking and unlocking the doors and after a couple of weeks there is not enough juice in the battery to start the truck. Ford has been unable to find the problem, they replaced the headlight switch which did not correct the problem.
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I am looking to add a new exhaust to my 05 F150 SuperCrew and am stuck between an MBRP and Magnaflow. I think I want to go with a S.I/D.O setup. Any opinions on either brand or are they basically the same?
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In an attempt to install HIDs on my 2013 f150 screw 4x4 I hated them and I broke my truck. I blew a fuse for the left headlight which I replaced.
My battery now reads 11.9v, I have no dash or radio lights and my truck won't even attempt to start. I can't exit park either. My door locks inside the vehicle work but my remote is useless. My headlights and dome lights work but that's it light wise.
Is my battery just too low and needs to be "reset"? If not my battery does it sound like a main relay or the body control module or similar?
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I just got a 5 inch turbo back Magnaflow stainless exhaust system installed on my 2007 F 450. The downpipe rests directly on the firewall and causes a horrible vibration and noise at times. I have been on the phone talking directly with Magnaflow trying to resolve this issue
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My battery went dead so I replaced with new. This did not fix the problem so I replaced the alternator. It's working now but the battery light stays on. I think I still have a problem.
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2002 Ford Focus SE with 130k miles on it. For the past 4 months the battery light flashes randomly while driving. The flashing and frequency of flashing doesn't seem related to anything I can tell including temperature, length of time the car is running, speed or any variable. Seems like it should be an alternator, but that was replaced less than an year ago and it also has a new battery. The alternator always checks out fine at the mechanic and it will never flash for the mechanic. It went 1 month with no flashing and suddenly it will now flash maybe 20 times in a 5 mile drive. Yesterday it just died at a stoplight with no warning, but then after shutting everything off it started just fine and the battery light didn't turn on for the 2 miles to home.
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The Issue: Dash display reads "Passenger Door Ajar", interior lights stay on, drains battery
Current Fixes I've completed
Sprayed electrical cleaner in all 4 door latch assemblies (didn't work)
Relubricated all 4 door latch assemblies with food grade lithium grease (didn't work)
Replaced passenger door full latch assembly (didn't work)
What is my next step? I have noticed that if I wedge the door lock button on the driver's side door into the lock position, the door ajar message turns off and stays off? I was thinking wiring or relay issues?
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