Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2011 - Changing Oil / Drivetrain Failures?
Jun 6, 2011
I recently purchased my 2011 F150, which is the first new vehicle I've ever owned. I have always changed my own oil, and if possible I would like to continue doing this myself. My only concern is any potential warranty claims down the road.
If I change my own oil can Ford blame any drivetrain failures on me? What should I do to maintain records of my own maintenance to prove I've changed the oil regularly?
I am aware that I must use synthetic oil and a Motorcraft filter.
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I am changing my oil for the first time on my 2011 F-150 4X4 with the 5.0 V8 and needed info about the location of the oil drain plug or a pic of it along with the plug size.
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I'm new to the site and I've got a 2012 F-150 SuperCrew EcoBoost that has had the front wheel hubs replaced twice. Both hubs two winters ago and one hub last winter. I'm taking it in again tomorrow because the wheels are growling again when turning slightly at low speeds and sometimes without turning. I'm running in 2H, so the hubs should not be engaged. Previous years it was when running in 4H or 4A.
When I took it in, the service manager said it was common this time of year because of the temperature. Always seems to be cold, but not frigid, days here in SD. I asked why I should tolerate having hubs replaced every year, but he can't answer that.
I'm at 36,450 miles/29 months. I'm not beating on it or running in 4wd on dry pavement. Just normal highway miles. I should know more tomorrow after it comes out of the shop.
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I just bought a new 2010 supercrew 4x4 lariat. I have 2000 mles on it. vehicle is equipped with 20" wheels with scorpion tires. Problem is that ride is very hard plus there is really annoying low level vibration that seems to be related to drivetrain - this vibration is most noticable on smooth roads. i have owned 99, 03, 05, and 08 4x4 lariat supercrews and this is by far the worst riding truck. i put a lot of miles on my trucks and this one is not in the least enjoyable to drive.
I took it back to ford dealership and they just said that these new bodies are 'stiffer' and transmit more vibration and that new 6 speed transmission is not as smooth. I reduced tire pressure from 40psi (as delivered) to 35psi with no difference. I don't buy it - I believe that something is wrong that can be fixed - but not sure where to look. Other than this problem i really like the truck!
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I purchased a trailer recently and decided to change the wiring from 4 wire to a 7 wire. I matched up one for one and blew a fuse on the truck. Looking at my manual there are a number of fuses related to the towing or trailer hitch wiring.
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After I change my oil, I need to reset back to "miles to empty" from "% left on oil" warning. 2009 F150, XLT Supercab. I do not know how to do this.
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How much my mileage will suffer if I go with a 3:73 rearend instead of a 3:55 ? Towing and not towing ? Truck will be 2012 F150 4X4.
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My new to me 2010 f150 4x4 superCrew Lariat is great. Got the 6spd tranny. Do a lot of maint. Myself and wanting to change tranny fluid since I hit 90k. Didn't see a dipstick. Called the stealership and they told me I can't do the change n/c I need certain equipment.
Are there any write ups? Are there any more surprises with this truck, like routine maint issues that I need to be aware of? I plan on doing diff fluid changes. Is this possible?
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2009 f150 5.4. Replacing water pump and I can't get the fan to break loose. I've broken 2 belt wrenches. I've just sprayed liquid wrench on it .
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Been looking at a level for my truck and some new wheels and tires. If I change sizes, can the dealership recalibrate my Speedo and transmission shift points for me?
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I have a 2009 f150 platinum and have been told both sides of the story now... that the front differential is sealed and need not be changed, and also that it is unsealed and can be changed. While asking this question I might as well lump in the rear differential as well. Are they both sealed or unsealed and need to be changed???
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2010 f150 supercrew fx4
While driving down the highway yesterday at about 65mph I went to change lanes. As I was changing lanes I gave it a little gas. About half way through the lane change truck jerked like I had just been rear ended. I immediately checked my mirrors to see if I changed lanes in front of some body. No one was around. Truck still ran the same. Everything I'be read seems like similar thing happen to others at slower speed.
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I broke a nipple that a small hose connects to while I was changing my air filter. What this is and possibly some fix-it tips. I attached a couple of pics. one broke and one not broke.
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Brake booster failures on 2011 and newer F-250's? I purchased a 2011 last august and the mechanic at the dealer I purchased the truck from stated that he had replaced the vacuum pump, vacuum brake booster and brake master cylinder on the truck just before I bought it as they were bad. Since then I have had two factory Ford vacuum Boosters fail on me. That makes at least three new factory Ford booster assemblies in this truck within the last year. What could be causing the problem? The truck is out of warranty and I am at a loss as to what could be causing them problem. Too much vacuum? Luckily the last two boosters have failed while sitting in a drive through and at a stop light, otherwise I may have had trouble stopping.
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4400 miles on it. Over last few days the transmission started to slip. First gear engages fine, but the change to 2nd involves a rev....(with no acceleration) till it finally grabs.
Reverse into my garage up my slight incline of a drive does same. Slip rev....slip rev... No gear noises.
Tried to check fluid level...(that's what it sounded like to me) but sealed system.
Taking it in for warranty check/work.
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My 2011 3.7 CC seems like it is missing at speed.
If I am around 75 or so in 6th is vibrates, but downshifting to 5th or 4th seem to take it away.
I am going in tomorrow and have the tires rotated and balance, but I think it is somewhere else. It has a little over 42,000 miles
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2011 Lariat. My key fob is starting to come apart, and dropping it didn't work any.
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i have a 2011 f150 xlt with the 5.0, my 4x4 does not lock in very well, i practically have to come to a stop and wait for it to engage fully or it starts banging and slipping like its trying to engage and not quite making it. are they still suppose to be on the fly? is there any kind of maintenance that i can do to them to have them work better? are they still locking hubs or did they change something?
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How do you remove the pcv valve on 2011 5.0l. I don't want to break it .
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I bought a 2011 F-150 a year ago. Today was I driving my truck like usual and for some odd reason, it revved up to 3500 and then my truck shooked like I hit a big pump. I'm debating whether I have a faulty transmission or something. I barely touched the foot pedal. I wasn't evening barely putting any pressure on the accelerator and for some odd reason, it revved up that high and something shook my truck. I know a little bit about vehicles, my transmissions are not my thing. I'm gonna' take it in Monday morning to work.
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We purchased a brand new 16' tandem trailer last night. Plugged it in to my husbands 2011 F150 and hooked it up, lights went on, directionals, hazards, and break lights will not go on UNLESS the trailer light itself is taken off the trailer. We are thinking a grounding issue.
We pulled our 2011 F150 up to another trailer, same issue, only the running lights works.
Two days ago a old single axle trailer worked fine, break lights, directionals, everything.
When the owner put electrical tape around the bolts that connected the lights to the trailer the directionals worked, then they tightened up the nuts it touched the metal part of the trailer, it (meaning directionals, hazards, break lights) stopped working, (but the running lights stayed on). Are we tripping or what the heck is going on here?
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