Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2011 - Hesitation From Idle - Missing Or Running Lean / Rich During Spin Up Of RPMs
Jun 25, 2015
I have recently purchased a 2011 F150 Ext cab with 3.5L ecoboost with 69k miles. I have no experience with these engines prior to now. I've always wanted a full size truck and after driving my 98 S10 for 17 years, I decided it was time for a new truck. I hope I made the right choice in going for the 3.5 instead of 5.0.
On to my question. I've noticed that the truck hesitates from a dead stop or anytime the RPM's are under 1k. It feels like its missing or running lean/rich during the spin up of RPM's. When I drive it hard, it does seem to subside for a little, and I've heard people say that they run better when run hard. I can attest to that, but is this hesitation normal for an almost 70k mile engine? I am getting 15ish MPG on almost all city driving since I have bought it, but I do expect that to change (job hunting and current commute is less than 2 miles each way).
The only time I get to open it up is when I go run errands out of the immediate local area or visiting friends and family. On one of those trips, before I noticed the hesitation, I attempted to accelerate from 60 to pass on the expressway and it bucked and resisted like a horse. It finally took off up to 80 and completed that journey with no issue but the check engine light came on for a bit. The check engine light went off when I shut it down and hasn't come back on since.
New ride: 2011 3.5L Ecoboost....
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I noticed difference in smoothness of gas pedal recently, I have an sct x4 tuner and it shows the short term fuel is 1.25% on idle. Does it mean rich or lean?! And what is the solution for this symptoms!
2000 5.4l xlt
Note : cold start runs fine, goes hesitant when warm, furthermore I have changed the temp. Sensor....without any difference.
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How much boost can you push on the stock turbo without it running too rich or lean?
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97 shortie. 3.0 245,000 miles. I've already cleaned the throttle body and the idle air control valve. Throttle position sensor reads 5 volts, good ground, and a smooth voltage increase from idle to wide open throttle and back down. Which of these codes is most likely to cause erratic idle? Mostly in the morning.
P0340 Camshaft position sensor.
P1443 Evaporative purge flow sensor.
P0401 Insufficient EGR flow.
P0171 Air/fuel ratio is too lean or rich for PCM to correct.
I doubt it's number 1, and number 4 seems too general to be any use. I'm leaning toward number 3. Seems I read somewhere that the tube from the exhaust gets plugged up. This started when I disconnected a plug from the blue air bag box to get rid of that beeping. Coincidence?
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I just bought an FX4 and pick it up tomorrow. When you are in 2wd does the whole front end spin like the axles? Or does only the wheels spin when you are in 2wd? Reason I am asking it seems like with chevy the whole front end spins in 2wd.
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The truck always ran perfect till two days ago. went to start it in the middle of the day , it would barely start, when it did it was missing bad. then seemed to clear up a little after about 30 seconds but still missing. they thought they got some bad fuel. so they dropped the tank cleaned it all out and got new fuel, no change.
Him and a so called mechanic "kid from fire stone" played around switching coil packs around from the injectors with no change. He tells me that the two front cylinders , one on each side are not firing. that those two spark plugs are coming out fuel soaked after running the truck. He thinks it dropped a lifter or push rod popped out of place.
I took my A/E over and came up with codes p0106 - map sensor, and p0135 - 02 sensor. i cleared them and started the truck, shut it back off ran codes again. He also said they pulled the 02 sensor and it still ran the same.
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I have a 2012 4x4 EB CC. In 6th gear, on the highway between 1200-1700 RPM's, during a slow acceleration, it feels like it is missing or shuddering. It is most pronounced going up a hill, and/or towing something. As soon as you get above about 1700, it goes away. Rig needs to be fully warmed up (not just the engine, but tranny/drivetrain). Needless to say, this is generally from about 52-65 mph, which is most highway (not freeway) driving I do. At times it's so bad my wife says it's time to get a Chebby.
Had it in about a year ago, couldn't duplicate it. Took it in this last week. Did the TSB on the plugs, and was told that would fix it. It didn't. Took it back in; they couldn't duplicate the issue. Rotated the tires hoping that might do something. Took the head service guy for a ride, and made it happen; it was very obvious then. It seems like the tachometer should bounce or shudder a bit when it's doing it, but nothing. It's going back in on Monday to see what they can do.
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2011 XLT 5.0 Coyote. Truck has a performance problem - it's missing almost unnoticeable at idle, but it's obvious (if you care to notice) when you hold the throttle barely open. Idle seems smooth, but if I hold it at about 1500 rpms, it most clearly and definitely is missing.
However, since there are "no codes" and since mode shows "no misfires". This really manifests itself when I'm towing a 6k pound trailer and the truck can't pull it up a 2% grade unless I drop it into 3rd gear. Of course, if I drive it like a race car it's a beast. But I can't leave rubber at every red light, especially when towing.
Fuel trims look fine (ST bounces between -4 to +4, LT sits right at +0.5). Cleaned the TB. Cleaned the MAF. Brand new Motorcraft plugs gapped at .045. CHT sensors read 205 on one bank and 198 on the other. Coolant sensor seems find. Haven't done a voltage test, but TPS data in the OBD seems smooth.
How to test the coil packs (neither does Ford). They want me to replace all 8, but I'm not doing that unless I can see real evidence a coil pack is bad.
I'm no novice however I'm losing my mind that "everything is normal" yet the truck so clearly has a problem. This has been going on for months and I'm at my wits end.
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My 2011 F150 5.0 was bought used a year ago, and ran like new. A few months ago, several things started acting up.
* clicking at idle. Just a tick-tick-tick-tick kinda like a diesel. I swear it just started, but the dealer tells me it's "normal".
* Oil - I'm "losing" about a half quart a month. No leaks. 1500 miles after a change, it's dingy. (not dirty just brown) Dealer tells me it's "normal" that these trucks consume a little oil and that it will get dirty.
All that I could ignore but this is what bothers me:
The truck seems to struggle, mildly, to maintain speed on hills. It'll drop to 1k rpms before downshifting. Just a pig. Of course if I stomp it to the floor I get a good response, but it is just sluggish and wimpy when driving "normally". Also, when maintaining speed, there's a barely noticeable missing/slipping happening. When I pull a couple thousand pounds it really struggles.
This is happening. Three dealers tell me there's nothing wrong with the truck. After pressing the first dealer they admitted they never drove the truck. The second dealer called me to pick it up because nothing was wrong and also admitted to not having driven it. After I demanded they drive it, they called back still saying nothing is wrong. "The computer would show it if there was a problem." The third dealer has it now, drove it this morning, guess what? "There's nothing wrong, maybe you can come and show us."
I cannot believe the industry has lost the ability to diagnose vehicles beyond what a computer tells them. Do techs not check compression or ignition or fuel pressure any more? Seems to me a valve issue for example could be the cause of all my symptoms, or fuel delivery, or weak spark, none of which would show up on the freaking computer.
Coyote 5.0 engine and the 6R80 trans.
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2012 F-150 5.0 Rough Idle Upon Start up - YouTube
Whenever I first start my 2012 F-150 with the 5.0, it idles rough and if I step on the gas it acts like either an injector is cutting in and out or it's missing. It doesn't really seem like a miss though, more like an injector/fuel issue. What it could be. If I let it sit and idle it won't go away unless I step on the gas and get it > 2500rpm or so.
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I bought a 2009 f150 5.4 with 150000 miles on it. I have a slight hesitation from idle so I want to clean the throttle body. I found several for the older f150"s with the horizontal throttle body but this 2009 has a vertical mounted one. I change the air filter and cleaned the MAF but didn't change anything. My wife's ford 500 had this problem and cleaning the throttle body completely cured it.
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I have a 2011 F250 6.2L Was working great until the other day when I went to hit the gas and the RPMs dropped and the truck shut off. I tried to restart which it would do for maybe a second and then shut down again. I checked the fuel line going to the top of the engine with the key switch on and there was not very good fuel pressure. so I thought my fuel pump was bad. After switching the fuel pump, the truck still starts and immediately shuts off. I checked the fuel line again and this time it is giving an initial burst of fuel for a second and then nothing. What else it could be?
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On my Ecoboost the engine light came on today. I scanned it and the codes were 172 and 175. system too rich bank 1 and the same for bank 2. What might be causing this? Will take it to the dealer next week.
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My 2001 Toyota Celica GT was put through a smog test and it was running rich on the idle only. It has been tagged a gross polluter and so i finally got a code reader to try to diagnose why. When i plugged in the code reader it kept stating no codes. It does not have a check engine light on and has not had a tune up for a while now. I am in real need of my car now more than ever.
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2010 F150 ... So I have the tick noise at rpm's 800-1000 at drive through, stops, etc. So I did research on it a few months ago and saw that it might be VCT's but should be able to drive. so I drove it waiting to save money and have it go to a shop. well this past weekend while coming home from work my oil light came on the pressure dropped to zero, I was on the highway so I drove about another mile to get off highway and once I got off my truck died. I had it towed to my house and I thought I blew my motor. So I started doing research here and found that the VCT's AND cam Phaser could be bad. so I replaced my VCT on driver side put it all back together it started and loud knock was gone. then after 5 mins it was back very loud knock!
So I shut it down and took apart the passenger side once I got the valve cover off I found the problem.... The bolt that holds the cam phaser in place snapped off and was riding along the camshaft. So I took that out and extracted remaining part of bolt. inspected my camshaft and it was really messed up. so I bought new Phaser and Camshaft. the camshaft just came in today and I am trying to put it back in. but the hole for the pin in the phaser doesn't line up and I cant spin the shaft to make it line up. should I spin the cam phaser? I marked the chain and the phaser is where it should be on chain, but with that bolt snapping off could that have thrown the timing off so my mark is no good? when I lay the camshaft in place it sits perfect and if I just move the phase over 2-3 links it will all fit together. Should I do that?
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My truck threw a check engine yesterday, P1151 and P1152. What could be the problem? 04 f350 with 5.4 with 142,xxx on her
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I just had my check engine light come on and checked the codes and they were P1136 running rich at idle and P1250 low fuel level. My fuel level is 3/4 full and I just installed a K&N panel filter in the airbox. While I was installing the filter I also cleaned the mass airfow sensor and then cleared the codes. The codes have come back after 2 days.
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I have a 2011 xlt crew cab with the 5.0 v8.I have noticed a knocking sound at idle, it happens when the engine is cold or at operating temp. It doesn't do it all the time but more often than not.
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Went to change the front brake pads on my 2010 F150 today which has 80,000 miles on it and is 2wd. Prior to taking the wheels off we noticed that it takes both hands grabbing the wheel and a significant amount of umph to get them to spin. As soon as you let go of the wheel it stops moving.
While changing the pads we didn't see anything that seemed misaligned or incorrect. The pistons compressed with ease on both calipers. However we did have to fight to remove the inside pad on both wheels.
After re-install wheels back on, they are still just as hard to try to spin. Is this normal if not what could be the problem and could this be affecting my MPG which i get 18.0....
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How can one get a too lean AND a too rich error, within 150 miles? I'm guessing the too rich code was what through the CEL last night. For reference, the only mod is APR stage 1. That will teach me to drive "spiritedly" with a Porsche Turbo S. (which sounded amazing at WOT btw..)
2 Faults Found:
000369 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1
P0171 - 001 - System Too Lean
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100001
[Code] ....
000370 - Fuel Trim; Bank 1
P0172 - 002 - System Too Rich - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100010
[Code] ....
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I have a 2011 XLT 5.0 V8 with 133,260 miles. I have extended warranty for the next 12,000 miles...which is great because I drive about 400 miles a month... Anyhow it runs great but for one small issue (hopefully) that has been intermittent.
She likes to idle slightly rough in drive at a stop or very low speed, and in reverse at slow speed. If I don't maintain the RPM it will stall and the low oil pressure light will come on, which I imagine comes on because of the sudden stall.
I first noticed this while backing into my garage in the driveway, It would fluctuate in RPMs and if I didn't maintain the gas it would shut off. I took it to the dealer and all they were able to tell me was the Tranny fluid was low and it would cause it to shut off at incline because a sensor isn't detecting fluid in the tranny. I thought this was weird but being as I have never owned an F150, I didn't know better.
It was fine for a little over a month and it started doing it again at stop lights and backing into my driveway. It has become frequent but there is no issue driving at speed and on the freeway. There is no stuttering or shaking and if it weren't for the fluctuating RPM at a stop and the stalling, it would be hard to tell if there was an issue.
All I can note is that there is a clicking sound under the hood, if I remember correctly the last time this happened I was at a 1/4 tank of fuel like I am now, I also feel like it may be a throttle body issue, or some sort of air sensor, I plan on taking it to the dealer but I figure I would get a more informed answer on the forums.
I also hear this is a common issue with the 5.0s... I purchased the truck in December and since then I have only put 250 miles on it.
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