I wanted to change oil at 1000 miles on my new 2010 FX4. The dealer said that I should wait till 2500 miles or so because it still has the break in oil in it.
Does he know what he is talking about or should I change it? He did say he would change it and take my money if I really wanted to.
Maybe my thinking is still old school about changing the oil right away with a new engine.
I have the normally aspirated 3.7 V6. The ownersd manual talks about the trucks computer telling you when the oil changes are needed.....But, at 6500 miles, bnothing has come through. I have not changed the oil yet on it. I feel this is a huge sin, but am not sure.....I was raised you changed the oil every 2-3 grand. But the owners manual on this truck says the computer will tell you when to. Should I just go ahead and change it?
View 7 RepliesMy truck just hit 110k on the clock, and i've never had the transmission fluid changed. Is this something that I am past due on changing or early? I don't know when it is supposed to be changed. If so is it something that you can do yourself?
View 14 Replies2011 Subaru outback with 49000 miles. Regular oil changes every 5000 miles with Subaru filters. After the last oil change at 45000 miles the engine started shuddering when reversing from garage at @48300 miles. Once warmed up drives okay. Within a week it threw up code 0028 and found engine oil jelled up. Drained, flushed and replaced oil. I replaced the oil pressure switch and solenoid just in case. Code came back with less than 1000 miles after oil change. Can't understand the reason for jelling. Have been using Castrol GTX 5-30 all the time with Subaru OEM filters.
View 5 RepliesI don't have my owners manual handy for my 2010 F-150 and was wondering how to reset the "change oil soon" message that appears everytime I start the truck.
View 7 RepliesMy 2010 has 11,000 miles on it. Was driving 75 mph down the freeway when the engine stopped. I was headed to the gas station as my low fuel light had just come on (at the time it died, 37 miles to E).
This is not my first Ford. I understand you shouldn't allow your tank to get that low because it is bad on the fuel pump (or whatever). But, I drove my 09 many times well below 37 miles to E. I have driven this vehicle below 37 miles to E. So, I was startled when it died.
It was towed to the dealership and their diagnosis was that it was out of gas. This does not make me happy... as I am aware that it was "low" on gas. But if the gauge is telling me 37 miles to E, then why did it stop running?
What good is a gauge/warning on my new vehicle if it is inaccurate?
my car is losing a quart of oil every 800 to 1000 miles the car is not leaking or burning oil. why is this happening and where is the oil going .how do i stop this from happening the car is a 2009 toyota camry with a four cylinder engine
View 19 RepliesI have a 2009 Toyota Matrix that has 127,000 miles on it. It has had several sources of oil loss in the past year and now it just seems to be burning it. I am very skeptical that a toyota engine is burning oil at 127,000miles. I replaced a part called a pcv valve as well as a seal that was causing leakage. Now I am losing about a quart every 1000 miles and no leaks can be found. Any other things that would cause oil loss besides burning?
View 9 Replies2010 F150 ... So I have the tick noise at rpm's 800-1000 at drive through, stops, etc. So I did research on it a few months ago and saw that it might be VCT's but should be able to drive. so I drove it waiting to save money and have it go to a shop. well this past weekend while coming home from work my oil light came on the pressure dropped to zero, I was on the highway so I drove about another mile to get off highway and once I got off my truck died. I had it towed to my house and I thought I blew my motor. So I started doing research here and found that the VCT's AND cam Phaser could be bad. so I replaced my VCT on driver side put it all back together it started and loud knock was gone. then after 5 mins it was back very loud knock!
So I shut it down and took apart the passenger side once I got the valve cover off I found the problem.... The bolt that holds the cam phaser in place snapped off and was riding along the camshaft. So I took that out and extracted remaining part of bolt. inspected my camshaft and it was really messed up. so I bought new Phaser and Camshaft. the camshaft just came in today and I am trying to put it back in. but the hole for the pin in the phaser doesn't line up and I cant spin the shaft to make it line up. should I spin the cam phaser? I marked the chain and the phaser is where it should be on chain, but with that bolt snapping off could that have thrown the timing off so my mark is no good? when I lay the camshaft in place it sits perfect and if I just move the phase over 2-3 links it will all fit together. Should I do that?
Started a while back and comes and goes. Only commonality I have found is the truck needs to be warmed up for it to happen and usually after a few hours of driving. The downshift from 5th or 6th into fourth, at times, produces anywhere from a light to violent clunk, feels like a typical tranny slip. It will do it while in cruise and it will do it if I don't have the cruise on. Can't figure out if it is going to be a tune issue or hardware.
It does it only downshifting into 4th from 5th or 6th, no other downshifting is a problem and usually the 6th to 4th produces the worst results. At highway speeds that is usually a shift from around 2Krpm to just over 3K rpm (6th to 4th) if it is from 5th it is about 2500 to 3K. Start from a stop and go WOT and there are no issues.
Having it in Tow/Haul or not makes no difference as far as I can tell. IT can do it on one hill and the next time be just fine or do it 2-3 hills in a row. After this last trip it will do it at 9K feet or at 60 feet elevation, didn't make a difference there either.
Another issue that may be hurting the computer is the truck originally came with the 235 tires, it now has 285's and the rear is only 3.31. I plan on going with 265's and maybe still a gear change to 3.73's in the future. I usually only notice this on long trips, first was a 1500mile hauling an ATV, second was last week during a 2500 mile empty. Although I have had it do it a few times locally. I figure those bigger tires can't be good especially with that high of a rear for the management system.
Just got the car back from lexus service and realized it changed to kms...wanted to see if i can do it at home rather making another trip to the service department.
View 4 RepliesThe VW Owners Manual for my 2009 VW TDI Jetta indicates that the automatic transmission fluid and filter should be changed every 40,000 miles. However my independent mechanic's "after market" maintenance manuals say that the DSG should not be touched for the life of the car. I am perplexed
View 10 RepliesSo I posted a while back that my oil at 13000 miles still looks clean at 34k on the Prius . Sent in an oil sample to Blackstone to see what's the break down on the oil. Like I said before I am impress with today synthetic oil and how well Toyota build their motor. Here is the result from blackstone.
Talk to the lab person who analyze the oil. He said he's pretty impressed with Prius motor. He said with the results I can probably go 20k to 25K miles before the next Oil Change look at the result there hardly any breakdown in the oil but their Blackstone wants to analyze the oil at 2000 miles increments.
After I change my oil, I need to reset back to "miles to empty" from "% left on oil" warning. 2009 F150, XLT Supercab. I do not know how to do this.
View 1 RepliesSo for some time now my truck(2011) has a problem when I floor it while entering the freeway or even down the road..
If im cruising around 30 or 40 and floor it, it down shifts and takes off nice.. but when it goes to change gears, it chokes, not sure how else to explain it, but once past that gear, the following shift fine if im still on the gas..
Normal driving shifts ok, and if im going say 50 or higher and do the same thing, it shifts fine.. so its only when going slower and I floor it..
It has 69,000+ miles on it
I traded in my 2011 Lariat last month because I had quite a bit of problems with it in the short time I had it. I also didn't care as much for the bells and whistles as I thought I would when I bought it.
I got such a good deal on a new 2011 Lariat Super Crew, that I traded. Shortly after getting the new truck, I had to take it to the dealer for two dents that I found the first time I washed it. I didn't see them when I took delivery because it was dark. I had not seen the truck before that because they got it from another dealer to get the color I wanted. I also had problems with the radio buttons on my steering wheel and the sirius button on the dash not working at times, damaged trim around the left side of the windshield, a discoloration the size of a nickel on the console that I noticed when taking delivery, and a ticking noise in the engine . After the truck was in the shop for 3 days, I get it back without anything being corrected. Parts had to be ordered for the console and trim piece.
I took the truck back in 10 days ago for the engine noise and for them to repair the dents that were there when I got it, along with more troubleshooting on my intermittent problems with the radio and steering wheel buttons. I get a call late yesterday afternoon with the verdict.....Ford says replace the engine due to something being wrong with the crankshaft.
I have to say, I'm pretty disgusted right now. I'm not so sure that I want this truck anymore because of all the issues I've had in the short time I've owned it. Service department at the dealer has been great, and the dealership has been talking about possibly getting me into a new truck. I'm just not so sure I want to try a a third truck. I've been a Ford man my entire life, but I'm disgusted with them right now. I certainly don't want a Chevy or a Dodge, so I don't know what I'm going to do at this point.
My wife purchased a new F150 4x4 in late 09. We have driven it about 5000 miles. It is garaged year around. Her brother offered to do the first oil change but can't get the filter off. He has tried every type of wrench and has the metal body of the filter nearly completely torn off up to the rim of the filter near the seat and it still won't screw off. we are thinking that is might have gotten cross threaded at the factory and over tightened.
View 8 RepliesOpinions ranged from using the Ford on board system, which can let you go
10,000 miles, to "Ma pappy done said ya gotta git that ol' all outta thar every 3000 miles." Needless to say, we didn't reach a consensus.
So here's a different question:
3 owners, Art, Bob, and Charlie each believe in 5000 miles between changes.
Art drives 10,000 miles a year and changes it twice a year. No problem. Right?
Bob drives 5000 miles a year and changes it once a year.
Charlie is gone from home most of the time and only drives his vehicle to the airport, then back a couple weeks later. He does this once a month and it's 100 miles each way. Otherwise the vehicle sits.
So he drives 5000 miles in 2 years. Any problems there?
When should I get the first oil change in our 2013 F150 5.0? We took a 1,000 mile trip right after getting the truck. It's been two weeks and I have put around 1,600 miles on the truck.
Also, how often is everyone getting regular oil changes with the 5.0?
Took my truck in Friday for my first oil change at the dealer and they put Pennzoil in instead of Motorcraft. One would expect Ford would require their products in their sponsored dealerships. i didn't realize until I was home and placed a phone call to the service manager and have not got a return call.
View 14 RepliesSo last night on my way home I was stopping at a traffic signal and noticed a grinding noise from the drivers side front wheel. Upon further investigation I noticed a lot of brake dust on my wheel. I took it to the dealer thinking the caliper might be seized up. Well they looked at the caliper and said it was OK but the inside pad was worn to the metal. The other pads still looked good but since they have to replace the rotor they might as well replace all of them. The tech told me that being up north where they use salt corrodes the pads and doesnt allow them to move freely. He also asked me if I drive a lot of highway miles and I said yes, 30 miles a day. I guess from what he said is that the less they get used the more they will corrode up. So premature brake pad wear could be worse.
View 6 Replies