Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2010 - Cannot Spin Front Wheels While On Jacks
Nov 27, 2013
Went to change the front brake pads on my 2010 F150 today which has 80,000 miles on it and is 2wd. Prior to taking the wheels off we noticed that it takes both hands grabbing the wheel and a significant amount of umph to get them to spin. As soon as you let go of the wheel it stops moving.
While changing the pads we didn't see anything that seemed misaligned or incorrect. The pistons compressed with ease on both calipers. However we did have to fight to remove the inside pad on both wheels.
After re-install wheels back on, they are still just as hard to try to spin. Is this normal if not what could be the problem and could this be affecting my MPG which i get 18.0....
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I just bought an FX4 and pick it up tomorrow. When you are in 2wd does the whole front end spin like the axles? Or does only the wheels spin when you are in 2wd? Reason I am asking it seems like with chevy the whole front end spins in 2wd.
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I have a 2013 Lariat 4x4 and was switching in and out of auto four wheel drive the other day. Now I have it in 2 wheel drive and there seems to be a funny vibration from the front wheels when I drive down the road.
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I have a 2010 F-150 Lariat 4X4 and the front wheels get brake dust and rust staining on them. What is the best wheel cleaner to use to get rid of this? I thought about muratic acid but am afraid of damaging the finish on the wheels.
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I have a 2010 F-150 Lariat and from the salted snow and slushy roads I have rust stains on the wheels. It is not severe and I dont think the wheels are steel but I would like to remove the rust stains without damaging the wheels.
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I have an 2011 Ecoboost SCAB and the front brake dust is ruining my chrome package wheels. The rears are fine. Ceramic or low dust pads??
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OK, so the front end of the car is on jack stands. The rear is planted on the ground. The car is in park.
Yet, I'm able to spin the front wheels with my hand.
Wouldn't putting it in park lock the wheels via the transmission?
The car is a FWD 2007 Corolla....
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I know the RX350 isn't a real SUV designed to go off-road, but after the recent blizzard on the East Coast I am really disappointed by the AWD in this car. My driveway is plowed by a truck so it is very clean, but the city plow leaves maybe a small 5 inch high pile that about 1 feet across after it goes by. My RX350 couldn't through that the front wheels just kept spinning. I tried snow mode and even push the 4 Lock which I think does nothing. The back wheel didn't even spin once it seemed like I was driving a FWD car.
Our older RX330 a 2004 model got stuck also, but when we jabbed the gas after a few seconds the car made this weird screeching sound and you could see the back wheels spin as it climbed the driveway no problem albeit slowly. Its a bit disappointing to see an older RX has better AWD then the newer models. I mean the back wheels didn't even spin on my 2010 the front wheels just spun. I tried turn traction control off, 4 lock, and snow mode no luck. Also when going up the 2010 kept sliding sideways on my 04 the steering felt washy, but at least it was sliding off the driveway.
I also had A6 before this and it has never gotten stuck and its a lower car so its not like a drive my car through snow bank. We ended driving the older RX everywhere this weekend as the 2010 is not very assuring when it snows.
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I own a 2010 Jeep Liberty and this is my first RWD vehicle (when set in the normal 2WD mode of course). I notice that whenever I accelerate from a stop, on even a slightly wet road, the rear wheels spin and I get the traction light on my dashboard. I then need to take my foot of the gas and accelerate ohhhh soooo slowly. I've never had this kind of wheel spin on my previous AWD or FWD vehicles. Is this a known "feature" or RWD vehicles? Or maybe my one year old tires are inadequate? With my Liberty I could try switching to 4WD LOCK mode before attempting the acceleration to see if this works.
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how to find a floor jack that is low enough and has a long enough chassis to get to the central jacking points of the IS? I have 2 different models and there is no way they are long enough to reach the identified jack points but still allow for handle movement. Need to change my winter wheels and don't want to use the floor jack on the pinch weld jacking positions. Also don't really want to use the onboard jack....
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I have recently purchased a 2011 F150 Ext cab with 3.5L ecoboost with 69k miles. I have no experience with these engines prior to now. I've always wanted a full size truck and after driving my 98 S10 for 17 years, I decided it was time for a new truck. I hope I made the right choice in going for the 3.5 instead of 5.0.
On to my question. I've noticed that the truck hesitates from a dead stop or anytime the RPM's are under 1k. It feels like its missing or running lean/rich during the spin up of RPM's. When I drive it hard, it does seem to subside for a little, and I've heard people say that they run better when run hard. I can attest to that, but is this hesitation normal for an almost 70k mile engine? I am getting 15ish MPG on almost all city driving since I have bought it, but I do expect that to change (job hunting and current commute is less than 2 miles each way).
The only time I get to open it up is when I go run errands out of the immediate local area or visiting friends and family. On one of those trips, before I noticed the hesitation, I attempted to accelerate from 60 to pass on the expressway and it bucked and resisted like a horse. It finally took off up to 80 and completed that journey with no issue but the check engine light came on for a bit. The check engine light went off when I shut it down and hasn't come back on since.
New ride: 2011 3.5L Ecoboost....
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My 2010 f150 stx 4x4 fails to lock in the front hubs...
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2010 F150 XLT ... Front driver side door speaker goes from working fine, to crackling, to cutting out. It`s been doing this since the day I bought it. I've had a local audio company tell me they have seen a few new Ford with that problem.
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The chrome bubbling up on their front chrome grilles?
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I am changing the front and rear axle fluids on my '10 f150.The rear was no problem,the front is my issue.I took all the bolts off and loosened the cover to drain the fluid but it is a tight space and cannot take it off completely to clean it up and put on the gasket sealer.
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The brake dust on my front rims seems next to impossible to remove. Truck is a 10 F150 4x4 Lariat. What are people using to remove this? I expect to get in and scrub, but don't want to damage the rims as well.
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So I got this rattling sound like a piece of tin rattling underneath the truck, it is coming from the front of the transmission area. About 6 months ago the same thing was happening so I took the truck in for some other warranty work and had the dealership check out this rattle. When I picked the truck up I asked and they said it was rocks/gravel caught up underneath and they took them out and the rattle was gone. The truck is a 2010 FX4.
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I have just purchased a 2010 FX4 5.4l on 5/4 and just found a leak coming from above the passenger side frame horn. It looks like it may be from the condensor but im not 100 percent certain. It is an odorless oil not condensate. It is a slow drip that i found after running the truck for a short time. the puddle it left was about the size of a bottom of a drinking glass.
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I recently puchased a 2012 F-150 with the "ecoboost" engine. Recently I've been noticing an odor of what seems to be like rubber burning coming from the rear end of the truck.
It's very prominent when I stomp the gas pedal, with the traction control disabled especially. There's quite a bit of smoke coming from the rear, and the truck seems to over-accelerate for a V6. Should I take it to the dealer for repair?
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Any way to replace or re finish the chrome clad wheels?
I have a 2012 xlt with the chrome package. The chrome on the rims started to bubble.
So I am trying to come up with something to make the truck look good again.
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I read about Prius will not spin its wheels? if it loses traction, it somehow disengages the drive or otherwise does not power the wheels until they stop. Once they stop, the wheels can receive power again.
That's sure going to make it hard to do burnouts in the grocery store parking lot.
More importantly, it could make it hard to impossible to get unstuck on sand, gravel, mud or snow. It could also be hard to take off on a slippery incline.
Sure, this isn't an off road vehicle, but off the road ain't far from on the road and road conditions can get pretty rough.
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