Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2010 - Slow Clunking In Rear End When Turn At Low Speed
Oct 19, 2015
2010 f150 4x4... Whether I'm in 4wd or 2wd when I turn at low speed something in the rear has slow clunking but clears out after a few feet of going straight. This occurs with or without a trailer behind me. Just bought this truck a week ago m noticed it about the third time I drive it.
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2001 Santa Fe 2.7L 4wd ... In December I bought this vehicle it only has 95K on it. When I drove the car home I noticed it needed brakes so I put brand new pads and rotors on the whole way around. I changed the oil, air filter, wiper blades, and made sure all fluids were good. I had the front spring recall done and also put some new sway bar end links on the front. The car runs fine and I am rather impressed with it. It does have some rust but I'm not to worried about that. This isn't my everyday car just a winter/extra car. Recently I have been getting some clunking only when going from reverse to drive and going slow. You get a clunk..clunk pause clunk..clunk almost like you have a flat but once I get the car up to speed it is fine and you never hear it again until the car sits a day or so and then it will do it again. I don't know if I have a differential problem or a u joint or maybe something with the e brake or rear brakes? but it is -3 right now outside and I would rather know where to start so that when I can take a look at it I know some things to check or what it might be.
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For the past 4/5 weeks my truck vibrates when i brake at slow speed ex. Driving out of a parking spot, slightly braking no matter if i go forward, reverse, turn or go straight it'll vibrate, sometimes very lightly, but usually it's very noticeable, can be compared to the clutch pack issue with these trucks. I had the clutchpacks in the rear diff. replaced at 160k ,after that it drove very smooth but that only lasted 20/30k.
So when turning it'll vibrate at about 15/20 km/h, but that's because of them crappy clutch packs
truck:
2009 f150
xlt ext. cab
4x4
xtr package
6,5 ft box
5.4 L
212000 km
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I took my 2011 Lariat in for first service and reported that it sometimes tries to accelerate on its own during slowdown from high speed, eg when coming off a freeway ramp, rpms go up and vehicle wants to speed up rather than slow down. (sounds like something a Toyota would do!)
Dealer says its a known problem with 5.0L and performed a supposed fix per "TSB 11-8-9, 5.0L ENGINE BRAKING PERFORMANCE DURING LOW SPEED COAST DOWN," essentially a PCM reflash.
Happened once in a parking lot...thought the floormat was stuck on the accelerator but the pedal was clear.
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If I'm stopped and turn the wheel for a hard left turn I hear a clunking noise and the check engine light comes on, will be taking in to the dealer on Mon.
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I have just started to have this problem or what I think is a problem. When the electronic rear axle is locked and in icy conditions I am getting clunking sounds out of the rear end sometimes. Its hard to explain but it sounds like it is slipping in and out of engagement. Sometimes it works fine or what I think is fine and locks both wheels together and I get no sound at all. I switched off the traction control thinking that the sounds I was hearing were a result if it kicking in but this didn't change the sounds the rear diff is making.
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The car is at rest, engine on, when I turn the wheel (either sides), there is this popping sounds, coming out from the front suspension. It almost sounds like the Titanic moments before it fell apart... It also happens when I drive slow, like parking or backing out...etc. Doesn't happen at >10mph.
So I had my friend turned the wheel and I inspect it. I can feel the spring or something popping on the strut mount of the front wheels. SEE PICTURE.
I also uploaded a video with sound. I have sufficient tools to remove the struts and springs.
2009 LE
Video : [URL] ......
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Just purchased a 2014 Elantra Limited in August 2014. Two months later, I started having a slow leak in my right rear tire. Was manageable at first, just thought maybe it was the weather getting colder, but finally had to take it in for service and had it looked at. They said I had a nail in the INSIDE SIDEWALL, and it was not covered under warranty, so I had to buy a new tire.
Within a month of buying the first new tire, my right FRONT tire started doing the same thing. Now, I'm having to fill it every day. Just scheduled another service appointment to have it looked at.
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What should my idle speed be ? 2010 F150 4.6 2v, 4spd auto. Did not see anything under the hood on the stickers, maybe I missed it.
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I am trying to fix the rear drum brakes on my girlfriends 2010 corolla. So I replaced everything (everything is new) and i took it for a drive to find some SERIOUS rear vibration and clunking. I tried adjusting the rear pads and everything.
The clunking/vibration does not happen in reverse. I don't know what to do to fix this. I have tried the self adjusting e-brake in reverse method.
-clunking happen both when applying the brake pedal and the e brake while going forward
-clunking and low speeds and major vibrations at high speeds all while braking
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I understand why the electric fan kicks on when it does, but it seems that there is no reason for it come on at times. (For example, after sitting all day at work, climbing into it and starting. The temp gauge still reading well below operating temp, fan comes on.
And side note, this has got to be one of the loudest electric cooling fans I have ever heard. Sounds like a turboprop pulled up beside me for take off.... Should I investigate further (thermostat, Fan relay, etc) or is this pretty normal.
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Weird thing yesterday, noticed a rotational tick sound coming from the right rear wheel during slow backing up with the windows down. Sounded like debris stuck between the dust shield and the rotor. Had that tinny sound. Anyway, no dealer around in the town I was at. Closest is over two hours away and not in the direction of home which was four hours away.
I was visiting friends, and decided to jack the truck up and pull the wheel off and clear whatever debris was stuck in there. Pulled the wheel and didn't see anything. Rotated the hub and could still hear the noise. I pulled the caliper next and made sure nothing was in there. There wasn't. Ok, must be in behind the disc in the parking brake shoe area and making contact with the dust shield. I pulled the caliper mount and then the rotor. Still didn't see any debris or anything foreign. What I did see was a bunch of metal filings on the inner side of the brake shoes all around the backing plate. Also a fair amount of metal filings in the drum portion of the rotor.
Rotated the hub again, and noticed the noise coming from the retaining pin cap on the rear most shoe. It was rubbing against the backside of the hub. As the hub rotated the cap spun and made noise as the spring gave way and turned. This made sense for the noise and the metal filings. The cap was still in place and the pin was not being touched yet by the back of the hub. I reassembled it all and decided the further drive home was not going cause more harm than what was already done.
Dropped off at my local dealer this morning and explained the above. The technician confirmed it as well, and ordered the a new retaining pin. Some how it got out of tolerance and caused itself to be longer than it should have. The tolerance appeared close from the front side shoe that was not rubbing.
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So i just had installed a brand new set of bilsetin pss9. Going over bumps or pot holes at a slow speed, i get loud clunking out the back. Did not have this prior to the coilovers. Its dropped almost 3/4 of the thread. What this is? Also the shop that installed them, had put them in with out the rear upper spring plate, is that a standard install on these?
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I can't believe how rusty my rear end is with 17000 miles? It's not flaking off rusty but it's not black anymore, is this bad ? I was thinking of painting it , but not sure if it's worth it????
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OK; I give up. How do I check the trans. fluid level on my 2010 F150 6 spd. auto trans????? I see that there is NOT a dipstick in the engine compartment.
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I have a 2010 F-150 which has a problem that the dealer cannot figure out. When I leave the heater/air on when I shut the truck off upon restart the heater/air is off. The heater/air will turn on if I restart the truck within a few minutes but if it is left for say 15mins it seems the truck forgets where the heater switch was upon shut down. This causes a huge problem for my remote starter as the selection I need does not come on after leaving the vehicle for a time.
The codes for the truck are OK according to the dealer.
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Yesterday the truck run Perfect. Got home and shut it off. This morning I get I. Turn key and the truck will crank but not start. After it tries to start the oil light comes on. I Che ked the oil and it was 2.5 its low. Added oil and it still isn't starting! 2010 f150 5.4l ....
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Both my rear doors in my 2010 F150 supercrew wont open from the outside. Was wondering, is there was a DIY fix?
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Just got a 2010 lariat supercrew...I put 1900 miles on it so far. When slowly letting off the accelerator (doing between 20-30 mph and between 1000-1500 rpm) there is a distinct rubbing sound for about 1-2 seconds...it is now sounding more like grinding now...took it to the shop today...(they couldn't duplicate (because service rep documented 60 mph instead of the 20-30 mph...went back at the end of the day to ride with the tech, and i was able to duplicate so now they have something to work with....also the noise happens mostly when the path of travel is either level road or slight to great incline..it has not happened on a down slope....
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I just purchased a used 2010 fx2 screw with 5.4 and 6-speed auto. How can I find out what rear gear ratio the truck has? do I have to contact a dealer to find this out or are their any web based sites that can decode the vin? Is the gear ratio marked on the truck anywhere?
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I was loading some 2x4's and one hit the rear tail light housing and broke it easily. Hard to believe it broke so easy. Will be picking up a new one at the dealer! Wish it was made out of high impact plastic . You can't just get the clear cover. You have the buy the whole unit.
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