I checked a few fuses when my 12v power sources quit working and now the engine won't start. I get a start system fault and hill incline fault among other warnings. What happened?
View 2 RepliesYesterday I replaced the battery in my 2013 F150. Since I did this, both running boards just stopped working. I checked the fuse, it is good. Is there a connector around the batter that I may have knocked loose?
View 11 RepliesI've only had my F150 for about 3 weeks and I think I've discovered a design flaw-
If you park on a 20% or steeper incline and the tank is less than about 1/8th full - the truck won't start. It has the 36 gallon tank - and the fuel pickup is located in the center.
The service rep told me that they have the same problem with the showroom trucks when they park them on a grass hill in front of the dealership. They have to roll them down onto the street to start them if the gas tank is too low...
Boy, I tell ya, there's no disclaimer sticker telling me to not let the gas get too low if you live in an area with lots of hills. I don't think I would have bought it if I had know this. The service guy described another owner of an F250 having the same problem...
We have a 2012 Ford Flex with remote start. Remote start doesn't seem to work when car is on an incline. Backed car into driveway and started but won't when pulled in. Is this common Remote start is separate key fob.Remote start is factory.
View 6 RepliesLast time this truck did this, I replaced the #27 fuse and it started right up. This time, no such luck. It is EXTREMELY frustrating to pay this much money for a truck that you cant start. Btw, it has 38 miles until its on empty.. Any way that could be the cause if i am parked in my drive way which has a slight incline?
View 3 Repliesi have a 2013 Ecoboost Screw. This morning, I was leaving for work about 0445, and was pulling out of my driveway, when I realized my headlights were not on. I tried rotating the switch a few times off and on, and still nothing. I pulled back in my driveway and checked all fuses for headlights, both low beams and high beams. All good. My parking lights, turn signals, and tail lights all work.
When I got home from work tonight, I tried a few more things. I pulled the lamp housing and checked for voltage directly to the bulb. I get 0.9 VDC at one pin and 0 VDC at the other two. Not nearly enough to fire up a bulb. To a known good ground.
I opened the dashboard to check the harness at the switch itself, and when I unplugged it, all lights turned on (except the headlights). Is that a failsafe in case the switch goes out while driving?
As a last ditch desperate measure, I disconnected my negative battery terminal for about 15 minutes just to see if anything changed. I don't know where else to go from here.
The media button on SYNC quit working last week(2010 F150, six cd player, no navigation). No voice commands or phone, also can not perform the "Master Reset" because the phone button on dash does not work. I have had this issue before and pulling fuse 13 for a couple of minutes always fixed it. Pulling the fuse no longer fixes the problem. I also tried disconnecting the battery.
I left the cable off overnight and still no luck. I came across a similar problem being fixed by a ACM reprogramming TSB (SYNC (possibly) Fixed by TSB 11-10-22) on a another forum. Do reprogramming working on a dead SYNC system when the hard reset was tried and did not solve the problem? Dealer did not want to reprogram ACM and told me need a new APIM.
Does the Ford emblem/camera just pop off the tailgate with a screw driver? Pry from top or bottom? I'm trying not to break anything here. I removed the tailgate panel inside and can't get any access there.
Both the camera and reverse sensors have quit working. I'm troubleshooting both but I'm not sure they are related. The camera died first but worked sometimes after slamming the tailgate. Sensors quit sometime after. Don't really care about the sensors but the camera is essential for hooking up the trailers.
I was hoping the wiring from the tailgate to the plug would be cut but that doesn't appear to be the case. I'd like to check the camera itself next. Ohm it out or something, I don't know.
I took my truck to the dealer because my steering wheel buttons quit working as far as going forward or back between songs via bluetooth. The tech said the buttons don't work via bluetooth from the factory and I told him he was wrong. They worked in a 2007 Edge, 2008 F150, 2009 Fusion, 2009 F250, and until the day before, my 2012 F150. He said "You must be mistaken". I took it home, pulled Fuse 2 (Sync) waited a couple of minutes (Nice place for the fuse box, Ford) put the fuse back, let Sync load, repaired, etc, and my steering buttons now work again. I only use bluetooth with both my S3 and Note 2, so if your buttons stop working, do you always have to pull the fuse, or is there an easier way to fix this? That's the fix I found.
View 8 RepliesHave a '13 F150 Platinum. Recently three things "broke" at the same time and I suspect a fuse but cannot locate the right one. At first I thought it was just the GD Opener, but when trying to reprogram it, I realized the red lights were not lighting up and the Drivers side Vanity Mirror light was not working.
About the same time, I noticed that the Instrument Cluster Memory function quit working and weirdly, every time the truck is switched off and then back on, it always comes back to the trailer tow screen for my Snowmobile trailer.
I thought i had it solved when I found that the trailer back-up lamp relay power fuse ( #43 in fusebox under hood) was blown. I replaced with a good 15 amp fuse and the problems are still there. I have searched high and low and cannot find a fuse for the Car2u GD Opener or the Driver Vanity Mirror Light (neither Vanity light for that matter. I tested all under hood fuses, but the kick panel fuses are impossible to check one-by-one.
So just recently my remote start quit working. It's worked fine for the last two years. Now after I hit the buttons the truck just honks. I tried going through the setup on the dash and turning it off and back on. Still just honks at me.
View 8 RepliesThe 12 V power outlet on my 2009 Corolla has quit working. Checked the fuse and it is not blown still no adapter works when plugged into the socket. The car just turned over 36,000 so it's now out of warranty (good thing the water pump failed at 32,000). The owners manual only shows fuses in the engine compartment is a separate fuse block for the dash that could be blown or perhaps a disconnected socket or wiring problem. How to access the back of the 12 V power socket? BTW my dealer has informed me that since my cars VIN begins with J it is not affected by the gas pedal recall. Haven't seen this anywhere so thought I'd share it.
View 13 RepliesI would like my two 12V power plugs to be switched with the key instead of on all the time. Is there any easy way to do this?
View 14 RepliesI have only had my truck a few days and have a problem with the remote start.
It worked great for the first few days, but now this.
This morning i was in the house and tried to remote start. Lock, then the 2x button 2 times. truck beeped at me. So i did it again and again. Nothing but the truck honking at me. So i tried, unlock, lock 2x. Still honked at me.
THen i went out in the cold 5 ft from the truck and it did the same thing. so i climbed in started the truck manually, then shut it off , got out locked the doors. Then i did the lock, 2x two times and the truck fired up.
i have a 2011 fx4 the other day the power seat stopped working and i could hear a clicking sound coming from under the seat. I have searched on google and have found its very common on the older trucks to have a wire splice issue i was wondering if that applies to the 2011 or if there is any other common power seat issues.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 f150 XL. 4.6L The power steering would work one day and not the next and work again and so on. But now it just stopped. How can you tell if the pump or the rack and pinion is bad. My reservoir full of fluid. When I start the truck turn the wheels there's no whining sound. Should the fluid in the reservoir be flowing?
View 1 RepliesSo I went to start my truck this am. Fired up fine. Put it in drive and the check advance track light came on, 2 minutes later the oil pressure dropped to zero and truck quit at the same time. Checked oil and it was good, repeated same process 3 times. I just let it idle for ten minutes then it was fine.
View 8 RepliesSo, coming home tonight, I had a new error pop up that I haven't seen before - TIRE PRESSURE SENSOR FAULT - combined with an extremely irritating flashing TPMS light.
I had new tires put on last week... have right at 102K on the truck now. It's an 09 XLT Screw 6.5' bed 4x2.
What will be the possible cause? Is it at all likely that the sensor was damaged during the tire install? I don't want to give the tire shop a hard time if it wasn't their fault, but the timing seems a bit of a coincidence.
I would get "Tire Pressure Sensor Fault" on my display all the time. The problem occurred mostly on long trips, however, it would occur from time to time on shorter trips. I complained to the dealer about this every time I went in for an oil change. They could never find a problem and wanted me to bring it in when the fault was occurring. Of course these thing never happen when you're by a dealer. To my dealers credit they said they would fix the problem out of warranty if we can find it.
Well I found the problem. As strange as it sounds if I use the cigarette lighter with a power USB adapter to charge my phone or iPad I get the fault. If I use the 12V accessory port on the dash no fault.
Last weekend we drove to Nisswa MN & back (about 1,200 miles). To test the theory I only used the 12V accessory port and no fault occurred. Normally the fault would occur w/in 50 miles then just continue on being annoying the whole rest of the trip. I wish I would have found this out 57,000 miles ago. I use the adapter because the USB port on the dash will only charge my iPhone if the phone is off.
Troubleshooting a problem with friend's 2000 F250. His power windows aren't working and are causing problems with his door locks and interior lights. When he tries to use his drivers side power window, his power door locks quit working. If he puts the switch to raise, the interior lights flash. From what I've read, it sounds like the GEM to me, we've inspected the wiring and it all looks good. I pulled it out today and it looks good inside, no sign of water leaks on it. If it is the gem, how much do they cost and do they require programming?
View 5 RepliesMy 2007 has been having this issue for the last couple of years and has gotten pretty consistent lately. When it's below about 60 and the engine has cooled to ambient temps, it will crank all day and not start. Once ambient temps are about 60, it will fire up and runs like a champ. You'd never know it had an issue. It's got a #4 glow plug fault. Other than that, everything is reading within parameters. FICM, GPCM, or what?
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