Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2010 - Drivetrain Vibration And Rough Ride
Jan 1, 2010
I just bought a new 2010 supercrew 4x4 lariat. I have 2000 mles on it. vehicle is equipped with 20" wheels with scorpion tires. Problem is that ride is very hard plus there is really annoying low level vibration that seems to be related to drivetrain - this vibration is most noticable on smooth roads. i have owned 99, 03, 05, and 08 4x4 lariat supercrews and this is by far the worst riding truck. i put a lot of miles on my trucks and this one is not in the least enjoyable to drive.
I took it back to ford dealership and they just said that these new bodies are 'stiffer' and transmit more vibration and that new 6 speed transmission is not as smooth. I reduced tire pressure from 40psi (as delivered) to 35psi with no difference. I don't buy it - I believe that something is wrong that can be fixed - but not sure where to look. Other than this problem i really like the truck!
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My 2010 RX 350 only has 35K miles and I've been feeling that the smoothness in the ride has really deteriorated in the last several months. So much so, that even though I could have squeezed another 5K or so out of my tires, I bought a new set...OEM Michelin Latitude Tour HP. I can't say the ride has improved at all. Today, I brought it to the Lexus dealer for a brake inspection, because I was getting a slight vibration in the wheel when braking. Front brake job was needed. I was given a 2013 RX 350 as a loaner. The ride in that car is so much smoother. Should I be questioning the suspension or some other issue that would improve the ride?
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I have a 2010 corolla S with around 15K miles. I'm not sure if this is really an issue but it has been bugging me for sometime. I have noticed that sometimes the engine / ride feels really smooth and feels as if the car just sails along. But most of the days the ride feels a little bit rough/grainy... I drive mostly in the city (around 80%) and live close to work (3miles one way). I do oil changes every 5 months... Would some kind of tuning be required? Or is this just normal?
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I just purchased a 2010 Corolla LE with 21,000 miles and I am wondering if I just made an immense mistake. I raised the question during the test drive and the salesman said all Corollas sound and ride the same, his wife had one, etc., telling me it's fine.
I badly needed to replace my old car and bought, despite my misgivings. Now that I own it, the road noise is staggering. Truly stunning and unpleasant. Or, from a bit of reading here, perhaps it's the tires. Really?
And every bump reverberates through my whole body and sounds like bad shocks. Whomp, whomp, whomp, down the road! But this is a certified car and supposedly they would have checked shocks/struts or whatever is there.
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I recently purchased my 2011 F150, which is the first new vehicle I've ever owned. I have always changed my own oil, and if possible I would like to continue doing this myself. My only concern is any potential warranty claims down the road.
If I change my own oil can Ford blame any drivetrain failures on me? What should I do to maintain records of my own maintenance to prove I've changed the oil regularly?
I am aware that I must use synthetic oil and a Motorcraft filter.
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2010 F150 lariat 4x4 with 18" stock wheels. Rides like a dream up to 80, then it starts to vibrate.
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2010 F150 4.6L 2V, 50k miles. Have recently developed an issue with an extremely rough idle with the AC on and trans in Drive. If in park, the idle is high enough that it is much less noticeable. I have cleaned my throttle body, and MAF sensor ? After this , I disconnected battery for about 30mins and let the computer reset. After a long drive today, it is still happening. This engine has the servo controlled throttle body, and therefore no IAC valve that I can identify. I would assume that the idle increase necessary for the AC to be on would come from the servo controlled throttle body itself with no need for an external IAC. The idle in Drive with the AC on will drop to 500 RPM or less and it is very rough. Is there a procedure for a recalibration of the servo throttle body that I could try ?
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I have a 2011 Camry SE with about 25K miles on it. I was pretty happy with my car until I purchased 4 new Michelin Primacy MXV4 tires. Based on overwhelmingly positive reviews, I decided to purchase those Michelin tires. However, as soon as they were put on, the nightmares began.
First, steering wheel started to shake and car felt very wobbly at highway speeds. The ride also felt a lot bumpier and the front of the car (floor, center console, etc) vibrated a lot. I thought, okay, tires probably just needed to be rebalanced. So, I took the car to the shop and had them rebalance the tires. That didn't work, so I took it back again and had 2 other shops attempt to balance them. It got slightly better, but still did the same thing.
Thinking the tires were defective, I had the shop swap them out for 4 new Bridgestone tires. The shaking continued despite having the tires changed but the wobble went away. So, I had them rebalanced 2 more times with the last time being at a shop with the latest Hunter Road Force Touch machine. The mechanic told me he road force balanced it and the machine got it down to 0 with no indication of defective wheel or tires.
After the road force balance, it's gotten a lot better, but I still feel mild shaking/vibration on the steering wheel at speeds > 70 mph on most freeway surfaces (but not all). The floor vibration has also gotten a little better, but remained, and the ride is still bumpy.
I took my car to 2 different dealers and told them the situation. Both of them said nothing was wrong with the suspension or struts, nor were any mounts broken.
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I have a 2013 Toyota Corolla. I got distracted when driving and ran through a dirt center divide and got a flat tire.I had a replacement tire put on and after I started driving from the tow yard there was an immediate heavy vibration. There's a big bump every time the car starts and when switches gears (I have an automatic) and in some gears the vibration is less intense, also when I turn the car at certain angles the vibration seems to go away completely but then returns when I began driving straight again.
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I recently traded my 97 F-250 for a 2013 F-150 regular cab short bed 2wd. I tow a 3000 lb. cargo trailer 5 days a week, no trailer on weekends. When towing, the rear sags, and rolls in the turns. It's not too bad but if I load anything in the bed it gets worse. I am thinking about Firestone airbags but I have read mixed reviews about them on this forum. I am really enjoying the F-150 ride on the weekends and would like to maintain that, Is the ride really much stiffer when the bags have only 5psi in them
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I bought this truck with only 15k miles and the ride is like riding in a low rider really bad every bump feels like there is no shocks. I rode in a rental truck 2010 F 150 and it was like going from a softail to a hard tail night and day.
It has always rode like this since I bought it I chalked it up to the wheels (22in) being so big. The wheels are the factory Harley Davidson 22in with brand new tires as of yesterday.
I want to know the best and cheapest way to get the best ride possible. Also maybe a ball park of how much this will cost I can not do the work so I will have to pay or wait till spring to do it myself.
Also wanted to explore air ride if it didnt cost way to much.
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When I drive my 2010 Toyota Corolla on a rough tar road, i feel dashboard vibration on the drivers side. The vibration is sensed in the instrument panel and also around the window. This happens if the tar road is rough or uneven. Is there anyway to remove the top of the dashboard and insulate it?
I live in sunny South Florida, so the heat makes the plastics in these corollas rattle or vibrate more, going over rough tar roads.
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The last few days I've noticed an extremely rough ride when in Normal Mode. In sport + mode I noticed a bit of a smoother ride where the bumps weren't as harsh. Which is the complete opposite of what's supposed to happen. My tire pressure is 36 and reaches 39-40 when hot. No clue why this is happening, should I be worried ? Should I lower the tire pressure a little maybe to much air is causing the harsh ride? Or should I reset the battery because my car is stuck in sport + mode when it should be normal.
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I purchased a 2014 Toyota Corolla Le Eco Plus last May. The car rode FINE for a few months, but then I began to notice that the ride feels completely rough/harsh. It's almost like a jittery feeling. After researching I've found reviews that said "the Corolla's ride is harsh and unpleasant," but to me it feels like it's gradually getting worse. That has me thinking something is wrong with the car itself, not just that the Corolla in general rides rough. I've taken it in to the dealership multiple times, but they say nothing is wrong. I honestly don't know what to do. What could it be? Struts? Shocks? I mean, it's BRAND NEW.
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I took my 2007 Rx 350 in for a tire sensor replacement and was given a 2013 Rx loaner. While the cabin was quieter the ride was horrible. Very rough and bumpy. When I asked the service manager about the ride, he said Lexus had changed from an independent suspension to a solid suspension in 2010 and the ride was bumpy. Why would Lexus change to a less comfortable ride???
I am in the market for a new car, and wanted a new RX but the ride is so bad compared to my car, they lost my business. If you are considering an RX, get ready for a rough ride.
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I recently purchased a 2010 Toyota Venza. I unfortunately did not test drive it enough to realize how rough a ride it has. Thinking that something was wrong I brought it back and was told that it is normal and the Venza has a very hard ride. After more research I found out that it is a common complaint. The mechanic said that its large 20" tires, long wheel base and tight suspension all add up to a very hard ride. I saw previous discussions regarding this but no real or recent answers. Can anything be done to improve the ride? I was told that the 2013 model has a better ride so they must have changed something. Would something as simple as replacing the shocks with a different type? I love the car but hate the thought of driving it for the next 5 years the way it is. I would have purchased a Ford Edge or similar car if I realized how hard the ride is.
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I am new to Hyundai. I just bought a barely used 2011 Elantra GL Sedan - Auto. I notice that the ride is absolutely terrible - especially the rear which has from what I understand torsion bar suspension. (Didn't we stop using those on WWII Jeeps) Anyway I digress.
I notice in city any pot hole is jarring in the front and hoppy in the back. On the highway I feel like the back end gets air any time I hit a moderate pump at speeds above 90kmh (55mph). I noticed what others have noticed too, slight fishtailing or rear vibrations when braking.
Is there an issue that I'm unaware of - is this normal or is there something broken/loose. I push on the rear like I would test a normal suspension and it doesn't bounce more than once but if I hit a bump while driving it bounces three or four times?
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We had a 2005 prius and LOVED it. But, we decided to move on and get a new one. 2011 Prius Three
How different could it be? I hate the new one. It is extremely uncomfortable for me in the passenger seat. Less so in the driver's seat, which is height adjustable, but still a problem for me due to physical issues.
EVERY bump and wrinkle in the road reverberates through the car - and through me.
The people at our dealership say there's nothing that can be done. Is this true?
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I have a 04 F350 srw , 6.8 . Recently developed loud whine from the rear . I had the differential (10.5 sterling ) completely rebuilt . It quieted way down . But I still had a couple of high pitched whines . Took it back and had the rebuilder ride with me . At first he couldn't hear it ( it can be faint but gets louder under a load , I pull a 40' trailer and didn't have it with me), when he finally started hearing it he said it might be a planetary making a little noise, just watch it . So I made a short run (450miles RT) . Same noises but I noticed that sometimes when I stopped and got fuel , it would quiet down for 50 or so miles . I got to thinking maybe it could be a rear wheel bearing going bad and the sound transferring through the axle to the drive line . It only did it accelerating ( before and after rebuild ) and got louder going up a hill .
Today I drove it in to town and parked it ( still the same ) and a couple of hours later after a cold front came through ( maybe 10 Deg. temp change) I got in and the noise was about 90% gone , but at 45 to 60 mph. it vibrates . Let off the gas , vibrates ,, Put it in neutral- vibrates, revved the engine in neutral - vibrates and no change from rpm diff. . As long as its rolling between 45-60 , it vibrates . Hit the brakes- vibrates.. I have had 3 mechanics check it out ( 2 good ones and one that the other 2 take what they cant figure out ). Left them all scratching their heads. Checked the driveline and I changed one U joint (prior to the short run ). All seems tight .
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I recently noticed squeaks and some vibration on my drivetrain and to my surprise i must change my axles... now i have looked around and pricing is between 300 and 400$ for each (passenger and driver side) this was at ECStuning and UroTuning. both say its a genuine VW part. front axle 1.8t 6speed gli....
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I have a 2010 F150 Lariat 4x4 with the 5.4. It has around 63,000 miles on it. I purchased this truck last winter and recently have noticed a pretty heavy vibration when the AC is running. It only vibrates when I am at a stop. If I apply a little throttle the vibration seems to go away or it goes away if I shift to neutral. The vibration is not violent but it is above average and I would definitely not consider it normal AC vibration.
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