My 2010 5.4 F-150 Lariat 2WD truck has 130,000 Miles on it and the gas mileage took a dive from 16.5 to 15.2. I'm over due to change the spark plugs. Are there any secrets or tricks I should know about before I get started changing them.
View 3 RepliesOk so besides intercooler condensation causing misfires this is the #1 reason for misfires on this engine. Any misfires on this engine has great potential to damage the catalyst and should not be taken lightly. As many know by now boosted engines are hard on the plugs be it iridium platinum whatever and you may find the need for new plugs by 50k miles. More so now as many are coming in with carbon tracking as this one had. In this video I walk you through the procedure to change out plugs on these engines with the revised plugs, gap specs and TSB that have all come out recently.
Ford F150 3.5L V6 Ecoboost Misfires: Spark Plug Replacement - YouTube...
This is Just an FYI. I replaced the plugs in my 2011 F-150 3.5 Ecoboostwith 50,000 miles. I had a miss under heavy acceleration. Turns out the plugs had a gap over .090" and the side electrode was burned. Replaced them and all is well.
View 8 RepliesOK, this technically isn't for the Ex (since it's a diesel), but I do need to replace the spark plugs in a Ford V8 soon. Problem is I've been running diesels for a long time and haven't really kept up with spark plugs.
Seems like there's lots to choose from now. Regular old fashioned, double tip, triple tip, platinum, kryptonite, thermo-nuclear tip, etc. Is one spark plug really any better than another, or is it all just marketing gimmicks? Is it worth spending extra for some fancy sounding spark plug?
I just picked up a 05 F150 lariat 5.4 2wd with a 177k on it. What the chances of these plugs coming out with out breaking? Any tips tricks to getting them out? Should I put motorcraft plugs back in it ?
View 6 RepliesOn 2010 150 had running lights for approx 1 year on both 4 wire and 7 wire then none. Nothing changed, Checked fuses, all ok. Checked on back side of plug, nothing. Everything else works.
View 14 RepliesI have a check engine light on which diagnosed by Autozone relates to O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Sensor 1.
I realize sensor 1 is upstream before cat converter. However, I've received varying opinions as to which side is Bank 2, driver or passenger.
2010 F150 4.6 V8, produced in 5/10
I am getting a cylinder 5 misfire and this has been a "on again off again" situation since last August. I took it around to a few places and the general solution was to get new spark plugs. After doing a bit more research I was advised to change the coil cover. I did that and it fixed the problem. Then about 4 months later the light came on again. I happened to change the air filter and the light went off. I though great, problem solved! not so much, when i went to the mountains the other day the light came back on. I did my research again and I have decided to get the plugs changed. Its a 2005 f150 with 94,500 miles on it.
I am told its time to change them regardless. I started calling around and getting quotes and have been told by multiple shops that ford made the plugs in my truck in a bad way. They have been telling me to change them and breaking them is a 50/50 shot. THEN, when they quote me they charge a rate to replace them plus the plugs themself. If they happen to break one then the customer pays for the new one. Do the plugs would really break that easy and should I plan on replacing some of them?
Recently, my CEL came on. I had the guys at Autozone read the code and they said it was the knock sensor on bank 2. I disconnected the battery to clear it but after 100 miles or so it came back on. Idling, my engine runs as quietly as it ever has (can't tell it's running if the windows are up) so I'm hoping that the sensor has gone bad. I can't hear any knock at any speed but the re-appearance of the light has noticeably affected the engine performance. Any link that even shows where the sensor is located? If I can find it, I can replace it.
View 1 RepliesSo my 2000 F250 has 182k and I am not sure when plugs were changed. Its got the 5.4. My 2001 Excursion has 102k on the v10 and I've read a few threads about blowing plugs and now I am scared out of my mind. Do I need to worry about breaking them or stripping anything?
View 6 RepliesIn order to replace the valve cover do the spark plugs have to be taken off ?
View 12 RepliesThe car is a 2010 with 65,000 miles on it. When I purchase a used car I make a habit of changing all the fluids and doing a tune up regardless of its service history.
While doing the spark plugs I found that one of the spark plug wells had about 3 inches of oil inside of it. The spark plug tube gasket had failed. I was surprised that the car was not misfiring yet.
Luckily it is just still in warranty and the dealer is fixing it at no cost to me. However most everyone will find this problem when it is too late as the service manual says not to change the spark plugs until 120,000 miles!
Got a 2013 F-150 with a start problem after warm. If I let it sit with battery disconnected it will start up. When it will not start it acts like a no spark issue.
View 1 Repliesis there a diffrent spark plug socket too take out the plugs on the 5.4 3v motor cause i tried a socket i thought would work but i wouldn't go in the spark plug hole like what gives
View 4 RepliesI was doing a tune up of my 09 camry with an 2.4L engine due to a rough idle problem i have been having , and I noticed a lot of orange colored dust in one of the 4 spark plug tubes, I mean a lot of it while the other 3 were dust free. I tried my best to clean it out and inspected the spark plugs all seems to be fine. What could be the cause of the dust?
View 9 RepliesDo the 2010 5.4 motors still have any issues like the cam phasers or the spark plugs breaking upon removal? I'm looking at a 2010 F150 4x4 but I didn't want the headaches that might go with it since it has 80k miles....
View 14 RepliesI just bought an electric tongue jack for my utility trailer. Rather than mount a battery on the trailer, I bought a jack that has a 7 way plug, so you just plug into the truck in order to power up the jack. However! My '13 Platinum F150 appears to have a very smart 7 way plug. If I plug in the trailer, everything works fine on the trailer.
If I unplug the trailer and use my tester to check the power inside the 7 way plug on the truck, there is nothing. So when I plug in the jack, which only has 2 tabs on it's 7 way male - positions 4 and 1 (positive and negative since they are red and black) it does not turn on. I wired direct to my battery from the jack 7 way plug and jack works fine.
So I'm guessing that the 7 way plug is not powered up until it senses a trailer is plugged in somehow? Is there a way to override this? Also the 4 flat on the truck was dead when I put the tester to it as well. Maybe same thing? If not, I'll have to hard wire the jack into the trailer wiring harness as a work around I suppose.
My truck has a similar rough idle and I decided to investigate. What my plug gap was supposed to be as I didn't have access to my owners manual at the time. The specs I was given (.041-.047) is what I followed and recapped my plugs .045. The idle improved a great deal.
Now I was wondering and finally got around to checking my owners manual after I read somewhere that the gap for the 5.0 changed between 12 and 13 model years. What I found in my owners manual is that the gap I'm supposed to have is from .049-.053. My plugs were out anyway at .057. I will leave them be at .045 but am wondering why the change from .041-.047 on the 2011 model years to .049-.053 on the 2012+ model years? I assume the engine hasn't changed, so am curious of the thought process.
I have added the upfitter switches to my FX4 but used all of the switches for accessories. Need to start using the round buttons but don't know the plug number/pigtail for round buttons.
What the plug number/pigtail is for the "off road/hill decent" round buttons on the raptor upfitter console? I don't want to spend money for the harness when I only need one connector. The tiny pins on the switch are too small.
I have a 2006 f150 with the 5.4 with 150k miles and I thought it was originally an exhaust leak so had that checked then thought maybe the cats went back and had that checked and after that read up on all the IWE threads and decided to replace them. Replaced them and the actuator and the problem seems worse. Now the noise is constant will accelerating. It use to be intermittent but now it's all the time unless in 4wd or coasting. What the problem could be? I know the truck is 10 years old but in great condition, everyone is surprised it's as old as it is.
View 2 RepliesHad a slight boo boo today with my truck backing out of a garage - snagged the right side (passenger side) mirror on the g-door rail and snapped the ball and socket of the mirror.
Tried to search the net for a replacement mirror and not having much luck. In locating one. I found one site but they do not carry the painted version of the mirror just the mat-plastic finish.
2009 - F150 - Lariat - Stone Green color....