Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: When Downshift From 4th To 3rd It Won't Lock Into Gear
Oct 21, 2012
Ive got a 2006 5.4, Fx4, screw, with 90,000 miles.
Recently it shifts perfect except when it down shifts from 4th gear to 3rd gear. If i mash the pedal it is fine, its only when it just a slight acceleration and it is a easy down shift that causes the problem. What it does is almost like it wont lock into the gear, it bucks lightly but where I can feel it still. Im going 40 to 60 mph when this happens most of the time.
I am not sure if there is a sensor of something else that would be the cause this of is maybe my Transmission is just shooting craps. Also, i have a SCT tuner that i havent hooked up to the truck yet, but do you think if i plugged it in and turned up the shift firmness if it would work.
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Very strange issue today. While driving in stop and go traffic (Auto Sport Mode). I noticed the car was starting in 2nd gear. Next stop I switched over to M and it would still not downshift to 1st even with the paddles or shifter. Once I started moving I could manually downshift just fine. Car seemed to shift normal. Eventually got the VSC / CEL . Here are the codes:
Pending:
PO301 - CYL 1 Misfire
C3101 - no details
C3411 - no details
C3000 - no details
Historical:
P0A11 - DC/DC Converter Enable circuit open
All of the codes cleared and did not reappear while idling. I have not driven the car yet. It also goes back into 1st now while stopped although I haven't tested coming to a stop. Will do that tomorrow
One thing to note that was out of the ordinary today. For some reason I was absolutely freezing (which should be impossible this time of year in SC) so I turned the AC off before this started and the idle dropped very low (400 - 500) which I seem to remember being normal but I almost never run with my AC compressor off unless I'm in race mode and I'm usually not putting along in stop and go traffic if that is the case. Not sure if this has anything to do with it but perhaps the low idle caused a voltage issue which tripped the codes.
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Strange condition? If I kick it down hard into passing gear (or downshift hard into any gear for that matter), it pukes and sputters for a few seconds before clearing up and coming to life. No issues with normal driving, or dead stop hard acceleration, just on the downshift.
I’ve got a Magnaflow cat back on there and am wondering if opening up the exhaust and reducing the back pressure is screwing with the ECU a little? Is this just the nature of the stock Ford tune and it wasn’t as pronounced with the stock exhaust as it is now? Trucks an '06 FX4 5.4L and only has 70,000km on it.
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My wife's 2004 v-6 has finally come to the point of harsh downshifting between 2nd and 1st,that she finally said something to me about it and that is unusual as she has the kids and music going so she hardly ever notices anything like that. I took it to the dealer at the 60k service and demonstrated the problem to them. Well, they did some software update 01210000 and it was supposed to be fixed. Well it isn't. and of course as before it does this intermittently so after they updated and drove it for a mile they considered it fixed. BUT it still does it.... It is a real harsh clunk/downshift just as you almost stop going from 2nd to 1st ? you feel it and hear it ....
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I have a 2005 KR that the 4wd doesn't lock in the front wheels. I haven't seen my exact problem as I have been searching it. When I turn the switch. The dash lights both in high and low 4wd. I hear the transfer motor engage in both hi and low. No ratcheting noises from the wheels. I have replaced the solenoid. And still nothing. Checked fuses And they are OK.
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How do I remove ignition lock cylinder to take and get new set up?
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I can't get my shifter to move out of park. I took it in and they replaced the brake switch and although that seemed to fix it it started up again after a week of use. Now I'm stuck in my driveway. What's causing this?
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I searched a lot but did not find these symptoms on my 1992 Aerostar 3.0 2WD with A4LD transmission.
In overdrive, accelerate to down shift, and the transmission goes out of gear. Engine revs as if it was taken out of gear. Manually shift to Drive, and it works fine.
Overdrive works fine if at speed, and works to shift up, but if going slow enough to drop to lower gear, transmission goes out of gear. Manually in drive, works fine.
I may have other symptoms, but this was on the way home from work, and I just parked it. I checked fluid level, and it was fine, still in the cross-hatch area of the stick, light colored oil, no smell.
I will replace the modulator and replace the filter, and see what that will do. If the overdrive works at overdrive speed, I do not see how that could be an overdrive housing failure that I have seen in many posts. I am aware of keeping track of the pin for the modulator.
I also have read that band adjustment is not a good idea. If they are worn that bad, they should be replaced. I don't think it is a band or clutch problem. I think it is a shift control problem. We will start with the modulator and filter and take it from there.
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My 93' Ranger XLT extra cab 2wd, 4.0 engine and A4LD auto tranny with 126,600 miles has a rough downshift into 2nd gear about 15 or 16 mph. Down shift to 1st is real smooth and upshifting thru the gears is smooth. I just put a new modulator valve on it and upshifts smooth out, they were getting to be hard shifts before changing that valve. I do not know if there is any adjustment that can be made to smooth out the rough downshift when slowing down to a stop for red light. The U-joins are in good shape and new carrier bearing assembly on driveshaft and no extra play in the rear end. A band adjustment maybe or just have to live with it.
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I just bought a 2004 Ford F150 supercrew, and I noticed that the rear passenger power locks don't work.
- I can manually lock and unlock the door. But when I try to use the powerlocks, nothing happens at all.
- I have powerlock controls on both front doors and when I try to lock/unlock all the doors, they all work properly besides that rear passenger door.
- I have checked all fuzes, they are fine.
I realize it could be the actuator? But, I can manually lock/unlock the door with no problem, so could it still be that? How do I troubleshoot to see if it is the actuator or just a wiring problem.
I have all the tools and a meter, just don't know how to troubleshoot the problem! I've done a lot of googling about this and there isn't really anything I've seen on troubleshooting to see if its wiring or actuator.
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Well I have a weird thing going on with the anti lock brakes. Its normally more noticeable when its cold. Coming to a slow stop you can feel the anti lock brakes pulsing slightly or more noticeably if you hit a bump braking at slow speed. The only mods to the truck are 285/70/17 inch tires and a leveling kit. Not sure whats going on with it, but i thought i should check here before getting my wallet lightened by the dealership.
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(2004 f150 S.Crew 4x4) I noticed that my 4 wheel drive is not working. The front hubs won't lock in. The transfer case will go into 4 low but the hubs still won't lock in.
Anyway, I have pulled vacuum on both actuators and one of them won't hold. It's obviously bad, but is that why I don't have 4x4? It seems to me like it is not...
When I pull a vacuum on the actuator that does hold, it disengages the hub from the driveshaft allowing free-wheeling. Correct me if I'm wrong, but when the truck is running in 2wd, vacuum must flow to the actuators preventing the hubs from engaging? The actuator on the bad side is locked 'in' so the driveshaft always turns.
According to my train of thought, since the actuator has failed in the 'locked in' position, I should still have 4x4- What am I missing?
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I bought the 94 B2300 from a guy that said he got it from an auction and didn't know much bout it. Got 30 mins down the road and went to down shift to 4th coming into town and all I got was grinding. Turned it off and it would go into other gears and start in gear with the clutch pushed in. Wen I tried to take off it wouldn't move and just died. Towed it home and installed a new clutch kit in it. Got the clutch bled and went to test drive it and now it is stuck in 1st gear. Can it be easily fixed or am I going to have to replace the transmission...
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1996' Ranger with 183,000 miles. 2.3 cyl., Automatic, XLT
When I am driving and get to the 35 to 60 mph range, my trucks transmission wants to upshift, then immediately downshift to the gear it just left. It goes back and forth like this till I get where I am going, or after about 10 miles it will stop doing it. I checked the transmission fluid, and it is full and still pink.
I took it to Advanced Auto, and it blew a code of ECL Bank 1 I believe. I looked around the 'net and I think it came out to be the front O2 sensor may be bad/going bad.
Last week while it was warm enough I was driving with the rear window open, and noticed the faint smell of Rotten Eggs (this has been the only time though). Today I drove about 50 miles and basically used a quarter of a tank of gas. I am wondering if the catalytic convertor may also be going bad?
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Truck is 04 supercrew with 5.4 and 140,000 miles. I have the typical shutter when cruising 55 - 60 and just ease on the throttle to pass someone. I chalked that up to the torque converter unlocking, if I punch it instead of easing into it, it will not shutter. As of yesterday, it acts like the converter is going to full lock up almost immediately. It will bang when it shifts and rpm's drop to lock up range. A few times it has killed the engine when I shift into D. No codes at all, I removed the programmer and installed the stock tune, no change, unhooked battery, no change, fluid is good, and twice after leaving stop signs it worked perfect until the next stop. I believe that it is an electrical control problem.
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Door panel has been off a few times to see what is up. drove it down the road a few times with the panel OFF to see if I could find the rattle...and it was quiet. when the panel goes back on, rattle comes back.
Now...where should I look at? is it one of the lock/door latch rods vibrating against the panel? that is about the only thing I can figure...
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Just bought an 06' f-150 about a month ago everything was in working order and now lone behold a problem. Not sure if it is significant or not but a problem is a problem none the less. To start the driver side door will no longer unlock either door, replaced the switch hoping/thinking it was just faulty but still no luck, tried to unlock and lock it from the passenger side to make sure that it isn't the actuators and confirmed that it is not the problem so I am left wondering what could it be? Was thinking maybe a relay? or a fuse? but Where the relay would be and it wouldn't make sense to me being a fuse for unlock and another separate fuse for lock.
Next battery died after a week of sitting, checked the battery and alternator to make sure that it wasn't those to blame for the problem and both were fine. I know that there is a after market security system on the truck and that is the suspect thus far to being the Drain I am Having, still yet to hook up a multi meter to see how big of a drain it is though. third is that the CD player does not turn on nor do the lights turn on once you shut the truck off and open the door, I have to manually turn the CD player off to keep it from draining the battery even more. Feel like I fell for a little trap buying from the dealership. trying to work something out with them but until I hear back I am still trying to make amends.
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So i just noticed this issue the other day. If I downshift from 6th to 5th the car hesitates before it starts to accelerate, this only happens for 5th every other gear is fine. This only happens downshifting from 6th to 5th. What is going on?
-apr flash
-just rolled 56k
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I really do love the Phaeon and experienced a hard downshift from 3 to 2 when slowing at certain speeds. The trans is very smooth on the way up but if a let it coast down to zero while applying light brake pressure I get a hard shift from 3 to 2. It is currently at the dealer for service and they have checked everything and state I should just watch for it. They checked all the TSB's, fluids, etc. I wouldn't mind if I knew this was normal for the Phaeton.
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I have a problem with a bmw 1996 7 series transmission.When I start driving the car all gears shift fine, but when I come to a stop it won't downshift to first gear,i have to put the car in park and then in drive again and it run ok until I come to a stop again.
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Is there a way to VAG-COM a 2006 B6 to hold gears in Tiptronic mode? What I mean is, if I floor the car in 4th gear, then the car will automatically still downshift to like 2nd or third. Is there a way to keep the tranny from behaving this way?
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