Yesterday the truck run Perfect. Got home and shut it off. This morning I get I. Turn key and the truck will crank but not start. After it tries to start the oil light comes on. I Che ked the oil and it was 2.5 its low. Added oil and it still isn't starting! 2010 f150 5.4l ....
View 3 RepliesI have a 2009 F150 with 100,000+ miles on it. It will crank, but it won't start. It was sitting for 10 days while I was away on vacation. It was running just fine before I left. I though it might be the battery so I changed it and it still won't turn over. I read about a fuel pump driver module on the 04-08 models, but I'm not sure if the '09's have had an issue. My only thoughts would be the starter or the fuel pump.
View 6 RepliesIssues:
1. Backup camera sporadically does not come on in rear view mirror. Has already been replaced by Ford dealership.
2. Backup camera settings Visual Park Aid and Guidelines sporadically are set to 'off'
3. While truck is running, start seeing warnings/hearing chimes. Emergency Brake (which isn't set), Engine Overheating, Check 4X4, etc.
4. Truck will NOT start. Won't even attempt to turn over. When this happens, I have a radio but the LED screen is usually blank.
These sporadic issues are starting to seem to be related to the use of the emergency brake. Use of the emergency brake does not always immediately cause issues. Now that I feel like there is some kind of connection, I have been setting the e-brake when I park it (even if not needed) trying to force things to happen because Ford says if they can't make it happen they don't know where to look/what to fix. I can't always make things happen by using the e brake...but am noticing things happen more often when I DO use it and when things happen (like backup camera won't work) setting the brake will make it come on and then I can release it and back up. If it won't crank while the brake is set, releasing it will cause it to crank. The other morning when I had all the warnings/chimes going off setting the e-brake made everything go back to 'normal'.
Yesterday when I came back from lunch I parked and set the e brake (on level ground). Got in it to leave work, left e-brake set, stepped on regular brake and tried to crank....nothing but radio. Called dealership. They had me try putting the key in, pressing the regular brake, and try to move the shifter from Park to N. Shifter wouldn't move. Then asked to turn key to just get it 'active' and try again. Shifter wouldn't move. Asked me to turn the key to crank and try again. Same thing - shifter wouldn't move. Truck finally cranked after I released e brake. Came home, parked and set e brake and turned it off. It re-started right up with e brake still set.
About 95% of the time our 2012 Elantra runs great. But then 5% of the time, it hits us with this intermittent starting problem. It will crank but just won't turn over. It really feels like it's just not getting any fuel. This has happened intermittently for the past 2 years. Every time we take it in, the dealer can't replicate the problem. It starts right up for them. The car will behave well for a while but then inevitably, it acts up again - usually at 6:30am when we need to get to the hospital for work.
Here's a video of it in the act : [URL] .....
It's not the shift interlock - it wouldn't even crank if it were that.
2010 STX with 4 speed (4r75E)... Yesterday morning when I was almost at work(20 minute drive) I went to accelerate from a stop sign and my truck acted like it was in neutral. Once the rpm's dropped to just above idle speed the transmission caught and I was able to accelerate as normal. I guess I didn't think much of it until I was coming home from work, again about 20 minutes of driving, when I was accelerating while turning left from a stop sign. Halfway through the turn my rpm's shot up to about 5000 and it was acting as if I were in neutral again. Just as before, when the rpms dropped to just above idle, the transmission reengaged and everything was normal.
I decided to take my wife's van to Walmart and grabbed a bottle of lucas oil "transmission fix". I figured it might buy me a little time before I am able to get it to a shop for diagnosis. I used a suction pump to remove approx. 24 oz. of tranny fluid through the dipstick tube. I then added the lucas oil "tranny fix" (24 oz. bottle). I inspected the fluid that I removed. It looks pretty dirty. I would say that it was a nontransparent brown color with a slight red tint. when poured onto a paper towel it still looked brown. It didn't smell burnt at all. I checked the fluid level twice before I added the lucas oil, and twice after. Both times the fluid level was at the full mark (fluid at normal operating temp, with vehicle in park after shifting through all gears).
Fast forward to today and I was able to drive from my current house to my new house(being built) which was about 10 minutes away. I had no issues at all with the transmission. after being at the new house for about an hour and a half I came back home with no issues. about 30 minutes after returning home I headed back out again to run some errands. About 15 minutes into the drive my transmission slipped again as I was making a right turn into the barber's shop parking lot. after about an hour at the barber shop I headed for home again. As before everything was fine for about the first 15 minutes until I tried to make a right turn after sitting at a red light. the transmission slipped as described before, but it did it twice this time in the same turn. Nothing happened after that within the last 5 minutes of driving home.
The slipping only seems to happen when accelerating from a dead stop or from an extremely slow speed(under 5 mph). At highway speeds the transmission down shifts and upshifts just like it always has. My truck has 78,800 miles on it and has never shown any previous signs of transmission issues other than a leaky dipstick tube that I replaced about 3 years ago.
My father had a 94 Taurus that had similar symptoms in the past and it ended up needing new clutch disks and was rebuilt. I'm hoping for that rather than a new or reman'd tranny!
I'm having a problem with my 2010 F150 4x4. I'm a mail carrier and when I'm stopped at mail boxes my truck flutters and and acts like it's not getting gas or not getting fire. If I give it gas it goes on. It may do this 1 time a day or 100 times a day. My check engine light has come on and then after awhile it will go off. The Ford dealership thinks it is an oil pressure problem but the oil pressure gauge doesn't drop when this happens.
View 9 RepliesI just went to try and go pick up some dinner for my wife and I, hopped in the truck, key in the ignition, turn the key, let the computer go through the welcome screen, saw a very brief unknown image then main screen image. Turn over the truck and it just cranks. While cranking, it gives me a tpms failure, a service advance trac an engine overheat(even though it was roughly 24hrs since it last ran), and the wrench, of which those are what I remember but not necessarily in that order. I tried to plug in my dash boss to pull the codes, but no dice. I guess I an just curious what I might be looking at.
Background on the truck: 2012 screw with eco boost, 42,000mi, ford esp, and 99% trouble free.
My '10 f150 sometimes will not start. If I leave it overnight or just a couple of hours it starts just fine. The Starter engages, the battery tests fine. There is no audible hum of the fuel pump just before you try to start it. This happens about once a month. Once after a drive up the canyon, once after a 15 drive around town, and once on a 25 mile drive to my parents home.
I have heard that the type of fuel filler cap does not let the fuel tank vent as fuel is used and it creates a type of back pressure that causes the fuel pump to be overloaded and not operate. Also, there is zero drop in performance between these issues.
I got a 2010 F-150 and just installed RECON headlights and taillights on my truck yesterday. Today, I went to go and use my remote start and the lights come on like it should and then it beeps 3 times and doesn't start. All my doors are closed. I thought maybe it was something with my hood sensor but I couldn't really find it.
View 4 RepliesI parked my 2010 F150 XLT at work and went inside, 10 minutes later it had rolled 25 feet and into a ditch.
My first thought was that I had somehow forgotten to put it in park but when I went over to the truck, I checked and it was still in park and the display "lit up" on the "P". Also, a buddy of mine pointed out that the key won't come out unless its in park.
And so my insurance is taking car of the damage but right now I'm driving around with my "parking rock" because my parking brake doesn't work and even if it did, I want to know the root cause of what happened for peace of mind that it won't happen again.
I never use the parking break and my truck was in 2WD at the time. Luckily it was a shallow ditch and so I threw it in 4WD and backed out.....
I was reading some of the TSB and I think some of them apply to my 2010 STX 4x4 with a 4.6l 3v. I am not sure of the build date
View 11 Replies2010 F-150 with 5.4 has stalled shortly after filling gas tank last 3 times. Truck will restart after much cranking. No other stalls except after filling.
View 3 RepliesSo I drove my F150 to work as always, with no problems. I went to leave and it fired right up, but it wouldn't shift out of park. The emergency brake light was on even though the brake was not applied, the traction control light was on even though I wasn't moving, and the tire pressure warning light was on even though all tires are new and inflated properly. I removed the cables from the battery and brushed the contacts even though there was no grime on them, and when I went to start it, it just kept cranking without turning over. So I turned it to off and gave it one more shot and it fired right up, and drove like it was perfectly fine. Why this happened? I got 75k miles on it and have never had a problem...
View 6 RepliesI have a 2010 F150 5.4 with 43k miles. When approaching traffic lights or making a turn and you are approaching idle speeds the truck will start to stall out then ultimately shut off, causing me to loose all functions. It has cause my wife to almost get into a couple of major crashes. Sometimes when trying to start it back up it acts like it is not getting any gas it just keeps turning over. I took it in and it could not be diagnosed because they could not duplicate the problem. This will happen for a couple of days and then be fine for a month or two then start right back at it.
View 2 RepliesI understand why the electric fan kicks on when it does, but it seems that there is no reason for it come on at times. (For example, after sitting all day at work, climbing into it and starting. The temp gauge still reading well below operating temp, fan comes on.
And side note, this has got to be one of the loudest electric cooling fans I have ever heard. Sounds like a turboprop pulled up beside me for take off.... Should I investigate further (thermostat, Fan relay, etc) or is this pretty normal.
The 6 button powercode remote start and alarm will shut the engine down if you open the door after remote starting.
Here is the fix, I found it somewhere else. It's nice doing stuff yourself that the dealer tells you it cant be done.
open the drivers door
turn on the ignition
hold the program/override button for 15 sec (horn will chirp 3 times)
press the override button again horn will chirp 4 times
" " horn will chirp 5 times
" " horn will chirp 6 times
" " horn will chirp 7 times
" " horn will chirp 8 times letting you know you are in option bank 5.
press the panic button on the fob horn will chirp once
" " chirp twice
" " chirp three times
" " chirp 4 times
" " chirp 5 times
press the lock button on the fob once...your led alarm light will now be off.
Turn off the ignition
you are done
Enjoy
Activate the remote start open the door(smile) just don't press the brake before you put key in ignition and turn.
I drive a 2001 ford f150 lariat 5.4L. My truck will crank but not start, i am getting complete spark, and have ran a full fuel pressure procedure, and am getting complete fuel pressure, there is no water in my gas, everything checks out how it should. I ran a test on my cluster and it showed a code that said i am not getting connection to computer to start. I removed the cluster and repaired all loose wires properly, and it still wont start! I have had many people look at it and they said it could still be a bad cluster.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2010 F-150 which has a problem that the dealer cannot figure out. When I leave the heater/air on when I shut the truck off upon restart the heater/air is off. The heater/air will turn on if I restart the truck within a few minutes but if it is left for say 15mins it seems the truck forgets where the heater switch was upon shut down. This causes a huge problem for my remote starter as the selection I need does not come on after leaving the vehicle for a time.
The codes for the truck are OK according to the dealer.
Having some problems with my truck.... First off I bought a 2002 excursion and drove it for one day. Then I was at the car wash cleaning up the truck. Then I saw the window fogging up so I turned the car off. Now it won't start.
I had previously installed a new stereo, but had some problems, so I ran the remote wire to the fuse box, because the wire in the harness wasn't getting power.. So after a little trouble shooting we found out that the fuel pump wasn't working or was bad.
We replaced it, now it has pressure but will not start, will start with starting fluid but will not crank on its own. someone told me it may be a bad PCM? and a dealer can only replace it... I don't have tons of cash, as i bought this truck on 8/30/12 and this happened the day after i bought it.
The previous owner has paid or the fuel pump replacing but I don't think its right on my part to have him pay more money as this may be a mess up on my part with hooking the radio up to the fuse box... we have tried the fuses,realys, crank sensors...
2010 f150 4x4... Whether I'm in 4wd or 2wd when I turn at low speed something in the rear has slow clunking but clears out after a few feet of going straight. This occurs with or without a trailer behind me. Just bought this truck a week ago m noticed it about the third time I drive it.
View 4 RepliesI had issues with my F250 cranking last winter when the temperature dropped, so I changed out the glow plugs in the spring. I hadn't been able to truly test them yet, since it hasn't been cold, but the other morning my truck wouldn't crank up. It was 40 degrees out the night before, and it had been almost 24 hours since I cranked the truck, but it seems to me like the truck shouldn't have an issue in that mild weather.
I'm not sure what I need to do next to try and fix this problem, it's been driving me crazy and risks stranding me if I park for a while in an area where I am unable to plug by block heater in. The truck cranks fine when I have had it plugged in for a while, so I'm fairly certain it's a heating issue. I haven't done any tests since last year, but I know that the GPR was working properly last winter, which is why I changed out the glow plugs.