Ive got an 04 f150 with the 5.4 in it. It's got a problem that's got me scraching my head. When you drive the truck it will drive fine, but revs like there isn't anything there when it tries to go into overdrive. But if you turn off overdrive, it won't rev much more than 2500 rpm.. Obviously its a sensor issue, but which one?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford F150 4x4 with 170,000 miles. its running a little rough so I thought I would clean the throttle body. do you clean it on the truck or remove it?
View 6 Repliesread a few posts over the years relating to dirty throttle body, but never understood them. At 60000 miles, should this be attempted by the average guy or just leave it alone if it aint broke?
Any pics addressing where is it, what makes it dirty, how to open it, what to clean it with and how often as preventive maintenance?
I took it to a mechanic, he just told me to sprayed some carb cleaner on the throttle body and butterfly valve, and to wipe it with a rag. He did not hook a computer to it, to diagnose. and he said if the light comes on again to buy a new throttle body... I am thinking of getting throttle body sprayer taking off the throttle body replace the gasket, and hope this fixes my problem. I forgot to change my air filter btw.
View 1 RepliesWhile driving home my yellow wrench light came on and I had no power at the pedal, even though the engine was idling smoothly. This happened with no warning and went away when I turned the truck off and restarted it. About 4 miles later it did it again. I immediately went to a nearby dealership only to find out my electronic throttle body needs replaced. Needless to say at this time of year 500+ dollars is not readily available, although I need my vehicle for work.
I do not know a thing about ETB's but did a little research online and found many aftermarket ones at a much better price than Ford's(surprise). My question I guess is what are my alternatives to factory replacement? Can I remove and clean this component or replace it with something of better quality? I'm not into high performance with my truck but if I could get a little better throttle response or gas mileage I'm all ears. My truck is a 2004 Supercrew 4x4 XLT w/ 5.4 Triton. Around 74,000 miles and well taken care of. Miles are nearly all highway.
I am a dedicated Ford truck owner. Both vehicles I have had are both F150's. My first one was a 5.4L v8 03 and my current is a 5.4L v8 06 4x4, seen below.
When I bought the truck it was straight piped. I went ahead and did a GOTTS mod on it. The truck also has the factory tow package. I replaced the spark plugs and engine oil (Amsoil High Mileage). I did a couple basic things like putting in the light bar and replacing the headlight housings. Other than that it it pretty much the same as when I bought it. I cleaned the throttle body and sensors, using the proper cleaners. I ran two cans of SeaFoam through as well.
With my last truck, I 'flushed' the transmission (not a actual flush, but I changed the tranny oil about 7 times in a short period of time). A buddy suggested I do it, as it was a DOT truck and maybe wasn't treated the best. It was a automatic, just like my 06. Would that do any actual good?
I have noticed that truck has a spongy/delayed throttle response. The engine idles normally and there are no codes being thrown. I had a similar issue with my 03 but it had a cable to the pedal and I just had to tighten that up and it was better. Perhaps because of the straight pipe and GOTTS and no tune?
I have a 2007 f150 lariat with 88000 miles on it that I just bought and during slow throttle from 40-50. I am getting a sporadic shudder right when it goes into overdrive is worse when going up a light grade it goes away when i get to about 60 and whenever i give it full throttle it acts really sluggish like the tranny is slipping but it shifts very smooth.
View 8 RepliesI have an F-150 Heritage 4.2L V6 Manual 4X4 and over the last few weeks have notice a couple of odd things. First I noted an odd screeching sound, similar to a rock caught in the break drum, but it seemed to be coming from under the cab/bed, not a tire. It only seemed to show up under relatively heavy throttle, which I thought was odd. I went through a car wash with a good under carriage spray, and the sound went away.
A few days later it snowed and the sound returned. I don't know that it's actually related...but that's how the weather went... Now, when I let off the throttle and the engine holds the truck back there is a "thump", and when I reapply the throttle, it thumps again. If I press the clutch in first, then release the throttle there is no thump; so I assume this is something with the drive shaft.
I climbed underneath and found that I do have some play in the shaft, I can twist it a tiny bit so I know that I have play in the shaft which (and I am NO mechanic) I assume is not normal. I can see the shaft turning all the way to where it goes into the back of the transmission so I assume the play is coming from the rear yoke?
I thought I could replace the yoke relatively cheaply but I keep stumbling across posts indicating that with this particular set up, I actually have to replace the whole drive shaft. What I could be looking at, and what my options are?
I've got an 04' F150 and the ONLY problem I have with it is a ridiculously sluggish throttle. I bought the Superchips Tuner in hopes of eliminating this, but the delay in the throttle is still there (power is much better however). When I talk delay, I am talking hitting the gas and probably a realistic .5-1 sec delay. It is quite annoying to say the least.
My question...is there something that I can do myself to improve the throttle response? I drove an older 150..probably an 02 or 03 and it felt sooooo much more powerful just do to the throttle. I am even willing to ditch the Superchips if the Ford re-tune would do a better job.
2005 F150, 5.4 motor. Truck would loose power and no throttle response. Shutting off and restarting, ran fine. No codes showing. Cleaned throttle body and plate, reassembled. Key left on for 20 minutes. Tried to start vehicle. Making a clicking sound, dash lights flashing on and off when hear clicking sound when trying to start vehicle. when key turned to on position, dash lights go off except check engine light. When checked, no codes shown.
View 3 Replies2005 Ford F-150 FX4 5.4 V8
So my battery died the other day when I was working on the radio and I ended up having to jump start the vehicle. After the jump start the Wrench light came on the truck or the ETC light. (After doing research I have discovered you are not supposed to jump start a vehicle with ETC)
I have taken the car to the auto parts store and it does not seem the code readers they have can read codes for the ETC light.
I have also disconnected the battery cable to try and reset the light, but it still always comes on about 10 seconds after starting the car.
I have had no issues with the vehicle despite the light. No rough idle, no starting issues, or acceleration issues at any speed. What I can do to resolve this light or what part I fried when I jump started the car?
I recently bought a 2006 that idles rough, not real bad, but bad enough for me (and my 9 year old kid!) to notice. I asked the dealer where I bought it and they put it on the computer and said everything checked out. He said "it's a characteristic of this motor." I've never heard of such a thing. The truck has 27,000 miles on it and the dealer flushed the fuel system. He said the throttle plate had a lot of carbon on it, but it still idles rough... 4.6 idle rough?
View 13 RepliesThrottle body failures on the 5.4L 3v are more common than you think, luckily it will pop a code for the throttle body more often than not diagnosing. Symptoms include start and dies, no start, a really rough idle, surging idle up and down more so in park, poor brake assist due to rpm fluctuation and wrench light on. If you find yourself in this situation I show you how to change the throttle body and reset the pcm to learn the new idle trims.
Ford F150 F250 5.4L 3v Electronic Throttle Body Replacement P2135 - YouTube ....
Ok,..I've got a late model '04 5.4 150, (some parts matched an '05). About 4 mos ago I noticed a loss of upper end power, no cel, but the temp gauge only went up halfway and stayed there. eventually got a code saying temp sending unit (under manifold) was bad. I replaced the sending unit, gauge started working, no cel, but still some power loss.
After a while, cel again says rt bank faulty knock sensor, pull manifold, replace both, plus changed all 4 oxygen sensors. Last few months no cel, but still some loss of power, local trusted mechanic, thinks it could be a clogged cat / cats,..I was pretty sure it wasn't, sure enough, no back pressure. I'm at a loss, I replaced the plugs at 95,000 has 125,000 now, idles and starts great.
It feels like an old distributor car with a sticky shaft that doesn't want to advance, once in a while it feels almost normal, now a lot of people might not even feel it, it will still go 90, but won't lay rubber for 30ft like it used to, might chirp but definitely something not right,..is there any way to confirm throttle body opening all the way? I don't think it would be wise to run it with air box off and by pass mass air sensor right?
I have a 2004 F150 XLT SCAB 5.4L 3v Fuel that I drive Daily, it has 280,000 miles on it. While driving to work (70mph) my throttle became unresponsive and it felt like the transmission was downshifting. Made my way to the edge of the highway and placed truck into Neutral, then the engine quit. Tried restarting at which point would not fire. After letting the truck sit (while waiting for a tow) I decided to try to start it. The Truck did start and ran for only about 2 minutes and then quit. The Tow truck finally arrived and I tried to start again with the same problem occurring, stated and ran for about 2 minutes (no throttle response) and died.
Got the truck home and decided to remove the Fuel line from the filter to see if there was fuel flowing, which there was none and no pressure. Replaced the FPDM with a new one, old unit was corroded but not cracked (replaced it once before). Tried to start and would only crank with out any fuel flowing (still had it removed from the filter). Thinking it may be the Fuel Pump but have to drain the tank being that I just filled it this morning before it died. The problem is, how to drain the tank before lowering it if the Fuel Pump is not running??? What the Problem is or how to test Fuel Pump or drain the Tank?
I am usually on 6.0 site and don't know much about a 5.4 gasser, hope to get some tech info. My buddy was driving to my house yesterday and his 06 F-150 with a 5.4 liter just shut off while driving. He got it restarted on first try, all engine vitals normal. I sent him to Advance Auto Parts and they pulled codes; P-2112 and P-2104 and throttle actuator stuck closed. Engine is running fine and he has driven it about 100 miles since yesterday with no problems. 06 F-150 5.4 liter 58,000 miles.
View 3 Replies.Here is a run down of my truck 05 5.4L Screw has 130K on it. Sometime when going up a slight incline the truck at partial throttle will shake very very little. if I put my foot into it the shake goes away and the truck response just fine. It only does this when going uphill on the freeway and on the streets here in Dallas that have slight inclines.
The truck is not throwing any codes nor does it stall at lights. Starts right up in the morning and runs good. Nothing done to the truck except I have an Edge programmer and Magnaflow exhaust. I have pulled the programmer off and returned the truck to stock and it still does the same thing.
I bought the truck used in 07 had 40K miles on it. I'm thinking spark plugs or maybe a coil is going bad. But this doesn't happen all the time just here and there.
Where is the Throttle Actuator Control Module Processor on a 2008 5.4L? Is it built into the throttle body, or integrated into the PCM?
View 4 RepliesI just bought a 2005 fx4 and there is a whining or whirring sound coming from the rear of the truck when I hit around 70km/h. the second i let go of the accelerator it stops.
Today when I got home after a 15 minute highway drive, i got under the truck and felt the differential area. it was warm but not hot. and there was a wet spot on it. i wiped off a drop of oil. there was also a wet spot on the bottom, seemed to be just water? I'm not sure.
I just locked out the cam phasers on a 2005 f150 with a 5.4. It now idles pretty rough. If I blip the throttle the revs will rise and then drop again, and it barely catches in time to prevent a stall. If I continue to tease it this way I can usually get it to stall. I'm getting no CELs or anything, but I intermittently will get a P035x code (it seemed to rove. I've gotten cylinder 1, 4, 6, but not consistently.). I have chased those around by swapping coils, checking/cleaning the connectors, etc.
I am kind of thinking that these codes are a symptom of my idle issues, and not the actual problem. What could I have done wrong? Could it be a vac issue? I had basically the entire ECU harness and all the vac lines disconnected to do the job, but as far as I can tell everything has been reconnected to the correct locations. I did have an SCT tune done to remove the phasers in the ECU. I installed it and still have the issue, so for now I am on the stock tune just to eliminate any variables.
Could my tune be the issue? Is this how you would expect the engine to behave with locked out phasers and no corresponding ECU tune?
I have a 2005 F150 5.4 FX4 and I had these two codes thrown over the past week/few days...P0325 and P1000 (pictures below of descriptions...I have an edge programmer and have been running it on the highest setting for a while now but always run premium fuel. I got these codes and reset them and they came right back. I then reset the cpu to the factory programming and they still keep coming back. I still have premium in it and it seems like when you hammer it that it falls flat on its face! It runs good and pretty smooth but seems like it has no power when throttle is pushed hard. It seems like it has a small vibration at about 3,000 RPM but only for a few seconds and then smooths right back out again. The truck has 88,000 miles and I just put new Motorcraft plugs in it about 6,000 miles ago. Not sure what I should do or what is the next step.
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