Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2010 Truck Stalling Out When Approaching Idle Speeds
Jun 29, 2015
I have a 2010 F150 5.4 with 43k miles. When approaching traffic lights or making a turn and you are approaching idle speeds the truck will start to stall out then ultimately shut off, causing me to loose all functions. It has cause my wife to almost get into a couple of major crashes. Sometimes when trying to start it back up it acts like it is not getting any gas it just keeps turning over. I took it in and it could not be diagnosed because they could not duplicate the problem. This will happen for a couple of days and then be fine for a month or two then start right back at it.
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2010 F-150 with 5.4 has stalled shortly after filling gas tank last 3 times. Truck will restart after much cranking. No other stalls except after filling.
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I have a 2011 5.0 screw with 3.73 gears. Today my wife has the truck to haul stuff for her craft show. She calls and says the truck keeps stalling, like she had to keep restarting the truck 3-4 times to back up 10 feet. The dealership we bought it from is going to pick it up and give us another truck to use while they figure it out.
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Whenever Im driving at slower speeds - parking lots, side streets, etc I get a squeaking/squelching sound coming from somewhere in the front end of the truck. I thought at first it may have been a rattling heat shield someplace under the truck, but now Im not so sure. No loss of power, check engine light, or anything of that nature has occurred so Im not sure what to do. Its a 2010 Ford F150 XLT 4wd ....
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When speeds are 40-50 mph range and then back off a bit to get back up to speed it reacts very slow. Will get up to highway speeds on an easy acceleration, but when I try to get back up to speeds quickly or catch up then truck is sluggish and slow to react. Was told it may be a stretched drivetrain? Is that possible?
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2009 F-150 Lariat 4x4 with 5.4L.
My truck will rev no more than three times then idle for about 10 seconds. Then rev 3 times then idle for about 10 seconds. It keeps doing this. For weeks. Idles about 500, revs to 1500. The dealer had it in the shop for 3 days and found nothing wrong with it. I have a video but it won't let me upload it. I don't know what I can do since the DEALERSHIP doesn't even know what to do. Doesn't throw a code.
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I have a 2010 F150 XLT crew cab, and I'm the second owner. Ever since I have owned the truck, it has had a pretty bad shake/vibration at highway speeds, that gets worse with higher speed. I have checked the alignment multiple times, rotated tires, had them re-balanced, and I still cannot figure out what is causing this. What else should I be checking?
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I'm having a problem with my 2010 F150 4x4. I'm a mail carrier and when I'm stopped at mail boxes my truck flutters and and acts like it's not getting gas or not getting fire. If I give it gas it goes on. It may do this 1 time a day or 100 times a day. My check engine light has come on and then after awhile it will go off. The Ford dealership thinks it is an oil pressure problem but the oil pressure gauge doesn't drop when this happens.
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My '10 f150 sometimes will not start. If I leave it overnight or just a couple of hours it starts just fine. The Starter engages, the battery tests fine. There is no audible hum of the fuel pump just before you try to start it. This happens about once a month. Once after a drive up the canyon, once after a 15 drive around town, and once on a 25 mile drive to my parents home.
I have heard that the type of fuel filler cap does not let the fuel tank vent as fuel is used and it creates a type of back pressure that causes the fuel pump to be overloaded and not operate. Also, there is zero drop in performance between these issues.
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I parked my 2010 F150 XLT at work and went inside, 10 minutes later it had rolled 25 feet and into a ditch.
My first thought was that I had somehow forgotten to put it in park but when I went over to the truck, I checked and it was still in park and the display "lit up" on the "P". Also, a buddy of mine pointed out that the key won't come out unless its in park.
And so my insurance is taking car of the damage but right now I'm driving around with my "parking rock" because my parking brake doesn't work and even if it did, I want to know the root cause of what happened for peace of mind that it won't happen again.
I never use the parking break and my truck was in 2WD at the time. Luckily it was a shallow ditch and so I threw it in 4WD and backed out.....
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I was reading some of the TSB and I think some of them apply to my 2010 STX 4x4 with a 4.6l 3v. I am not sure of the build date
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Yesterday the truck run Perfect. Got home and shut it off. This morning I get I. Turn key and the truck will crank but not start. After it tries to start the oil light comes on. I Che ked the oil and it was 2.5 its low. Added oil and it still isn't starting! 2010 f150 5.4l ....
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So I drove my F150 to work as always, with no problems. I went to leave and it fired right up, but it wouldn't shift out of park. The emergency brake light was on even though the brake was not applied, the traction control light was on even though I wasn't moving, and the tire pressure warning light was on even though all tires are new and inflated properly. I removed the cables from the battery and brushed the contacts even though there was no grime on them, and when I went to start it, it just kept cranking without turning over. So I turned it to off and gave it one more shot and it fired right up, and drove like it was perfectly fine. Why this happened? I got 75k miles on it and have never had a problem...
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I have a 2010 Corolla LE with approx 63k miles. The problem I am having is when approaching about 45 mph, a slight rattle begins to make noise and it gets faster/louder as my speed increases. It is a noise that sounds like something is vibrating on the inside of the dash/in the engine bay. I have opened up the glove box and replaced the cabin air filter, and even drove around with the glove box dropped down to see if the noise is coming from the interior. It sounded the same with the glove box dropped down. I have done research with the service bulletins and even secured the washer hose suspecting that was the problem but it made no difference.
It is very frustrating to me because it does not seem to be affected by anything but speed. After hitting 45 mph it begins and will go away after going below 45. Changing any of the AC/blower knobs makes no difference. It does not seem to change the way the vehicle performs in any way either. Just an annoyance more than anything!
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2010 F150 4.6L 2V, 50k miles. Have recently developed an issue with an extremely rough idle with the AC on and trans in Drive. If in park, the idle is high enough that it is much less noticeable. I have cleaned my throttle body, and MAF sensor ? After this , I disconnected battery for about 30mins and let the computer reset. After a long drive today, it is still happening. This engine has the servo controlled throttle body, and therefore no IAC valve that I can identify. I would assume that the idle increase necessary for the AC to be on would come from the servo controlled throttle body itself with no need for an external IAC. The idle in Drive with the AC on will drop to 500 RPM or less and it is very rough. Is there a procedure for a recalibration of the servo throttle body that I could try ?
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Just pick up a 2010 FX4 with the 5.4. Noticed at idle with the A/C on 75% of the time my truck is shuddering at idle. If i turn the A/C off it goes away. Common sense is that i know the the A/C draws a lot from the engine but have a shudder like that? The P/O's ESP transferred to me so i can take it in if need be.
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The 6 button powercode remote start and alarm will shut the engine down if you open the door after remote starting.
Here is the fix, I found it somewhere else. It's nice doing stuff yourself that the dealer tells you it cant be done.
open the drivers door
turn on the ignition
hold the program/override button for 15 sec (horn will chirp 3 times)
press the override button again horn will chirp 4 times
" " horn will chirp 5 times
" " horn will chirp 6 times
" " horn will chirp 7 times
" " horn will chirp 8 times letting you know you are in option bank 5.
press the panic button on the fob horn will chirp once
" " chirp twice
" " chirp three times
" " chirp 4 times
" " chirp 5 times
press the lock button on the fob once...your led alarm light will now be off.
Turn off the ignition
you are done
Enjoy
Activate the remote start open the door(smile) just don't press the brake before you put key in ignition and turn.
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What should my idle speed be ? 2010 F150 4.6 2v, 4spd auto. Did not see anything under the hood on the stickers, maybe I missed it.
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It's an oldie, 1984, but so far still kicking. 6 cyl 2.8, carb. I took a little couple hundred mile trip a few weeks ago. Rolled back into town no problems.
A few days later I took a ride and the ranger would stall when approaching a stop sign or light. I would hold the pedal down a little to keep it running but it sounded like it wanted to die if I didn't feather the pedal to rev a bit.
I drove a few days later, as I was going down the neighborhood road(25 mph), it acted like it wanted to just die. I mashed the pedal and it had no effect. It didn't stall and eventually I could rev the engine to continue.
It continues to do the same, then will all of a sudden take off like there was never a problem. If/when it does stall again, it can be hard to start until it does start and off I go again like there was never a problem. Other times, it will idle.
Another note: Sometimes when I go to start the engine it will stutter, intermittently turnover. It has done the same thing while actually driving, kind of a jerking deal.
Fuel filter, fuel pump, electrical? I'm going to first check/replace the fuel filter tomorrow.
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My daughter's 2010 v6 Fusion has stalled twice (without warning) in the last month at 65+ mph. The dealer reported that since no fault codes were set, there were no repairs they could make to correct this very dangerous situation from recurring. What repairs were made to correct the problem. The car has only 23k miles and has been well maintained at the dealer.
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I have a 2002 f350 5.4l that has stalling issues, first some back round. Last week I pulled up the a stop light and the truck stalled I figured it was a iced fuel line as it was very cold so I put a bottle of drygas in the tank. Evidently there was a lot of moister in there because as soon as I started the truck check engine light came on and truck would not idle at all. I got through that tank and am now on my second tank. It is better but the truck will still stall when stopped at light (has never stalled in park or on the road only while stopped in drive) the check engine also light went off halfway through the first tank. What next?
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