Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Hot Weather Now Caliper Is Dragging
Jun 7, 2011
The last two days after driving home i noticed a smell upon exiting the truck. today i figured out what it was, the left front wheel was smoking. i.e. i believe the brake is dragging. the weird thing is going to work no issue, coming home issue. big difference is yesterday coming home was about 90, today 95. in the morning yesterday it was 60 today 74.
Is it possible the hot temp is causing some kind of an issue? it just started getting hot here and this had never happened before.
Truck is an 05 4X4 Lariat SuperCab with 70K. did brakes ( rotors with angled coolng fins up front ) and pads at around 40K. i just rotated teh tires about 1500 mile ago and there was plenty of pad, inner and outer.
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Bought a high mileage 99 f150 4x4 yesterday. In the process of cleaning her up, the water hose hit the disc brakes on the drivers side and it was hotter than a BBQ grill! Ok, immediately I thought this isn't good. Jacked her up and pulled the caliper. Pads were almost gone so replaced them with a new set, went for a drive. Now the damn things were smoking so bad I thought they were gonna catch fire! Sticky caliper , right? Stopped and got one then realized that the passenger side started doing it too.
Another trip for the other caliper and new pads because these were toast. I mean just burnt to hell. Before I started working on the truck again, I checked on here and I'll be darned if I didn't find out that the old brake hoses might be acting like a check valve because of rust and deterioration. Got a set of brakes hoses too. Put everything on this morning and works like a charm.
1999 4.6 XL
Passenger side done
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I was uber excited to buy my first brand new truck in 09..... Amount numerous issues, defective rear window (fought with ford for 3 years never replaced under warranty), sync issues draining my battery, multiple O2 sensors replaced, multiple lights replaced and a blown drive shaft all under warranty. Now my warranty literally just ended, years not miles, just rolled 36k yesterday, ran out 3 years in November 12, now I'm having break issues.
A few weeks ago while driving, I released the gas and truck seem to slow faster than normal. Seemed kind of unusual but also began to noticed a drag on my mpg, about 2-4 mpg difference, depending on highway or in town. Now 3 weeks later, I feel grinding under breaking. Now it's beginning to make sense. I figure probably a stuck caliper. While driving with head out the window , freezing in IL, by the way, seems to be the drivers front. Checked rotors, outsides only as there are the guards preventing me from checking the back side. No visual or touch grooves ground into the rotors from the pads being worn out. Best bet is its the back side of the caliper that is locked.
Question 1, does this make sense, only one side of the caliper locking up? I had a caliper lock on my old GTP but the whole thing locked up.
Question 2, do I just suck it up and replace the breaks my self, gf's dad is a manager at O'rylies so I can get anything I want at cost, or do I go back to the dealer and bitch about mechanical problems being constant with my new now only weeks out of warranty truck? I read some horror stories about clogged lines and numerous other issues causing calipers to lock. I don't feel like replacing my whole break system, lines, calipers and all just to make sure the problem is fixed. At 3 years this seems ludicrous.
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The wife and I ventured out last Friday evening to run a few errands. When we returned to the house and pulled into the garage, we both smelled burning brake pad. I felt the rear wheels, the drivers side was too hot to touch.
Dragging brake caliper. I got online and reserved a drivers side caliper and a set of pads at NAPA. Saturday morning I removed the caliper. Much to my surprise, one of the caliper pistons was broken into multiple pieces.
I took the offending caliper to NAPA and picked up the new caliper and a set of pads.
Side note - NAPA seems to think the 2007 trucks have calipers that mount in front of the axle, not behind the axle. They will try to sell you a passenger side caliper and tell you it is a driver side caliper. It will bolt up fine, but the bleeder valve will be at the bottom of the caliper instead of the top. You'll never get the air out of the caliper.
Got back home, bolted up the new caliper and pads, then bled the system. All worked well.
I decided to throw new pads on the passenger side brakes as well, since I had 2 remaining. I took off the passenger side caliper, much to my surprise I found a cracked and broken piston on that side also! Another run to NAPA to pick up another caliper. Installed, bled the system again, all working well.
Now, I have never seen a cracked and broken caliper piston like this, let alone one on each side of the rear axle. What might have caused this? About a year ago I had a shop install new backing plates. The pads and calipers are about 3 years old, same shop installed those.
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I have a 2004 xlt xtracab F150 and for the last week my drivers side brake has been dragging and the first time it happened it got REAL HOT and after I let it cool down it did release and then 2 days later it did it again but with a one mile slow drive to work did not get that hot. I am assuming that I will have to replace the caliper but is there anything else I may have to change?
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I've looked at several threads but no one describes my exact problem. The issue started suddenly. When I am in 4WD and turn (does not have to be sharp) there is a dragging and rubbing noise. It drags hard enough that it will stop the truck.
Sounds like the brakes engaging and rubbing. I can not see any foreign material wrapped up anywhere. The 4WD appears to be engaging properly and the IWE appear to be working. I can "stomp on it" in a straight line and throw mud with no crazy noises and get a rooster tail from the front end.
I've got about 15000 on new brakes and rotors. Ceramic pads and lifetime rotors all the way around.
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After a routine brake pad replacement the brake pedal hits the floor when applied with normal force. The pedal feels like a badly leaking master cylinder, but prior to the pad replacement the brake pedal was firm as a rock with no drop at all. If I pump the brakes the pedal will come up to normal height, but if I then maintain light pressure the pedal will again sink to the floor.
1. Truck was braking fine, however pad 3/4 worn
2. Replaced front calipers, rotors and pads
3. Replaced front brake feed hoses
4. Replaced rear pads
5. Started engine
6. Started bleeding from furthest point from MC a) passenger rear, b) Driver Rear, c) passenger front, d)driver front. Did it two times...
Still, brake travels all the way to the fire wall and never develops tension. Moreover, sometimes, when person pumping brake puts pressure and i open bleed, no fluid comes out. Could it be a failed master cylinder??? I tend to think it's not because 24hrs ago, the pedal felt fine and the truck was braking ok.... So much for preventive maintenance.
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How to diagnose what I think is a failing alternator?
Here are the symptoms:
- Hard starting in cold weather
- Battery not at full voltage when truck is parked (usually around 11.5-12 volts. I have been putting a charger on it some nights)
- Lights seem to dim when I've got accessories running, like heater fan, heated seats etc. Lights get brighter with engine RPM, like when pulling away from an intersection.
What's my next step to diagnose this? I did a search, and didn't see anything. My battery is probably still under warranty, so if that's the issue, it should be a free fix. How hard is it to install an alternator in a 2005 with 5.4L engine?
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Are there any 2008 Elantra drivers out there who have a problem with hesitation and dragging at the 35-40 mph range (3rd into 4th gears)? I'm told by the dealer that although there is a hesitation which he noticed as well after driving it, there is nothing that can be done until Hyundai issues a "fix." Learned my lesson here and will probably not purchase another Hyundai. My 2003 Elantra was a better ride.
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I replaced my front axle pads but the driver's side brakes seem to be dragging on the rotor making a very loud squealing noise when im driving. When I parked it in my driveway it was really hot and smoking. It doesn't happen to the passenger side. I pushed back the Pistons easily to get the brake pads in there so that wasn't a problem. But I must admit I changed them when my brakes were grinding.
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The brakes seam to be dragging on my F550.It won't roll when out of gear. Noticed a good deal of brake dust on all 4 corners after just a couple hundred miles. Also,when it does roll I can some times hear it creak slightly. At not time does it lose any braking action nor does the brake pedal get hard or soft.I know it will need pads and rotors soon since the rotors are pretty grooved. (Just bought the truck last month....it's on my LOOOOONG to do list.....).
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On a recent road trip, my 2009 Prius began making a loud dragging sound. Pulled into a car dealer at the freeway exit (Mazda) and found the black plastic shield on the front bumper had cracked down the middle and was dragging. I had them remove it to finish my drive home; my question now is, what should be considered a fair price for having this replaced? Last fall, I had a minor accident and had to have body work done on the hood and front fender; should I have the body shop that I used check it out, or stick with the dealer? I'm wondering if the shield might have cracked in the accident and was overlooked. As a single 50-something female, I just want to know what a repair like this might run, so I don't get taken for a ride.
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My 2007 Toyota Prius occasionally sounds like there is metal dragging somewhere in the front of the car. It usually only happens at low speeds after I have been driving on a highway. If I get out of the car to check. I can't see anything dragging under the car. The sound usually goes away if I continue to drive or (if I've reached my destination) if I let drive the car again later. What this noise might be? The car has 172,000 miles on it, and it has had the wheel bearings changed multiple times in the past few years...I don't know if that has anything to do with the noise.
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I heard a grinding noise coming from the right front tire last night. Came home, removed the wheel / tire and noticed the caliper was stuck pushing the pads against the rotor. I pushed the caliper pistons back in so they're not frozen, just sticking.
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Went to pick up a serpentine belt, they are diff for warm weather package. How do you tell if your 2008 F350 has the "Warm Weather Package".....
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Started to change front pads and rotors on my GX470, but couldn't get the caliper bolts loose. Is it safe to use a torch to heat up the area around the bolts so I can loosen the bolts? Any other way to break these bolts free?
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I need to do a brake job on the front of my 04 Elantra, how to reset the caliper piston. I've tried the traditional c-clamp method but can't get the clamp to grip well on the non-pad side because of the caliper shape.
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I have a 2007 Prius gen II with 50,000 miles on it. I took it for MOT ministry of transport annual test and it failed on rear brakes. The near side puled 82kg the off side puled 242kg I puled the pads and copper slipped the pads and sliders the piston pushed bake with ease reassembled them and re tested them witch increased the near side by 5kg. How did you rectify it.
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I have an 05 with a seized front caliper. What other vehicle has the same one? Does 4 runner or any other Toyotas have the same caliper?
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My 2004 Toyota Highlander with 84K miles has been diagnosed with a seized front driver side brake caliper with worn brake pad (1/32). I had recall work done a few days ago at the dealership and this was discovered afterward during the "complimentary" multi-point check-up. - You know, the long laundry list of recommended work they try to sell you on. Of course the brake work is actually necessary.
Since the vehicle was just inspected 2 months ago at our local shop, my husband suggested I take it back there to verify the diagnosis and see what that mechanic would recommend. That mechanic confirmed and showed me the seized caliper/worn pad, which, by the way, was functioning well in mid January at inspection, and measured 7/32. This mechanic recommends replacing both calipers, pads, turning rotors. There was no indication of a problem with the RF caliper, but he says it's just a good idea to replace it so we would avoid having another problem in the future.
I want to ask everyone's opinion regarding replacement of just the bad caliper vs. both. Are we getting ripped off as far as the estimate and is the flush necessary? Also, is this issue typical in the first place, and what causes a brake caliper to seize? We've had several other vehicles driven many more miles than my Highlander and never experienced a seized caliper.
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This weekend was the first cold weekend we have had and I did not get to take the F out, this morning on the ride in to work my low tire presser light came on. I will check the pressers this afternoon when I leave work but but could it be just due to the weather? also how do you reset the light?
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