Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 1997 - Ride Stiffer With 5 Psi In Airbags?
Dec 20, 2013
I recently traded my 97 F-250 for a 2013 F-150 regular cab short bed 2wd. I tow a 3000 lb. cargo trailer 5 days a week, no trailer on weekends. When towing, the rear sags, and rolls in the turns. It's not too bad but if I load anything in the bed it gets worse. I am thinking about Firestone airbags but I have read mixed reviews about them on this forum. I am really enjoying the F-150 ride on the weekends and would like to maintain that, Is the ride really much stiffer when the bags have only 5psi in them
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I need to replace the shocks and springs in my truck. I would like a stiffer ride something that doesn't bounce to much and offers better handling.
I have a 2004 4X4 Diesel Excursion
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I just bought a new 2010 supercrew 4x4 lariat. I have 2000 mles on it. vehicle is equipped with 20" wheels with scorpion tires. Problem is that ride is very hard plus there is really annoying low level vibration that seems to be related to drivetrain - this vibration is most noticable on smooth roads. i have owned 99, 03, 05, and 08 4x4 lariat supercrews and this is by far the worst riding truck. i put a lot of miles on my trucks and this one is not in the least enjoyable to drive.
I took it back to ford dealership and they just said that these new bodies are 'stiffer' and transmit more vibration and that new 6 speed transmission is not as smooth. I reduced tire pressure from 40psi (as delivered) to 35psi with no difference. I don't buy it - I believe that something is wrong that can be fixed - but not sure where to look. Other than this problem i really like the truck!
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I have a 97 Honda Accord LX stick shift that's giving me some trouble. I bought it at 146k miles and now it has 151k miles.
-- Here is the symptom --I feel that I have to lift the clutch pedal higher to fully engage the clutch after driving for 20 mins. The problem showed up several times and one time the clutch was somewhat slipping and I had to park it somewhere and got towed. After sitting there for several hours or overnight, the problem would gone -- and it could show up again at some time. The strange thing is that I am not always getting this problem. The car could sometimes run over 1 hour without any unusual feeling on the clutch.
I also noticed that when the clutch is not working well, the clutch pedal is stiffer than usual (I never had problem disengaging the clutch though). When I push the pedal to the very bottom on the floor, I can hear some noise and the car even had a tendency to move a little when in 1st gear.
Once I opened the hood and looked at the position of the release fork when the car was cold. After driving about 20 minutes, I looked again and found that the fork moved a little bit away from the slave cylinder as if someone was pushing the clutch pedal gently! I think that's why the point at which the clutch engages is becoming higher. But I don't know what is the real problem. I replaced the slave cylinder last week but it did not solve the issue. Is the clutch bad again or the cylinder?
Here is the repair history --About a year and a half ago I found the clutch slipping. So I had the clutch replaced and the flywheel resurfaced by a mechanic. It was good for a few months until that problem rose again. Then I went to an auto shop. They told me that the slave cylinder was the real problem and got it replaced. I was good for about a year. Now I am still getting the trouble above.
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I have a 98 F150 4x4 Super Cab Long Bed that still has the original shocks which are in need of replacing. What shocks I should get that would provide a soft ride?
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I'm working on my 99 f-150. I replaced all my spark plugs and coils after I got a misfire on cylinder 3 reading on the scanner. The truck was running ok but two weeks later it started to ride rough again I checked the scanner and got the same reading for a misfire on cylinder 3. Why its giving me the same misfire again? Could my injector cause that misfire? What about the egr valve?
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Here is the critical info...1999 F-150 2wd supercab, 4.6 litre, Automatic, 138,000 mi
Recently, I had the upper control arms, upper ball joints, and lower ball joints replaced. They also did an alignment. Since then, the truck has had what seems to be a rough, jiggly ride. I can feel every little imperfection in the road, even when moving very slowly. I've also noticed that my doors sometimes rattle now (they didn't before the work was done). On the highway, sometimes it seems that a tire will get into a bouncing condition which can continue for quit awhile. It is also harder to keep the truck centered in the lane.
I went back to the same place that did the work and told them to double check everything, (which they did, found nothing wrong).
To try to fix this, I have...
replaced the shocks (new ones are bilstein)
balanced the tires
rotated the tires
checked air pressure (32 psi)
I don't know if the following facts have anything to do with anything, but... When I look at the upper control arm attachment points, there is a metal plate that is (I'm told) to keep the camber in the factory setting. This plate was removed on one side to adjust the camber away from the factory setting. Also, I don't see how the castor is controlled? Is there an adjustment for that. Can castor be to blame for any of this? Can cheap parts (control arm, ball joints) be to blame?
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I bought my wife a new 2014 Azera and we like it a lot but it seems to have a bounce at low speeds 0-20 mph, mainly when starting driving. It might seem to be a tire flat spot, but she only has 1,100 miles so far and it has always been there.
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The last few days I've noticed an extremely rough ride when in Normal Mode. In sport + mode I noticed a bit of a smoother ride where the bumps weren't as harsh. Which is the complete opposite of what's supposed to happen. My tire pressure is 36 and reaches 39-40 when hot. No clue why this is happening, should I be worried ? Should I lower the tire pressure a little maybe to much air is causing the harsh ride? Or should I reset the battery because my car is stuck in sport + mode when it should be normal.
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Looking to upgrade my struts to a stiffer ride, without lowering it. I've heard that coilovers aren't that great as far as ride quality....
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I purchased a 2014 Toyota Corolla Le Eco Plus last May. The car rode FINE for a few months, but then I began to notice that the ride feels completely rough/harsh. It's almost like a jittery feeling. After researching I've found reviews that said "the Corolla's ride is harsh and unpleasant," but to me it feels like it's gradually getting worse. That has me thinking something is wrong with the car itself, not just that the Corolla in general rides rough. I've taken it in to the dealership multiple times, but they say nothing is wrong. I honestly don't know what to do. What could it be? Struts? Shocks? I mean, it's BRAND NEW.
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I have a 2010 corolla S with around 15K miles. I'm not sure if this is really an issue but it has been bugging me for sometime. I have noticed that sometimes the engine / ride feels really smooth and feels as if the car just sails along. But most of the days the ride feels a little bit rough/grainy... I drive mostly in the city (around 80%) and live close to work (3miles one way). I do oil changes every 5 months... Would some kind of tuning be required? Or is this just normal?
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I just purchased a 2010 Corolla LE with 21,000 miles and I am wondering if I just made an immense mistake. I raised the question during the test drive and the salesman said all Corollas sound and ride the same, his wife had one, etc., telling me it's fine.
I badly needed to replace my old car and bought, despite my misgivings. Now that I own it, the road noise is staggering. Truly stunning and unpleasant. Or, from a bit of reading here, perhaps it's the tires. Really?
And every bump reverberates through my whole body and sounds like bad shocks. Whomp, whomp, whomp, down the road! But this is a certified car and supposedly they would have checked shocks/struts or whatever is there.
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Started a while back and comes and goes. Only commonality I have found is the truck needs to be warmed up for it to happen and usually after a few hours of driving. The downshift from 5th or 6th into fourth, at times, produces anywhere from a light to violent clunk, feels like a typical tranny slip. It will do it while in cruise and it will do it if I don't have the cruise on. Can't figure out if it is going to be a tune issue or hardware.
It does it only downshifting into 4th from 5th or 6th, no other downshifting is a problem and usually the 6th to 4th produces the worst results. At highway speeds that is usually a shift from around 2Krpm to just over 3K rpm (6th to 4th) if it is from 5th it is about 2500 to 3K. Start from a stop and go WOT and there are no issues.
Having it in Tow/Haul or not makes no difference as far as I can tell. IT can do it on one hill and the next time be just fine or do it 2-3 hills in a row. After this last trip it will do it at 9K feet or at 60 feet elevation, didn't make a difference there either.
Another issue that may be hurting the computer is the truck originally came with the 235 tires, it now has 285's and the rear is only 3.31. I plan on going with 265's and maybe still a gear change to 3.73's in the future. I usually only notice this on long trips, first was a 1500mile hauling an ATV, second was last week during a 2500 mile empty. Although I have had it do it a few times locally. I figure those bigger tires can't be good especially with that high of a rear for the management system.
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What are some pros/cons you have with yours? Both 5.4 supercabs xlt im looking at just cant decide. The 09 has a overall higher rating but its not to much more.
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I am lowering the front end of my truck 3" using DJM Dream Beams. I have cut out the rear springs and replaced them with a four link lowering it 4" and installing an air bag suspension. I would like to run air bags up front, as well, but haven't been able to find much about that. What size to use?
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I waned to know if I get a set of airbags for my f350 dully would it de hard to install
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2000 E150 - I see a pair of airbags listed at a salvage yard with module. Do I need the module? Do the "switches" that set off the airbags reset?
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Shifting into gear was a problem occasionally, but lately, within 15 minutes of driving, I start feeling the shifting into higher or lower gear getting stiffer and will not shift into gear.I've shared the problem with couple of my mechanics and it left them puzzled, since there are no leaks or low levels of fluid.
B2600i '92 cab ....
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So ever since i put stiffer motors mounts in my car, the trans has whined. It was perfectly fine before the new motor mounts.
Its not nearly as loud as what straight cut gears sound like....but after taking my car on a road trip to Atlantic City this weekend, it does get annoying after a while. Happens every gear but at low RPMS... 1900-3000 RPMS.
4th gear seems to be the worse. This is not my daily driver so i can live with it, but if it was my daily i would be annoyed and probably but the stock mounts back in. While on the road course i do not hear it because i am at high RPMS and the noise isn't really there (well it might get muffled by the sound of the engine but i hear no whine)
I actually hear everything going on in the trans to be honest, i can hear the clutch engaging/disengaging and every move i make with the trans. (i am glad i still have the dual mass because im sure the chatter would be 10 times louder with stiffer mounts)
I run OEM trans fluid... i have heard of some guys running different fluid to quiet it down some...
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Anyways i have a 2007 Chevy Silverado 5.3L that is having some difficulties with the power steering, let me explain. About 2 weeks ago i noticed when i first started my truck that the steering was stiffer than normal, so i checked the fluid and indeed it was low. Great i thought i will add some more power steering fluid, which i did and bam instantly fixed. Well fast forward to yesterday and all of a sudden now the steering is even worse. I thought dang i must be leaking fluids, but no the fluid level was just fine. I checked it both when the engine was hot and cold. The real mystery of this is that I am not hearing any weird noises, no whining or signs of a bad belt. Maybe the pump is going bad? Not sure what is going on here.
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