Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2010 - Transmission Locked Up On Highway?
Feb 10, 2015
2010 F150, 165,XXX miles. On a bridge, at highway speed, the transmission locked up and locked the rear wheels. Everyone is OK, but scared the daylights out of my employee and a customer. Bad situation.
After putting it in park, and restarting, it seemed OK. We towed it to the dealership who replaced what I believe was a control chip on the transmission. Dealer said it is a known problem, and they aren't sure if the new controller would fix it?? They would not guarantee if the new controller would prevent the issue (per Ford).
I run a fleet with 7 F150's in it, and this employee is concerned about driving it. I have 3 2010's in the fleet. I am trying to figure out if this is limited to 2010, an incompetent dealer, or?
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I have a 2014 screw 4x4 v8 that has been in the shop 5 times now for something that the dealership can't duplicate, and that is intermittent enough for me that I can't determine what the conditions need to be in order to duplicate it myself.
My transmission will shift hard under two different situations:
1) when rolling through a stop, or a momentary stop at a stop sign, the transmission holds up between 3 and 1, and when I bring the rpms up, the transmission shifts down into 1, making a hard clunk;
2) at highway speeds, more so when using cruise, if I accelerate and the truck shifts down from 6 to 4, there will be a hard shift as well. In fact, when I'm on a long stretch of flat, open road using cruise at 70-75, I can feel a slight bump through the steering wheel and floorboard, as if the cruise is trying to engage the throttle a bit more, but only for a split second. But that will happen quite a few times within a couple miles until I come up on a grade and the throttle has to engage for a bit longer to keep speed. Sometimes, the hard shift will do occur going to 5 as well, but 90% of the time it will be a 6-4 shift. If the truck decides to shift from 6-3, there's no issue and it shifts and accelerates like it should.
Again, this is so intermittent, but when it happens, it happens several times. I've had the service tech ride in the truck with me, all the while not being able to duplicate the issue. I understand that these are learning transmissions, so the only thing I can think of is when I try to duplicate it by accelerating over and over, that the transmission adjusts the shift pattern or fluid pressure to compensate.
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I have a 2010 F150 XLT crew cab, and I'm the second owner. Ever since I have owned the truck, it has had a pretty bad shake/vibration at highway speeds, that gets worse with higher speed. I have checked the alignment multiple times, rotated tires, had them re-balanced, and I still cannot figure out what is causing this. What else should I be checking?
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I just bought a 2010 F-150 with 60,000 miles. I have noticed that as I slow to a stop the transmission feels like it doesn't down shift. The RPM stays at 1000 and only drops to about 550 rpm when the vehicle comes to a complete stop. Feels like the brakes are fighting the engine to stop the vehicle.
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2010 STX with 4 speed (4r75E)... Yesterday morning when I was almost at work(20 minute drive) I went to accelerate from a stop sign and my truck acted like it was in neutral. Once the rpm's dropped to just above idle speed the transmission caught and I was able to accelerate as normal. I guess I didn't think much of it until I was coming home from work, again about 20 minutes of driving, when I was accelerating while turning left from a stop sign. Halfway through the turn my rpm's shot up to about 5000 and it was acting as if I were in neutral again. Just as before, when the rpms dropped to just above idle, the transmission reengaged and everything was normal.
I decided to take my wife's van to Walmart and grabbed a bottle of lucas oil "transmission fix". I figured it might buy me a little time before I am able to get it to a shop for diagnosis. I used a suction pump to remove approx. 24 oz. of tranny fluid through the dipstick tube. I then added the lucas oil "tranny fix" (24 oz. bottle). I inspected the fluid that I removed. It looks pretty dirty. I would say that it was a nontransparent brown color with a slight red tint. when poured onto a paper towel it still looked brown. It didn't smell burnt at all. I checked the fluid level twice before I added the lucas oil, and twice after. Both times the fluid level was at the full mark (fluid at normal operating temp, with vehicle in park after shifting through all gears).
Fast forward to today and I was able to drive from my current house to my new house(being built) which was about 10 minutes away. I had no issues at all with the transmission. after being at the new house for about an hour and a half I came back home with no issues. about 30 minutes after returning home I headed back out again to run some errands. About 15 minutes into the drive my transmission slipped again as I was making a right turn into the barber's shop parking lot. after about an hour at the barber shop I headed for home again. As before everything was fine for about the first 15 minutes until I tried to make a right turn after sitting at a red light. the transmission slipped as described before, but it did it twice this time in the same turn. Nothing happened after that within the last 5 minutes of driving home.
The slipping only seems to happen when accelerating from a dead stop or from an extremely slow speed(under 5 mph). At highway speeds the transmission down shifts and upshifts just like it always has. My truck has 78,800 miles on it and has never shown any previous signs of transmission issues other than a leaky dipstick tube that I replaced about 3 years ago.
My father had a 94 Taurus that had similar symptoms in the past and it ended up needing new clutch disks and was rebuilt. I'm hoping for that rather than a new or reman'd tranny!
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My new to me 2010 f150 4x4 superCrew Lariat is great. Got the 6spd tranny. Do a lot of maint. Myself and wanting to change tranny fluid since I hit 90k. Didn't see a dipstick. Called the stealership and they told me I can't do the change n/c I need certain equipment.
Are there any write ups? Are there any more surprises with this truck, like routine maint issues that I need to be aware of? I plan on doing diff fluid changes. Is this possible?
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Is this behavior normal: I test drove a 2010 corolla LE with 4-spd auto, 41K miles. Noticed that on level highway 60 mph that whenever I eased up on the gas that the RPMs would shoot down. Vehicle speed was barely decelerating since I was on level. As soon as gas reapplied (gently), then the RPMs would shoot up. I'm guessing the delta was like 300 RPM. I get the impression that at highway speeds the car is mostly in 3rd gear or shifting up and down a lot. I've read a lot about a TSB for 2011 corollas but nothing for 2010. And I think that problem is different. So my question is whether this is "normal" for driving at highway speeds?
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So I got this rattling sound like a piece of tin rattling underneath the truck, it is coming from the front of the transmission area. About 6 months ago the same thing was happening so I took the truck in for some other warranty work and had the dealership check out this rattle. When I picked the truck up I asked and they said it was rocks/gravel caught up underneath and they took them out and the rattle was gone. The truck is a 2010 FX4.
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I have just started to have this problem or what I think is a problem. When the electronic rear axle is locked and in icy conditions I am getting clunking sounds out of the rear end sometimes. Its hard to explain but it sounds like it is slipping in and out of engagement. Sometimes it works fine or what I think is fine and locks both wheels together and I get no sound at all. I switched off the traction control thinking that the sounds I was hearing were a result if it kicking in but this didn't change the sounds the rear diff is making.
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2009 XLT.. rear drivers side door is locked and closed. Master lock button, remote button and keypad all function and make the manual lock rod go up and down as it should. Both the interior and exterior door handles move freely, as if the door were properly locked, but regardless of the lock position neither will open the door.
I dismantled the door from the inside as best I could and can see all cables and rods are intact down to the actuator mechanism. Pretty sure something inside the actuator is messed up, but how do I get the door open to get at the screws needed to remove the actuator?? If I need to pry the actuator apart, what am I looking for (or more acurately, feeling around for) to release the door latch??
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I've had this 2012 for several months now but have never really romped on the throttle until yesterday's road trip (not a lead foot driver).
I was driving on the highway at about 55 when I needed to pass so I floored the throttle and - the truck bucked like a wild horse and the power dropped to a low acceleration. Once I backed off the throttle to about half-way the engine took off like "normal".
These symptoms were repeatable throughout my entire 500 mile trip. Is this a known issue with the EB?
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I'm a converted Chevy man and I don't think my 2011 F150 FX4 is cold enough. I am getting 46 degrees at highway speeds and outside vtemp is 77. My Chevy always get 38-40 in the same situations. What is eveybody getting? Is this normal?
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Lifting 09-13 F-150 with the two piece drive shaft. I am getting a lot of vibrations at highway speeds(55mph or higher). I have a Pro Comp 6 inch lift that was installed while I was stationed in Alaska. I have the drive shaft spacer that goes on the drive shaft at the pinion. I also have a carrier bearing drop kit from BDS that I am currently experimenting with (trying to find the sweet spot). I am at a loss though because my truck is no longer fun to drive. I drive an hour to work one way and it blows that my truck feels as though it will rattle apart. I have tried doing all the research that I can find about this issue.
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This morning (roughly freezing temperature - nothing out of the ordinary after the brutal winter we just had) got onto the highway to head to work and set the cruise control (as normal) at approx 110km/h (65mph) and after several seconds heard a distinct, quite unpleasant grinding noise. It was loud enough to be heard over the heater and radio. Turned the heater and radio off to listen closer and didn't like the sound of it - sounded like metal on metal.
There was no different feel in the floor, pedals or steering wheel. As soon as I turned cruise control off, the noise disappeared! Turned cruise control back on, and the noise returned approx 5 seconds later. If I continued driving along normally and sustained a certain speed, the noise would appear after 5 seconds again and only go away once I lifted off the gas or coasted down a hill... Very bizarre. Once I got to work and poked my head underneath didn't immediately notice anything out of the ordinary - no funny smells or anything...
Background info: 2011 FX4 ecoboost, crew cab. Stock, no modifications. Approx 134,000km (~80,000 miles)...
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I have a 2010 ford f-150. My fuel door swings loose and the cover came off on the highway. Where I can get another one? I need to replace the whole thing.
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2010 4x4 F150 Lariat 5.4 L, have been working on throttle response problems off and on for a few months. Initially got p0404 codes, and replaced the accel pedal assembly, now graduated to p2135 code, and stall at idle after a highway trip. Wondering if this may be a issue with aftermarket air filter causing misread errors on sensors. Had it to the dealer, with out any real remedy.
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I have a 2012 4x4 EB CC. In 6th gear, on the highway between 1200-1700 RPM's, during a slow acceleration, it feels like it is missing or shuddering. It is most pronounced going up a hill, and/or towing something. As soon as you get above about 1700, it goes away. Rig needs to be fully warmed up (not just the engine, but tranny/drivetrain). Needless to say, this is generally from about 52-65 mph, which is most highway (not freeway) driving I do. At times it's so bad my wife says it's time to get a Chebby.
Had it in about a year ago, couldn't duplicate it. Took it in this last week. Did the TSB on the plugs, and was told that would fix it. It didn't. Took it back in; they couldn't duplicate the issue. Rotated the tires hoping that might do something. Took the head service guy for a ride, and made it happen; it was very obvious then. It seems like the tachometer should bounce or shudder a bit when it's doing it, but nothing. It's going back in on Monday to see what they can do.
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What are some pros/cons you have with yours? Both 5.4 supercabs xlt im looking at just cant decide. The 09 has a overall higher rating but its not to much more.
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I have a 2009 Hyundai Sonata V6 3.3. I'm currently about to hit 65k miles. About 2 weeks ago i felt the transmission slipping while I was on the highway. Yesterday my check engine light came on. I took it to my mechanic; according to the reader, the Dampener Clutch System was the problem. This morning when I took the car out, I realized that the Check Engine light went away but still could feel the transmission slipping.
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I have this info on my new F150 with the Eco. 80 deg. day pulling my dual axle 5000 lb boat 70 MPH. Temp was 199. Is this about right.
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I just purchased my new 2010 F150 CrewCab 4x4. I am getting some jumping in the transmission at low speeds. Idling to travel it seems their is slop in the transmission or drive train. Slow start and stops in traffic its really noticeable. Seems the transmission doesn't know what gear to be in.
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