Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2011 - Engine Shut Off At 600 Miles Only?
Jan 28, 2012
I traded in my 2011 Lariat last month because I had quite a bit of problems with it in the short time I had it. I also didn't care as much for the bells and whistles as I thought I would when I bought it.
I got such a good deal on a new 2011 Lariat Super Crew, that I traded. Shortly after getting the new truck, I had to take it to the dealer for two dents that I found the first time I washed it. I didn't see them when I took delivery because it was dark. I had not seen the truck before that because they got it from another dealer to get the color I wanted. I also had problems with the radio buttons on my steering wheel and the sirius button on the dash not working at times, damaged trim around the left side of the windshield, a discoloration the size of a nickel on the console that I noticed when taking delivery, and a ticking noise in the engine . After the truck was in the shop for 3 days, I get it back without anything being corrected. Parts had to be ordered for the console and trim piece.
I took the truck back in 10 days ago for the engine noise and for them to repair the dents that were there when I got it, along with more troubleshooting on my intermittent problems with the radio and steering wheel buttons. I get a call late yesterday afternoon with the verdict.....Ford says replace the engine due to something being wrong with the crankshaft.
I have to say, I'm pretty disgusted right now. I'm not so sure that I want this truck anymore because of all the issues I've had in the short time I've owned it. Service department at the dealer has been great, and the dealership has been talking about possibly getting me into a new truck. I'm just not so sure I want to try a a third truck. I've been a Ford man my entire life, but I'm disgusted with them right now. I certainly don't want a Chevy or a Dodge, so I don't know what I'm going to do at this point.
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So for some time now my truck(2011) has a problem when I floor it while entering the freeway or even down the road..
If im cruising around 30 or 40 and floor it, it down shifts and takes off nice.. but when it goes to change gears, it chokes, not sure how else to explain it, but once past that gear, the following shift fine if im still on the gas..
Normal driving shifts ok, and if im going say 50 or higher and do the same thing, it shifts fine.. so its only when going slower and I floor it..
It has 69,000+ miles on it
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2011 f150 - Wiper is in off position, but continues to operate intermittently.
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So last night on my way home I was stopping at a traffic signal and noticed a grinding noise from the drivers side front wheel. Upon further investigation I noticed a lot of brake dust on my wheel. I took it to the dealer thinking the caliper might be seized up. Well they looked at the caliper and said it was OK but the inside pad was worn to the metal. The other pads still looked good but since they have to replace the rotor they might as well replace all of them. The tech told me that being up north where they use salt corrodes the pads and doesnt allow them to move freely. He also asked me if I drive a lot of highway miles and I said yes, 30 miles a day. I guess from what he said is that the less they get used the more they will corrode up. So premature brake pad wear could be worse.
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I have a 2011 F250 6.2L Was working great until the other day when I went to hit the gas and the RPMs dropped and the truck shut off. I tried to restart which it would do for maybe a second and then shut down again. I checked the fuel line going to the top of the engine with the key switch on and there was not very good fuel pressure. so I thought my fuel pump was bad. After switching the fuel pump, the truck still starts and immediately shuts off. I checked the fuel line again and this time it is giving an initial burst of fuel for a second and then nothing. What else it could be?
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My 2010 has 11,000 miles on it. Was driving 75 mph down the freeway when the engine stopped. I was headed to the gas station as my low fuel light had just come on (at the time it died, 37 miles to E).
This is not my first Ford. I understand you shouldn't allow your tank to get that low because it is bad on the fuel pump (or whatever). But, I drove my 09 many times well below 37 miles to E. I have driven this vehicle below 37 miles to E. So, I was startled when it died.
It was towed to the dealership and their diagnosis was that it was out of gas. This does not make me happy... as I am aware that it was "low" on gas. But if the gauge is telling me 37 miles to E, then why did it stop running?
What good is a gauge/warning on my new vehicle if it is inaccurate?
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Started a while back and comes and goes. Only commonality I have found is the truck needs to be warmed up for it to happen and usually after a few hours of driving. The downshift from 5th or 6th into fourth, at times, produces anywhere from a light to violent clunk, feels like a typical tranny slip. It will do it while in cruise and it will do it if I don't have the cruise on. Can't figure out if it is going to be a tune issue or hardware.
It does it only downshifting into 4th from 5th or 6th, no other downshifting is a problem and usually the 6th to 4th produces the worst results. At highway speeds that is usually a shift from around 2Krpm to just over 3K rpm (6th to 4th) if it is from 5th it is about 2500 to 3K. Start from a stop and go WOT and there are no issues.
Having it in Tow/Haul or not makes no difference as far as I can tell. IT can do it on one hill and the next time be just fine or do it 2-3 hills in a row. After this last trip it will do it at 9K feet or at 60 feet elevation, didn't make a difference there either.
Another issue that may be hurting the computer is the truck originally came with the 235 tires, it now has 285's and the rear is only 3.31. I plan on going with 265's and maybe still a gear change to 3.73's in the future. I usually only notice this on long trips, first was a 1500mile hauling an ATV, second was last week during a 2500 mile empty. Although I have had it do it a few times locally. I figure those bigger tires can't be good especially with that high of a rear for the management system.
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2011 eb just turned 36k. Today on breezeway it shuddered like it swallowed a bird, and check engine light flashed on. Went to see customer left and light was off. Back on breezeway and shuddered on entrance ramp so this time I stayed into it so either there's a light that will stay on or just launch it and this time the dealer will have something to fix that they can diagnose. Check engine light is on its fine as long as I stay out of the pedal. Still have 8 months left on power train warranty but what am I looking at for a diagnose, there is definitely a problem now. What the dealership should see?
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When I press slightly on the accelerator just to get the truck moving and than let off the engine stays at the higher RPM typically just over a 1000. This only happens in drive not reverse and everytime I just slightly step on the accelerator. The truck only has 1K miles on it.
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Have a 2011 F150 with the 5.0. 91K miles. On startup-cold or warm-there is a ticking/tapping noise coming from the engine for about 3-5 seconds then it goes away. Happens on every single start. Sound like it's coming from driver side on top of engine, but hard to pin point.
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After I change my oil, I need to reset back to "miles to empty" from "% left on oil" warning. 2009 F150, XLT Supercab. I do not know how to do this.
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I have the normally aspirated 3.7 V6. The ownersd manual talks about the trucks computer telling you when the oil changes are needed.....But, at 6500 miles, bnothing has come through. I have not changed the oil yet on it. I feel this is a huge sin, but am not sure.....I was raised you changed the oil every 2-3 grand. But the owners manual on this truck says the computer will tell you when to. Should I just go ahead and change it?
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I wanted to change oil at 1000 miles on my new 2010 FX4. The dealer said that I should wait till 2500 miles or so because it still has the break in oil in it.
Does he know what he is talking about or should I change it? He did say he would change it and take my money if I really wanted to.
Maybe my thinking is still old school about changing the oil right away with a new engine.
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My truck just hit 110k on the clock, and i've never had the transmission fluid changed. Is this something that I am past due on changing or early? I don't know when it is supposed to be changed. If so is it something that you can do yourself?
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My wife and mom went to the dealership today to get remote start installed on their F-150's (bad decision not to do it from the factory). Both trucks had it installed, and it starts the truck fine, but the problem is as soon as they put the key in the ignition to turn it to "Run", the truck shuts off and they have to restart it. The tech says thats "Normal", and it's because of the "My Key" feature.
Neither of the trucks have had any of the keys set up to be "My Keys", all are exactly how they are from the factory. Something doesn't seem right....
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Brought my 2011 Limited (6.2 so old school hydraulic power steering) in for its 45K service, and they found a weeping high pressure line. $100 special order part + 3 hours labor. This seems a little soon (to me) for PS components to be failing already, or is this a common repair? They said I could leave it alone for now and monitor it but could lose power steering while driving (safety risk).
Any history of high pressure power steering line leaks at such low mileage/age before? Does 3 hours labor sound about right?
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First week or so, the alarm was fine. It would go off if the passenger didn't have their belt on. Suddenly, it wouldn't shut off, even after the passenger put their seatbelt on. We went through the procedure to just disable it. It worked for a couple days.
Then it started going off again. It only happens if I have a passenger in the front seat. (I have two children in the back but they are in carseats and if it is just them and I, we have no problems, but if my husband is in the passenger seat - we have problems).
We went through the procedure to disable it and it didn't work this time. After more reading I realized the same procedure to disable it, enables it, too - sooo we did it a 3rd time to disable it, again. It worked.
Same trip, we got back in the car -everyone is buckled up and IT GOES OFF AGAIN!! I just want it disabled, period. It drives me crazy.
(It will stop dinging about 10 minutes into the drive but most my trips are under 10 minutes so that means all the time)
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I want too hook up a switch to shut my headlights and brake lights off. I want to hook into the ground side. How big of a switch I need to use. I don't want them on when I am hunting.
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Experiencing cooling problems with a truck this new? My 2 month old supercrew 5.0 began over heating on a road trip last week. After about 400 miles of driving I see coolant temp start climbing until the overheating warning popped up. Pulled over, turned engine off, popped the hood and did not notice any obvious signs of overheating. Ended up waiting about 15 minutes, started truck up again, temp gauge reading 1/2.
Get back on the road, within 5 min temp starts climbing again, reaches ~ 3/4 then all of a sudden returns to 1/2. Continue on 10 min later temp gauge climbs from 1/2 to overheating quickly. I pulled over again same situation no obvious signs of overheating, but allow sometime to cool off. Started truck again temp gauge reads 1/2. Continue driving and temp gauge seems possessed, going from 1/2 to 3/4 back to 1/2 to almost overheating as I nursed it to the next dealer that I could find.
Dealer tech was able to mimic the problem and believes that coolant is not flowing properly. Thermostat replaced, water pump pulled and inspected, air bleed out of the system, all with no improvement. Now heads are being pulled/replaced to see if this solves the problem. Its depressing to have my new truck with 2,382 miles sitting under the knife at the dealer.
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My radio stopped working on my way to work. I heard a loud "pop" of static and then it shut off. I took it to the dealer, which had a hard time fixing it (they had it about 2 weeks), and they replaced all the fuses in the truck and it worked for about a week, but it just stopped again. Not sure what to do.
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I have a 2003 Lincoln Navigator with 156K miles. The engine shut down without warning. Towed it to the nearest Ford dealership. They could not find any codes from the computer, but note that compression was lost in the left cylinder bank. The mechanics said the likely cause is a cracked cylinder head and this known to occur in my model year.
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