Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2010 V8 - RPM Rises And Drops In Altitudes Above 9000 Feet
Jun 14, 2017
2010 F150 5.4V8... At altitudes 9000 ft and above the engine RPM rises and drops while at idle and while driving slow. It also burns more gas.
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I have a vibration sound coming from just under my feet. Its not all the time, but about twice a week itll start. Wont stop until ive parked and turned off the truck. The vibration intensifies with speed of the road, not RPM. Stops when the truck is stopped, then picks back up as soon as i go. It usually stops or atleasts gets a lot quieter when i get to highway speeds.
Now, it will only make the sound in 2H, when i switch to 4H/4L, the sound completely disappears. But as soon as I put it back into 2H, it starts right back up.
I drive a 2013 F150, 33000KM and has a level kit. Any thoughts?
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Today and yesterday day mark the first time since I have owned my truck, that I have really taxed it with a load or serious work.
I have 8126, miles to date, and hadn't felt this annoying and somewhat pronounced shudder at throttle- tip in. Only from a dead stop. I'm doing some work to my house, so as I type this I have about 700-800lbs in my box. I've never felt this shudder empty as I do with a load, and starting out on an incline.
It feels like the rear is rolling over a "rumble strip" for the first few feet of throttle input, between 5-10 mph and then smooth everywhere else.
Rob- if your reading this, I can't remember if your shudder was similar, or if yours did it empty or only when towing or hauling a load.
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I have a 1999 passat 1.8t and its having problems accelerating. When you hit the gas pedal the idle rises and drops constantly. What this is?
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Our summers typically hover in the 90's and the winters in the 40's. Each year we typically get a good cols snap and it drops in the teens at night and 20's-30's during the day.
Earlier this winter we had a week long episode of colder than normal weather which hung in the low 30's all day and teens at night.
The avg MPG's on my truck for mixed driving dropped from the 18+ that I normally enjoy to around 16.5. When the weather returned to normal for us, my MPG's returned to normal as well.
Have any of you noticed any serious climatic swings in your MPG's?
Yes, I know that vehicles normally burn more fuel in the winter but the info screen on my truck drives that point home.
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Used to own a F250 so I am new to the F150. I am currently in a 2014 F150 fx4 with about 10k miles on it. I noticed when the truck is shifting into 3rd (normal acceleration)the rpms once in third remain around 1800 then drop to 1400ish after about 2 seconds or so while still in third (almost like its shifting again). What it is?
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I have a 2011 F250 6.2L Was working great until the other day when I went to hit the gas and the RPMs dropped and the truck shut off. I tried to restart which it would do for maybe a second and then shut down again. I checked the fuel line going to the top of the engine with the key switch on and there was not very good fuel pressure. so I thought my fuel pump was bad. After switching the fuel pump, the truck still starts and immediately shuts off. I checked the fuel line again and this time it is giving an initial burst of fuel for a second and then nothing. What else it could be?
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I will most likely be driving my Corolla to Colorado this summer and I plan on attempting several 14'ers. I know you can almost drive to the top of Mt Evans which is over 14k. Driving that high in Corolla, how was the drive up?
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I have a 2010 Corolla S with automatic transmission. Today it started giving a push or a jerk when the 1st gear drops, so from 1st going to 2nd it pushes or jerks the car ahead. Not sure what is wrong with it, it has 56000 miles on it.
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What are some pros/cons you have with yours? Both 5.4 supercabs xlt im looking at just cant decide. The 09 has a overall higher rating but its not to much more.
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Just got the 2010 passat two days ago. As you know, when you press the accelerator, the E brake releases. When i do this, the back of the car rises up just a bit as the brake hasnt fully released, but can this wear out the brake quicker, since im effectivly driving with the e brake half on for that half second. Im pretty sure it wont as I think it uses the rear disk brake for the E brake, but curious what others think.
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This is the first winter with my 2012 Prius, and I've been suspicious of the climate controls. Today, my passenger complained that there was not heat going the to feet. I've always worn insulated shoes/pants so I didn't really notice before.
I jacked up my fan, increased the temperature and changed the aim to the feet/knees only. I then put my hand to where the gas pedal is. I couldn't feel any air flow at the feet. There was still plenty of air coming out of the upper side vents that blows towards your chest. The upper vent got hot, but not the feet.
Why there's no/little airflow to the feet? I'm thinking of checking my carbon filter but it is too cold be pulling out parts. I'm now suspicious if my car's air direction function works properly.
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I have problem with my brake system. When is comes to last 10 feet to a stop light always make this squeaky noise/high pitch noise. Brought it to the dealer for few times and they said this is a high-performance brake that's why there is these type of sound. I have a 2014 IS350.
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I have 2010 FX4 with 76,000 miles, 5.4L with automatic trans and the console shifter. Problem is, lately it doesn't always want to come out of Park when I try to go somewhere. I know that the brake pedal needs to be pushed in order to release the lock on the shifter. If I pump the pedal a couple of times it seems to release the lock eventually. Is there a brake pressure switch that actuates the lock or a switch on the pedal that needs to be made to release the lock? I have tried to search on here for a fix with no luck.
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I'm having a problem with my 2010 F150 4x4. I'm a mail carrier and when I'm stopped at mail boxes my truck flutters and and acts like it's not getting gas or not getting fire. If I give it gas it goes on. It may do this 1 time a day or 100 times a day. My check engine light has come on and then after awhile it will go off. The Ford dealership thinks it is an oil pressure problem but the oil pressure gauge doesn't drop when this happens.
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I drove the truck yesterday and a few miles from the house i noticed the air conditioning wasn't working. After realizing it wasn't working i turned it off and continued on my 30 minute drive. When i arrived to my destination i opened the hood and watched the A/C compressor pulley as the wife turned the A/C on. The clutch was working as it should, and the engine rpm increased slightly with the load of the A/C as usual. The air coming from the vents was not cooled at all.
After talking with a few people at work they seem to think it's a mechanical issue, ie: the heater core isn't switching the louver from heat to A/C. I am going to do some investigating this weekend and will post my results.
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2010 / 5.4... Attempting to trace the oil leak... thought it was power steering high pressure line but now I think that's just dirty from oil leaking through rad & blowing onto the steering line below. Looks like difficult to replace - anything I need to be cautious / aware of that's replaced a rad before?
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2010 F-150 with 38 gallon tank. Original thought was great way of having some spare fuel available for use during an emergency. How to easily remove gas from these new vehicles?
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I just bought a 2010 F-150 with 60,000 miles. I have noticed that as I slow to a stop the transmission feels like it doesn't down shift. The RPM stays at 1000 and only drops to about 550 rpm when the vehicle comes to a complete stop. Feels like the brakes are fighting the engine to stop the vehicle.
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I can't believe how rusty my rear end is with 17000 miles? It's not flaking off rusty but it's not black anymore, is this bad ? I was thinking of painting it , but not sure if it's worth it????
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2010 F150 4.6L 2V, 50k miles. Have recently developed an issue with an extremely rough idle with the AC on and trans in Drive. If in park, the idle is high enough that it is much less noticeable. I have cleaned my throttle body, and MAF sensor ? After this , I disconnected battery for about 30mins and let the computer reset. After a long drive today, it is still happening. This engine has the servo controlled throttle body, and therefore no IAC valve that I can identify. I would assume that the idle increase necessary for the AC to be on would come from the servo controlled throttle body itself with no need for an external IAC. The idle in Drive with the AC on will drop to 500 RPM or less and it is very rough. Is there a procedure for a recalibration of the servo throttle body that I could try ?
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