Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2010 - Noise In Driver Door When Driving
Feb 17, 2011
We were coming home today from a 300 mile trip and we were heading into a 40mph head wind. Anyway we start to here a clicking sound in the driver's door like something is blowing around in there. It sounds like a piece of metal hitting on metal or like a small rock blowing around in there. Tick, tick, tick, it about drives me crazy. I have an appointment at the dealer tomorrow and hope it continues for them. Ever have that happen when something is going on with your vehicle and take it to the dealer and it doesn't do it. 2010 Lariat....
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2011 Scab truck when driving over rough stuff drivers side door sounds like its cracked open when its not...never liked clamshell doors wished they would have went with mini doors like Dodge....
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I purchased a new 2011 F-150 Lariat, Ecoboost, SCrew, 4x4 last weekend. I love the truck. It is very comfortable, the Ecoboost has been incredible, and the ride is very nice. I am looking forward to towing my ATVs after I hit 1000 miles.
Yet, I have one problem. I get an incredible amount of wind noise and wind whistle from what appears to be the driver's door. I read other posts about wind noises and wind whistles (e.g., bug shield), but they do do not apply to me.
I'm planning on dropping it off at the dealership this week for them to take a look at.
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I have a '12 SCAB that when opening the driver door the weatherstrip on the door near the front fender, which seals against the pillar squeaks each time you open and close it. Makes the truck sound 20 years old. It appears the weatherstrip is binding on itself instead of just slipping past. I understand it gets dirty and cleaning it will work, but only for a day or so. I've checked the orientation of the weatherstrip with new trucks and its in the correct position.
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The driver side door of my 2009 f150 won't lock, not with the remote nor with the button inside the truck,also not when the truck goes over 20 km/h, however the driver side door works perfectly fine....
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I just bought a new to me, '09 F-150 4X4. It is plush on the inside and didn't have too many miles on it. One thing that was lacking in the owners manual or any other material in the owners package was the code to unlock the doors. The local Ford dealer wants to charge to get the code for me. I was told there was a site one could go in the internet, plug in some information about the vehicle and the code would be displayed.
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My drivers side door just started clicking when opening or shutting ...
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2009 XLT.. rear drivers side door is locked and closed. Master lock button, remote button and keypad all function and make the manual lock rod go up and down as it should. Both the interior and exterior door handles move freely, as if the door were properly locked, but regardless of the lock position neither will open the door.
I dismantled the door from the inside as best I could and can see all cables and rods are intact down to the actuator mechanism. Pretty sure something inside the actuator is messed up, but how do I get the door open to get at the screws needed to remove the actuator?? If I need to pry the actuator apart, what am I looking for (or more acurately, feeling around for) to release the door latch??
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Can I swap doors from an XLT to an XL without a lot of trouble? Are the needed wires and connectors for the P/W, P/L and P/M in the main wiring harness under the dash? What possible problems will I run into?
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got in the truck tonight and she is blowing nothing but cold out the drivers side but the passenger side works as advertised for temp settings. I have been trying to see if there is a self test mode like the earlier year trucks have to see if there is a code. She is dual zone climate/digital so its an EATC if I am not mistaken. I have tried power cycle, pulled and re-installed climate fuse after inspecting. Tried some of the earlier year self test button combinations to no avail. I did notice if I hit defrost a few times after hitting the power and defrost that the temps would go all 00 but I don't know if that is what I am looking for. I probably know my answer which includes tearing out the dash but how to proceed. Bought her with an aftermarket power train warranty so electronics are off the table for warranty. I know the stealership will charge out the rear to fix it too. All signs so far point to a blend door which is not good at all.
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Both my rear doors in my 2010 F150 supercrew wont open from the outside. Was wondering, is there was a DIY fix?
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I recently acquired a 2011 F150 Platinum. Nice truck! It has the automatic deploying running boards. They're nice but one problem: the driver side board takes about 15-17 seconds to retract after closing the door. This is way too long a time. The passenger side retracts after only 2-4 seconds, which is good. The dealer researched this to see if there is any way to adjust the driver side, but found nothing. I'd like the driver side running board to retract sooner after closing the door, like the passenger side.
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On three different occasions in the past month I noticed air bag light on in my 13 supercrew. Code comes up as B0091 drivers door crash sensor. This truck was bought new and only has 13000 miles on it so my gut is telling me it's something to do with the harness that is at the door hinge. I've carefully inspected the wires and do not see any obvious broken wires but that doesn't mean one of the wires isn't breaking on the inside.
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2010 F150 XLT ... Front driver side door speaker goes from working fine, to crackling, to cutting out. It`s been doing this since the day I bought it. I've had a local audio company tell me they have seen a few new Ford with that problem.
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2010 Ford F-150 Lariat crew cab ... Is there any way to adjust the door on the passenger side? It is not close all the way. When it rains hard it gets in the cab.
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I have a 2010 F 150, it's a work truck. Every time I open the door all the parking lights interior lights cargo lights go on like a Christmas tree. Is there a way to program this truck so when you open the door all these lights do not come on.?
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How to remove the drivers side airbag on a 2010 f-150, a deer jumped out at my truck and set off the airbag which now needs replacing besides the body work
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I have a problem with my Lariat blowing cold air on the driver's side. It happened last weekend when it was snowing hard and drove around town for a couple hours with defrost on. After I got out on the interstate the cold air was blowing in through the vent on the driver's door and down by my feet. It was -4 driving home. I though that some ice may have gotten in and jammed a damper open allowing cold air in. I took the truck in and thawed it out and the same thing happens. Cold air out of drivers side and hot air out of the passengers side. The truck has the dual heat/cool setup and it seems as if the driver's side is stuck on cold but I have it set on just driver. It was only -25 this morning.
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I have a 2010 F150 SCREW with 4.6l 3v 4wd. Up to 100,000 miles nothing more than tires, brakes, and evap purge valve (50,000 miles). Check engine light came on right around 100,000 miles and had no driving problems other than some crappy fuel mileage. Did the following:
Changed evap purge valve, reset cpu by unplugging. CEL came back on after about 200 miles
Took the truck to a shop to get oil change, change plugs, diff fluids, transfer case fluid and get CEL looked at. Shop recommended changing intake gasket as you could see gummy type fluid on passenger side valve cover. When removing the intake found the intake cracked, changed gasket and intake. They reset the light. 200 to 250 miles later the CEL came back on.
Took it back to the same shop, left it with them for the weekend. they think it could be the O2 sensors. I went out and got the shop all 4 O2 sensors and they installed for free (seeing as I spent $2500 with them for all the previous weekends work) 200 to 250 miles CEL came back on
Determined to find time to have another shop look at the problem and trying to get it to a family friend, wasted about a month. At the end of February stopped at a friends house after being there for 20 minutes tried to start truck, it wouldn't fire. It would crank but no fire. Called for a tow and while waiting tried to crank the truck and it fired up, like nothing was wrong. Cancelled the tow truck and drove right to dealership. They determined it was the MAF sensor. Spent the $500 to have them diagnose and change MAF. All things good for about a month and about 3000 miles...
Now in the past 2 weeks it has done the following: I am a construction manager so i am in and out of my truck all day so the engine is never really a cold start except for the mornings when driving to work, it stalled while leaving work on a Friday at low speed. luckily I was able to pull in to a gas station. Tried to restart and it cranked but no fire. after 5 minutes or so tried again, fired up drove home the 35 miles with no problem, truck had power, smooth idle. No CEL.
Same weekend on Sunday, coming home from church at highway speed truck got sluggish, wrench light came on, no response to throttle. Rolled to a stop and then the oil light came on and chime from dash. Turned the key all the way off waited 10 seconds, again crank but no start. Waited 5 minutes and it fired up no problem. Church is only 3 or 4 miles away, no problem going to church, 2 miles into the trip home is when it stalled.
Drove all week, 500 plus miles without a stall or problem
Coming home on Saturday from my kids soccer game again 4 or 5 miles away (no problem going to game) truck stalled at highway speed. Coast to a stop, wrench comes on and then oil light, chimes from dash. Turn key off, wrench and oil light do not come back on. Try to start, again crank but no fire. waited the 5 minutes or so and it fired up fine. (Earlier in the day i got gas, 87 octane, from a one of my regular gas stations from 1/4 tank to full)
Today coming home from church but running an errant the truck stalls after making a left turn about 3 miles from the church at low speed.
All of this without a CEL. What can solve this problem. Clean a sensor? clean throttle body? Gas tank additives? I am due for an oil change and may ask the dealer to look at it but its going to be time consuming as I cant radially repeat the problem and there is no CEL. As I am thinking about the different times it stalled, other than the first time I was probably around 1900 to 2300 rpm.
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The drivers seat heat on my 2010 F-150 stopped working. The passengers side works fine. When I press the button on the dash, it lights for 2-3 seconds, then goes out. I have been looking around all weekend for a fix. I found many posts, but they are older and the equipment I'm seeing on my 2010 F-150 looks different. I found the wires coming from the heating pad. I was going to try and test for continuity but the wires have a plastic fitting and I can't get contact to the wires. I found a diagram on Foreparts.com showing that the heated seat control module is part # 14C724. I was able to locate on the passengers side, but not on the drivers side so I wasn't able to swap and see if that was the problem.
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The 6 button powercode remote start and alarm will shut the engine down if you open the door after remote starting.
Here is the fix, I found it somewhere else. It's nice doing stuff yourself that the dealer tells you it cant be done.
open the drivers door
turn on the ignition
hold the program/override button for 15 sec (horn will chirp 3 times)
press the override button again horn will chirp 4 times
" " horn will chirp 5 times
" " horn will chirp 6 times
" " horn will chirp 7 times
" " horn will chirp 8 times letting you know you are in option bank 5.
press the panic button on the fob horn will chirp once
" " chirp twice
" " chirp three times
" " chirp 4 times
" " chirp 5 times
press the lock button on the fob once...your led alarm light will now be off.
Turn off the ignition
you are done
Enjoy
Activate the remote start open the door(smile) just don't press the brake before you put key in ignition and turn.
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