Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 12 Volt Outlet Constant Power
Aug 19, 2016
I put a dash cam in my truck that powers off when the truck is turned off. But all of the 12v outlets in the truck are constant power. Is there any way to change one of them??
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Does 12 volt power outlet can be modified to be always on when the car is parked up?
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On a 2012 F-150, does the motor need to be running to use the AC outlet?
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How do I connect this ↓ to Camry 2002 Fuse Box - down, to the left of the steering wheel? Where do the red & black go?
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Change power supply to the 12v power outlet to a constant on power source?
Do it just a matter of a jumper wire or does a new wire have to be run to the outlet?
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I am having the headlight problem on my 2006 prius (and have seen thousands of posts about it). The drivers side goes in and out and has done so for 6 months. But now the passenger side is doing the same and the 12 volt outlet fuse has blown. There are 133000 miles on it (nothing done to the vehicle except oil changes and new tires) Replacement bulbs from eBay are on the way. I have replaced the fuse and its ok now. I don't know if they are unrelated or if this a battery issue.
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I have a 2006 f150 with the 5.4 with 150k miles and I thought it was originally an exhaust leak so had that checked then thought maybe the cats went back and had that checked and after that read up on all the IWE threads and decided to replace them. Replaced them and the actuator and the problem seems worse. Now the noise is constant will accelerating. It use to be intermittent but now it's all the time unless in 4wd or coasting. What the problem could be? I know the truck is 10 years old but in great condition, everyone is surprised it's as old as it is.
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I have owned my Prius three, not III, for just over 2 years now. The first year I had no issue but now, when charging my iPhone 6, the fuse blows every 2-4 weeks. (My phone is the ONLY thing I ever plug in there). I finally tried replacing the 15amp fuse with a 20amp (I know, that's a no no). But I still blew the 20amp fuse now.
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I recently tried to use my ipod through AUX input. It work fine from battery but when I also connect it to the 12V power outlet, it makes static noise in the speakers. Apparently there is 06-07 ISx50 TSIB regarding this issue and the fix is to install filter to the line input.
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The 12 V power outlet on my 2009 Corolla has quit working. Checked the fuse and it is not blown still no adapter works when plugged into the socket. The car just turned over 36,000 so it's now out of warranty (good thing the water pump failed at 32,000). The owners manual only shows fuses in the engine compartment is a separate fuse block for the dash that could be blown or perhaps a disconnected socket or wiring problem. How to access the back of the 12 V power socket? BTW my dealer has informed me that since my cars VIN begins with J it is not affected by the gas pedal recall. Haven't seen this anywhere so thought I'd share it.
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Im the second owner of a 2008 Toyota Prius (Package II) with 23k miles.
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Have a problem with the gauges and radio shutting down sometimes.. Thought it might be a loose wire or something.. But noticed on the scan gauge that it would happen when the volts went over 16 volts.. Is there an external voltage regulator or is it just time for a new alternator..
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Have a problem with the rear air distribution. I can not get it to work. What am I doing wrong?
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I've had a scangauge on my truck for years and today while on vacation I noticed the voltage was fluctuating between 12.5-13.5 while driving. It has always ran at 13.5-13.7 .... I checked it with a fluke and it is a solid and steady 13.8v at idle. Why would that gauge be fluctuating like that? Truck seems to be running fine.
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I'm looking to use a 5V location for the Dash Boss fuel pressure sensor. I know most of the sensors (except the CMP & CKP sensors) use a 5V reference voltage. Which one to use? AIT & EBP are close to the sensor mounting location.
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No power to the radio or cd unit. When I push the power button nothing comes on. Also my clock is flashing and I can't set it. What is the problem?
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Ok well here is the deal, I was on my way to work today and my 2009 F150 lost all power after I got it up to about 55 mph and my oil pressure gauge went down fast. I was on a 3 lane highway with no shoulder so I had to stop it in the far lane and the oil light came on when I took it out of gear and killed it. I got out and there was no oil anywhere so it did not leak out.
I started it again and the oil pressure gauge went up and then right back down. I had to have it towed to the dealership but I was just wondering what was the problem??? I believe it is either a sensor or the oil pump but leaning more towards a sensor.
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I have a 2005 F150 5.4 L 4 speed Tran. and a identical 2010 F150 5.4L but with a 5 speed Tran. that I just bought. it seems to have no passing power. I reset the PCM driver adaptive memory and the truck does not seem to have any pick up as compared to my 2005. Could it be the throttle body position sensor or something else.
2005 has over 200k
2010 has 80k
both are extended cab 4X4
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2009 F150 4wd.. I have no - power windows, door locks, radio, blinkers, will not shift out of park, no dome lights. all started last night after it was parked for about an hour the lights flashed on their own and when I went to leave this morning all of this is going on. I have :
- checked fuses - good
- checked for codes - none
Truck runs fine, you have to press the shift lock button to get it out of park,runs like normal.
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The truck has been a dream for several months and I had a coolant leak at the thermostat outlet. Changed the fitting and thermostat and sealed with lots of blue monkey snot. It's been perfect for a couple months but a week ago it started leaking again. Exactly the same as last time. I cleaned the mating surface of the water pump with a plastic scraper to remove the old sealer and then finished it with fine scotch brite. I looked at several parts breakdowns and none of them showed a gasket.......
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My 2012 3.5 ecoboost has a knock and power lag during acceleration. Dealer diagnosed as timing chain and cam shaft phasers. I asked if this was common and they said, "yes, it will happen to all of them at some point." Basically, he said if you baby the truck it will take longer, but still happen. Wasn't surprised I'm having it at 67k miles as he saw another recently at 70k. The power drop is dramatic, so I don't see any option, but to have the work done.
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