Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: XLT Suddenly Died And Wouldn't Crank Over
Sep 5, 2016
I just got a 2004 F-150 XLT. 200k miles AT. The problem is that it won't start. The previous owner was driving it when it suddenly died and wouldn't crank over. He was told by an auto shop it neded a new engine.
I don't think it needs a new engine because it stopped while driving. I may be wrong. I put a new battery in it. When I turn the key to start it, it just makes one loud click and doesn't do anything else. The oil and coolant look fine. What may be wrong with it or how to see if the engine is bad?
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Last week, my 2005 FX4 Screw died suddenly, and would immediately lose all power to the gauges as soon as the jump leads were disconnected, not to mention the engine would eventually die shortly after that. After a bit of logical thinking, a buddy and I determined that it was likely the alternator, so we pulled it and replaced it. We also had the alternator tested, and it failed every single test, so it was pretty clearly the culprit. The good news is that the truck starts and runs/stays running again. The bad news is that my audio and 4x4 systems are both offline.
As far as audio goes, I'm guessing it's an easy fix because it's probably a fuse somewhere that got toasted. But the 4x4 is a little more of a problem. I tested the vacuum lines by pulling them from the hubs, and neither had any suction. Okay, the solenoid isn't getting power, probably another fried fuse, right? Well, here's where I'm getting confused.
My understanding of this 4wd system is that it works like this: When in 2wd, the solenoid engages the vacuum and pulls the part of the hub that locks in the wheels (not sure what specifically to call it) out, therefore disengaging the front 2 wheels. When 4wd is turned on, the vacuum disengages and that part of the hub pops into place, locking out the front wheels into 4wd.
So, by that rationale, if the 4wd solenoid isn't working due to an electrical issue, then my truck should automatically just be locking itself into 4wd, right? Because without the vacuum to disengage that part of the hub, it should just pop into place and keep the truck locked into 4wd. So if I'm correct in my understanding, then I have another problem because my truck is still operating very much in 2wd.
I did the classic 4wd tests: tight circle to feel the front end gripping/pulling, gun it from a dead stop to see if all 4 tires engaged. But I turned in a much tighter circle than 4wd would ever allow, didn't feel the front end grip/pull at all, and the "peel out" test only showed my 2 rear tires as launching me forward. I also tried shifting into 4-Low, but the truck never shifted into low gear either. -I know that's probably just electrical, but I'm just trying to be thorough in my testing/explanation.
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I drove the truck a night before and all was well. 24 hours later no sign of power, completely dead. I jumped the battery last night and the truck started. I drove it around and came home started right up, this morning started without an issue.
What happened here, all doors were closed and dome was off. It is an Exide battery, I don't know how old the battery is, PO changed it.
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I have a 2004 ford F150 trition 4x4, I bought it in march, happen to notice that my head lights wouldn't shut off this afternoon after when I got home from town, after several phone calls n different ideas I resorted to removing a battery cable to keep my battery from dying, then tonight I decided to go to my dads, when I put the negative cable back in the battery I noticed it sparked. she drove fine there, got done visiting n on my way home my horn goes off n won't shut off till I stopped n turned the truck off, I drove all the way home with it blowing like crazy, I took the fuse out but my truck will not start with out the fuse!! I have to work tomorrow night n I have no clue what's going on!!
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For the last little while I have been having an issue with the 4wd in my 2006 F-150 with about 93k on the clock. Sometimes it would engage when I switched to 4H/4L and other times it wouldn't. A friend of mine works at a Ford dealership and said it could be the vacuum solenoid on the firewall going bad. So I bought a new one and as I removed the old one, noticed debris in one of the inlets. So I cleaned that out and neither old or new solved the problem. Then I went through ALL of the vacuum lines and found some debris in parts of them....
Cleaned them all out and still nothing. Then I got to thinking it may be the ESOF motor on the transfer case. Checked to make sure there was power to the plug, which there was. Removed the motor and turned switch, and the motor seemed to be working. Reattached the motor and the 4wd would engage/disengage without problem. Pretty much everywhere I went I would check it and it worked fine . Then all of a sudden it didn't . So I took the motor off, turned selector and it worked fine. No issues yesterday at all.
So, I am not sure if it is the motor going bad or not. Could there be a contact problem? I talked to a mechanic this morning and he told me to drive around with it in 4H for a while because more times than not it doesn't get used enough. I'm just not sure what could be going on...am I missing something?
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Yesterday I drove my mom's 02 explorer to the gas station to fill it for her. After filling, I started it. It ran for several seconds and then died. It wouldn't start right away, so I let sit for a half hour, and then it started and I drove it 10 miles home. What is going on?
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Went out to start my 2007 at 5:10am and it was as dead as a doornail. (Well, almost...I pushed the button for the cabin light and it barely lit). I panicked. Pulled out the manual and figured out that the 12v was dead. Woke up DH (who was not happy) and then we followed the instructions for the jump - which worked. (Hooray!) Didn't quite understand the "hold the pedal lightly for 2000 rpm before starting the car when there was no engine running " part...but I did sit there with my foot on the pedal pressing it down a bit. (Yes, I follow directions)
The car has about 60k miles. I drive 35 miles each way to work Monday through Friday. Weekends I only drive it around town a few miles. It may sit one of those days. I do keep the headlights on all of the time, in fact I have never turned them off. I thought that once I powered it off, everything was off? (Except that little security thing). The car is the basic model.
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Was driving the other day and it just died and wouldn't start back up. It has fire and is getting gas. It's a 4.0 Sohc...
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What happened is I went to get in the truck I opened the door and the gauges and blower motor came on by itself like the ignition is in the on position. I put the key in the ignition and the truck didn't do anything. No crank or anything and I did notice the anti theft light blinking really fast. I unplugged the battery and plugged it back up then the truck started but I went to shut it off and pulled the key out the ignition and truck stayed running. But also the blower in the truck and the gauges are still staying on. People keep saying it's my key but why would the stuff cut on by itself inside the truck when I just opened the door?
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I am working on a 96 Mazda b2300 auto 2wd for a friend. His son was driving it when a loud noise, it died and wouldn't start back up. He had it towed to my house, I started to tear into to it and found it slipped the timing belt. So a rebuilt head, gaskets, timing belt, fuel injectors, water pump, thermostat, plugs, and fluids; tried to start it and nothing. Started troubleshooting and found the primary coil pack was out of spec, replaced and still nothing.
Changed out the CKPS still nothing? I have spark, I have fuel, I'm going to check compression tomorrow but the way the cylinders and pistons looked I don't think that is the issue but I going to check anyway, rechecked the timing marks they all lined up. Checked the fuel inertia switch not tripped. Could the PCM, or ICM cause a no start, and still be able to get spark and fuel?
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-15 degrees at 7:30 this morning and my F-150 4.6L started just fine. At 9:30 and -6 engine would turn over well but wouldn't start. When I shut the key off, I would hear a "vibration" from the area of the instrument panel and the speedometer needle would shake for about 15 seconds then quit. At 1:30 the truck started fine but the trip odometer had rest to 0.0. What happened and where to start looking?
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I have a ford ranger 1996 4 cylinder. The truck was driving fine then all of the sudden it shut off and wouldn't start... I checked spark and that is fine also changed fuel pump and made no difference. We also sprayed lighter fluid and that did nothing. It sounds like it wants to start but wont.
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My 2000 F250 SD 5.4 AWD's A/C wouldn't blow cold suddenly the other day. I confirmed the A/C relay (engine compartment, 3rd down from firewall)was "clicking" but compressor clutch was obviously not engaging with dash switch on Max A/C and engine running. When I take of the 2 wire connector to compressor to see if it is getting power, the truck won't start..if I disconnect the A/C compressor plug while running, the engine similarly quits. I have never had another vehicle do this on me before..I could unplug the compressor on my Jeep GC, for instance, measure 12+ volts with A/C ON w/car running and no problem with Jeep engine turning off.
I have searched for A/C wiring schematic w/o success. I checked every fuse in cab/engine for continuity since I don't know which ones might deal with A/C..jumped hi/lo pressure switch connectors with engine running/A/C ON w/o compressor clutch engaging. Clutch turns easily, have banged it a few times, and air gap looks good. More bizarrerly, I hooked the compressor to a 12V/ground via its 2 male prongs and didn't get the clutch to engage.
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On my way to work this morning my truck died it inst getting fuel. I've pushed the fuel reset behind the kick panel there isnt a fuse or relay and i called a dealership about that I don't know I wouldn't think the fuel pump would go out all at once Its a 04 fx4 super cab 5.4....
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I bought a 2005 camry at an estate sale last week. The serpentine belt was broken and guy running sale said the car set for 4 months and they jumped it off to start and it started and then died and wouldn't start. So I had it towed to my house. changed the water pump, idler tensioner, and new belt and now the car wont start. turns over good. so i changed plugs and still not starting. I will pull one plug in the morning and see if I'm getting spark. If not what would be next step.
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On my way to work this morning check engine light came on, diagnosis came up with 2 codes p2181 cooling system and p1516 intake changeover. went to leave work car started then died after about 5 seconds then wouldn't start. as of right now I am thinking that it might be the coolant temp sensor? That's not letting it start? the past week it has been getting bad gas mileage and a low idle.
Mods done giac chip now set at stock setting
APR exhaust and intake
107,xxx miles
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Heading for a long weekend trip, went to pass a car on the highway and rpms went up and the car wouldn't go above 70, the car just stuttered. I pulled over and shut it off, and then it was fine. It was good the rest of the trip. On the way to the store today, it did the same thing around 35 mph today, restarted and it was fine again. t only has 9K on it.
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I am working on a99 2500 4x4. 7.4 Replaced 230,000 engine with 90,000 engine.I had to fix a bad oil leak from the oil pressure sensor. Replaced it and delivered it.
Ran great Gal was driving at 50mph. Engine died and wouldn't start. She fried starter trying. Replaced starter, has no codes. 59-60 lbs fuel pressure with key on then holds 50 lbs. 60 lbs while cranking. Has spark at plug. NO security light staying lit or flashing. flashes then goes out. Smell of unburnt fuel is strong. Also no oil pressure at gauge when cranking and her key fob doesn't work.
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I was driving down the freeway, headed up a hill and my truck started slowing down, rapidly, it eventually died. I put it in neutral and started it up, went about 1' and it died again. It did this several times. I was almost to the top of a hill and was hoping I could coast down, but didn't make it. It ended up dying completely.
I would turn the key to start it, and it would keep trying to turn over (even when i let go of the key. it was weird). Then after a few times of that, the battery just died.
I also noticed a smell. Like something burning. I noticed it off and on for the last week and asked a friend to check it out but he was like "oh its nothing".
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2004 screw 5.4 xlt
I was driving home and heard a loud rat tat tat tat . I thought I might have run over something. I slowed down and the noise quit, pulled over, checked things out, nothing apparent. I was only a couple miles from home so Started driving again and the ABS light came on, then went off. Another indicator came on and went off... then the entire instrument cluster died except for the airbag light, no tach, speedo. Truck still drove fine. I stopped in the driveway shut her off and then tried to restart...no go. Kind of like a dead battery, tried to turn over.
Had a few things to take care of b4 getting back to the truck. Went out and I hear a continuous click, click, click back by the fuel cap (fuel pump)? ......but the truck is OFF no key in ignition. I disconnected the battery and the noise quit. Battery is showing 12 volts. I stuck the charger on. These symptoms sound like anything even possible???????
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Factory fog lights worked fine, had body off for the head studs recently, they worked fine after. One day they just don't work. Fog light indicator light still comes on. Fuse is good. High beam indicator still works. Where to troubleshoot next?
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