Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2010 - Light Brown Coolant?
May 3, 2013
just had a question about my trucks coolant bought it used from a dealership a month ago and the coolant was fine i recently was checking everything today and saw that the coolant was a light brown with what looks like dirt floating in it. It smells like normal coolant there's no oil in the reservoir, not milky or sludgy just a light brown truck is running at normal temperatures ac and heat work and it has only 26k miles
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2010 F-150 5.4L 3V gas, 6 speed auto, 2WD.
I got a Bully Dog GT Platinum Gas with plans to purchase a tune from 5starturning. Was messing around and loaded the built in 05-10 Ford Gas tune in Bully Dog... all went well.
Take it for a drive around and next thing I see is my check engine light is on so back to the house and revert back to the factory file... again, all went well.
No such luck; still have the check engine light and the Bully Dog says there are no DTC codes. Needless to say, I'm a bit freaked out.
I have tried uninstalling the Bully Dog tune and reverting to factory file and still no luck.
I think I would feel better about it if I could just find some comment saying "this is common just unhook the battery and reset and go on your merry way".
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i have a 2010 f-150. during the day normal sunshine the gauge area is to dark to see any unless you put your head down close to the steering wheel.at night when the lights are on it is just great. At dusk the lights on the dash come on by them self. is there something i can do to have them on all the time i have good eyes & do not wear glasses.
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I have a 2010 F 150, it's a work truck. Every time I open the door all the parking lights interior lights cargo lights go on like a Christmas tree. Is there a way to program this truck so when you open the door all these lights do not come on.?
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Today, I was greeted by a big red STOP! warning from my 2000 Passat 6 cylinder. The car drove fine last night. The coolant reservoir appears empty and has brown residue all over the inside. I notice for the first time that there is pink fluid on the floor -- I'm assuming this is the G12 coolant.
It's not a hot day, so I put in distilled water, turn up the heat and drive my Passat (trying to stay under 2k rpm) down to the dealer. They say that the coolant from the oil cooler leaked into the oil (and presumably, vice-versa).
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I was loading some 2x4's and one hit the rear tail light housing and broke it easily. Hard to believe it broke so easy. Will be picking up a new one at the dealer! Wish it was made out of high impact plastic . You can't just get the clear cover. You have the buy the whole unit.
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My wife's 2010 Lariat, has a problem with the heater switch. Its stuck in one speed.
Also the rear defogger switch doesn't light up. We don't know if the switch to it is just bad, OR if the whole system is bad.
Was also wondering if the blend door would be bad??
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What are some pros/cons you have with yours? Both 5.4 supercabs xlt im looking at just cant decide. The 09 has a overall higher rating but its not to much more.
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2014 fx4 6.2. Had a coolant leak. Brought to dealer for warranty work. Found a leak in middle lower tube area. Said they replaced radiator part # BL3Z-8005-D. It sure looks like my old radiator still under the hood complete with squished bugs. Am I missing something?
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If you have a coolant leak at the y hose for the intake manifold and the thermostat, make sure you replace the upper radiator hose as well as the y hose.
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I replaced a water pump on a customers 2013 5.0L truck this week. The bearing was totally shot and lost all the coolant. Truck only had 46000 miles on it, is this common?
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Experiencing cooling problems with a truck this new? My 2 month old supercrew 5.0 began over heating on a road trip last week. After about 400 miles of driving I see coolant temp start climbing until the overheating warning popped up. Pulled over, turned engine off, popped the hood and did not notice any obvious signs of overheating. Ended up waiting about 15 minutes, started truck up again, temp gauge reading 1/2.
Get back on the road, within 5 min temp starts climbing again, reaches ~ 3/4 then all of a sudden returns to 1/2. Continue on 10 min later temp gauge climbs from 1/2 to overheating quickly. I pulled over again same situation no obvious signs of overheating, but allow sometime to cool off. Started truck again temp gauge reads 1/2. Continue driving and temp gauge seems possessed, going from 1/2 to 3/4 back to 1/2 to almost overheating as I nursed it to the next dealer that I could find.
Dealer tech was able to mimic the problem and believes that coolant is not flowing properly. Thermostat replaced, water pump pulled and inspected, air bleed out of the system, all with no improvement. Now heads are being pulled/replaced to see if this solves the problem. Its depressing to have my new truck with 2,382 miles sitting under the knife at the dealer.
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I have a leak underneath the rear right passenger door. I see some type of pan underneath there but don't know what it is. How to identify what this could be? This is 2011 Hatchback.
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I am following the 7,500 maintenance intervals for oil and filter changes. At about 3,000 miles the color of the oil was golden brown but definitely had started to turn brown but still had a golden tint. Is light brown oil normal for 5,000 miles? The oil level is OK and still near the Full mark.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Camry LE that I recently took in for service (oil change). The car has about 95000 miles on it. After I drove it home and used it I now see a small pool of a light brown viscous liquid under the car. The liquid is not odorless. Its got what I can only describe as a 'chemically'smell. The drip is happening near the front end of the car. What could this be? Is this something that needs immediate fixing? Am I putting my family as risk if I don't attend to this right away?
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I have 2010 FX4 with 76,000 miles, 5.4L with automatic trans and the console shifter. Problem is, lately it doesn't always want to come out of Park when I try to go somewhere. I know that the brake pedal needs to be pushed in order to release the lock on the shifter. If I pump the pedal a couple of times it seems to release the lock eventually. Is there a brake pressure switch that actuates the lock or a switch on the pedal that needs to be made to release the lock? I have tried to search on here for a fix with no luck.
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I'm having a problem with my 2010 F150 4x4. I'm a mail carrier and when I'm stopped at mail boxes my truck flutters and and acts like it's not getting gas or not getting fire. If I give it gas it goes on. It may do this 1 time a day or 100 times a day. My check engine light has come on and then after awhile it will go off. The Ford dealership thinks it is an oil pressure problem but the oil pressure gauge doesn't drop when this happens.
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I drove the truck yesterday and a few miles from the house i noticed the air conditioning wasn't working. After realizing it wasn't working i turned it off and continued on my 30 minute drive. When i arrived to my destination i opened the hood and watched the A/C compressor pulley as the wife turned the A/C on. The clutch was working as it should, and the engine rpm increased slightly with the load of the A/C as usual. The air coming from the vents was not cooled at all.
After talking with a few people at work they seem to think it's a mechanical issue, ie: the heater core isn't switching the louver from heat to A/C. I am going to do some investigating this weekend and will post my results.
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2010 / 5.4... Attempting to trace the oil leak... thought it was power steering high pressure line but now I think that's just dirty from oil leaking through rad & blowing onto the steering line below. Looks like difficult to replace - anything I need to be cautious / aware of that's replaced a rad before?
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2010 F-150 with 38 gallon tank. Original thought was great way of having some spare fuel available for use during an emergency. How to easily remove gas from these new vehicles?
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I just bought a 2010 F-150 with 60,000 miles. I have noticed that as I slow to a stop the transmission feels like it doesn't down shift. The RPM stays at 1000 and only drops to about 550 rpm when the vehicle comes to a complete stop. Feels like the brakes are fighting the engine to stop the vehicle.
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