Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2010 - Engine Stopped When Driving Down The Freeway / Miles To E Inaccurate?
Aug 22, 2011
My 2010 has 11,000 miles on it. Was driving 75 mph down the freeway when the engine stopped. I was headed to the gas station as my low fuel light had just come on (at the time it died, 37 miles to E).
This is not my first Ford. I understand you shouldn't allow your tank to get that low because it is bad on the fuel pump (or whatever). But, I drove my 09 many times well below 37 miles to E. I have driven this vehicle below 37 miles to E. So, I was startled when it died.
It was towed to the dealership and their diagnosis was that it was out of gas. This does not make me happy... as I am aware that it was "low" on gas. But if the gauge is telling me 37 miles to E, then why did it stop running?
What good is a gauge/warning on my new vehicle if it is inaccurate?
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I wanted to change oil at 1000 miles on my new 2010 FX4. The dealer said that I should wait till 2500 miles or so because it still has the break in oil in it.
Does he know what he is talking about or should I change it? He did say he would change it and take my money if I really wanted to.
Maybe my thinking is still old school about changing the oil right away with a new engine.
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I traded in my 2011 Lariat last month because I had quite a bit of problems with it in the short time I had it. I also didn't care as much for the bells and whistles as I thought I would when I bought it.
I got such a good deal on a new 2011 Lariat Super Crew, that I traded. Shortly after getting the new truck, I had to take it to the dealer for two dents that I found the first time I washed it. I didn't see them when I took delivery because it was dark. I had not seen the truck before that because they got it from another dealer to get the color I wanted. I also had problems with the radio buttons on my steering wheel and the sirius button on the dash not working at times, damaged trim around the left side of the windshield, a discoloration the size of a nickel on the console that I noticed when taking delivery, and a ticking noise in the engine . After the truck was in the shop for 3 days, I get it back without anything being corrected. Parts had to be ordered for the console and trim piece.
I took the truck back in 10 days ago for the engine noise and for them to repair the dents that were there when I got it, along with more troubleshooting on my intermittent problems with the radio and steering wheel buttons. I get a call late yesterday afternoon with the verdict.....Ford says replace the engine due to something being wrong with the crankshaft.
I have to say, I'm pretty disgusted right now. I'm not so sure that I want this truck anymore because of all the issues I've had in the short time I've owned it. Service department at the dealer has been great, and the dealership has been talking about possibly getting me into a new truck. I'm just not so sure I want to try a a third truck. I've been a Ford man my entire life, but I'm disgusted with them right now. I certainly don't want a Chevy or a Dodge, so I don't know what I'm going to do at this point.
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I have a 2010 f150 XL. 4.6L The power steering would work one day and not the next and work again and so on. But now it just stopped. How can you tell if the pump or the rack and pinion is bad. My reservoir full of fluid. When I start the truck turn the wheels there's no whining sound. Should the fluid in the reservoir be flowing?
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I was driving on the freeway and the trac and engine lights came on.. Noticed that I am no longer getting the Eco light when coasting. Ran the codes and it's P0157 and C1201. I have recently changed tires, not sure what other reason can cause the lights.
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The drivers seat heat on my 2010 F-150 stopped working. The passengers side works fine. When I press the button on the dash, it lights for 2-3 seconds, then goes out. I have been looking around all weekend for a fix. I found many posts, but they are older and the equipment I'm seeing on my 2010 F-150 looks different. I found the wires coming from the heating pad. I was going to try and test for continuity but the wires have a plastic fitting and I can't get contact to the wires. I found a diagram on Foreparts.com showing that the heated seat control module is part # 14C724. I was able to locate on the passengers side, but not on the drivers side so I wasn't able to swap and see if that was the problem.
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I had a new windshield installed and the first time it rained, my auto unlock,the tire pressure monitor and the auto headlights stopped working. The dealer said that the fuse box got wet. I have since fixed the leak but can't find a fuse or reset any where.
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We were coming home today from a 300 mile trip and we were heading into a 40mph head wind. Anyway we start to here a clicking sound in the driver's door like something is blowing around in there. It sounds like a piece of metal hitting on metal or like a small rock blowing around in there. Tick, tick, tick, it about drives me crazy. I have an appointment at the dealer tomorrow and hope it continues for them. Ever have that happen when something is going on with your vehicle and take it to the dealer and it doesn't do it. 2010 Lariat....
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I have a 2010 F150 SCREW with 4.6l 3v 4wd. Up to 100,000 miles nothing more than tires, brakes, and evap purge valve (50,000 miles). Check engine light came on right around 100,000 miles and had no driving problems other than some crappy fuel mileage. Did the following:
Changed evap purge valve, reset cpu by unplugging. CEL came back on after about 200 miles
Took the truck to a shop to get oil change, change plugs, diff fluids, transfer case fluid and get CEL looked at. Shop recommended changing intake gasket as you could see gummy type fluid on passenger side valve cover. When removing the intake found the intake cracked, changed gasket and intake. They reset the light. 200 to 250 miles later the CEL came back on.
Took it back to the same shop, left it with them for the weekend. they think it could be the O2 sensors. I went out and got the shop all 4 O2 sensors and they installed for free (seeing as I spent $2500 with them for all the previous weekends work) 200 to 250 miles CEL came back on
Determined to find time to have another shop look at the problem and trying to get it to a family friend, wasted about a month. At the end of February stopped at a friends house after being there for 20 minutes tried to start truck, it wouldn't fire. It would crank but no fire. Called for a tow and while waiting tried to crank the truck and it fired up, like nothing was wrong. Cancelled the tow truck and drove right to dealership. They determined it was the MAF sensor. Spent the $500 to have them diagnose and change MAF. All things good for about a month and about 3000 miles...
Now in the past 2 weeks it has done the following: I am a construction manager so i am in and out of my truck all day so the engine is never really a cold start except for the mornings when driving to work, it stalled while leaving work on a Friday at low speed. luckily I was able to pull in to a gas station. Tried to restart and it cranked but no fire. after 5 minutes or so tried again, fired up drove home the 35 miles with no problem, truck had power, smooth idle. No CEL.
Same weekend on Sunday, coming home from church at highway speed truck got sluggish, wrench light came on, no response to throttle. Rolled to a stop and then the oil light came on and chime from dash. Turned the key all the way off waited 10 seconds, again crank but no start. Waited 5 minutes and it fired up no problem. Church is only 3 or 4 miles away, no problem going to church, 2 miles into the trip home is when it stalled.
Drove all week, 500 plus miles without a stall or problem
Coming home on Saturday from my kids soccer game again 4 or 5 miles away (no problem going to game) truck stalled at highway speed. Coast to a stop, wrench comes on and then oil light, chimes from dash. Turn key off, wrench and oil light do not come back on. Try to start, again crank but no fire. waited the 5 minutes or so and it fired up fine. (Earlier in the day i got gas, 87 octane, from a one of my regular gas stations from 1/4 tank to full)
Today coming home from church but running an errant the truck stalls after making a left turn about 3 miles from the church at low speed.
All of this without a CEL. What can solve this problem. Clean a sensor? clean throttle body? Gas tank additives? I am due for an oil change and may ask the dealer to look at it but its going to be time consuming as I cant radially repeat the problem and there is no CEL. As I am thinking about the different times it stalled, other than the first time I was probably around 1900 to 2300 rpm.
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Started a while back and comes and goes. Only commonality I have found is the truck needs to be warmed up for it to happen and usually after a few hours of driving. The downshift from 5th or 6th into fourth, at times, produces anywhere from a light to violent clunk, feels like a typical tranny slip. It will do it while in cruise and it will do it if I don't have the cruise on. Can't figure out if it is going to be a tune issue or hardware.
It does it only downshifting into 4th from 5th or 6th, no other downshifting is a problem and usually the 6th to 4th produces the worst results. At highway speeds that is usually a shift from around 2Krpm to just over 3K rpm (6th to 4th) if it is from 5th it is about 2500 to 3K. Start from a stop and go WOT and there are no issues.
Having it in Tow/Haul or not makes no difference as far as I can tell. IT can do it on one hill and the next time be just fine or do it 2-3 hills in a row. After this last trip it will do it at 9K feet or at 60 feet elevation, didn't make a difference there either.
Another issue that may be hurting the computer is the truck originally came with the 235 tires, it now has 285's and the rear is only 3.31. I plan on going with 265's and maybe still a gear change to 3.73's in the future. I usually only notice this on long trips, first was a 1500mile hauling an ATV, second was last week during a 2500 mile empty. Although I have had it do it a few times locally. I figure those bigger tires can't be good especially with that high of a rear for the management system.
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My 2010 F150 randomly feels like I'm driving over the rumble strips as well as a small jerk like there is a cylinder misfire. If keep it at constant speed it still happens, but under cruise control it stops. Even when load increases like going up a hill.
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A week ago, I bought my wife a 2010 Platnium White Lariat. (I will post pics later, when it's clean). We noticed that the smell of fuel, was bad after driving it, and coming to a stop, say at a stop sign.
We returned it to our dealer, yesterday, and this what they found. Just though I'd pass it on to you, for problem shooting, and infor to ask a dealership.
This is the quote on the paper we have. "Customer states when filling up or at idle the can smell fuel in the passenger compartment. Smells like coming from the engine area. Leaking at fuel rail. Tightened valve and road test no leaks now".
We were told that it was a "schrader valve". There was NO CHARGE for this repair. So far it seems to be o.k.
The advise we were given was as follows:
1) NO HEET is needed in the fuel tank
2) No Sea Foam, or injector cleaner of any kind
REASON: Was told it would mess up gaskets, and seals etc. I'm not a mechanic, just passing the word that I was told.
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2010 F-150 5.4L 3V gas, 6 speed auto, 2WD.
I got a Bully Dog GT Platinum Gas with plans to purchase a tune from 5starturning. Was messing around and loaded the built in 05-10 Ford Gas tune in Bully Dog... all went well.
Take it for a drive around and next thing I see is my check engine light is on so back to the house and revert back to the factory file... again, all went well.
No such luck; still have the check engine light and the Bully Dog says there are no DTC codes. Needless to say, I'm a bit freaked out.
I have tried uninstalling the Bully Dog tune and reverting to factory file and still no luck.
I think I would feel better about it if I could just find some comment saying "this is common just unhook the battery and reset and go on your merry way".
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I've had this truck since new and now with 98k miles I just started to hear the dreaded engine ticking. I realize that it is probably the cam phaser's. I have plans to take it to the dealer to get the plugs changed (actually not bad at $225) and now I going to add the ticking noise to the list. How bad will I get killed for two new cam phaser's? Also, since this just started, am I doing any more damage by continuing to drive it? I probably won't be able to take it it for another month.
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Took the car on the hwy earlier today. A/C was on and wss going about 60 mph when all of a sudden I got this horrible burning rubber smell inside the cabin.
I exited the freeway and the smell eventually subsided. I'll try again tomorrow to see if the smells comes back.
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After I change my oil, I need to reset back to "miles to empty" from "% left on oil" warning. 2009 F150, XLT Supercab. I do not know how to do this.
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So for some time now my truck(2011) has a problem when I floor it while entering the freeway or even down the road..
If im cruising around 30 or 40 and floor it, it down shifts and takes off nice.. but when it goes to change gears, it chokes, not sure how else to explain it, but once past that gear, the following shift fine if im still on the gas..
Normal driving shifts ok, and if im going say 50 or higher and do the same thing, it shifts fine.. so its only when going slower and I floor it..
It has 69,000+ miles on it
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I have the normally aspirated 3.7 V6. The ownersd manual talks about the trucks computer telling you when the oil changes are needed.....But, at 6500 miles, bnothing has come through. I have not changed the oil yet on it. I feel this is a huge sin, but am not sure.....I was raised you changed the oil every 2-3 grand. But the owners manual on this truck says the computer will tell you when to. Should I just go ahead and change it?
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I just bought a 2010 F150 XLT XTR SuperCab 4X4 with a 4.6L 3V engine. I had a 2003 5.4L and a 2004 V10 before and this new engine seems to be nosier then the older ones I've had. It's a ticking/fluttering type noise I here when I'm standing outside the truck while it is idling. Is it normal for these newer 3V engines to make this noise? My wife has a 2009 Hyundai Santefe and it makes a similar noise just not as loud. Does the 5.4L make a similar noise also?
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My truck just hit 110k on the clock, and i've never had the transmission fluid changed. Is this something that I am past due on changing or early? I don't know when it is supposed to be changed. If so is it something that you can do yourself?
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So last night on my way home I was stopping at a traffic signal and noticed a grinding noise from the drivers side front wheel. Upon further investigation I noticed a lot of brake dust on my wheel. I took it to the dealer thinking the caliper might be seized up. Well they looked at the caliper and said it was OK but the inside pad was worn to the metal. The other pads still looked good but since they have to replace the rotor they might as well replace all of them. The tech told me that being up north where they use salt corrodes the pads and doesnt allow them to move freely. He also asked me if I drive a lot of highway miles and I said yes, 30 miles a day. I guess from what he said is that the less they get used the more they will corrode up. So premature brake pad wear could be worse.
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