On my 2004 5.4 I have removed my right cylinder head for replacement. There is a sensor on this head beneath the intake manifold. When removing the sensor I turned the plastic connector about 1/4 turn or less prior to turning the actual sensor. What sensor is this and would I have broken it by this mistake? It did not make a sound, it just turned a little on the base of the sensor.
View 1 RepliesNot long after I got the Prius, there's a rattle in the console mounted into the head liner. If I press on it, the rattle shifts. Sounds like the wire that feeds power to the lights is probably smacking against the roof of the car.
View 3 RepliesGotta 04 Lariet supercrew F150, leather buckets. How do I get head rests out of seat? I raise em up, squeeze button. Won't come out.
View 3 RepliesHave a 2006 F150, head gasket leaking bad. It is the drivers side head. How many hours this job is? and does the engine have to come out or the cab have to come off? Has a 5.4L Engine.
View 3 RepliesSame brush is in the cylinder. I lost a cleaning brush in the cylinder head and cant get it out. Im sick to my stomach. I had a small magenta but it wasn't strong enough to get it and any stronger wont fir thru the cylinder taper. Any suggestions besides taking it to a mechanic and pulling the head. Hers is a pic ......
View 12 RepliesCompressor won't engage and cool. Mechanic checked system and said ac control head is bad and it cost like 800.00. But when I go and search the part they are like 150-200... Did I miss understand what part is called. He said he checked the compressor with a scanner and the compressor will not communicate with the head... said he thinks compressor shorted out the head. He also jumped the compressor but it still would not work.. Any clue what part I should look for?
View 5 Replies2004 New Body F150 5.4L
Removed all cops, plugs, intake manifold and driver side head to repair bad valve. Removed Left side cat pipes as well. Had to disconnect most of upper engine harness and had to remove cpm and battery.
Repaired all mechanical issues and reconnected all electrical connectors and now when I turn the key to start the red security light on dash is still blinking steadily and I get no crank no start situation and it blows #34 PCM fuse which is injector/fuel fuse as soon as hit start.
Here are some things I have done trying to trouble shoot.
Battery shows 13.65 V
Unplugged FPDM back on rear frame rail and disconnected far left harness (looking from front) from PCM (should be engine harness), both the smaller plug that plugs into another harness and the main plug to the PCM.
Now when I turn on the key the security light goes out, the dash display says engine fail safe mode and the motor will turn over when I turn the key. This is still with the #34 fuse blown.
If I plug the engine harness back into the PCM, same no click no start.
If I leave engine harness unplugged from PCM and plug FPDM back in and turn key now it goes back to no crank no start and the security light blinks rapidly.
Only way I can get anything to turn over is far left harness disconnected, both plugs and the fdpm disconnected. Display says Engine Fail Safe Mode, and the security light goes out when I turn the key to start. I'm at a standstill as to what to do. The truck started fine prior to me taking it down for service.
2005 f150 xlt supercrew. Battery dead overnight. New battery installed, and it was drained after a few days use, then an overnight sit. I hooked up my meter as required to check for an amp draw. 5.87a draw. Disconnected alternator, no change. Started pulling fuses. Fuse #107 Power Door Lock(BSM) pulled drops down to 1.04a. Radio power fuse pulled also, drops to .033a. I have had a problem with the 6 disc changer trying to load, read, eject etc so I will be changing out the head unit. I am stumped as to what to try for the 107 fuse though.
View 14 RepliesLooking for the wiring diagram for the steering wheel controls for the head unit, mainly which wire is volume. I bought a new head unit for my 04 f150 truck and cant find the wiring diagram online to figure it out. I know there are 3 separate connections.
1 main one for power, gnd, ant, speakers, etc..
1 for the subwoofer if your truck came with it which mine did.
1 for the steering wheel controls if your truck came with it which mine did.
I want to know what the different color wires are connected to on the steering wheel control connection. i have had no luck searching online for about an hour. I know I could buy an adapter but really only want the volume to work and figured if I could just tap into that one wire and connect it to my new head unit.
I have a 1999 Ford E150 4.2l. My cylinder head temp sensor was dangling but still connected to the sensor... the connector was loosed from the filament but was still connected by exposed metal pins.
I figured I would replace it like i did to my ECT by the Water Pump. So I pulled the connector out and it started to leak...a little. and when I put the socket on it I instantly broke the sensor flush with the Cylinder Head.
I researched on here and found many people believe the CHT gives info to the Dashboard Gauge and the ECT is used by the ECU. I thought that was correct because I had ECT readings from my scantool...and my Dash Gauge never worked. When I found the dangling CHT I figured it was never working.
So I JB welded CHT hole. figuring i would fix it properly later. I replaced the ECT and expected everything to go back to normal.. No gauge reading on dash and a scan reading with no codes.
I want to replace the CHT sensor properly. Do I HAVE to remove the manifolds. Or do you think its safe to drain the coolant and drill it out. Its easy access. Im worried about all the tiny pieces getting into narrow passage ways.
I am almost 100% going to drill out. Manifold sounds like hell and its getting cold. What sensor controls what? Can I drill it out safely?
I have noticed a lot of things on the web on modules that promise increased MPG and power by adding a resistor on the IAT sensor. As much as I like the idea of increased MPG and power for cheap, if it doesn't work, I don't want to waste my time. So, what is the consensus on this type of modification? Will this mod be effective or only be a waste of time?
View 3 RepliesIt only does it sometimes. When I put truck in reverse the back up sensor sound just goes BEEP none stop even if there's behind my truck. Sensors on the bumper looked clean. Why?
View 1 RepliesI bought the truck in 2005 but now that my kids are driving it I need to add a rear camera or sensors.
View 3 RepliesI have the backup sensor system, and occasionally turn it off with the dash switch when backing up a boat trailer. Never had to manually turn it back ON, because it is supposed to default to the ON position during startup.
Twice this week, after starting the vehicle, the OFF light stayed on the next day, and the system did not default to the ON position. (nearly backed the truck through the garage wall cause the damned thing didnt beep when it was supposed to!)
Works fine today, so problem seems intermittent...
I upgraded my 2007 f150 xl from 17" hankook tires to 18" michelins....problem is the low tire pressure light has come on and wont go off....Ive checked the tire pressure and all are equal... how to turn this light off, or what may be the problem?
View 14 RepliesProblem: Initially thought replacing the rear wheel speed sensor on top of the differential would make the light go away on a 2007 F-150 XLT. What I've done already.
-Replaced the sensor
-Used the IDS ford computer to clear the code
-Test drove it for 30 minutes and the light is still on
-Reset any codes by disconnecting the battery
-I have gone as far as swapping a different ABS module thinking it was the problem, after it was re-programmed the module checked out and it wasn't at fault.
It must be a wire, all the fuses for the ABS system are fine.
Issue or traced all the wires and found a common problem such as a pinched wire or melted wire between the module and the sensor? From what I have been researching this code B1230 .
-bad sensor
-sensor grounding out somewhere
Attempted a multi-meter test today and didn't get very far.
To make a long story short. I had a "low input temp sensor" fault on the transmission. I replaced the three solenoids and temp sensor in the bottom of the transmission and added new fluid. I'm still getting the "trans error" code. Everything is working/shifting like it should, just tired of the beeping and code on the dash.
View 3 RepliesI just acquired a wonderful 2005 F-150 XLT 4.6 liter truck. I need to get it passable for smog check here in AZ and the failed test revealed a P0453 error code (EVAP) which translates to a possible pressure sensor malfunction.
My question is finding the sensor and if I am looking at dropping the fuel tank to service/replace the sensor. Also, could a vacuum line be the cause?
Just bought a 2007 supercab with the 5.4 in nice shape, but have an intermittent brake light on the dash. (No ABS, just the brake light.) Our mech. diagnosed a bad Brake Fluid Level switch. I can get a new sensor. I'd like to try and replace this myself and save a lot of money if it's not too difficult.
I'm looking for some clear step-by-step directions on doing this, and have a couple of questions:
Do I need to disconnect the battery first?
Do I need to empty the brake fluid reservoir? (Looks like the sensor is in the bottom of the reservoir, if I take it out without draining res, will I have a mess?)
When looking up the sensor online, I also saw the plug/connector for sale, should I replace that as well?
I have a 06 F150 and I am getting the P2207 code on it. Sounds like a O2 sensor has gone bad. From reading a little about it online, it sounds like there are (3) different ones on the truck. Is there any way of knowing which one has gone bad or do you just have to replace all of them? How hard of a job is it, do you need a special tool to remove the old sensor?
View 1 Replies2004 f-150. When I put the light switch in "auto" position and it gets dark, only the parking lights come on. The headlights do not come on. The headlights work when I put the switch in the "on" position, however. This makes no sense to me.
View 1 Replies