Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2010 - Air Conditioning Won't Working?
Aug 24, 2012
I drove the truck yesterday and a few miles from the house i noticed the air conditioning wasn't working. After realizing it wasn't working i turned it off and continued on my 30 minute drive. When i arrived to my destination i opened the hood and watched the A/C compressor pulley as the wife turned the A/C on. The clutch was working as it should, and the engine rpm increased slightly with the load of the A/C as usual. The air coming from the vents was not cooled at all.
After talking with a few people at work they seem to think it's a mechanical issue, ie: the heater core isn't switching the louver from heat to A/C. I am going to do some investigating this weekend and will post my results.
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I have a 2010 f150 XL. 4.6L The power steering would work one day and not the next and work again and so on. But now it just stopped. How can you tell if the pump or the rack and pinion is bad. My reservoir full of fluid. When I start the truck turn the wheels there's no whining sound. Should the fluid in the reservoir be flowing?
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The drivers seat heat on my 2010 F-150 stopped working. The passengers side works fine. When I press the button on the dash, it lights for 2-3 seconds, then goes out. I have been looking around all weekend for a fix. I found many posts, but they are older and the equipment I'm seeing on my 2010 F-150 looks different. I found the wires coming from the heating pad. I was going to try and test for continuity but the wires have a plastic fitting and I can't get contact to the wires. I found a diagram on Foreparts.com showing that the heated seat control module is part # 14C724. I was able to locate on the passengers side, but not on the drivers side so I wasn't able to swap and see if that was the problem.
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I had a new windshield installed and the first time it rained, my auto unlock,the tire pressure monitor and the auto headlights stopped working. The dealer said that the fuse box got wet. I have since fixed the leak but can't find a fuse or reset any where.
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What are some pros/cons you have with yours? Both 5.4 supercabs xlt im looking at just cant decide. The 09 has a overall higher rating but its not to much more.
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Ok so this morning it finally got cold here. Around 10F degrees outside. Had a light coat of frost on the truck'just enough to make it hard to see out the windshield. I had the defrost on, fan speed set to high, temp. control set to high. After 20 minutes of driving it still wasn't getting hot in the truck. I had made a clear spot on the windshield so I could see to drive but the rest of it never cleared. Took the cabin of the truck forever to warm up at all. The fan doesn't seem to blow very hard on the highest setting on this truck. Air doesn't get very hot either. What's the issue here? Is this normal for these trucks? You'd think that on a truck that's commonly used in fleets and for work crews that they'd have designed these things with awesome heaters. Dang it's gonna' freeze me to death this winter.
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Last year I literally replaced the entire A/C system in my 93 F150. (The compressor, the hoses and the evaporator were leaking and I toyed with converting it to 134A so I went ahead and replaced the condenser and all the rest of the parts. I ended up putting R12 back in it since I have a tank.)
I replaced everything, added oil, pulled a vacuum, leak tested it, and charged it back with 2.75 lbs of R12. The A/C worked then (and now) but it was not really cold. I got busy and did not have time to trouble shoot it until this weekend and the pressures and clutch cycle times were withing spec according to the repair manual - air was in the low 90's so the clutch was on constantly, low side pressure in the low 40s and high side in the 180s. The inside center vent air temperature never got below 60 after about a half hour of running on max. It eventually gets the inside temperature cool but not very quickly and certainly not enough to make me take it off high.
I thought maybe the blend door was not closing so I took the glove box apart and can hear the blend door slamming in both the full cold and full hot positions so unless the door has a hole in it or there is some other path around the heater core, I don't think this is the problem. I also double checked the orifice tube and I had used the blue one that again the repair manual calls for. What could be keeping the A/C from working???
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For the second time in the last 24 months, my rear defroster doesn't seem to be working. The first time I took it into the dealer and under warranty, they had to replace the entire rear window. The side view mirror defrosters still worked and they still work now. It just seems that the rear isn't working again and this time my warranty has run out.
Should I take it back to the dealer and hope they honor their work? My 3yr/36k expired 4 months ago. How could I even test that it is working? I've only had to use it 2 or 3x since last Feb. and that's when I noticed it doesn't seem to be working. I only had to use it for short trips so the main defroster in the cab eventually defrosted the rear window. The weather is warmer so now I won't have as many chances to have it fogged up.
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My blower on my 2010 Lariat truck isn't working and I can't seem to figure the issue. No heat or AC. It seems that some air is coming through, and the fan indicator shows it on high, but nothing.
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We purchased a brand new 16' tandem trailer last night. Plugged it in to my husbands 2011 F150 and hooked it up, lights went on, directionals, hazards, and break lights will not go on UNLESS the trailer light itself is taken off the trailer. We are thinking a grounding issue.
We pulled our 2011 F150 up to another trailer, same issue, only the running lights works.
Two days ago a old single axle trailer worked fine, break lights, directionals, everything.
When the owner put electrical tape around the bolts that connected the lights to the trailer the directionals worked, then they tightened up the nuts it touched the metal part of the trailer, it (meaning directionals, hazards, break lights) stopped working, (but the running lights stayed on). Are we tripping or what the heck is going on here?
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I have a new issue now with my 2011 F150 FX4. The sync stopped working the day before. I got nothing when I pushed the Media button. No phone, directions, menu. Then it started working for a while yesterday then stopped, Later on it started working now it nothing.
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I have only had my truck a few days and have a problem with the remote start.
It worked great for the first few days, but now this.
This morning i was in the house and tried to remote start. Lock, then the 2x button 2 times. truck beeped at me. So i did it again and again. Nothing but the truck honking at me. So i tried, unlock, lock 2x. Still honked at me.
THen i went out in the cold 5 ft from the truck and it did the same thing. so i climbed in started the truck manually, then shut it off , got out locked the doors. Then i did the lock, 2x two times and the truck fired up.
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Ok we have a 2012 F-150 and are trying to hook up a 16ft trailer but have no lights. We know the trailer wiring is fine (works on other vehicles) but we have no power at the 4 pin trailer connector. We have checked the fuses and all are fine. Having this problem on a 2012?
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i have a 2013 Ecoboost Screw. This morning, I was leaving for work about 0445, and was pulling out of my driveway, when I realized my headlights were not on. I tried rotating the switch a few times off and on, and still nothing. I pulled back in my driveway and checked all fuses for headlights, both low beams and high beams. All good. My parking lights, turn signals, and tail lights all work.
When I got home from work tonight, I tried a few more things. I pulled the lamp housing and checked for voltage directly to the bulb. I get 0.9 VDC at one pin and 0 VDC at the other two. Not nearly enough to fire up a bulb. To a known good ground.
I opened the dashboard to check the harness at the switch itself, and when I unplugged it, all lights turned on (except the headlights). Is that a failsafe in case the switch goes out while driving?
As a last ditch desperate measure, I disconnected my negative battery terminal for about 15 minutes just to see if anything changed. I don't know where else to go from here.
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The door lock switch on the driver's door isn't working. All other lock functions work. Is there a setting like auto lock or something that disables this, or is it another issue.
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Been having an issue lately with the AC system on my 2010 4.6L F150. The AC system is not working properly and is only blowing air the same temp as outside. In other words, if its 60 degrees in the morning the AC will blow cool, but later in the day its blowing warm. Pushes air no problem, but living in Florida, it's mainly warm air. Compressor clutch is kicking on and off fairly rapidly when on max AC setting (5-10 seconds on, then 5-10 seconds off). Hooked up gauge to low pressure side and the readings were 60psi WITH compressor on, then fell to 30psi when the compressor turns off. Where to start? Haven't done too many AC fixes before. Potentially a bad compressor? Overcharged lines?
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Yesterday I replaced the battery in my 2013 F150. Since I did this, both running boards just stopped working. I checked the fuse, it is good. Is there a connector around the batter that I may have knocked loose?
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The media button on SYNC quit working last week(2010 F150, six cd player, no navigation). No voice commands or phone, also can not perform the "Master Reset" because the phone button on dash does not work. I have had this issue before and pulling fuse 13 for a couple of minutes always fixed it. Pulling the fuse no longer fixes the problem. I also tried disconnecting the battery.
I left the cable off overnight and still no luck. I came across a similar problem being fixed by a ACM reprogramming TSB (SYNC (possibly) Fixed by TSB 11-10-22) on a another forum. Do reprogramming working on a dead SYNC system when the hard reset was tried and did not solve the problem? Dealer did not want to reprogram ACM and told me need a new APIM.
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i have a 2011 fx4 the other day the power seat stopped working and i could hear a clicking sound coming from under the seat. I have searched on google and have found its very common on the older trucks to have a wire splice issue i was wondering if that applies to the 2011 or if there is any other common power seat issues.
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Does the Ford emblem/camera just pop off the tailgate with a screw driver? Pry from top or bottom? I'm trying not to break anything here. I removed the tailgate panel inside and can't get any access there.
Both the camera and reverse sensors have quit working. I'm troubleshooting both but I'm not sure they are related. The camera died first but worked sometimes after slamming the tailgate. Sensors quit sometime after. Don't really care about the sensors but the camera is essential for hooking up the trailers.
I was hoping the wiring from the tailgate to the plug would be cut but that doesn't appear to be the case. I'd like to check the camera itself next. Ohm it out or something, I don't know.
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I have a 2011 F-150 FX4. The Sync functions have completely stopped. When I press the phone or talk button, nothing happens. What have I done? How do I get it going again?
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