2010 / 5.4... Attempting to trace the oil leak... thought it was power steering high pressure line but now I think that's just dirty from oil leaking through rad & blowing onto the steering line below. Looks like difficult to replace - anything I need to be cautious / aware of that's replaced a rad before?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2010 fx4 150. I have a water leak threw my sunroof?
View 1 RepliesMy 2010 F-150 Lariat 5.4L 2WD Ext Cab with 76,000 miles is leaking power steering fluid. I traced it down to the cooling coil in between the radiator and the transmission cooler. It does not look easy or cheap to get out of there. Stop leak scares me a bit...
View 14 RepliesI have a 2010 F-150 FX4 SC 4x4 5.4l w/ automatic that has 52,000 miles on the clock give or take, unmodified with the only exception of a remote oil filter relocation unit.
I bought the truck with 48,000 on it and did not have this noise, I've had it back to the dealer and their best mechanic went for a ride with me and the noise was duplicated and the mechanic had the deer in the headlight look on his face and said he'd never heard anything like that before. I've searched the net for anything similar like this but have not found anything. The noise rears it's ugly head after the truck is warmed up and it first started around 55mph and went away at 65mph , then re-emerged at 75mph and left again at 82mph.
Tried the usual test things while noise was present first loading and unloading the steering left and right, (wheel bearing) no change. Next I applied the brakes (caliper rubbing) no change. Then I tried shifting to neutral (transmission or carrier bearing) no change. I also tried shifting into and out of 4x4 (transfer case) no change. If I speed up above those speeds or slow down below them, the noise disappears.
Recently... the noise seems to be more consistent and when it's present at 80mph and you let off the throttle, the noise is present all the way down to 55mph then magically goes away. The noise to me sounds like a vacuum leak in a rubber hose or a dry spinning shaft in a bushing, sort of a low hum that sounds like it's coming anywhere from the motor to the transmission area.
I have just purchased a 2010 FX4 5.4l on 5/4 and just found a leak coming from above the passenger side frame horn. It looks like it may be from the condensor but im not 100 percent certain. It is an odorless oil not condensate. It is a slow drip that i found after running the truck for a short time. the puddle it left was about the size of a bottom of a drinking glass.
View 4 RepliesMy 2012 F150 has these rubber sheets between the grill and radiator. In the attached photo you can see them between the headlight and radiator.
One of 4 sheets inside the engine compartment. See the sheets just inside the headlights.
They appear to be there to direct air from the grill through the radiator. These sheets have already decayed/torn and need to be replaced.
My rig is a 2013 5.0 extended cab. Seems to me that there is some "wasted space" at the front end between the bumper/grille and the radiator. I'm thinking that some sheet metal/expanded metal work or maybe some fiberglass formed to fit that the space could make a neat storage area for stuff like jumper cables, an emergency road side kit and other stuff.
View 4 RepliesHaving problem with the lower radiator hose rubbing on the serpentine belt...
View 1 RepliesI just bought a used 09 yaris, 5 speed manual tranny. There seems to be a small coolant leak on the top hose coming from the radiator, the one that connects to a plastic flange or adapter and then go's to the engine block. The car does not get hot and it drive fine except it leaks at that spot. I try using a regular hose clamp and still leaked. Is the thermostat not opening up or is the water pump intermittent stopping? or something like that. Or maybe the hose itself is bad. Since this is a used car who knows what the previous owner did, I might change out the hose over the weekend and replace all the coolant to the correct Toyota long life system. to be on the safe side.
View 3 RepliesI have had an exhaust leak under the hood of my 09' F150, XLT, 4.6 3V for some time now and decided to get it checked out. I took to the local stealer and as i suspected its the manifolds. There are 4 studs on the left and one stud on the right sheared off. Ford quoted $1400 for replacing both mainfolds and extracting the broken studs. This would give me the exact same manifolds that were on the truck from the factory and started leaking at 78,000 miles.
So I decided to take the truck to a local speed shop that I have used in the past for other things. The mechanic there said to just buy a high quality set of stainless headers, stage 8 locking fasteners, and copper gaskets. He will install. I went with JBA shortys from AutoAnything.com and the mentioned hardware from Jegs.
So basically for around $100 more I get headers that probably will last the life of the truck. I am quite displeased with the exhaust issues that Ford has had and known about for over 20 years. The service manager at Ford said they replace manifolds with broken studs on a regular basis. He also said it was a wise choice to go with the headers instead of the manifolds even though they will not install them. That says a lot about the confidence of the Ford service department in their parts and vehicle designs.
Its a little sad that a 6 year old truck with only 78,000 miles....
So after remotely starting my truck on a cold morning, I walk up to the vehicle and notice a small puddle of water near the middle of the truck (not near the engine where the A/C usually drips), and I can also hear a slight ticking noise that I never heard before. I stoop down and can see water dripping from the exhaust (I think off the back of the resonator?). I snap a few pics and decide I'll take a closer look later, but curiously when I return from my drive, the leak and noise are gone.
With 76K miles on the truck, is it possible I've developed a pinhole sized perforation or leak in the factory exhaust system (or maybe there's a loose fitting) that is only present when the engine is cold, but "seals" itself up once the engine is warm and the metal has expanded? I only see the water puddle and hear the noise when remotely starting the truck on cold mornings, never on warm days or after driving around town.
What are some pros/cons you have with yours? Both 5.4 supercabs xlt im looking at just cant decide. The 09 has a overall higher rating but its not to much more.
View 6 Replies I currently own a 2009 F-150 XLT, ext. cab, 4X4, 4.6l, 6R80 trans. Surprise, Surprise I have just developed an exhaust leak at the manifold collector. After some careful investigation, I separated the pipe from the manifold and the sealing surface is totally rotted away. I cleaned it up as best as I could and slathered some muffler cement inside the joint to seal the leak. It is about 80% better but will get worse again I'm sure.
I visited my local Ford dealer and talked to a friend I have working there and he said Ford has known about quality issues with manifolds for years and he was surprised that the manifolds lasted 70k miles.
I am hoping to use the truck as is through the winter and in the spring I am going to install these headers:JBA Headers - Reviews on JBA Cat4ward Exhaust Headers - Stainless, Ceramic & Chrome Finishes
This intake:K&N 63 Series AirCharger High Flow Cold Air Intake Kits Best Price & Reviews
This tuner:Bully Dog Triple Dog GT Tuner (49-State Legal) - Bully Dog GT Tuner Reviews on Gas Programs for Dodge, Chevy, Ford & Nissan Trucks
I already installed a Flowmaster American thunder catback exhaust system about a year ago...
about a week ago I popped both of the passenger side tires By hitting a rather tall curb while trying to avoid being t-boned. And I have had the passenger side jacked up for about a week now while waiting for the shop to order and get in my new rims. It has been raining here for the past week so I only just noticed today that there was a puddle underneath of my truck.
It looks and feels like engine oil but it is leaking from the back of my transmission. I can't figure what it might be because transmission fluid is red and my transmission has never overheated So it should not be burned. It has 128k miles on it so it also only has 8k miles on the last fluid change. So it's fairly new fluid. What this could be?
I know some seal is obviously broken and the way everything is wet around just the back bottom of the transmission it looks like it is coming from the transmission. I originally thought it was just the transfer case got hit and it could be a bushing at either the transfer case or transmission but there is no scraping on anything under the truck so none of it was hit or damaged from that. What could be causing this?
Towing my Jeep/ trailer today I was flagged to the side of the road and advised of a massive plume of smoke trailing me... As soon as I popped the hood, I was greeted with the unmistakable smell of burning oil and a smoke screen like something off James Bond. After the billowing smoke cleared, I was able to pull off the engine cover and found a massive puddle of oil along the passenger side intake manifold??? I cannot locate the source of the leak yet? The driver side is bone dry. One other odd thing, when the engine was running I pulled the oil fill cap and there was a significant vacuum - is that normal? I do have a UPR dual catch can with CSS if for some reason that makes a difference???
View 14 RepliesLooking for tsb 11-11-05 for the a/c condensate leak on the passenger side?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2011 SCREW Eco-Boost with a build date in April 2011. I have a gravel driveway. When I first got the truck I noticed small dark spots in the gravel but attributed it to the A/C. I parked over some fresh snow the other night and found some fluid stain on the ground in the morning. It was kind of by the motor and then a little further back. It was the color of yellow/chartruse antifreeze but the truck has pink antifreeze in the overflow tank. What is going on?
View 7 RepliesNew issue this week - truck developed a leak from the pinion seal. I'm not sure how much has leaked out, so I would like to top it off before limping to the dealership.
From the manual: "Motorcraft SAE 75W-140 Rear Synthetic Axle Lubricant" There is also a footnote for friction modifier required for a Trans-Loc rear diff. Assuming that footnote refers to an LSD and NOT the E-Locker, should be able to top off with just the fluid, correct?
I am a die hard for Truck fan but am really disappointed with the overall quality of the truck. I bought it new and now with 30k, I've had it in twice to have rotors turned, once for transmission getting stuck in 5th and needed a new molded leadframe assembly, and now the pinion leak. All fixed under warranty, however really unacceptable for a truck with this low of miles and an easy life.
2009 f150 4x4. My front hubs are ratcheting, I probably have a vacuum leak somewhere. Any trick to find it? I had to drive about 90 kilometers to get home, hope I didn't ruin anything. I don't have a vacuum pump, but I have a vacuum gauge.
View 1 RepliesI recently purchased a 2009 FX4 Supercrew. So far so good, other than I am just noticing stains on the headliner near the back window. Looking at TSB 12-4-4, it looks like the truck has the leaky third brake light issue - or had it in the past. Of course I am beyond the factory warranty, but I was wondering if there was a way to tell if the previous owner had this resolved? Is it common, even if it was addressed previously, that the seal could go bad on this light again?
View 5 RepliesMy 2014 F150 has been in 5 times now for a leak issue and I'm tired of it. I get a water leak in the passenger rear corner of the headliner that makes a big wet stain in the headliner. It rained all day yesterday and now the drivers side rear is wet. The dealer has resealed the rake light, changed to an "upgraded" gasket, sealed again, sealed the top roof trim, sent the truck out to have the rear window removed and resealed...and its still leaking...if anything worse now.
The gasket Ford uses is clearly not the right answer as it's sub par, and Id rather not use silicon as I've heard it can damage paint and even the metal eventually. Is there a permanent fix for this? I'll do it myself so it just gets fixed right...5 times at the dealer is enough! I'd buy a light like a Recon or something if I knew it would fix this leak issue for good. Wondering what others have done. This is a brand new truck with under 10,000 miles on it and I've been fighting this crap since I had 500 miles on it. It's literally unbelievable!