Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2011 FX4 Ecoboost Not Shifting To 6th Gear?
Mar 14, 2011
I just picked up my 2011 FX4 Ecoboost with the 4.10 axle ratio. While in drive, the transmission will not shift into 6th gear until around 65mph. The rpms in 5th gear at this point are around 2300(ish). If driven with Tow/Haul mode on it will shift into 6th at 45mph and lock the converter. If traveling at a speed in drive (no T/H) where you would think it would be in 6th, lets say 50mph on flat ground, and you force the trans into 6th, either by using manual mode or T/H, and then return the transmission to normal drive mode it WILL hold 6th just fine with the converter locked and will even accelerate holding 6th.
If you accelerate more rapidly and the transmission downshifts, it will not return to 6th until forcing it to do so by one of the two ways above. I realize that the truck has adaptive learning strategies, but this doesn't seem right. It also has only 300 miles. Initially I had even thought that this might be some sort of break-in programming, but not anymore.
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Just got my 2011 Ecoboost FX4 on June 15th. For most of the time I had it, the in-dash LCD showed the 6 gears (on the right side of the display) for the trans & highlighted which gear it was in at any time (in Automatic mode, not select-shift). It disappeared & I can't figure out how to get it back?????? Nothing is listed in the manual.
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It's a balmy -11 c here, my remote start wouldn't work... I go outside and try to manually start the truck and it turns over for 5 or 6 seconds with ZERO catch.... Fuel tank is at 1/4.... Added some fuel just in case... Nothing.... 6700km and it's dead in the driveway.
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Need excess to a wiring diagram schematic for a 2011 f150 ecoboost 4x4 as I need to check what powers up the dash on the 2011 ecoboost as well as other wiring, I have one that had damage on the front end with the battery exploding everywhere, the truck did run and drive and the only difference between than and now was that it was water washed under the hood to clean off the battery acid, it did run shortly after it was washed, but after repairs it will not start, as in not turn over the starter and not power up the dash, its as if there isn't any power coming up to the dash as the dash will not light up or power up the gauges when the key is turned on, or it's not recognizing the key. We took it to a ford dealer to scan it and the tech said it would not link to the OBD scanner and said to check for power at the computer and if there was power that it might be the PCM, we have put in a new PCM, no difference, changed out the BCM (fuse box on right kick panel), no difference, we took the under hood wiring out/untapped it all and checked for damage, no damage, still nothing...
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Start from the beginning 2011 screw 4X4 ecoboost 46,000 miles, under wide open throttle and over 3,500 rpm I'm getting a misfire, diagnosis "I usually chicken out when I hit 80+ in 3rd". Misfire occurs in 1st, 2nd, and 3rd don't have enough road to try a higher speed or gear.
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New here, faithful f150 owner. Recently bought my first new f150, a 2011 supercab xlt 4x4 ecoboost. So far I've managed to put on 5600miles. I love the truck, but have noticed a few things.
1. Granted its a 4x4, but I have yet to see hwy mpg above 17.5 in 2 hi.
2. I can hear one of the turbos spooling up and stalling. Sometimes it'll happen at idle when stopped...Is this a common occurrence?
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2011 f150 super cab eco boost rear wiring?
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I have a 2011 f150 eco, i was having trouble with the turbos building boost and dumping to early, kept surging. I took it to my dealer so they ordered the deflector plate and intercooler, i took it in on weds and just picked it up today after they installed those parts and reprogrammed the computer with the latest calibration, this truck runs like a dog now, seems like it lost all the power it used to have? I called my dealer and am taking it back Monday for them to look at it again!
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A close friend of mine just traded in his '04 Tacoma with ~240k miles on a 2011 F-150 EcoBoost XLT Screw 6.5' bed w/ 3.73's. Truck has ~75k miles He went the EB route after I was having the tick/tap issue with my 5.0 (yes... a 5.0 guy talked someone into the EB ). Actually was my first time in an EcoBoost truck and MAN is that thing quick, especially with the 3.73s.
Truck is very clean inside and out and was well cared for. He did throw a blinking CEL light (assume misfire) after a rainy highway trip, having to tip into the throttle to pass someone. I had already mentioned that might happen so he knew to expect it.
We are planning to do anything "non invasive" to prevent the issue (e.g. no IC drilling). We plan to swap out plugs and boots. Looks like plugs should be Motorcraft SP534 gapped to .030 and boots are Motorcraft WR6135.
What are the torque spec for the EB plugs? For my 5.0, spec is 124 in-lb. Looking like 133 in-lb from a couple of sources. Is there anything else we should be doing to prevent a misfire CEL in the future? He doesn't baby the thing and the CEL only happened the one time so far.
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I have noticed over the past month that as I am maintaining speed, I will have a vibration or shutter. It sounds and feels like you are running over the cuts in the road on the shoulder. I can accelerate and make it stop but as soon as I want to maintain speed it will happen again. It does not feel like there is anything going on in the transmission. I have searched the forums and have found some similar problems but not exactly. Where should I look first? U-Joint, Drivesahft?
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For the last few months my truck shifts rough between 2e and 3e gear. However it only does this first thing in the morning, when I leave the house I speed up until the end of the street, then when I let go of the gas it'll rev up a bit and shift from 2e to 3e while making a big clunking noise which I can definitely feel ...
It does it sometimes very rough and sometimes just a little bit. I used to not worry about it but i'm starting to wonder if something is wrong with my trans. Could it have something to do with the slip yoke?
Truck: f150 2009 xlt 4x4 supercab 6,5' box.....
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I just purchased a 2013 FX4 with a 3.5 Ecoboost and it seems to start strange compared to other vehicles I have owned. With this truck when you hit the key (warm or cold engine) it sounds like the engine turns over for maybe 1-2 seconds before firing where other vehicles I have owned pop right off starting almost instantly.
Is this typical of the Ecoboost motor? I asked the dealer I purchased it from (large used truck dealer, but not a ford shop) and they said that they all do that...seems odd.
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2014 ecoboost Supercrew 4x4 20k miles
It happened at the most inopportune time. I was in the left lane of a two lane road passing a slow truck on a somewhat busy road and it happened. Shudder, loss of power, check engine light on, limp mode. I was next to the cab of the truck when it happened and had to slow and get behind him to pull over and shut it down.
Potentially a dangerous situation.
I rarely step on it, but when I do, I expect it to work.
I baby this truck, almost 18 mpg lifetime average for the 20k miles on this truck.
I took it directly to the dealer to get checked out.
Codes P0305 and P0306.
Checked for carbon tracking on plugs, none found.
Performed a power balance and coil stress test, no problem found.
Removed CAC deflector for inspection, no issues found.
Updated PCM to latest calibration.
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I came across this on the Tube. I asked the one who put the video up about it and he said that Ford has not been able to diagnose the issue yet and that he was very disapointed.
I'm not putting this up as an ''anti Ecoboost'' thread, but more just to see if any of you Ecoboost owners out there have seen or heard of this issue?
F150 Ecoboost Reviews You Must See this to Believe it - YouTube....
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So today I had a scenario where I had to pull out from a blind corner onto busy street. By the time I pulled out I realized an SUV was coming down the street fairly quickly. My immediate instinct knowing I have 360hp on tap was to put the hammer down.
I basically planted my right foot to the floor and held it there. The truck was already rolling out of the lot and turning into the street at approximately 5-7 mph. This resulted in the truck shifting hard from rolling in 2nd gear, down to 1st. I never drive this way so what I'm asking next is if this is normal or not. As I held my foot to the floor through 2nd & 3rd gears the truck seemed to blip the throttle at 4k then up-shifted from 1st to 2nd gear.
I have a stock Ford Raptor exhaust on my truck with the resonator deleted and when the truck blipped the throttle just prior to the up shift, the exhaust "popped" like a race car with an open exhaust downshifting from speed into an apex. Yes it sounded cool, but it was obviously cutting fuel or throttle for some reason.
So here is the weird part, out of curiosity I tried a few different scenarios just to see if something was wrong with my truck. *Note if I just mash the gas from a dead stop there is no fuel cut going from 1st - 2nd gears at WOT. The fuel cut only happens when I'm leaving out and getting on the gas from a turn.
If I turn off the traction control or advance trac and stability program then there is no fuel cut or 4k rpm, the truck just runs out to the 5600 or so redline seamlessly. Im just wondering if the traction control or torque management is really that sensitive or aggressive? I mean it was 70 degrees out and the road dry, plus I was already at a speed 45-50?? mph where a loss of traction would not be an issue so what gives?
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New to me 2012 Ecoboose Screw Fx4. CPO but the previous owner put a K&N intake and cat-back exhaust on it. Searched around but came up short...
When in cruise control the truck will vary RPM and seem to 'hunt'. For example: if 50mph = 1500rpm the truck will go down the road varying between 1300 and 1700 rpm continuously. Could the truck be in need of a tuner because of the parts?.
Maybe related: When first started in the morning if I pull out of the driveway and hold steady throttle to accelerate, the truck will do this as well, just surges.
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I have a 2012 EcoBoost with 10k miles on it. Got in a rear end / side collision and now the truck won't start. I have tried everything I can think of. The fuel pump sounds like it comes on and the dash display comes on just fine but it won't crank. Won't make any sound at all.
The battery is fully charged and all fuses have been double checked. I am willing to try just about anything right now.
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Towing my Jeep/ trailer today I was flagged to the side of the road and advised of a massive plume of smoke trailing me... As soon as I popped the hood, I was greeted with the unmistakable smell of burning oil and a smoke screen like something off James Bond. After the billowing smoke cleared, I was able to pull off the engine cover and found a massive puddle of oil along the passenger side intake manifold??? I cannot locate the source of the leak yet? The driver side is bone dry. One other odd thing, when the engine was running I pulled the oil fill cap and there was a significant vacuum - is that normal? I do have a UPR dual catch can with CSS if for some reason that makes a difference???
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I have a ecoboost with 80k on it. All of a sudden it started cutting out real bad while accelerating. If I punch the throttle it feels like the motor is trying to die. Could this be my fuel pump going out?
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My 2012 ford F150 Eco boost 3.5 l stalls when I am accelerating. What could be the cause? I have replaced the, Spark plugs, coils, air filter, oil, and cleaned the injectors.
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Experiencing sluggish throttle response on the EFI Ecoboost? I have had several incidents where I'm needing to change lanes fast and the response is a dead second or two before the motor catches up to the throttle position. Then, it rockets forward at full throttle to catch up. By that time it's too late to change lanes and I have to be on the brakes hard to keep from rear ending the guy in front of me. I'm coming from a carburetored Toyota Tacoma that was far more responsive (minus the power) then this truck. I never felt hesitant to jump on it and go. Now I feel like my life depends on waiting until I have all day to change lanes, make a left turn or pass a slow moving vehicle on a two lane road. Is this something the dealer can adjust?
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