Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2010 - Rusty Rear End
Aug 14, 2012
I can't believe how rusty my rear end is with 17000 miles? It's not flaking off rusty but it's not black anymore, is this bad ? I was thinking of painting it , but not sure if it's worth it????
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Ok, so I have a brand new 2011 F150 SCrew EB direct from the factory. It's about a week or so old and I have almost 700 miles on it. It is garaged all the time while at home...
So I was looking under the front end just checking things out...getting to "know" my new truck (which by the way I love) and everything looks new and great underneath...nice new painted surfaces...metal etc until I see...the knuckles behind each of the front wheels are starting to rust. I'm assuming these are cast iron but why would they not paint these?!
I mean, everything else is painted and looks great but then you see the rusting knuckles underneath?? AM I missing something here...is this normal? For all of you who own the same truck, have you seen the same thing?
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Both my rear doors in my 2010 F150 supercrew wont open from the outside. Was wondering, is there was a DIY fix?
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Just got a 2010 lariat supercrew...I put 1900 miles on it so far. When slowly letting off the accelerator (doing between 20-30 mph and between 1000-1500 rpm) there is a distinct rubbing sound for about 1-2 seconds...it is now sounding more like grinding now...took it to the shop today...(they couldn't duplicate (because service rep documented 60 mph instead of the 20-30 mph...went back at the end of the day to ride with the tech, and i was able to duplicate so now they have something to work with....also the noise happens mostly when the path of travel is either level road or slight to great incline..it has not happened on a down slope....
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I just purchased a used 2010 fx2 screw with 5.4 and 6-speed auto. How can I find out what rear gear ratio the truck has? do I have to contact a dealer to find this out or are their any web based sites that can decode the vin? Is the gear ratio marked on the truck anywhere?
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2010 f150 4x4... Whether I'm in 4wd or 2wd when I turn at low speed something in the rear has slow clunking but clears out after a few feet of going straight. This occurs with or without a trailer behind me. Just bought this truck a week ago m noticed it about the third time I drive it.
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I was loading some 2x4's and one hit the rear tail light housing and broke it easily. Hard to believe it broke so easy. Will be picking up a new one at the dealer! Wish it was made out of high impact plastic . You can't just get the clear cover. You have the buy the whole unit.
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2010 f150 supercrew fx4
While driving down the highway yesterday at about 65mph I went to change lanes. As I was changing lanes I gave it a little gas. About half way through the lane change truck jerked like I had just been rear ended. I immediately checked my mirrors to see if I changed lanes in front of some body. No one was around. Truck still ran the same. Everything I'be read seems like similar thing happen to others at slower speed.
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My wife's 2010 Lariat, has a problem with the heater switch. Its stuck in one speed.
Also the rear defogger switch doesn't light up. We don't know if the switch to it is just bad, OR if the whole system is bad.
Was also wondering if the blend door would be bad??
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We have a "new" 2010 F150 with factory sunroof & power sliding rear window. Well like the post title says, it'll open but not close.
I took apart the switch & cleaned the contacts - it all looks and fits together as it should. I went ahead and removed the cables controlling the window slider frame to close it. I'm guessing the motor is somewhere behind the back seats?
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What are some pros/cons you have with yours? Both 5.4 supercabs xlt im looking at just cant decide. The 09 has a overall higher rating but its not to much more.
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my rear bumper is pretty much eaten up, too.
How difficult is this to replace?
Good source for rear bumpers? Just something stock; don't need anything wild, crazy, lighted, etc.
It's a work/hunting/fishing/hauling truck. That's all.
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have an 04 f150 that is starting to show some rust in the rear wheel wells. Right now there is just a bit of rust where the painted panel is seamed to the inner panel around the arch, but I can see small spots where the paint is starting to bubble about an inch out on the outside of the panel. I want to keep this thing looking nice for a few more years; what should I do?
I'm a very good welder, can hold my own when turning wrenches, have done lots of metal fabrication as well as painting with a cup gun, but I have very little autobody experience.
I am thinking there is rust between the inner and outer panels and that removing the surface rust and repainting would be a very temporary repair, correct? Could I cover it up with some sort of wheel well liner? If so, how to I slow the existing rust? Is there any sort of partial preformed steel panel/well that allow you to cut off the rusty stuff and weld new stuff on? I'm a little leary of the last thought- I could do the fabbing, but not sure how I'd do getting it back to 'smooth'
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Why can't ford use stailess steel sheet mental screws on the floor trim pice where door meets car. My 2010 Ranger the screws on taht trim piece have rusted already and I have drill them out and replaced them. In order to clean under the floor matting or remove trim piece. .
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A Water gets into wheel hubs much easier with aftermarket wheels than OEM wheels. I have a set of BBS RS-GT wheels and this is what the rear hub looks like after about a year. Previously I noticed with OEM wheels there is just a little surface rust. Hopefully I won't need to remove in the future as it looks welded.
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It's happened the last two times I've washed the car. I thoroughly cleaned the wheels with Sonax followed by soapy water, then washed the rest of the car. After washing, my usual routine is an initial towel dry, then I take the car for a short drive to shake the excess water out of crevices & the wheels, followed by the final towel dry & detailing.
This is happening on all four wheels. I know my front rotors are nearing their end of life, but the rears should have plenty of life in them (45K miles).
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My c is about 5 12 months old now, and the rear brake drums are already covered in rust.
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For the second time in the last 24 months, my rear defroster doesn't seem to be working. The first time I took it into the dealer and under warranty, they had to replace the entire rear window. The side view mirror defrosters still worked and they still work now. It just seems that the rear isn't working again and this time my warranty has run out.
Should I take it back to the dealer and hope they honor their work? My 3yr/36k expired 4 months ago. How could I even test that it is working? I've only had to use it 2 or 3x since last Feb. and that's when I noticed it doesn't seem to be working. I only had to use it for short trips so the main defroster in the cab eventually defrosted the rear window. The weather is warmer so now I won't have as many chances to have it fogged up.
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Picked up new truck on Thursday, drove it on the hwy for the first time today and it feels like rear end is bouncing. Truck has 150 miles. I'm hoping it's just balacing that it needs, taking it back to dealer on Monday.
2014 F150 Limited 4WD.
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I want to install seat covers in my new 2012 screw, and I was wondering if there is a way to fold down the seat backs of the rear seat. It would definitely make the installation easier. The dealer unfortunately had no idea. I looked and tried, but have not been successful.
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I have a 2012 f150 supercrew ecoboost with 6,000 miles on it. I just took it into the dealer for a clinking noise from the rear end. It happens when shifting between D and R and during dowshifting at low speeds. They said that ford is aware of this noise but does not have a fix yet.
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