Yesterday I had to jump start my truck twice, after driving 200 miles then this morning, it still wouldn't start. Likely time for new battery being on original battery since new. Before I go over to local Sears, checking out the Diehards. Any particular brands?
View 5 RepliesI just replaced my battery and alternator this evening on my 2004 F-150 5.4L. After driving it around a bit, the idle is dropping to about 100 RPM almost to a point of stalling when coming to stop. It slowly creeps back up to a normal idle shortly after.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 prius that had a HV batyery problem. HV battery was rebuilt. After that car started ran but after shut down it will not start. It will only show red triangle, abs, vcs, yellow tire. Basically all yellow lights on dash board except check engine. Also on the MFD it shows the red car with exclamation symbol. I scanned it but shows no DTC codes.
View 16 RepliesI just replaced my 12V battery and now the car won't start. It will take a jump and show "ready" on the dash but as soon as the car is turned off, it won't start again - no lights, nothing. I checked some fuses and they looked fine.
View 11 RepliesI need a new engine for my 2004 SOHC 5.4 3v F150. Without sounding like a dumb question, what engines can I use? All I've heard about this engine is that it was a horrible one. I can vouch for that personally. I will be looking for a crate engine soon.
View 2 RepliesI'm looking for a replacement motor for a 5.4 08 vin v. Do the 9-10 motor with the same vin code v. I know intake is different but the heads are the same.
View 6 RepliesI have a new style 2004 F150 XLT supercrew with a 4.6. Well, I just hit 300,00 miles earlier this week. The truck has performed pretty much flawlessly over the years (and still does). I've replaced front hubs, IWE's, brakes, fluids, etc, but have NEVER opened up the engine. Is it time to replace the timing chain?
First thought is ,yes, like 50,000 miles ago, but... It has some dents and dings and the rust is getting to it. There is 300,000 on the transmission also... Virtually no residual value- If it strands me on the road, it's time for a new truck.
On the other hand, it only burns a little over a quart at 3000 mile change intervals, the transmission seems strong. I just shampooed the cloth interior and detailed it. The thing looks great from the vantage point of the steering wheel.
No engine issues at all- no rattling, etc.
Looking for any pictures or directions on replacing the intake manifold on the 2004 F150, 5.4. Got all the parts with the pulgs, and ignition coils.
View 6 RepliesI've just begun to replace my front struts (Monroe quick strut pre-assembled). The thing is, the top bearing plate bolts and the lower mounting point are out of alignment by 90 degrees. The included directions say they can be rotated but gives no procedure and they do not just "turn" easily obviously. How to rotate them to fit??
View 3 RepliesI tried to turn on my car this morning, but the "Ready" sign didn't go on. The whole display is black. "Check Engine" sign blinked briefly. Battery display shows the battery is "green". Everything else works - cd/radio/bluetooth, etc. As I tried to start it, the screen showed that the engine briefly charged the Prius battery, then it was all quite. I tried to wait and restart a few times, but still the display was all black and no "ready" sign. I WAS able to still move the car, but I didn't chance to drive it out of the garage. I just had it serviced (oil/fluid change). Small battery was replaced in July.
View 19 RepliesThe Phaeton is a 2003 6.0 W12 model. The car used to be a demo car and has currently around 80.000 km. It is not equipped with a keyless entry system. I recently put an Xcarlink device to connect my iPod. All the rest is a standard equipment (basically all available at that moment).
The problem with the car started when I could not open from the remote key. I tried to open the driver door, but the never used lock jammed. The only option was opening the trunk using the key. I had to lift the lid using some force against the dumpers, but it worked.
As the both batteries on the car were original 2003 (so went through the showroom period as well) I new that they cause the problem.
I bought two new batteries and replaced them. I proceeded according to the service manual so disconnected the right battery -, right +, left -, left +. I am pretty convinced that I did not blow the battery isolator. The left battery applied is 95Ah in place of 92 before. It has the max current of 800 A in place of 850 A. The right battery is exactly the same specification as before. After testing the old batteries the left one showed current of 2.8V so it was definitely broken. The right one seemed to be OK (12.58V)
After replacing the batteries I could open the car and all the entertainment systems and electronics inside would work except for:
1) The suspension lifting and tire pressure warning lights are on.
2) I cannot start the engine - it does not crank at all even using the emergency mode - two times start and back to accessories mode
3) The trunk lid does not close automatically.
I am getting the car towed to the local VW dealer tomorrow, but I am afraid they will see the Phaeton for the first time in their lives (small Dutch dealer nearby Utrecht), so I am a bit afraid of the car.
Looking for a link for a novice to see how to replace the front struts on my 07? I'm thinking I'm capable of getting them out, but will take them to a shop to compress the spring and do the switch.
View 3 RepliesHow to access the plugin for the 3rd brake light, cant seem to find it from the top, do I need to remove the headliner?
View 2 RepliesWhile driving home my yellow wrench light came on and I had no power at the pedal, even though the engine was idling smoothly. This happened with no warning and went away when I turned the truck off and restarted it. About 4 miles later it did it again. I immediately went to a nearby dealership only to find out my electronic throttle body needs replaced. Needless to say at this time of year 500+ dollars is not readily available, although I need my vehicle for work.
I do not know a thing about ETB's but did a little research online and found many aftermarket ones at a much better price than Ford's(surprise). My question I guess is what are my alternatives to factory replacement? Can I remove and clean this component or replace it with something of better quality? I'm not into high performance with my truck but if I could get a little better throttle response or gas mileage I'm all ears. My truck is a 2004 Supercrew 4x4 XLT w/ 5.4 Triton. Around 74,000 miles and well taken care of. Miles are nearly all highway.
I have to replace the upper control arm on my 05 f150 4x4. I've been looking around the site and didn't see anything. Is there directions posted anywhere on the procedure? or if the strut assembly has to be removed? If so do I have to compress the spring first?
View 7 RepliesReplacing their stock muffler with a Magnaflow and kept the rest of the exhast system stock? How does it sound? Any performance gains?
View 14 RepliesSo I finally figured out how to get the puddle lights out of my factory tow mirrors. I want to replace the bulbs with LEDs.
But how do I take this apart? Looks like the clear plastic lens is superglued.
My '07 had the check engine come in the other day, engine misfire. I took it to the dealer hoping it was a coil, due to the 100,000 mi warranty from Ford I was hoping would be covered. Sadly, and of course, all coils tested fine, turns out 2 plugs were bad. They replaced all 8 plugs, plus a plug boot. Not one plug broke (truck had 80k on it) so no extra cost there. So much more, but peace of mind that all the plugs are new one piece plugs is great. He recommended that they should be replaced every 60k to avoid any issues.
View 7 RepliesI just picked up a 05 F150 lariat 5.4 2wd with a 177k on it. What the chances of these plugs coming out with out breaking? Any tips tricks to getting them out? Should I put motorcraft plugs back in it ?
View 6 Replies2008 F-150 2WD
How tight should the wheel bearing retaining nut (sealed bearing hubs) be torqued when replacing the front rotors?
Is there a spec, or just real good and tight since the bearings are sealed units.....
5.4L 3v engine: The PCV is located in the drivers side valve cover. Tried to pull it out with no success and came to the conclusion that maybe it's threaded and a nut locks it in from the underside of the valve cover. Can this thing be replaced without taking off the valve cover?
View 4 Replies