Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2010 4x4 5.4L - Code P2096 Showing Up
Apr 20, 2015
My truck ('10 4x4 w/5.4l, 65k miles) gave a P2096 this past weekend. Cleared it and drove around for a while. Today it threw the same code. No other codes present, just P2096.
I did look under the truck and it seems pretty easy to get to the two sensors. Is it worth swapping them to see if the code changes to the other side?
Truck idles and accelerates just fine. Fuel mileage seems to be down a bit, but the air filter is very dirty and I will be replacing that this week.
I have seen you can check the sensor by heating it and measuring the voltage. Seems easy enough to do, but do you create other problems from that?
I did notice that the connector to the mass air flow sensor is cracked, probably from checking the air filter. I would think if that was the issue it would be showing some MAF code.
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2010 f150 with 5.4 catalytic converter. Engine light has been going on and off for the past couple of months. Had the code read and its says bank one catalytic converter. Ford dealer said to replace the 02 sensors. Had that done but light still comes on and off with same code. Could there be something wrong with the sensor or should I just have the CC replaced also. I just don't understand why it would come on for a few days and then not come on for a few days if its the CC?
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Town and all shops nearby have a week wait to get the truck in there. This happened once or twice a year ago but I'd pull over, shut it off and when I restarted it everything was fine. I'll be driving and all of a sudden the information display on the cluster will show a wrench signaling something's wrong(see image), then the speedometer will go to 0 and all information in center display will show flat lines. This started up yesterday but is now doing it after about 10min of driving every time I being driving. What's worse is the truck will randomly start shifting or shift extremely hard even when driving at a consistent speed. This was taken while truck was going about 45, but shows 0...
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I have a 2012 ecoboost, recently I went to the trip gauge mode and the display screen for trip A had a yellow rectangle imposed over the time,mpg ect.and would not function correctly. When I switch to trip B info, all info operated correctly and no yellow rectangle in trip B mode. Trip A mode continues be inoperable and still has the yellow rectangle even after the engine was shut off several times during the day.
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The check engine light on my 09 Corolla came on so, after it continuing to stay on, I bought a OBD ll Code Reader. The scan showed 10 faults but, only 3 code numbers were given for the 10 faults. Each of the 3 code numbers appeared twice for a total of 6 out of the 10 faults indicated. The remaining 4 faults had no corresponding code numbers. Don't know why but, they just didn't. Even after multiple scans.
Here are the code numbers that did show.
P2401(twice)
P2402(twice)
P2419(twice)
According to the CD that came with the reader, this is what the codes mean.
P2401.. evap emission system leak detection pump control circuit low.
P2402.. same thing as above except control circuit high.
P2419.. evap emission system switching valve control circuit low.
Looking for more specific explanation to me what this all means then it has something to do with emissions. Is it something that should be of concerned? I have erased the codes a couple of times but after a day or two, the engine light comes on again. This has been going on for over a month now but, the car is working great. Last road trip, I got approx 52 mpg.
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I have an 05 accent that overheats on short rides, it smells of antifreeze when you pop the hood. There are no visible leaks, and the antifreeze level is good.
Also the check engine light is on and is outputting a P2096 code.
I'm stumped as to what this problem could be, at first I was thinking thermostat or some kind of clog or something like that, now I'm not so sure.
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Got a cel yesterday, got it checked out it read a P2096 fault code. The car runs fine, cleared the code it came back later in the day.
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This is in regards to a 2007 Accent 111k miles, about 3 weeks or so .. I had a p0420 code, and replaced the downstream o2 sensor, and the CEL went off, and gas mileage went up. Now today I got p2096 code. Seems to mirror the p0420 code. So now I am thinking the catalytic converter.
So my questions are:
There are two catalytic converters right? one would be the exhaust manifold and the other would be half way through the exhaust system after the two o2 sensors?
Which should be replaced in regards to p2096?
Could anything else be causing this code?
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In my quest to get my girlfriends car working, I'm encountering several hurdles, but this one is quickly the most expensive waste if the wrong parts are installed. The car is running rich and rough, lacks power. Here is what I have
Code P2096 - Post Catalust Fuel Trim System Too Lean. The manual indicates: Faulty PCM, Faulty Cat, Faulty rear o2 sensor, or hole in the exhaust line.
When I replaced the o2 sensor, I reset the OBD system and the car ran like a dream for about a week, then same problem, started running rich and rough again, a huge loss of power as well. It doesn't smell like a bad cat, I've replaced to o2 sensor.
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Car Throwing This Code ... P2096 Post Fuel Trim Too Lean-B1 ...
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Our 2005 Hyundai Accent GLS refused to start yesterday. It seemed like the engine was struggling to turn over. It took about 10 minutes and then the engine FINALLY started. CEL came on. We drove about 1 mile and back, and the engine seemed fine. We even turned the car off, and turned it back on with no issues.
We took it into the shop but it's been about a day and they can't replicate the issue.
FYI, the CEL code is "P2096" (Post Catalytic Fuel Trim Bank 1 System Too Lean). This has prompted the garage to look at the fuel pressure system.
Historical Issues:
1. Last year, we found out that the car had minor issues trying to start up. Specifically, it takes an extra second or two for the fuel to be injected into the engine upon start-up.
We would mitigate this by: sticking the key in > turning the key halfway > wait about 2 seconds > then turn the key all the way.
I wonder if this starter ignition or fuel injector is wearing out.
2. About 2 months ago, the car started to struggle when it came to changing gears -- especially on the highway when trying to reach the 4th gear. The car would also randomly jerk regardless if we were decelerating, accelerating or maintaining speed.
Around that same time, the car struggled to go uphill (especially on a very steep highway hill that's near our house). The CEL would flash and we were constantly nervous that the car would simply die and roll backwards.
It seemed like a transmission issue but the garage we took it to replaced the coils, wires, plugs, and vacuumed out excess carbon dioxide buildup. Since doing so, the car was running perfectly.
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What is the code for an FX4 is? Reason I ask is when I go online to Ford dealer inventory listing it shows something like "F150 4X4 SS S/C" but I don't see anything like "FX4."
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I have a 2011 Elantra that I purchased brand new. Has over 60,000 miles on it. Had a check engine light come about year or so ago which was fixed with a software update at the dealer.
Check engine light is back on now. Steady light; it's not blinking. Brought it to my mechanic. Ran diagnostic and said the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced. P codes were P2096 and P2196. He ordered the sensor from the dealership and installed it. Reset my cars computer. I drove the car 26 miles and the engine light came on again.
Here are my questions:
1. Wouldn't my mechanic's diagnostic equipment tell him what the problem or all the problems were? Why would it tell him the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced when there seems to be another problem causing the engine light to come on?
2. Would the dealership have more insight into a check engine light system problem than a mechanic shop may have?
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I have a 2011 ecoboost with 69000 miles and I am starting to get the dreaded P0016 code along with the occasional P0299. I am almost done making payments on it but I am hesitant about sinking the kind of money that it takes to repair the timing issues. SO the big question, is it worth keeping and making the repair or should I trade it and get a new 2016??
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I recently bought an 09 Ford F150 Fx4 and didn't get the door code from the owner. I looked and found what I think is the door lock control module above the fuse panel but the only 5 digit code doesn't unlock the door. What I can do the get the code?
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I just bought a 2010 f150 and it came with the single button remote start. I've been reading lots of posts about remote start but none with my issue. Mine when you push the button the horn beeps, ignition comes on, the seat slides forward, then the horn beeps just one time again, and it just sits there with the radio playing and not running. Everyone else is getting a 3 beep error code and I'm getting just the one beep.
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OK, 4th time in a week that my truck has had this problem... Seems to only be when the truck is already warmed up, restarting after sitting for a few minutes. Starts up just fine, but as soon as I drop it into gear it begins to stutter and stumble, running rough as can be and absolutely no throttle response. I have to kill the engine and restart the truck for it to correct itself, but the restart takes up to 5 seconds of extended cranking to finally fire up. Today is the first time I actually got a CEL and a code: P0078. Only had the truck 8 days now...
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Does the 2011 6.2 have a DPFE sensor? If so where is it located? Codes are lean bank one and two and random misfire. Suggestions I have read online are replace DPFE sensor. I don't think maybe there is one on a 2011 6.2. Who have had it and had it fixed. Other things I see are clean the MAF sensor. Look for vacuum leaks.
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My daughters 2009 ford escape will turn over fine but won't start. Hooked up code reader and it read p0690. I am trying to get a feel for what this really is. It seems to me a spark or fuel issue but that is not part of that code from what've read.
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I'm having issues when shifting into reverse and I it goes into limp mode when the wrench light shows up. This will not happen when shifting into Drive. When in limp mode I get engine code P0720. This calls for a bad Output Speed Sensor and my research says the sensor is on the back of the transmission but I cannot find any sensors on the transmission. there are several connectors clipped to it but I don't see any bolted in sensors. Also I cannot find a replacement sensor anywhere so I'm wondering if this is a generic code.
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