Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2010 5.4L - CEL Came On Knock Sensor Replacement
Oct 1, 2013
Recently, my CEL came on. I had the guys at Autozone read the code and they said it was the knock sensor on bank 2. I disconnected the battery to clear it but after 100 miles or so it came back on. Idling, my engine runs as quietly as it ever has (can't tell it's running if the windows are up) so I'm hoping that the sensor has gone bad. I can't hear any knock at any speed but the re-appearance of the light has noticeably affected the engine performance. Any link that even shows where the sensor is located? If I can find it, I can replace it.
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I have a check engine light on which diagnosed by Autozone relates to O2 Sensor, Bank 2 Sensor 1.
I realize sensor 1 is upstream before cat converter. However, I've received varying opinions as to which side is Bank 2, driver or passenger.
2010 F150 4.6 V8, produced in 5/10
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My 2010 5.4 F-150 Lariat 2WD truck has 130,000 Miles on it and the gas mileage took a dive from 16.5 to 15.2. I'm over due to change the spark plugs. Are there any secrets or tricks I should know about before I get started changing them.
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Ford Tech. told me today the reason my a/c wouldn't cool is I have a bad evap. temp. sensor and this part was "non-replaceable" the fix is a HVAC Box from ford, (price includes a h/core replacement since dash would already be out) it has 85000 miles 2010 f150 Screw 4x4.is this my only option for repairing my a/c.
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I have a 2010 F150 with the 5.4 V8. How many cam shaft position sensor do I have ??? I replaced one but I swear I see one one the passenger side...
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Replacing the knock sensor on a 2009-2010 Sonata with a 2.4l? Where exactly is it located and what has to be removed?
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I'm looking for the location of the knock sensor I can't find it?
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My 2012 3.5 ecoboost has a knock and power lag during acceleration. Dealer diagnosed as timing chain and cam shaft phasers. I asked if this was common and they said, "yes, it will happen to all of them at some point." Basically, he said if you baby the truck it will take longer, but still happen. Wasn't surprised I'm having it at 67k miles as he saw another recently at 70k. The power drop is dramatic, so I don't see any option, but to have the work done.
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My 2011 F-150 Super crew eb has started to have a knock that comes from under the dash in the radio area. It doesn't occur every time it's started. It is 3 or 4 knocks that sound like a plastic gear slipping, then it stops. I am thinking something in the vent/defrost door. Is it vacuum operated or electronic? Any thoughts?
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I have an issue with my new 2011 F150 FX4 super crew with 5.0. I put a Rough Country level kit on the front struts which raised it 2.5 inches and looks great. The issue is that there is a low speed knock heard on the left side and felt through to the steering wheel. The truck has been aligned to factory specs. all bolts have been tightened, the strut has been taken off to check the top mounting bolts. Nothing appears to loose. Can't find anything. Am I forgetting something. Rough Country said it can't be the kit. It has bee used for sometime with no issues.
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I have a 2010 Toyota Corolla 1.8L, the base model.
I recently had a check engine light, VSC off light (blinking) and traction control light come on. I took it to Autozone and had a p0037 code ring up for a new Bank 1 Sensor 2 oxygen sensor (downstream). I believe I have found the correct sensor (located under car, approximately near drivers seat) and it looks simple to replace, aside from the fact that the wires go through the car body.
Can confirm that I have located the correct sensor? And if so, what is the best way to get to where the wires connect?
Is it located under the drivers seat? What should I do about the rubber grommet located under the car where the wires appear to pass through?
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I finally made a recording (attached), I would suggest listening to it with headphones if possible. The noise I'm referring to is featured between the 0:28 and 1:00 marks. You can hear it again from about 1:10 to 1:25.
Just to recap:
2014 GX Premium pkg.
4400 miles
93 Octane always
The sequence of events is such:
1- Car is parked overnight in garage, air temperature is 60 degrees or less
2- Start car, pull out of garage
3- Put car in D
4- Drive to stop sign at end of street
5- The transmission downshifts and engine revs slightly as the car comes to a stop
6- After sitting at the stop for a few seconds, foot on brake, engine at idle, it starts to make that thumping/clunk noise
7- Noise stops once I start moving again, and does not come back once the engine is warmed up
Note: This happens whenever the temperature is 60 degrees or below and the engine is cold/car has been sitting overnight. All accessory systems were shut off for this recording/demonstration (no A/C or heat running, no radio or other accessories on).
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Where the oil pressure sensor is located on a 2013 F150 with the V8 is located?
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I have a 2006 f150 with the 5.4 with 150k miles and I thought it was originally an exhaust leak so had that checked then thought maybe the cats went back and had that checked and after that read up on all the IWE threads and decided to replace them. Replaced them and the actuator and the problem seems worse. Now the noise is constant will accelerating. It use to be intermittent but now it's all the time unless in 4wd or coasting. What the problem could be? I know the truck is 10 years old but in great condition, everyone is surprised it's as old as it is.
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Had a slight boo boo today with my truck backing out of a garage - snagged the right side (passenger side) mirror on the g-door rail and snapped the ball and socket of the mirror.
Tried to search the net for a replacement mirror and not having much luck. In locating one. I found one site but they do not carry the painted version of the mirror just the mat-plastic finish.
2009 - F150 - Lariat - Stone Green color....
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I have a 2012 F150 5.0L that I bought used in 2014. Apparently the original owner had replaced the exhaust with a dual exhaust (converter to muffler to two pipes out of muffler), but didn't spend a lot of money on it (?) and it rusted out. My dealer--we have a pretty decent dealership here, and they've done my service for years--sent me to a local exhaust/muffler guy, who recommended that I go back to a single exhaust, and happened to have an OEM setup that had come off of someone else's new truck. He put it on my truck, and so far all seems fine. (small town; bad service places tend not to survive, and both the dealer and the muffler shop are institutions)
I'm an older, single woman who has horses, so my truck is primarily for hauling one or two horses and hauling hay and feed and such. I want my truck to last--my previous one was a beloved 97 F250 7.3L diesel that I had for 17 years, but, while the engine will run forever, the peripherals were starting to worry me and it needed to find a home with someone for whom getting stuck on the side of the road was an adventure, not an major inconvenience. Anyhow--so, I'm a gentle drive, my truck gets serviced regularly, and reliability is my primary concern.
The new system is quiet. Really quiet. Coming off a diesel, I actually liked the bit of growl I got from the old system, and being able to hear my engine, but I didn't have the heart to say that to the nice gentleman at the muffler shop, and it's not a big deal. My concern is that I have no way of knowing what vehicle the thing came off of, and the guy said it didn't matter that much; it did fit on my truck, and he said it came off of a brand new F150, but it had a suspicious "CHEV" chalked on it ... (FYI, there is an additional resonator after the muffler--it was a bit of a tight squeeze between the spare tire, but it did fit)
So my question--should I be worried? How quiet should my truck be?? It is my understanding that the OEM exhaust on the 5.0L has a bit of growl to it, so I kind of doubt this rig came off of a 5.0. How generic are exhaust systems? What effects might it have on my engine? I trust my service guys, so I trust their recommendation of this muffler shop, but I'd like to hear other opinions, beyond "it will be okay ..." Are there any "buts" in this situation?
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I have a 2011 F150 FX4 Ecoboost w/ 37K. I recently had to have the master cylinder replaced along w/ all my brake pads because it was not disengaging the calipers properly, so all of my pads were prematurely worn and cracked. I was wondering, it seems like this shouldn't happen on a truck this "young".
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2009 F-150 FX4 SuperCrew 4X4 5.4L
My ABS and stability control lights are on. I had the codes pulled today (listed in order):
1) C1298 (Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal Fault)
2) C1165 (Right Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure)
3) C1963 (Stability Control Inhibit Warning)
4) C1299 (Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Signal Fault)
5) C1175 (Left Rear Wheel Speed Sensor Input Circuit Failure)
I'll ignore the stability control code for now since I'm sure it is tied to the speed sensor errors. Anyways, I decided to inspect the rear wheels and I found this sucker just hanging beneath the right rear brake caliper:
Is this a speed sensor? Where does it plug into? Diagrams would be extremely useful! I am planning on ordering 2 new sensors for each rear wheel but I don't know where to begin.
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I have a 2011 F-150 Super Crew and have had to replace the back up camera due to a malfunction. Once the dealer replaced it under warranty I was no longer able to get all the options that the previous camera had. Since then the 2nd camera went bad and I just had it replaced again. This new camera still is missing 2 of the options the original camera had. The dealer now tells me that they must have been deleted off the software on the replacement cameras. They were unable to verify that through Ford though.
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Ok so besides intercooler condensation causing misfires this is the #1 reason for misfires on this engine. Any misfires on this engine has great potential to damage the catalyst and should not be taken lightly. As many know by now boosted engines are hard on the plugs be it iridium platinum whatever and you may find the need for new plugs by 50k miles. More so now as many are coming in with carbon tracking as this one had. In this video I walk you through the procedure to change out plugs on these engines with the revised plugs, gap specs and TSB that have all come out recently.
Ford F150 3.5L V6 Ecoboost Misfires: Spark Plug Replacement - YouTube...
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I would get "Tire Pressure Sensor Fault" on my display all the time. The problem occurred mostly on long trips, however, it would occur from time to time on shorter trips. I complained to the dealer about this every time I went in for an oil change. They could never find a problem and wanted me to bring it in when the fault was occurring. Of course these thing never happen when you're by a dealer. To my dealers credit they said they would fix the problem out of warranty if we can find it.
Well I found the problem. As strange as it sounds if I use the cigarette lighter with a power USB adapter to charge my phone or iPad I get the fault. If I use the 12V accessory port on the dash no fault.
Last weekend we drove to Nisswa MN & back (about 1,200 miles). To test the theory I only used the 12V accessory port and no fault occurred. Normally the fault would occur w/in 50 miles then just continue on being annoying the whole rest of the trip. I wish I would have found this out 57,000 miles ago. I use the adapter because the USB port on the dash will only charge my iPhone if the phone is off.
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