Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2011 - Driver Side Board Takes About 15 - 17 Seconds To Retract After Closing The Door
Apr 30, 2015
I recently acquired a 2011 F150 Platinum. Nice truck! It has the automatic deploying running boards. They're nice but one problem: the driver side board takes about 15-17 seconds to retract after closing the door. This is way too long a time. The passenger side retracts after only 2-4 seconds, which is good. The dealer researched this to see if there is any way to adjust the driver side, but found nothing. I'd like the driver side running board to retract sooner after closing the door, like the passenger side.
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My drivers side door just started clicking when opening or shutting ...
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I purchased a new 2011 F-150 Lariat, Ecoboost, SCrew, 4x4 last weekend. I love the truck. It is very comfortable, the Ecoboost has been incredible, and the ride is very nice. I am looking forward to towing my ATVs after I hit 1000 miles.
Yet, I have one problem. I get an incredible amount of wind noise and wind whistle from what appears to be the driver's door. I read other posts about wind noises and wind whistles (e.g., bug shield), but they do do not apply to me.
I'm planning on dropping it off at the dealership this week for them to take a look at.
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I have notice maybe a dozen times in the last few weeks that my 2013 5.0 Screw downshifts at odd times. It usually occurs while coasting around 35-40 mph (in 4th gear and downshifts to 2nd gear) or around 50 mph (in 5th gear and downshifts to 3rd gear). Obviously when this occurs, the rpms jump and when I get into the gas, the truck takes a few seconds to accelerate because it first must shift into the next higher gear. What is causing this?
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2011 F150 Screw FX4 drivers seat squeaks. Its in the bottom. It happens when you go over bumps. It doesn't do it all the time, but you can sometimes make it stop by moving the seat forward or back.
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The driver side door of my 2009 f150 won't lock, not with the remote nor with the button inside the truck,also not when the truck goes over 20 km/h, however the driver side door works perfectly fine....
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I have a 2wd 2011 F150 90K with grinding noise coming from the drivers side front tire. Even though it was happening when coasting I thought it might be pads but they are real good. Turning the hub with no tire on it I can hear a little grinding. So I suspect bearings. I want to remove the hub but can't find out how to pull that off.
Where I would expect to find a spindle nut there is an area where it looks like you put a puller in. Can't find any videos or other information on the "Internets". Maybe I'm the first to have bad bearings? Anyway, how to remove the hub?
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I just bought a new to me, '09 F-150 4X4. It is plush on the inside and didn't have too many miles on it. One thing that was lacking in the owners manual or any other material in the owners package was the code to unlock the doors. The local Ford dealer wants to charge to get the code for me. I was told there was a site one could go in the internet, plug in some information about the vehicle and the code would be displayed.
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2009 XLT.. rear drivers side door is locked and closed. Master lock button, remote button and keypad all function and make the manual lock rod go up and down as it should. Both the interior and exterior door handles move freely, as if the door were properly locked, but regardless of the lock position neither will open the door.
I dismantled the door from the inside as best I could and can see all cables and rods are intact down to the actuator mechanism. Pretty sure something inside the actuator is messed up, but how do I get the door open to get at the screws needed to remove the actuator?? If I need to pry the actuator apart, what am I looking for (or more acurately, feeling around for) to release the door latch??
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Undercarriage rattling when closing the driver door? Sounds metal and rattles for a split second. It caught me off guard the other day and here's a video of it.
2014 IS 350 F Sport Rattle - YouTube ...
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got in the truck tonight and she is blowing nothing but cold out the drivers side but the passenger side works as advertised for temp settings. I have been trying to see if there is a self test mode like the earlier year trucks have to see if there is a code. She is dual zone climate/digital so its an EATC if I am not mistaken. I have tried power cycle, pulled and re-installed climate fuse after inspecting. Tried some of the earlier year self test button combinations to no avail. I did notice if I hit defrost a few times after hitting the power and defrost that the temps would go all 00 but I don't know if that is what I am looking for. I probably know my answer which includes tearing out the dash but how to proceed. Bought her with an aftermarket power train warranty so electronics are off the table for warranty. I know the stealership will charge out the rear to fix it too. All signs so far point to a blend door which is not good at all.
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2011 Scab truck when driving over rough stuff drivers side door sounds like its cracked open when its not...never liked clamshell doors wished they would have went with mini doors like Dodge....
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I guess the roof needs adjustment since my driver side door won't close if the window is up all the way.
Checked the roof and found there is a larger gap on the passenger side than on the driver side. That causes the unevenness of the roof, I think.
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I can lock the doors with the key fob but it does not beep. The alarm sets, and the passenger doors all lock, but the drivers door does not. I have checked that all doors are closing properly, and the transmission is in park.
I also tried both key fobs with the same result. The alarm LED flashes about 6 times before glowing steady - is this a code of some sort?
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I have a minor squeak opening and closing the driver's door. Any recommendation for the best lubricant to use on the hinges? Is WD-40 acceptable or are there better alternatives?
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My driver and my driver side passenger (slightly) door squeaks when I open and close it. I know it has to do with the door checks. The black plastic thing that holds the door open 1/4 or 1/2 way. I don't want to try something that might not fix it like greasing it. I don't want a glob of grease on there and it still squeaks. Is there a way to adjust it?
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I'm still shopping around trying to find the right ES. I test drove a very clean 2008 today save for 2 things. The interior smelled a little stale. Can't figure out if it was cleaning solvents that were used or if it's a cleaning product mixed with light smoker smell. That was the only thing I noticed initially until I got in for a quick test drive and closed the drivers door.
When I closed the drivers door it had a hollow gong-like sound, like if you hit a big empty metal barrel. A 'bung' sound. I haven't noticed this on other ES's I've checked out. You can kind of pick out the noise on the passenger door on this car, but it's very muted. The passenger door sounds like it's supposed to sound. It sounds solid, more 'chunk'. You could pick out the slight 'bung' if you were listening for it, but normally, all you hear is 'chunk'. But, there's no missing it in the drivers door. There's no rattle in the door or the car in general. Initially, I thought maybe the speaker was loose, but nothing is moving in the door, it just 'bungs' when you close it. Maybe it's out of alignment? It looked straight.
Is there sound proofing in the door that could be missing or loose from a repair?
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I have a 2000 Chrysler 300M. Recently I got in the car and shut the door normally, not a hard slam or anything, and the driver side window just shattered to pieces. After having the glass replaced I had my mechanic check out the window regulator thinking that may have have been loose or in some way caused the glass to break. It checked out fine, no problem with the mechanism could be found. I've been using the window since then for about 3 months with no problems. What could have caused this window to crumble?
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2006 Solara. When opening driver side door it makes a very loud clicking noise at the 1st and also at the 2nd stop. Same thing when closing the door.
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We have been tolerating a bad squeak in the driver's side front door upon opening, closing (any type of swinging of the door). Dealer tried lubricating it with no success. They told us that they would order a new hinge and "hope" that resolves it. I am a little worried about this. Would you trust your dealer to remove and re-install the door or just live with the squeak?
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2011 f150 5.0... When I turn the key it cranks for about 10 secs I don't hear the fuel pump come on what should I check first before replacing the pump....
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