Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2011 - Chokes When Stomping On Gas With 69,000 Miles?
Sep 15, 2013
So for some time now my truck(2011) has a problem when I floor it while entering the freeway or even down the road..
If im cruising around 30 or 40 and floor it, it down shifts and takes off nice.. but when it goes to change gears, it chokes, not sure how else to explain it, but once past that gear, the following shift fine if im still on the gas..
Normal driving shifts ok, and if im going say 50 or higher and do the same thing, it shifts fine.. so its only when going slower and I floor it..
It has 69,000+ miles on it
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I traded in my 2011 Lariat last month because I had quite a bit of problems with it in the short time I had it. I also didn't care as much for the bells and whistles as I thought I would when I bought it.
I got such a good deal on a new 2011 Lariat Super Crew, that I traded. Shortly after getting the new truck, I had to take it to the dealer for two dents that I found the first time I washed it. I didn't see them when I took delivery because it was dark. I had not seen the truck before that because they got it from another dealer to get the color I wanted. I also had problems with the radio buttons on my steering wheel and the sirius button on the dash not working at times, damaged trim around the left side of the windshield, a discoloration the size of a nickel on the console that I noticed when taking delivery, and a ticking noise in the engine . After the truck was in the shop for 3 days, I get it back without anything being corrected. Parts had to be ordered for the console and trim piece.
I took the truck back in 10 days ago for the engine noise and for them to repair the dents that were there when I got it, along with more troubleshooting on my intermittent problems with the radio and steering wheel buttons. I get a call late yesterday afternoon with the verdict.....Ford says replace the engine due to something being wrong with the crankshaft.
I have to say, I'm pretty disgusted right now. I'm not so sure that I want this truck anymore because of all the issues I've had in the short time I've owned it. Service department at the dealer has been great, and the dealership has been talking about possibly getting me into a new truck. I'm just not so sure I want to try a a third truck. I've been a Ford man my entire life, but I'm disgusted with them right now. I certainly don't want a Chevy or a Dodge, so I don't know what I'm going to do at this point.
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So last night on my way home I was stopping at a traffic signal and noticed a grinding noise from the drivers side front wheel. Upon further investigation I noticed a lot of brake dust on my wheel. I took it to the dealer thinking the caliper might be seized up. Well they looked at the caliper and said it was OK but the inside pad was worn to the metal. The other pads still looked good but since they have to replace the rotor they might as well replace all of them. The tech told me that being up north where they use salt corrodes the pads and doesnt allow them to move freely. He also asked me if I drive a lot of highway miles and I said yes, 30 miles a day. I guess from what he said is that the less they get used the more they will corrode up. So premature brake pad wear could be worse.
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Started a while back and comes and goes. Only commonality I have found is the truck needs to be warmed up for it to happen and usually after a few hours of driving. The downshift from 5th or 6th into fourth, at times, produces anywhere from a light to violent clunk, feels like a typical tranny slip. It will do it while in cruise and it will do it if I don't have the cruise on. Can't figure out if it is going to be a tune issue or hardware.
It does it only downshifting into 4th from 5th or 6th, no other downshifting is a problem and usually the 6th to 4th produces the worst results. At highway speeds that is usually a shift from around 2Krpm to just over 3K rpm (6th to 4th) if it is from 5th it is about 2500 to 3K. Start from a stop and go WOT and there are no issues.
Having it in Tow/Haul or not makes no difference as far as I can tell. IT can do it on one hill and the next time be just fine or do it 2-3 hills in a row. After this last trip it will do it at 9K feet or at 60 feet elevation, didn't make a difference there either.
Another issue that may be hurting the computer is the truck originally came with the 235 tires, it now has 285's and the rear is only 3.31. I plan on going with 265's and maybe still a gear change to 3.73's in the future. I usually only notice this on long trips, first was a 1500mile hauling an ATV, second was last week during a 2500 mile empty. Although I have had it do it a few times locally. I figure those bigger tires can't be good especially with that high of a rear for the management system.
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After I change my oil, I need to reset back to "miles to empty" from "% left on oil" warning. 2009 F150, XLT Supercab. I do not know how to do this.
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I have the normally aspirated 3.7 V6. The ownersd manual talks about the trucks computer telling you when the oil changes are needed.....But, at 6500 miles, bnothing has come through. I have not changed the oil yet on it. I feel this is a huge sin, but am not sure.....I was raised you changed the oil every 2-3 grand. But the owners manual on this truck says the computer will tell you when to. Should I just go ahead and change it?
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I wanted to change oil at 1000 miles on my new 2010 FX4. The dealer said that I should wait till 2500 miles or so because it still has the break in oil in it.
Does he know what he is talking about or should I change it? He did say he would change it and take my money if I really wanted to.
Maybe my thinking is still old school about changing the oil right away with a new engine.
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My truck just hit 110k on the clock, and i've never had the transmission fluid changed. Is this something that I am past due on changing or early? I don't know when it is supposed to be changed. If so is it something that you can do yourself?
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Brought my 2011 Limited (6.2 so old school hydraulic power steering) in for its 45K service, and they found a weeping high pressure line. $100 special order part + 3 hours labor. This seems a little soon (to me) for PS components to be failing already, or is this a common repair? They said I could leave it alone for now and monitor it but could lose power steering while driving (safety risk).
Any history of high pressure power steering line leaks at such low mileage/age before? Does 3 hours labor sound about right?
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My 2010 has 11,000 miles on it. Was driving 75 mph down the freeway when the engine stopped. I was headed to the gas station as my low fuel light had just come on (at the time it died, 37 miles to E).
This is not my first Ford. I understand you shouldn't allow your tank to get that low because it is bad on the fuel pump (or whatever). But, I drove my 09 many times well below 37 miles to E. I have driven this vehicle below 37 miles to E. So, I was startled when it died.
It was towed to the dealership and their diagnosis was that it was out of gas. This does not make me happy... as I am aware that it was "low" on gas. But if the gauge is telling me 37 miles to E, then why did it stop running?
What good is a gauge/warning on my new vehicle if it is inaccurate?
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Experiencing cooling problems with a truck this new? My 2 month old supercrew 5.0 began over heating on a road trip last week. After about 400 miles of driving I see coolant temp start climbing until the overheating warning popped up. Pulled over, turned engine off, popped the hood and did not notice any obvious signs of overheating. Ended up waiting about 15 minutes, started truck up again, temp gauge reading 1/2.
Get back on the road, within 5 min temp starts climbing again, reaches ~ 3/4 then all of a sudden returns to 1/2. Continue on 10 min later temp gauge climbs from 1/2 to overheating quickly. I pulled over again same situation no obvious signs of overheating, but allow sometime to cool off. Started truck again temp gauge reads 1/2. Continue driving and temp gauge seems possessed, going from 1/2 to 3/4 back to 1/2 to almost overheating as I nursed it to the next dealer that I could find.
Dealer tech was able to mimic the problem and believes that coolant is not flowing properly. Thermostat replaced, water pump pulled and inspected, air bleed out of the system, all with no improvement. Now heads are being pulled/replaced to see if this solves the problem. Its depressing to have my new truck with 2,382 miles sitting under the knife at the dealer.
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I got my 2011 S Corolla brand new and it's been great thus far. To make things a little more exciting, I got a manual. The last manual I had was my 2006 325i so it's been a little while.
Over the past few weeks, both my wife and I are experiencing quite a bit of clutch shudder or chatter and are finding it more and more difficult to engage the clutch without completely shaking the car. We've noticed this the longer the car is driven. On cold starts it doesn't happen. I've read some horror stories of the tranny going out, a weak transmission mount, or a warped flywheel in these Corollas. We bought this car because it's supposed to be reliable and get good mileage. Also, I'm still under the powertrain warranty but I'm not sure if they'll cover the clutch.
I have not checked the transmission fluid yet either. I can really use some suggestions. I had a 318is for over 100,000 miles and never put a new clutch in it!!! I'm getting frustrated.
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My 2011 3.7 CC seems like it is missing at speed.
If I am around 75 or so in 6th is vibrates, but downshifting to 5th or 4th seem to take it away.
I am going in tomorrow and have the tires rotated and balance, but I think it is somewhere else. It has a little over 42,000 miles
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i have a 2011 f150 xlt with the 5.0, my 4x4 does not lock in very well, i practically have to come to a stop and wait for it to engage fully or it starts banging and slipping like its trying to engage and not quite making it. are they still suppose to be on the fly? is there any kind of maintenance that i can do to them to have them work better? are they still locking hubs or did they change something?
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How do you remove the pcv valve on 2011 5.0l. I don't want to break it .
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I bought a 2011 F-150 a year ago. Today was I driving my truck like usual and for some odd reason, it revved up to 3500 and then my truck shooked like I hit a big pump. I'm debating whether I have a faulty transmission or something. I barely touched the foot pedal. I wasn't evening barely putting any pressure on the accelerator and for some odd reason, it revved up that high and something shook my truck. I know a little bit about vehicles, my transmissions are not my thing. I'm gonna' take it in Monday morning to work.
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We purchased a brand new 16' tandem trailer last night. Plugged it in to my husbands 2011 F150 and hooked it up, lights went on, directionals, hazards, and break lights will not go on UNLESS the trailer light itself is taken off the trailer. We are thinking a grounding issue.
We pulled our 2011 F150 up to another trailer, same issue, only the running lights works.
Two days ago a old single axle trailer worked fine, break lights, directionals, everything.
When the owner put electrical tape around the bolts that connected the lights to the trailer the directionals worked, then they tightened up the nuts it touched the metal part of the trailer, it (meaning directionals, hazards, break lights) stopped working, (but the running lights stayed on). Are we tripping or what the heck is going on here?
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Will be towing about 5k to Fla. in march from Chicago area. have 2011 F150 SCrew 3.73. max tow package , ecoboost. Wondering to use tow/haul all the time or just using it in the hilly parts of Tenn. Have heard that running in overdrive will mess up the tranny.
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The fuse was not blown. The bus connection for that fuse was burned from a high capacitance caused when there is a loose connection.......period.
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2011 f150 - Wiper is in off position, but continues to operate intermittently.
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